Author Topic: Donkey Kong Jr (Read 17242 times)

mr_doles · « **Reply #40 on:** April 03, 2010, 07:52:15 pm »

Well it is not as dark as I would have liked but this picture makes it look really light. It is close but not quite there. I am happy with it so that is all that matters. Got the second coat of black on and painted the base and the back door as well. Forgot the camera again but did get 2 quick pictures. Once this dries I will give it a once (or twice) over with 0000 steel wool.

After the first coat.

After the last coat. The base looks so much better with a fresh coat of black on it.

mr_doles · « **Reply #41 on:** April 08, 2010, 07:06:14 pm »

Looky looky what came in the mail today

Also got my cap kit and upper monitor support bar but they don't need a picture. Man I want to get the cab back from my father-in-laws house.

My next question is locks for the coin door and back door. From what I am reading they are both a 5/8" long locks with a #K6510 key. Is that correct? I have seen some people get them from Ace and others from takigen but it does not look like you can get them on www.takigen.com. Where is the best place to get 2 of these? I have the lock in the coin door but it spins 360 degrees, it is missing a part I guess.

mr_doles · « **Reply #42 on:** April 15, 2010, 09:00:05 pm »

Is this what I need to get. Lock
Hate to spend $36 bucks for a lock.

Any other places that may have them cheaper?

opt2not · « **Reply #43 on:** April 16, 2010, 02:39:50 am »

Quote from: mr_doles on April 15, 2010, 09:00:05 pm

Is this what I need to get. Lock
Hate to spend $36 bucks for a lock. Any other places that may have them cheaper?

Happs? Couldn't you just get these?
http://www.happcontrols.com/security/302224xxx.htm

mr_doles · « **Reply #44 on:** April 16, 2010, 06:43:21 am »

Yes I can, and if I can't find a Takigen C-88-1-K6510, which is what "should" be in there, for less than $36 then I will be getting a regular 5/8" lock.

isucamper · « **Reply #45 on:** April 16, 2010, 08:27:10 am »

Back door should work with the K6510, but the coin door is going to be unique. If you don't already have a key for it, you're going to have to replace the whole lock.

Verified this on my popeye. K6510 worked on the back but not on the coin door. RASmachinetool.com is the cheapest I could find online for a new key, but I'd mail around to collectors and see if you could bum a spare one for cheaper. That's what I did.

mr_doles · « **Reply #46 on:** April 16, 2010, 08:43:06 am »

I need both a key and a lock. The back door just has a hole there, that one can be a generic lock, and the coin door lock is pretty messed up, and it is not a K6510.

If it is going to cost that much I think I'll just go generic. I can do that on the coin door...right?

SirPeale · « **Reply #47 on:** April 16, 2010, 01:31:59 pm »

I sure as heck wouldn't spend $36 plus shipping on a lock, even if it makes it "original." I've got some 5/8" locks if you're interested.

mr_doles · « **Reply #48 on:** April 16, 2010, 05:37:21 pm »

Quote from: SirPeale on April 16, 2010, 01:31:59 pm

I sure as heck wouldn't spend $36 plus shipping on a lock, even if it makes it "original." I've got some 5/8" locks if you're interested.

That would be great, PM sent.

Level42 · « **Reply #49 on:** April 18, 2010, 05:29:13 am »

Guess I'm too late but this would have been a great alternative for the sides and front:

http://www.thisoldgame.com/products/donkey-kong-jr-orange-vinyl-kit

mr_doles · « **Reply #50 on:** April 18, 2010, 08:27:06 am »

Quote from: Level42 on April 18, 2010, 05:29:13 am

Guess I'm too late but this would have been a great alternative for the sides and front:
http://www.thisoldgame.com/products/donkey-kong-jr-orange-vinyl-kit

Son of a

Oh well I am happy with how it looks. Going to pick it up from the father-in-laws house today and bring it home.

mr_doles · « **Reply #51 on:** April 18, 2010, 06:05:18 pm »

It is back home again. Next weekend I will be working on the inside...if I have my PCB by then.

