Author Topic: Specialty Tool for T-molding? (Read 8550 times)

CD_Vision · « **on:** July 09, 2002, 11:19:59 pm »

It's my understanding that people in the cabinet industry have a tool that they use, which is specifically meant for cutting t-molding grooves. Is this correct, or should I just buy a decent router? I need to get some moulding on the sides of my cabinet. I've got a Dremel, and I bought the router kit, but it is *way* too difficult to hold steady.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #1 on:** July 09, 2002, 11:28:00 pm »

i am also very very interested in any other way..please someone know anyother way..i never user any router because the home depot guy scared the crap out of me..he claims is very hard to do..ANYONE HELP???

JustMichael · « **Reply #2 on:** July 10, 2002, 12:12:03 am »

Using a router with a 1/16" slot cutting bit is really easy IF you cut the slots before assembling the cab. It is much easier to cut the slot when the board is laying nice and flat and you can rest the router on it.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #3 on:** July 10, 2002, 12:31:50 am »

but is it possible even after i made the cabinet..its done.i went with iron edge molding..it look okay but i wanted to finish with golden t-molding...thanks for any info...

SteveJ · « **Reply #4 on:** July 10, 2002, 10:49:56 am »

Quote

It's my understanding that people in the cabinet industry have a tool that they use, which is specifically meant for cutting t-molding grooves. Is this correct, or should I just buy a decent router? I need to get some moulding on the sides of my cabinet. I've got a Dremel, and I bought the router kit, but it is *way* too difficult to hold steady.

I also purchased the router kit but never used it as I couldn't a. find a bit that was the right width b. couldn't figure how to manage that router attachment and keep it all straight.

I didn't have access to a real router and didn't really want to spend $ to buy one when I am not doing that much woodwork to require it in the future.

I used my dremel, the circular spacer, and a carbide cutting wheel I saw someone else recommend.

I already had my cab assembled, so I just turned it on its side, tested with pieces of scrap to get the cut centered (on 5/8 mdf), and went to town.

Go slow and be prepared to eat lots of dust if you are cutting MDF.

I was really pleased with the results...your mileage may vary.

If you are up to purchase a router and bit, this is the way others will recommend but I thought I would toss in how I did it seeing as you already have a dremel.

Cheers!

Steve

JustMichael · « **Reply #5 on:** July 10, 2002, 10:51:20 am »

it depends upon your cabinet. If the t-molding is just going on the sides I would suggest turning the cab on its side (make sure the cab is on something soft like a blanket so it doesn't mar the side that is down). When you get done with that side flip the cabinet over to the other side and cut.

Radeyes · « **Reply #6 on:** July 10, 2002, 03:03:22 pm »

I was only applying t-molding to my control panel, and I didnt have a router, so I also went with the dremel approach. I used bit #542 ( http://www.dremel.com/productdisplay/bit_template.asp?SKU=542&Color=CC0000 ) which made the perfect size slot for the molding. I just went really slow, and did it outside (tons of sawdust). I imagine it would be a pain for a full cabinet, but its definetely possible. If you screw up (slot not perfectly centered), widening the slot and using some hot glue easily covers up mistakes.

braxiss · « **Reply #7 on:** July 12, 2002, 07:33:14 pm »

Quote

but is it possible even after i am make the cabinet..mine is done.i went with iron edge molding..it look okay but i wanted to finish with golden t-molding...thanks for any info...

Whatever you do, be sure that your cabinet screws are set back far enough that you won't hit them!!!!!

Hardened Router bit + 5000 RPM + Nasty Screw in the way = A V E R Y BAD DAY.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #8 on:** November 02, 2003, 01:44:21 pm »

Check with www.t-molding.com

Minwah · « **Reply #9 on:** November 02, 2003, 04:12:13 pm »

I've never used a router before and it's more or less my next job. I'll post once I've done it if anyones interested in my 'novice' experience.

I'm not sure when tho, I ordered the router bit (pretty hard to find in the UK), and we've now got postal strikes

DAmnb · « **Reply #10 on:** November 02, 2003, 04:18:56 pm »

I see dead threads

eightbit · « **Reply #11 on:** November 02, 2003, 05:06:57 pm »

Using a router is not that hard but its like any other power high speed cutting tool. You need to know how to use it and you need to respect it.

harbor freight has a router for $20, slot cutter bit for another $8 and you'll be making slots. Its also an excellent tool for other shaping and hole cutting dutys. Its actually one of the most flexible and powerfull tools in woodworking because it can do many different things.

