Author Topic: BritInVA's Project Arcade II attempt :) (Read 27926 times)

britinva · « **Reply #40 on:** February 07, 2011, 06:43:05 pm »

Hmmmm - more I don't know.

So if I'm planning on mainly early clasics like asteroids, centerpede, defender, frogger, pacman etc I should use 4-way sticks instead of 8-ways? Will 8-ways still work but need to be carefull about diagonals?

What games do you 'need' 8-way vs 4-way

emphatic · « **Reply #41 on:** February 07, 2011, 06:46:00 pm »

If you want 4-way stick, why not just go with the Utrastik 360 as it will emulate the correct type of control you want on the fly? Just my 2 cents.

britinva · « **Reply #42 on:** February 07, 2011, 07:13:49 pm »

Those Utrastik 360 are a bit pricy plus would mean having to open control panel to switch between 4 to 8 player.

If I understand Knievel's cp, the top middle stick is 4-way and the other 2 are 8-way. The 4 ways is wired in parallel with the Player 1 sick & buttons 1 & 2 right?

Donkbaca · « **Reply #43 on:** February 07, 2011, 07:17:21 pm »

U360 isn't that pricey when you consider that it has a built in encoder with it, so you wouldn't need an ipac, or key wiz or anything like that

britinva · « **Reply #44 on:** February 07, 2011, 07:22:33 pm »

But if I kept original design I'd ned 2 U360's right?

And everytime I wanted to swich between 4 & 8 I'd have to open up panel?

Or am I missing something?

emphatic · « **Reply #45 on:** February 07, 2011, 07:40:05 pm »

Quote from: britinva on February 07, 2011, 07:22:33 pm

Or am I missing something?

You are.

Quote from: Ultimarc

The UltraStik Is based around a true analog "engine" using advanced sensing technology which uses no contacts nor switches.
It can be used in many modes, ranging from simply replacing a micro-switch stick to a full analog flight stick with user-defined analog/digital mapping.

No need for any other stick as the UltraStik can operate in ANY mode, 4-way, 8-way, 2-way, 45 degree mode or any special mode you wish to define.
Maps downloaded instantly to joystick via USB and this can be done in the background when starting a game.

No microswitches, so no wear-tear. If you use MALA frontend it will (IIRC) automatically change the stick layout to the game you launch, so if you want to play Pac-Man, the stick will be a 4-way, launch Galaga and you'll get a 2-way etc.

Edit: And of course, built in decoder for 8 buttons per unit.

drventure · « **Reply #46 on:** February 07, 2011, 07:44:55 pm »

Sorry, just getting back to this.

As for a way to show what controls are used in what games, that's what a "CPViewer" type app is for.

There are several floating around. CPWizard is probably the better of them, but you can find links on the WIKI.

http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Utilities#Control_Panel_Software

britinva · « **Reply #47 on:** February 07, 2011, 08:08:00 pm »

emphatic

Hmmmm - got me thinking now $:-\$

Option 1: I used the UltraStik I could keep to my original design, get 2 of them and could control 16 of the buttons - but still would need an encoder for the additional buttons (think need at least 3 more - for Exit & Pinball). Is it just MaLa that auto changes or does other FE's like Atomic FE have this capability?

Option 2: I could stay with what I listed previously but add an additional stick (e.g. HAPP Super Arcade configured as 4-way) wired in parallel with player 1.

Appreciate ALL opinions on best options that keeps things simple.

drventure

Thanks was wondering best way to decide what buttons needed for each game - I'll take a look at that tomorrow.

drventure · « **Reply #48 on:** February 07, 2011, 10:17:22 pm »

Just FYI

I've found that having the buttons run through an IPAC keyboard encoder is awefully nice because all the buttons are "just keypresses"

If you hook them up to the ultrasticks, they're actually USB HID "buttons" and in some cases can require more fiddling to get mapped properly into various games.

