Woodworking 101

[shmokes]

I have a few questions about woodworking that I hope someone here with experience will answer for me.

1- How do you countersink for carriage bolts so they don't show through at the top?  I've googled and searched the forums and it seems that every thread takes for granted that everyone already knows how to countersink.  Apparently I should, but...I digress.  I figured it was simply drilling a hole somewhat smaller than the screw, but then I was reading about the square part of a carriage bolt lodging itself in, etc., etc. and I figured I'd better make sure that I'm getting it right.

2- How do you start a cut in the middle of a piece of wood, for example to cut out the square to mount a coindoor?  How about if you don't want to destroy the piece you are cutting out, if you were going to put hinges on it and make it an access door, for instance?

Thanks.  I'm sure I have more questions, but none pop immediately to mind.

p.s.  Here are my tools (though, most of them I just got -- total woodworking newbie):  Fixed Base and Plunge Router, 7 1/2" circular saw, Drill, Zipsaw, Jigsaw, Sander.  That's about it for the power tools.  I've got a 35 piece router-bit set of the sort that you pick up for $50-$70 on ebay so I've got a pretty good selection there.  I also have a very decent set of drill bits, probably about 80 pieces with some hole saws and spade bits and a counter sink little thingamajig that I can clamp down on a drill bit.

[IG-88]

For #1 I would use a wood "spade bit"(i think thats what they are called)  thats a little bigger than the diameter of the carriage bolt head and drill another hole on top of the first hole you drilled but only half way through. That way the bolt head sits below the surface. A good tightening will sink the square part into the wood securing it.

#2 This ones tricky. Pull the saftey sheild up and away from the blade of the circular saw with your thumb, holding it open, squeeze the trigger with the other hand so that the blade starts, then lower it into the wood right along the line. I wouldn't recommend it for a newbie tho, it can kick! Just have a good grip. Maybe try drilling a series of 1/16" holes along the line just enough so that you can get your jigsaw blade in there?!

[Valence]

For Number 1 what I do, is find a drill bit the size of the head of the bolt and then drill it backwards ( The drill rotating the opposite way) Free hand countersink drilling is very difficult. Drill press is the way to go but you don't have one. When you try to drill the countersink with the drill rotating normal a couple of things can happen. It will tear the wood and then you won't get a clean cut or it can grab and go all the way through really quickly.  Drill the hole with the drill bit that you would use for the cariage bolts and use it as a guide for the countersink. When you do the countersink, make sure you are square with the wood.( the drill bit is perpendicular to the wood) Then use a little pressure. If you are not square, it can walk. (The drill bit not staying in the hole) And if you put to much pressure it will go in to far. Use tape to mark on the drill bit the depth you want to go.

#2.  I half agree with dolphinwaxer. Its more than tricky. The way he tells you to do it is a way but since you don't have any experiance, the cuts are not going to come out straight at all. You also may end up cutting off your fingers. Not fun pushing Mame buttons with a stump
I would just concentrate on getting straight cuts in the wood (really hard with a jig saw) Use a straight edge or guide. Then if you cut the original hole straight, it will be easy to cut another piece of wood to the size of the hole.

Actually I just read that you had a zipsaw. Is this like a Rotozip? With a rotozip(zipsaw?) it is actually easy to cut a square hole and keep the middle. I would use a guide still to ensure that its straight.


Remember to mesure twice and cut once   words to live by.


AND WATCH YOUR FINGERS

[Wienerdog]

1- How do you countersink for carriage bolts so they don't show through at the top?  I've googled and searched the forums and it seems that every thread takes for granted that everyone already knows how to countersink.  Apparently I should, but...I digress.  I figured it was simply drilling a hole somewhat smaller than the screw, but then I was reading about the square part of a carriage bolt lodging itself in, etc., etc. and I figured I'd better make sure that I'm getting it right.

How do you want this to look?  When you tighten the carrage bolt, the square part will bite into the wood.  Do you want the smooth head to be below the surface of the wood?  If you do, the previous suggestion would work, but you have to be careful of the tips on the edges of your spade bits.  Those tips will cut deeper into the wood than the actual part of the blade that is cutting your recess.  If you have enough thickness on the wood, this will be fine.  However, if you are using 5/8" mdf, then this might not be the best choice.  By cutting the recess, you are weakening the remaining wood.  If you are using ply, then you are probably safe.  The better bit is probably a forstner bit, if you are going to countersink.  Oh, if you have a small enough hole saw, you can cut about 1/4" deep with the smallest hole saw bit, and then carve away the countersink with a utility knife.  Like I said, just be careful if you are doing this to MDF.