Orange came out good. There are some touchups that need to be done on the front where I taped up though.

Looking good. Still not ready to take off the plastic yet.

Level42 · « **Reply #52 on:** April 19, 2010, 03:54:39 pm »

It looks tight !

Spyridon · « **Reply #53 on:** April 19, 2010, 04:59:57 pm »

Quote from: mr_doles on April 18, 2010, 08:27:06 am

Son of a
Oh well I am happy with how it looks. Going to pick it up from the father-in-laws house today and bring it home.

Don't fret. the vinyl wouldn't have saved you any work. Your cab would still have needed the bondo and sanding work as well as the painting. In fact, you would have had to take it to it's current state and then put on the vinyl (so technically, it's not too late if you want to use it). The vinyl is thin and will show every bump and dent on the cab as well as be impacted by the underneath color.

mr_doles · « **Reply #54 on:** April 19, 2010, 07:27:07 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on April 19, 2010, 03:54:39 pm

It looks tight !

Thanks for that, it is has been tough but fun!

Quote from: Spyridon on April 19, 2010, 04:59:57 pm

Don't fret. the vinyl wouldn't have saved you any work. Your cab would still have needed the bondo and sanding work as well as the painting. In fact, you would have had to take it to it's current state and then put on the vinyl (so technically, it's not too late if you want to use it). The vinyl is thin and will show every bump and dent on the cab as well as be impacted by the underneath color.

Well I already put about $70 worth for paint, primer, paint stripper, gloves, brushes, etc... I think that it will stay this way. I have book marked that page for future endeavors. <gets yelled at by wife for just thinking of getting another one>

mr_doles · « **Reply #55 on:** April 20, 2010, 07:55:55 pm »

I hate to do this but I got to ask 2 dumb questions. First is there a bottom bezel bracket. Looking at the picture in the DK JR manual it looks like there is one. See attached. I can't find one anywhere if there is one.
***EDIT*** looks like there is one but it is not repo'd so I need to find an original.

Second is the harness. I am now reading that the board does not use an edge connector. I have a harness for Super Mario Brothers which is not going to work. So what do I need to get my board working. I know that is a little vague of a question. I have the monitor and the Nintendo Monitor Cable, I will be getting the inter-board power cable with the board and I believe I have the Sound Cable, need to pull the box o' parts out. I am missing power from the battery and cables to the CP...I think.

monnom · « **Reply #56 on:** April 22, 2010, 05:43:43 pm »

Hey,

I want to start to build my own arcade Donkey kong,... but do you know where I can order the stickers an other parts?

Thanx alot

javeryh · « **Reply #57 on:** April 23, 2010, 10:09:34 am »

Quote from: monnom on April 22, 2010, 05:43:43 pm

Hey,

I want to start to build my own arcade Donkey kong,... but do you know where I can order the stickers an other parts?

Thanx alot

Mike's Arcade.

mr_doles · « **Reply #58 on:** April 23, 2010, 07:10:10 pm »

Quote from: monnom on April 22, 2010, 05:43:43 pm

Hey,
I want to start to build my own arcade Donkey kong,... but do you know where I can order the stickers an other parts?

I actually got the stickers, marquee, and bezel from arcade shop. Other stuff I got from Mike's.

mr_doles · « **Reply #59 on:** April 26, 2010, 05:40:41 pm »

Monitor has been capped and cleaned up. Without the harness I can't test the monitor to make sure it works after the cap kit. I ended up buying a repo harness from KLOV, it is a little pricey but everyone who has bought one swears by it.

