Before I purchase any wires...

[Justin]

Last time I wired my control panel, I used this very hard  wire, and quick connects.  It was SUCH A PAIN IN THE $#%@# to attach all the connects, and it was even worse (read: boring, time consuming, tedious, and hard) to wire all the 'grounds' from control to control.

Am I missing something?   Is there a better way to do this?  I willing to shell out good cash for a better solution.  I see some folks use soft bendable wires (red?).  Where do I buy this?  Is there a kit or something with the connects already in place?

-J

[Jakobud]

It sounds to me like you had solid wires, instead of stranded wires.  Solid wires are wires that are one solid piece of copper (or whatever).  Stranded are lots of little strands all stranded together to make one wire. The later is obviously more flexible.  

Just get stranded wire and the quick disconnects and you will be fine.

[Justin]

I also remember having a lot of trouble with the Quick Disconnects from Bob Roberts.   Removing the red plastic insulator was an absolute pain in the @$$!!!  I distinctly remember wanting to jump out the balcony after attempting to remove the 3rd insulator.  They where so darn hard to remove... I still have plenty here with me, but I am not using those again!

What do you guys use?  

[vitaflo]

Um, if I'm reading what you're saying correctly, you're not supposed to remove the red plastic on the disconnects.  Perhaps Bob's are different than the ones I got (from Ultimarc), but w/ mine, there's nothing to remove, just stick the wires in and crimp.

[Justin]

LOL  

I know I had to remove them or there was no way to get the wire in there.

I was not using stranded wire though.  Maybe this was the problem  (too thick?)

[vitaflo]

That's definitely you're problem then.  You should be able to fit two wires into the disconnects in order to make your grounding loop.  If you can't even fit one in w/ the plastic on, you probably need smaller wire.

[Justin]

The insulator (red) is made of very hard plastic  (not rubber).  How am I meant to crimp the wire?  It will definitely crack the plastic!

[Sasquatch!]

The insulator (red) is made of very hard plastic  (not rubber).  How am I meant to crimp the wire?  It will definitely crack the plastic!

Didja read Bob Roberts' article on crimping?
http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/crimping.html

Also, the quasi-standard for wiring is:
- 20 Gauge for Low voltage/amperage DC.. e.g. Controls, coin door, etc.
- 18 Gauge for medium voltage/amperage DC. e.g. lamps, +5/+12 volts, etc.
- 16 Gauge for 120 volts AC wiring.

[vitaflo]

It won't (unless you have some weird disconnects).  I just use a wire stripper/crimper.   On the end there's marking for "Insul Closure", w/ three numbers.  I use 2.5 (the middle one) for the disconnects.  Just put it around the middle of the red plastic and squeeze.  It just makes an indentation in the red plastic and really locks the wires in there good.

Also I agree w/ a previous poster that stranded wire is the way to go.  Much more flexable.

[dhansen]

My friend, it's as easy as 1, 2, 3!!  

Get some 22 guage wire, a crimper, and some quick connects and voila!

[GroovyTuesdaY]

My friend, it's as easy as 1, 2, 3!!  

Get some 22 guage wire, a crimper, and some quick connects and voila!

Very nice my friend!     Good job with the illustrations
I'm sure there are those our there who will appreciate them!  I wish i had seen it before i started in with my wireing, would have saved me some needless fumbling around lol.

g~

Fixed by planetjay.

[spectre]

or better yet, an xarcade!

[dhansen]

or better yet, an xarcade!

Or even better still....

BYOAC!!!

Build Your OWN Arcade Controls!!