Model 1 clutch not engaging with l2m2

[ryandoesntstress]

I've been working my way through Aganytes l2m2 ffb board and making some good progress and learning lots along the way. At the moment everything seems to be fine but the clutch will not engage. Motor spins in the correct direction. I can even hear it working in game. If the clutch would transfer feedback to the wheel that would be great.

The clutch does activate if we feed it 24v. No problem there.
By adjusting trim pot (rv4) we can feed a steady 1-5v with spikes up to 10v during feedback. But this doesnt seem like enough to engage it.

I've ran out of things to try and adjust. Any suggestions?

[SailorSat]

Try a 25v 100nf capacitor connected to the clutch-output of the l2m2.

[ryandoesntstress]

That sounds like good advice. A capacitor was the way I was leaning. Sorry to ask you for advice then almost throw it back in your face but I saw a post from Retrorepair at http://www.ukvac.com/forum/sega-sit-down-racing-cab_topic332015_page2.html saying to use a 10uf 25v.

Can you tell me what the difference between the two would be? Does it even make a difference?

[SailorSat]

Don't think you'd notice a difference. The 100uf one would feel a little more "soft".

[ryandoesntstress]

Thanks. I'll put one in and see how it goes. Good work with the m2emu network stuff as well. I've been following that and it will be very useful for what I am doing.

[ryandoesntstress]

Solved! Thanks for that.

For anyone thinking bout the l2m2 go for it. It's not that hard.

Now I just need to get the settings right for the emulator.ini

[BadMouth]

ryandoesntstress, can you provide details about how you had the pcbs made?
I've always wanted to build one, but something about the process of ordering the pcb just doesn't click with me.
Can you upload the exact files you submitted and what options you chose for the pcb?
How much did it cost?

I just built a new workbench specifically for a soldering/electronics work.
This would be a nice project to break it in. 

[oilchanges]

Hey BadMouth, Ryan and I have been working on this project together and I'd be happy to answer what questions I can. Sorry for the bad grammar up front

We had the PCB's made online from futurlec.com they don't have the best reputation and they took forever to come but they work and were pretty happy with the results ill upload a pic also. the cost us $33 all up. $15 of it was setup and $4 was shipping. I could have ordered extra boards for $7 but I only need two.

As for ordering I just made sure that they accepted .lyt files (Proteus File). Put in the board size and selected single sided! I didn't choose any extras (silk screening or solder mask). and that was it.

For the components there were a few I had to source online as they were not available over the counter. If I were to do it again I would definitely get them all online. One tip when writing down the components you need from the gamoover tutorial don't translate it to English because Google translate drops the k's and you will end up with the wrong bits and a headache.

We have learned most things on the job but if you have some basic soldering/understanding of electronic you will be fine it's fairly straight forward.

if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask mate

[BadMouth]

Thanks.  When I had checked into getting them made before, I got quotes around $125 each!
I probably won't have time to mess with it until next week, but I will be ordering.
I'd also like to try Aganyte's happ interface board.

I'm no electrical engineer, but I have a nice soldering setup and know how to use it.
In fact, I just built a new workbench suited for this type of project.   
  (will add a pic when I get a chance.)

[Malenko]

@BadMouth  order enough to do two and then sell me one.

[BadMouth]

@BadMouth  order enough to do two and then sell me one.

I plan to build extra, but didn't want to mention it until after they're done in case I don't get around to it anytime soon.
Not taking pre-orders, but there will be enough to go around.  It could be next month, could be next year though.
(or, I might do a crappy job and they won't work)

[Andy_Bogard]

l2m2 not that hard 
well I managed to build it + the cards interfacing the 4 shift to 4 buttons (as the 4th is a combination of two, see iro's post on gamoover)
made the 4 cards : 2 l2m2 and 2 shift cards , collect all the components, the 2 driving force...But I gave up..
inifiles configured for each game individually, finding 2 enough powerfull pc to play model3 games, adjusting everything on and on, on pc, connecting the pcs... That made me sick.
I was also considering placing 2 xbox 360 linked together, but there is no big deal as xbla games can't be linked offline and only few games use linkmode.
having a fully working daytona twin cab, that's enough for me (and for most people as that is always the first game they ask for)
I am considering selling the l2m2 stuff so if someone is interested, let me know.

[ryandoesntstress]

l2m2 not that hard 
well I managed to build it + the cards interfacing the 4 shift to 4 buttons (as the 4th is a combination of two, see iro's post on gamoover)
made the 4 cards : 2 l2m2 and 2 shift cards , collect all the components, the 2 driving force...But I gave up..
inifiles configured for each game individually, finding 2 enough powerfull pc to play model3 games, adjusting everything on and on, on pc, connecting the pcs... That made me sick.
I was also considering placing 2 xbox 360 linked together, but there is no big deal as xbla games can't be linked offline and only few games use linkmode.
having a fully working daytona twin cab, that's enough for me (and for most people as that is always the first game they ask for)
I am considering selling the l2m2 stuff so if someone is interested, let me know.

Oops. Maybe I spoke too soon? I meant more the building the boards and having them work (Or at least they seem to with my setup). I'm getting some interesting results from testing and messing around with the ffb stuff actually...

	Windows FFB Test	Daytona	Need for Speed III (PC)
WingMan Formula Force	Not available since I used some funky drivers to get working on Windows 7	A little weak but very accurate	Amazing. You can feel small changes in road surface and when the back slides out, can even feel engine revving, nice centering in tight turns
Driving Force EX	Fantastic	Strong centering at hard left/right. No other feedback	Strong centering at hard left/right. No other feedback
l2m2	Fantastic	Strong centering at hard left/right. No other feedback	Strong centering at hard left/right. No other feedback

The above info is for those wheels straight plugged in and no settings changed. If I could get ffb like the Formula Force just a bit stronger I would be 100% happy with that. I was amazed how well it worked with no effort to set up. I even went to the local arcade and played a round of the real Daytona to know exactly what I'm aiming for and to make sure my memories weren't way better than real life.
So I'm thinking the l2m2 is working right as it's doing everything the stock dfex is. I haven't tried much to get it working better than that yet. Hopefully this weekend I can make some progress.


Do you have any of those .inis lying around that you could put up?