The most important thing with a router is always cut in the direction against the spin of the bit.

The guys at home depot are not woodworkers, they don't necessarily know anything more about tools than the stock boy at the grocery store.

Sasquatch! · « **Reply #12 on:** November 02, 2003, 05:39:41 pm »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on July 10, 2002, 12:31:50 am

but is it possible even after i am make the cabinet..mine is done.i went with iron edge molding..it look okay but i wanted to finish with golden t-molding...thanks for any info...

Like JustMichael said, definitely lay your cabinet on its side. It would be a lot more difficult to go up and down, because you'd have to support the weight of the router with your hands.

Don't let that Home Depot guy scare ya, dude.

I had never used a router before a couple of months ago, and cutting the t-molding slot was EASY. I mean, the cutter went through the MDF like butter, nice and straight too on my first try. You can do it!

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #13 on:** November 02, 2003, 05:45:53 pm »

Quote from: Sasquatch! on November 02, 2003, 05:39:41 pm

Quote from: SNAAAKE on July 10, 2002, 12:31:50 am
but is it possible even after I am done with the cabinet?.i went with iron edge molding..it look okay but i wanted to finish with golden t-molding...thanks for any info...
Like JustMichael said, definitely lay your cabinet on its side. It would be a lot more difficult to go up and down, because you'd have to support the weight of the router with your hands.

Don't let that Home Depot guy scare ya, dude. I had never used a router before a couple of months ago, and cutting the t-molding slot was EASY. I mean, the cutter went through the MDF like butter, nice and straight too on my first try. You can do it!

dude this is from last year

Cant belive I thought using a router was dangerous...lol.

SirPeale · « **Reply #14 on:** November 02, 2003, 06:13:11 pm »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on November 02, 2003, 05:45:53 pm

dude this is from last year
Cant belive I thought using a router was dangerous...lol.

Yeah, Ken Layton has been resurrecting a lot of dead threads. Makes interesting reading. Stuff I never saw before, suddenly comes to light!

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #15 on:** November 02, 2003, 06:22:31 pm »

Quote from: Peale on November 02, 2003, 06:13:11 pm

Quote from: SNAAAKE on November 02, 2003, 05:45:53 pm
dude this is from last year
Cant belive I thought using a router was dangerous...lol.

Yeah, Ken Layton has been resurrecting a lot of dead threads. Makes interesting reading. Stuff I never saw before, suddenly comes to light!

Yeah good ol memories of my typos... $:-\$
I should always check what I write.People quote my typo and spelling ALL the time

Sasquatch! · « **Reply #16 on:** November 02, 2003, 06:41:06 pm »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on November 02, 2003, 05:45:53 pm

dude this is from last year
Cant belive I thought using a router was dangerous...lol.

DOH, I can't believe I didn't notice that. Hahahaha, whoops!

Lilwolf · « **Reply #17 on:** November 03, 2003, 09:01:07 am »

Eightbit... What partnumber was the slot cutter you got? Was it 1/16?

I need to get a non-plunger router (sucks for sides) and I might get that 20 buck one. Looks great for small jobs (really I can't afford a $150 nice one and it looks good enought for me)

But I only saw a 2 peice set for 10 bucks... but they are 1/8 and 1/4. The 1/8 I hear requires you to use glue when doing tmolding

eightbit · « **Reply #18 on:** November 03, 2003, 11:00:13 am »

Quote from: Lilwolf on November 03, 2003, 09:01:07 am

Eightbit... What partnumber was the slot cutter you got? Was it 1/16?

I need to get a non-plunger router (sucks for sides) and I might get that 20 buck one. Looks great for small jobs (really I can't afford a $150 nice one and it looks good enought for me)

But I only saw a 2 peice set for 10 bucks... but they are 1/8 and 1/4. The 1/8 I hear requires you to use glue when doing tmolding

Harbor freight doesn't have the slot cutter you need. I know I've seen them posted from different sources several times here. You'll probably have to search the archives to find them.

papaschtroumpf · « **Reply #19 on:** November 03, 2003, 03:33:39 pm »

If you've got a router, how about going without T-Molding at all? My cab uses MDF and I routed the edges to give them a rounded look. Looks great, took 20 minutes, no issues with trim color and thickness.
Just a thought...

eightbit · « **Reply #20 on:** November 03, 2003, 05:37:41 pm »

Quote from: papaschtroumpf on November 03, 2003, 03:33:39 pm

If you've got a router, how about going without T-Molding at all? My cab uses MDF and I routed the edges to give them a rounded look. Looks great, took 20 minutes, no issues with trim color and thickness.
Just a thought...