Level42 · « **Reply #60 on:** April 27, 2010, 11:05:30 am »

Did you see that Audiomidiman (a KLOV forum member) will be having some TRUE flat Nintendo T-molding made ?

http://www.chompingquarters.com/2010/04/true-flat-nintendo-t-molding-reproduction-pre-order-now

More info here:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=124077

and

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=129880

mr_doles · « **Reply #61 on:** April 27, 2010, 09:31:30 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on April 27, 2010, 11:05:30 am

Did you see that Audiomidiman (a KLOV forum member) will be having some TRUE flat Nintendo T-molding made ?

I did and I am torn on it. I have already put a ton of money into this cab and $30 compaired half that at mikesarcade, is a tough call. The CP I got at Mikes has the T-molding on it and it looks good.

Next question, I am putting the monitor in and need to know the size bolts/washer or screws or what ever that hold the monitor to the Monitor lower mount and to the upper support bar. I know the 1/4-20 bolts are what hold the mounts in but what is needed for the monitor.

mr_doles · « **Reply #62 on:** May 01, 2010, 08:20:45 am »

Well she is playable now. I think the starter needs to be replaced because the marquee light takes forever to start and flickers. There is still a lot of work to do but I spent more then I would have liked so it will be on hold for a month or so. Currently at $849.02. Will post break down when completed.

Still need to do:
T-Molding
Coin door
Side art
marquee light starter

mr_doles · « **Reply #63 on:** May 01, 2010, 11:35:38 am »

Well I spoke too soon. I hope this is something simple. When I select 2 players, player one works great but when player 2 comes on it is upside down and the controls don't work? I PM'd Dokert to ask if I plugged something in wrong but I figured someone here might be able to help as well.

****EDIT**** Nevermind I am retared, the dip switch on the board was set to table not upright.

opt2not · « **Reply #64 on:** May 01, 2010, 02:47:55 pm »

hehe, good find. Live and learn, am i right?

Glad you got it all working. Would love to see your breakdown of the cost as reference for my Robotron restoration.

Great job so far on the cabinet.

mr_doles · « **Reply #65 on:** May 02, 2010, 08:23:11 am »

Quote from: opt2not on May 01, 2010, 02:47:55 pm

Would love to see your breakdown of the cost as reference for my Robotron restoration.

mr_doles · « **Reply #66 on:** May 03, 2010, 11:39:07 am »

I am stripping the coin door down and picked up a can of rustoleum hammered spray paint. I am wondering if hammered is the way to go on this door. It looked smooth to being with. Suggestions.

SirPeale · « **Reply #67 on:** May 03, 2010, 04:05:35 pm »

Semi-gloss black.

javeryh · « **Reply #68 on:** May 05, 2010, 11:54:04 am »

I had mine powder-coated (along with all of the other metal pieces). It was expensive but worth it, IMO.

mr_doles · « **Reply #69 on:** May 05, 2010, 06:20:22 pm »

Quote from: javeryh on May 05, 2010, 11:54:04 am

I had mine powder-coated (along with all of the other metal pieces). It was expensive but worth it, IMO.

Too rich for me, I don't think I can add that expense to the list.

Quote from: SirPeale on May 03, 2010, 04:05:35 pm

Semi-gloss black.

The door is a little dinged up and I thought that the hammered or textured would cover that up. Will the Semi-gloss cover that up?

mr_doles · « **Reply #70 on:** May 09, 2010, 04:57:23 pm »

So I have the door stripped down and swapped the hammered for semi gloss. Put on the first coat and it looks like crap. Should I have primed first or will the second coat clean it up?

saleem · « **Reply #71 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:04:12 pm »

did you remove the old paint off the door first?

if you didnt it needs to be taken down to the metal and proper cleaned,that would be realy the proper way to do the job,from scratch.bare metal.

mr_doles · « **Reply #72 on:** May 09, 2010, 08:23:43 pm »

Quote from: saleem on May 09, 2010, 06:04:12 pm

did you remove the old paint off the door first?