[AX]

what I do to counter sink is this.  I use the spade bit first.  it leaves a slightly pointed hole in the wood.  then I use this hole as a guid and drill it out the rest of the way.   As far as a drill press yeah it's gonna be better but this isn't rocket science.

[VMJ Team]

When I want my coutersunk holes to be neat and accurate...I use my router and a double fluted straight cutting bit...using the plunger on my router doubles as a drill press and there's the added benefit of having a depth gage.  The countersunk holes have a flat bottom opposed to a beveled bottom using a standard drill bit.

[Amra]

Theres actually serveral ways to tackle these 'tricks'.  

1. Sinking bolts.  I will describe the easiest way to do this.  You will need two or three drill bits (two for soft wood, three for hard), the type of bit is irrelevent, any bit will do as long at the size is right. First thing to do is take measurements of your carriage bolt.  The first one if the size of the threads (you probobly wont have to measure this one, ax. 3/16 Carriage bolts are obviously 3/16th threads) Another measurement is the head of your Carraige Bolt.  Using a set of calipers makes this an easy task as using a tape measurer is bit less accurate but possible.  When you determine that size, find a drill bit exactly this size or a little larger.  The last measurement you only need to take if your using a hard wood like oak.  That measurement is from two opposite points of the square under the head of the bolt.  You need a drill bit that is almost but not quite the same size.

Now, you mark the wood and drill your hole that is the same size as the threads, next you use the bit that is larger then your head, and only drill down 1/4 of an inch, enough so that the head of the bolt wont show.  Now, if you have soft wood then your done, as when you tighten the bolt down, the square of the carraige bolt will puch into the wood, making a square This can be done with a hammer and a punch or tightening the bolt on there alone.  One the other hand, if you have a hard wood, you should drill one more time, using the middle sized bit, again you only need 1/8th to a 1/4 of an inch down.  This hole allows your square to fit into that hole without turning since it is/should be slightly undersized.

If that isnt very clear I can provide photographs later.  ( i can make a couple examples and photo them, if needed)

#2  This one will be easier to explain, but harder to actually do.

The easiest way is to perform a "plunge cut" using the jigsaw, but if you are a neophyte woodworker, that might not be the best route for you.  If you are thinking about this route, or would liek to know more about this route, then This Page can give a better explination.

Now, you never said whether you wanted/needed rounded corners or not, but if you do, then the easiest way is to use one of the hole saws in each corner where the outermost edge of the hole saw is touching both lines, this will give you the room to simply set your jigsaw or rotozip in there and cut from one hole to the next.

Lastly, and possibly the quickest way, if first cut yourself somewhere to start from (or plunge cut), then follow your line all the way to the corner (use a jig if your not good at straight lines, by jig i mean clamp a peice of wood to the wood you are using, as a guide) go all the way to the corner, then back up about 12 inches, and make an arc to the next line, cut all the way to the corner and then back up and arc to the next line (this will do the whole hole in one cut, but it will leave a peice of wood in each corner) when your done, there will be a triangle in each corner, just line the jigsaw up and cut off each corner and then your done.

Again, if something didnt make sence, then I can do an example for you and take photos, if you need.


Hope this helped someone! :-D

[shmokes]

Whoooeeee!!!

And I thought everybody else had this figured out!  

This is some great and helpful stuff.  I will not cut my fingers off.  I refuse to.  I'm totally surprised at all the different methods that were brought up.  

Thanks Amra.  What you said seems to make sense, but I might take you up on those photos if I get into it and get confused.  I appreciate the offer of makeing some cuts for the sole purpose of taking pictures to make things more clear for me.  Very generous.

This piqued my curiosity.  Apparently the square cut should be easy with a rotozip (perhaps the same as a zipsaw -- different brands?).  How would one do it with a rotozip?  Here's what a zipsaw is:

http://www.blackanddecker.com/productguide/productdetail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=5259

Oh, yeah.  I don't have a drill press, but I've got one of those handy drill guides that turn a hand drill into a mini-drill-press.  Also, my drill has a bit of a level built in to it.  Or, at least a light comes on when it's level.  Not sure if it does it when I'm drilling straight down...hmm...anyway, let me know if you don't know what the hell I'm talking about by the drill-guide and I'll scare up a picture of it.  I'm such a dork.  I've got all this stuff I've never used before.  I got it all for mame.  I blame all of you!  I'm obsessed!

Thanks for all the help.  I'll dive in on Saturday.  Picking up the wood tomorrow afternoon.  God help me