Not saying it can't be done, but it does seem like it's a bit more trouble that way.

britinva · « **Reply #49 on:** February 07, 2011, 10:56:09 pm »

How about option 3 - use Mag-Stik Plus which "switches from 4 to 8 way mode from the top of the panel"

If I go this route should I go with 2 Mag-Stik Plus or 1 Mag-Stik Plus and 1 Mag-Stik? Are there 2 player 4 way games?

And get a I-PAC 2 Interface (32 inputs).

More expensive than the Groovy way but seems more flexible.

drventure · « **Reply #50 on:** February 07, 2011, 11:22:46 pm »

I've got 2 ultra sticks I use for players 1 and 2

and 2 mag stick pluses for players 3-4

Honestly, I much prefer the Ultrasticks. But I'm no arcade purist. I will say the mag sticks feel more like what I remember arcade sticks feeling like. and the switchability is nice, but without an indicator of some sort, it's a bit hit and miss.

I also use an IPAC-4 for the button support and couldn't be happier with it. Easy hook up. easy programming, USB, lots of inputs. Doesn't get simpler.

emphatic · « **Reply #51 on:** February 08, 2011, 03:30:16 am »

To avoid getting an extra controller for just three buttons, I would wire the pinball buttons up to the same function as an existing button instead.

Example:
Wire Player 1 fire button #1 and left pinball button to the same encoder button. Do the same for the right pinball button and Player 2 fire button #1. It's not like the fire buttons are busy doing other stuff when you play pinball.

This leaves you with one button to shift/skip.

britinva · « **Reply #52 on:** February 08, 2011, 12:34:11 pm »

Decided to go the more expensive route and ordered 2x Ultrastik 360s and a I-PAC 2 Interface. Was tempted to use the 'shift' feature but at this stage not sure if will want other buttons so thought what the heck - its only money. Got a few extras like Joystick Mounting Kits, UltraStik Button / Encoder Harness and a wiring kit. Total with shipping $232

Decided not to get buttons from then as was at 60% more expensive. Trying to order those from groovygamegear.com but there store won';t let me order (cart contents disappears when try to checkout). [EDIT] Ordered via a different PC and buttons + misc items ordered $49.53 inc shipping.

Also ordered slot cutter off Amazon for $19.07

Total so far $300.60

Looks like weather reasonable this weekend so should start the cabinet.

Thanks to all those that have answered Q's.

Still got to work out the FE.

britinva · « **Reply #53 on:** February 08, 2011, 10:25:01 pm »

So, being a complete Noob and a complete

I have still not managed to get MAME/MaLa or Atomic FE working

However, was looking at GameEX and initial was hitting same roadblock

but then found a guide that not only starts from a compete new OS install & tweaks, step by step walks you thru it and includes most of the files you need

Here it is if anyone interested http://www.gameex.info/forums/index.php?showtopic=8226

So now starting from scratch - keep your fingers crossed for me.

drventure · « **Reply #54 on:** February 08, 2011, 11:26:04 pm »

Well, hopefully gameex will get you there.

If you still have probs with Mala, let me know. I can see what I can do to help.

VanillaGorilla · « **Reply #55 on:** February 08, 2011, 11:38:55 pm »

Quote from: Nephasth on February 07, 2011, 05:45:47 pm

Looks like breakfast

haw haw har haw haw!!

britinva · « **Reply #56 on:** February 10, 2011, 09:48:08 pm »

Made great progess.

Looks like my biggest issue was my ROM set was different version to MAME version. I didn't know had to be same version

Well managed to rebuild them using ClrMamePro and this guide http://www.cphsolutions.f2s.com/guides/cmprotutorial.htm

I've now reinstalled OS, installed MAMEUIFX etc. using guide I posted previously and was able to play a game (albeit badly as was using keyboard). I've installed GameEx too but still got to finish setup.

Major progress.

Received my slot cutter today and other contral panel parts shipped.