I used Citistrip to remove the majority of the paint then used a wire brush on a drill and got off the rest. What is properly cleaned mean?

opt2not · « **Reply #73 on:** May 09, 2010, 11:07:35 pm »

Quote from: mr_doles on May 09, 2010, 04:57:23 pm

So I have the door stripped down and swapped the hammered for semi gloss. Put on the first coat and it looks like crap. Should I have primed first or will the second coat clean it up?

I didn't prime my coin-door first, just stripped it down with a wire wheel and painted it. What is the deal with all those specs on the door? Is that dust on the camera, or did you end up getting particles on the surface when you were spray-painting?

You gotta make sure the surface is clean before you paint...

saleem · « **Reply #74 on:** May 10, 2010, 05:48:55 am »

you should remove as much of the old paint as possible.means when you think you have stripped down the door just go over it with a bit of fine wet,wet and dry sandpaper and rub it down a bit more.that will remove residue and bits of paint you didnt get.

mr_doles · « **Reply #75 on:** May 10, 2010, 07:03:15 am »

Quote from: opt2not on May 09, 2010, 11:07:35 pm

What is the deal with all those specs on the door? Is that dust on the camera, or did you end up getting particles on the surface when you were spray-painting?

That is not dust on the camera or particles either. That is what the door looked like before I painted it, that is under the paint. I scraped the hell out of the door with a wire brush trying to get those imperfections off the door. I did wipe it down with a wet cloth to get the metal particles and dust off but I did not use sandpaper and maybe that will make a difference. I may just prime over the paint that is there and do another coat of black.

SirPeale · « **Reply #76 on:** May 10, 2010, 08:51:05 am »

Those specs are one of two things (impossible to tell from that photo): holes where rust left an indent, or bubbles from the paint. Could be crap falling from the air and landing on the wet paint too, you've got to shield your work from that.

Your technique could use some work too. You've just gone and randomly sprayed all over. You need to start at one end, spray end-to-end, raise up a bit, and repeat until you get to the top. Make sure you overspray just a bit on each end so your spray starts BEFORE it hits the piece. http://www.paintcenter.org/rj/oct03f.cfm

And do several LIGHT coats, not one large heavy one.

You can probably save what you've got there, but it'll take a little work. Get some fine sandpaper (wet/dry stuff, preferably) something around 400 grit, and start lightly going over the surface to even it out. Wipe it down, look again. If you start seeing deeper gouges in the paint, use another surface of the sandpaper, it's getting clogged.

ArcadeClassix · « **Reply #77 on:** May 14, 2010, 11:31:10 am »

In response to SirPeale's post, definitely sand as he suggests. I'd use water in addition to help prevent the clogging of the sandpaper like he mentions. I would sand the paint completely off and start over if I were you. I had to do that to one I did a couple of weeks ago but I am glad I did. Alternatively,you can sand the paint, get (ideally) a high build primer and do a couple of coats of primer on top of the paint. You can then use the sand paper, approx 400-600 grit to wet sand the surface until it is flat as glass. Then repaint.

I would use a "hammered" or textured paint of some sort though. It'll help hide any imperfections and look closer to original IMO.

Or if you don't feel like dealing with it, you can send to me, I can beat it straight with my hammer/dolly set and paint it for you. PM me if you'd like to see pics of my work. I've resurrected a couple of real turd-ish coin doors

Good luck and keep up the good work!

mr_doles · « **Reply #78 on:** May 15, 2010, 02:41:59 pm »

I am going to sand it down and do it agian. This week has been filled with stuff going on, the family is going out of town for a few days next month so I am putting everything on hold till they leave. Should be able to get some work done then.

Quote from: ArcadeClassix on May 14, 2010, 11:31:10 am

I would use a "hammered" or textured paint of some sort though. It'll help hide any imperfections and look closer to original IMO.

That was my thought too but the Semi-gloss looks more original. I'll get it right the next time round...I hope.

On a side note got the T-molding in, found it on ebay for a great price.

SirPeale · « **Reply #79 on:** May 15, 2010, 09:39:14 pm »

Nintendo coin doors were semi-gloss, not textured.


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