Lightup pushbuttons/iPac?

[M-80]

Ok, so the iPac has a 5v output, but the lightup pushbuttons at Happ need 6v. Will this be enough to light up the lamp inside? Or are there alternatives out there that take 5v?

[BobA]

The ipac is built for LEDs  not lamps.  You will kill your ipac if you plug in a lamp.   Build the driver circuit and use high output LEDs if you want a good working circuit.  See other thread for driver circuit from Oscar.

BobA

[M-80]

See other thread for driver circuit from Oscar.

BobA

Which other thread?

[OSCAR]

Which other thread?

http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=5127;start=0

[M-80]

Ah. Thanks.

[StephenH]

+5V should light the lamp, although it might not be full brightness.   Also, check to see if the amperage out is sufficent.

If not, use a relay or MOSFET circuit to turn the lamp on, with an external +6V supply.   If you need a +6V supply, try radio shack.

[paigeoliver]

Your computer power supply should be a handy source of 5 Volt power.

[M-80]

Your computer power supply should be a handy source of 5 Volt power.

Yeah, but the lamps are 6v. I'm just worried about burning out the iPac by drawing more voltage than it can handle. I'm not much of an electrician, though I did take a home & auto class in high school which I got a D for. LOL The thought is to hook up the lightup push buttons to the NumLock, Caps and Scroll screw terminals of the iPac. Not simply to have a constant light in each button. I'll save that for any constant lighting I might want in the CP (the more and more I think about it the more I like that idea, but where to put that lighting on the CP... A personal taste thing). Like replacing the lamps with lower voltage LEDs (the ones at Happ are still 6v :\ ). But I might just try the first suggestion with the driver circuit. I'll just have to study it for a while and just build the CP as I go. I mean, I can always add that feature later and just mothball the lamps in the meantime. I haven't done any real circuit board wiring before and other than soldering together wire ends for home wiring (thanks home & auto class!), my circuit board soldering skills are non-existant.

[RandyT]

I just want to reinforce what BobA said....Never hook light-bulbs directly to your IPAC (not even just to try it)!  You will damage it.

The processor can't sink anywhere near the amount of current required by a incandescent lamp, and will, at minimum, burn out that input.

LEDs use less current, but the bright ones can do the same damage without the circuit mentioned above.

I'm afraid it's your only option.
 

RandyT

[M-80]

I just want to reinforce what BobA said....Never hook light-bulbs directly to your IPAC (not even just to try it)!  You will damage it.

And I will reitterate what I've already said: I am not going to do that. Which is why I'm asking if there is a better way which was answered by BobA and OSCAR.

The processor can't sink anywhere near the amount of current required by a incandescent lamp, and will, at minimum, burn out that input.

Yes, I understand that. Thought that was clear.

LEDs use less current, but the bright ones can do the same damage without the circuit mentioned above.

I'm afraid it's your only option.

LOL Ok, let me make clear what I knew before the topic was made and what I learned

Before post: I know lamps whether incandescant or LED that exceed the voltage of such equipment as the iPac will burn out said equipment. I saw the difference at HappControls.com and Ultimarc and came here to ask if there was something with lower voltage that I could use. Surely there must be, because, again, I do not want to use what Happ offers. Unless Happ does offer solutions and I just haven't looked long enough.

After post: I know now, after reading what BobA and OSCAR posted that a driver circuit is possibly my only option. No need to repeat. Not everybody's a dumb newbie. But thanks for making it clear anyway. I just want my blinky Num/Caps/Scroll lights.

[RandyT]

Heh.

Sorry, I just got nervous when StephenH said +5v would light the lamps, just not at full brightness.  I didn't want you try it to see if it was bright enough, because you'd only get one chance at it .

Not knowing someone's skill level makes it impossible to forsee what they might try.  Just trying to save someone from a punch in the wallet

RandyT

[paigeoliver]

The +5 V on your computer probably isn't even + 5.0 to begin with, it is probably 5.1 or 5.2. You usually have a little leeway with voltages, especially with simple things like lights.

I have measured voltages on working games before and found them off by as much as 2 volts.

[M-80]

Heh.

Sorry, I just got nervous when StephenH said +5v would light the lamps, just not at full brightness.  I didn't want you try it to see if it was bright enough, because you'd only get one chance at it .

Not knowing someone's skill level makes it impossible to forsee what they might try.  Just trying to save someone from a punch in the wallet

RandyT

Ah, ok. Sorry about that. Yeah, I'm pretty aware that exceeding voltage requirements is dangerous to the walet and patience. Even though I've never burnt out equipment by doing something careless like that, I'm still careful. All I need are the testimonials of the majority of other people to convince me.