Going to be 45deg Sat and 55deg Sun so cabinet build should commence.

dfmaverick · « **Reply #57 on:** February 10, 2011, 10:01:18 pm »

Good to hear clrmamepro did the trick.

mgb · « **Reply #58 on:** February 11, 2011, 10:05:02 am »

Sounds like things are going well. Good to hear.
Thanks for the link to that guide for clrmame. I will be using that

britinva · « **Reply #59 on:** February 11, 2011, 01:49:55 pm »

Top Marks to Ultimarc - ordered contollers/joysticks on Tues at noon and arrived from UK to VA in 72hrs!

Now need my buttons and I can sling together a prototype control panel for testing

Cheers,
Mark

britinva · « **Reply #60 on:** February 12, 2011, 05:32:40 pm »

Busy day today - trip to home depot for materials and got all the cabinet pieces cut...... not fun when only 42deg

Tomorrow going to get slots cut for the T-molding and start assembly. Also just realised I'm going to have to build it in the Rec Rm - was hoping that could have used storage area but this thing is not going thru any door.

Other news my buttons arrived from Groovy Game Gear.

britinva · « **Reply #61 on:** February 13, 2011, 05:54:52 pm »

More progress today - got the slots cut for the T-molding and assemby underway.

Need to test fit TV (going to wait 24hrs for glue to dry) and need to decide how I'm going to to the speaker panel. One modification the the Project Arcade II plans is I'm going to have the front panel as a door instead of fixed.

Some progreass pics.

britinva · « **Reply #62 on:** February 13, 2011, 06:51:04 pm »

For speaker panel ...... wondering if to try and route in the MDF, create on large with grill cloth or but some circular or rectangular grills.

Suggestions?

britinva · « **Reply #63 on:** February 13, 2011, 09:37:29 pm »

Thinking might go with these

http://www.simplyspeakers.com/speaker-grill-metal-mesh-sg-m4.html

Or

http://www.simplyspeakers.com/speaker-waffle-grill-swg-10.html

Need to decide if to paint them Royal Blue (main cabinet colour) or Yellow (T-Moulding).

Need to also start thinking about the Control Panel & Marque art.

Going to spend sometime tomorrow on the control panel layout.

britinva · « **Reply #64 on:** February 14, 2011, 11:45:02 am »

TV fits

OK, so here is plan for the control panel. Thinking forward I may want other control panels (e.g. for driving games) so I'm toying with Idea of some of the buttons (Play 1, Coin 1, Play 2, Coin 2, On/Off etc. being on the Bezel and run off a dedicated controller. So just leaving the sticks/buttons on the control panel.

Now currently no room below TV for these so:
Option 1: have bezel buttons above TV
Option 2: have Bezel buttons below TV (create platform to raise TV)

Anyone know who has done this and what looks better?

drventure · « **Reply #65 on:** February 14, 2011, 06:49:54 pm »

People have often built an "admin" panel right below the monitor with coin/start etc buttons on it.

It'd be better below than above.

mgb · « **Reply #66 on:** February 14, 2011, 07:02:30 pm »

They'd typically be under the monitor. It looks like you have room below the shelf that the Tv is on.

britinva · « **Reply #67 on:** February 14, 2011, 09:09:39 pm »

Quote from: mgb on February 14, 2011, 07:02:30 pm

They'd typically be under the monitor. It looks like you have room below the shelf that the Tv is on.

I think that area is talen up by the Control pane box - think your both right - under TV is best..... just got to work it out. Wish I had not glued everything now.

britinva · « **Reply #68 on:** February 15, 2011, 07:26:27 pm »

OK, so made modifications to have some cross-console buttons under the screen.

Ordered a 1-1/8-Inch Forstner Bit today too - hopefully that will arrive before weekend.

drventure · « **Reply #69 on:** February 15, 2011, 07:59:46 pm »

Why not build a short little riser box right below the TV opening, it'll cover a small bit of the CP but it looks like there's space.

britinva · « **Reply #70 on:** February 15, 2011, 08:19:23 pm »

Thats basically what I did -raised the monitor platform to allow for buttons.