What I did before I started posting here was I did some homework on this until I hit a wall, then I started looking for a major bulletin board where I could ask some questions and share experience (and maybe get some ideas I never thought of before). If I seem a little talky or not newbie enough, it's only because I've been lurking at other boards and stuff. Nothing like diving in the deep end to learn to swim.

[M-80]

The +5 V on your computer probably isn't even + 5.0 to begin with, it is probably 5.1 or 5.2. You usually have a little leeway with voltages, especially with simple things like lights.

I have measured voltages on working games before and found them off by as much as 2 volts.

Yeah, but better to be safe than sorry and have correct voltage. I might even put together something that'll accept an AC adapter or something (once I ask if that's feasable) with a power toggle switch. Rather than go from my computer's power supply (which would require a long cord that could get caught on things if I decide to make a podium of some sort). But I'll go with the driver circuit diagram just to be on the safe side (in case the AC adapter thing isn't possible noway nohow).

[BillyJack]

Doesn't Happ have LEDs "kits" that fit for their lightup pushbuttons?  Thought I saw that somewhere on their site long ago...

(Sorry, this thread is so confusing I don't remember what the original question was.)

 

Edit: Idunno, this comes up when you click on the LED Optional link in the lighted pushbutton page.  
http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/91115700.htm
Not sure if the power reqs are too high for the ipac still...  just rambling i guess...

Edit 2: Aha!  they come in 6v form (obvious if you read the page unlike me)...  i guess the 5v would power them a little dim, huh?

BillyJack

[M-80]

Doesn't Happ have LEDs "kits" that fit for their lightup pushbuttons?  Thought I saw that somewhere on their site long ago...

(Sorry, this thread is so confusing I don't remember what the original question was.)

 

Edit: Idunno, this comes up when you click on the LED Optional link in the lighted pushbutton page.  
http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/91115700.htm
Not sure if the power reqs are too high for the ipac still...  just rambling i guess...

Edit 2: Aha!  they come in 6v form (obvious if you read the page unlike me)...  i guess the 5v would power them a little dim, huh?

BillyJack

Not only that, but according to others here the 6v LEDs would fry the iPac just as good as the 6v incandescants. And that logic tends to be believable.

Simply, this topic was about alternatives to the Happ offerings. Instead of 6v lighting (incandescants or LEDs), maybe 5v lighting (incandescants or LEDs) if they make them. And just replace the 6v lamps (incandescants or LEDs) with the 5v lamps (incandescants or LEDs) and the iPac would be saved from being fried by lamps that demand too much from the iPac. Or maybe we can get Ultimarc to make 6v iPacs? Powered instead of from the USB or PS/2 port but through a dedicated AC adapter while the rest of the terminals are USB or PS/2 bus powered?

...

Second guessing: Is Ultimarc the one that makes iPacs? Or do they simply sell them for the manufacturer? I was always under the impression that they made them.

[bionicbadger]

I power my coin door lights with +5V from my computer power supply and I'm pretty sure they are 6V lights.   They are plenty bright enough at 5V.

[ErikRuud]

The issue is not really the Voltage.

It is about amps!  

Most LEDS run on less than 3 volts. 5 Volt LEDs usually have built in resistor to drop the voltage.

You have to look at the amp rating for any lamps or leds that you want to hook to the IPac.

The micro-processor on the IPac can only handle 10ma.  If you exceed that, you can harm your IPac, and possibly your motherboard.

Most super bright LEDs require 20ma.  You need to use Oscar's Interface or Carsten's circuit

[M-80]

I power my coin door lights with +5V from my computer power supply and I'm pretty sure they are 6V lights.   They are plenty bright enough at 5V.

Yeah, but I don't plan on having my CP connected to my computer most of the time. I don't think a PS power cords are hot pluggable. I think I'll go with the driver dircuit and involve a dedicated wall power adapter, maybe one from RadioShack that's variable (4v, 6v, 12v, etc). I have one, but the plug ends are missing.

See, what I'm thinking is using the driver circuit, I'd connect that to an adapter power inlet that I'd mount on the back of the CP somewhere and attach the iPac to the modified driver circuit (modified to have a adapter inlet wire attached instead of a PS 4 pin power inlet like on hard drives) like shown on OSCAR's site, that way the CP wouldn't have to be connected to the computer's PS and the 6v lamps would get their 6v of power. I realize the computer's PS would work, but I don't want to turn off my computer in order to disconnect the USB to take my CP on the road with me. With that in mind I might as well make my CP a two player one. With the plan I've got going I'd disconnect the USB and turn off the CP's power with a switch on the adapter's wire or just unplug the adapter from the wall. That way the computer is still on, no rebooting or shutting down to disconnect.