Before

After

dawolv · « **Reply #71 on:** February 15, 2011, 09:31:02 pm »

Quote from: britinva on February 13, 2011, 09:37:29 pm

Thinking might go with these

http://www.simplyspeakers.com/speaker-grill-metal-mesh-sg-m4.html

Or

http://www.simplyspeakers.com/speaker-waffle-grill-swg-10.html

Need to decide if to paint them Royal Blue (main cabinet colour) or Yellow (T-Moulding).

Need to also start thinking about the Control Panel & Marque art.

Going to spend sometime tomorrow on the control panel layout.

I used the first one you listed here or something very similiar to it. I painted mine Chrome.

Man you dont let the grass grow under your feet! Great Progress!

britinva · « **Reply #72 on:** February 15, 2011, 09:56:08 pm »

My only concern with #1 was if spraying would clog the grill - so I ordered a pair of these

As for mortaring along.....need to get done fast as wife on at me to get on with a tiered ceiling in master bath

dawolv · « **Reply #73 on:** February 15, 2011, 09:58:45 pm »

Quote from: britinva on February 15, 2011, 09:56:08 pm

As for mortaring along.....need to get done fast as wife on at me to get on with a tiered ceiling in master bath

Ahahahahahaha.....hahahahahaha....hahaha.....wait, I hear my wife calling

drventure · « **Reply #74 on:** February 15, 2011, 10:33:47 pm »

Just don't go crazy with the spray and it's highly unlikely you'll clog up any speaker grill. I sprayed the grills on some altec lansing speakers with quite small openings. No probs at all.

jikkjack · « **Reply #75 on:** February 16, 2011, 03:26:12 pm »

Excellent work! Good to see you are finally getting around to a Mame machine. I am about to build my 3rd but that project is top secret right now.

britinva · « **Reply #76 on:** February 16, 2011, 03:34:20 pm »

Quote from: jikkjack on February 16, 2011, 03:26:12 pm

Excellent work! Good to see you are finally getting around to a Mame machine. I am about to build my 3rd but that project is top secret right now.

Did you finish your Golden Tee - don't recollect seeing finished pics.

And did you end up selling your 1st?

jikkjack · « **Reply #77 on:** February 17, 2011, 08:30:05 am »

Yes sir. Here are some final shots:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=104064.msg1144153#msg1144153

Actually - I just noticed that these pics don't have the Coin Door i bought off ebay and installed so I will snap a pic and upload today when I get home. Makes it much easier to get to the dip switch that changes courses. I am also going to be rebuilding the Marquee this weekend. I got a new toy (dovetail jig) and I need some practice before beginning my next home renovation project.

Still have the first machine...it is currently living in the storage room...don't know what I am going to do with it...can't remember if I sent you a rom care package

but just let me know if I didn't.

britinva · « **Reply #78 on:** February 18, 2011, 02:47:12 pm »

Actually - now I remember I did see that...... you just don't stop do ya.

Still haven't found excuse to visit our Atlanta office again - one day

Well my T-Moulding and Forstner Bit arrived yesterday. Man those Forstner Bit's are good glad I ordered one and didn't settle for using a spade bit!

3 day weekend so hoping to get loads done - need to decide if to fire up my Wagner Airless sprayer or just roll & brush. I know spraying will give better finish but the clean-ups a PITA.

So far cost is $488.28

britinva · « **Reply #79 on:** February 19, 2011, 05:56:24 pm »

Didn't get as much done today as I would have liked - ended up spending 5hrs in ER because my daughter was dehydrated from a stomach bug.

Got one coat of primer done a drilled button holes in control panel.

Got a question on the UltraStik 360's..... can't find install info on their website. What diameter hole for the stick? And if mounting from under whow much should it be recessed?

Hopefully more progress tomorrow.


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