MDF edges don't wouldn't hold up well in a arcade but for a home cab they should be fine.

soslo · « **Reply #21 on:** November 03, 2003, 10:52:23 pm »

Well, I just went through the horror of trying to do the t-modling with a dremel and the carbide bit mentioned above. Its a nice little bit...but not up to the task of forming a new groove in 20-30 feet of melamine (particle board).

First of all, I went through 2 of those $17 bits...and still didn't finish the cab. In fact, I was only about half way through. So I had to take a straight cutter and go carefully down the sides and make an even bigger groove, and use polyurethane glue to hold the t-molding in.

Well, after the glue foamed out of every seem, and the hours it took to clean that stuff off (awesome glue - sucks to clean out of t-molding grooves though), I was frustrated.

The t-molding looks great and is held in *very* tightly by the glue, but I DO NOT recommend this method. Oh yeah, I burned up two of the good craftsman rotary tools in the process. Fortunately, they are cool on the returns.

In all, with the price I spent on the router attachment kit for the rotary, and the two bits, I could have purchased a cheap craftsman router and the 3/32 wood bit from MLCS.

FWIW, I just received the 3/32 bit from MLCS today ($18 shipped) and will buy a router here in the near future for the 3rd cab. That t-molding experience completely sucked.

SpamMe · « **Reply #22 on:** November 04, 2003, 04:52:32 am »

Yeah, I highly recommend doing this right if you have or can possibly get (buy, borrow, steal etc.) a router. I cut the groove for the two large side panels of my cab in about two minutes each. Really easy stuff if the tools are available.

paigeoliver · « **Reply #23 on:** November 04, 2003, 04:58:47 am »

Just wondering if anyone has ever tried using a jigsaw or circular saw? It seems like it might be possible if you had a very steady hand.

JustMichael · « **Reply #24 on:** November 04, 2003, 06:07:02 am »

Quote from: paigeoliver on November 04, 2003, 04:58:47 am

Just wondering if anyone has ever tried using a jigsaw or circular saw? It seems like it might be possible if you had a very steady hand.

ROFL!

menace · « **Reply #25 on:** November 04, 2003, 07:01:45 am »

I just routed my t-molding slots last night with the slot cutter--once you figure out the best way to hold the router it was a piece of cake. I used a black and decker portable 5-in-1 system with the router attachment--you could also use a rotozip if you don't want to shell out money just for a router this is a nice versatile little tool. heres a pic.

paigeoliver · « **Reply #26 on:** November 04, 2003, 07:17:51 am »

t-molding is actually one of the main reasons that I always use original cabinets, rather than build new ones. I can usually buy a cabinet for cheaper than it could cost to put t-molding on a new one.

eightbit · « **Reply #27 on:** November 04, 2003, 09:07:41 am »

Quote from: paigeoliver on November 04, 2003, 04:58:47 am

Just wondering if anyone has ever tried using a jigsaw or circular saw? It seems like it might be possible if you had a very steady hand.

Jigsaw would not work. The blade moves up and down.

A circular saw would be possible if you found a thin enough blade then you would have the issue of centering it on the edge and keeping it there while you kept it level. It would probably cost more in material screwups than to buy a router and the slot cutter bit.

dphirschler · « **Reply #28 on:** November 04, 2003, 02:32:12 pm »

http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1067970755_22740+105

Darryl

Hammerbot · « **Reply #29 on:** November 04, 2003, 04:03:47 pm »

If anyone does try the circular saw idea PLEASE, PLEASE set up the video camera. It will do 3 things:
1. It will prove to the insurance adjusters that it wasn't an attempt to commit suicide.
2. It will allow you to look back on your last few minutes with 10 fingers and someday laugh. And
3. It will prove the age old adage "be wary of a jack --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- with a circular saw"...

If you cant pony the $$$ for a new router you can rent one for only $$ at a rental store...

soslo · « **Reply #30 on:** November 04, 2003, 04:33:46 pm »

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #31 on:** November 04, 2003, 05:47:16 pm »

Quote from: paigeoliver on November 04, 2003, 04:58:47 am

Just wondering if anyone has ever tried using a jigsaw or circular saw? It seems like it might be possible if you had a very steady hand.

You sure you wanna try jigsaw

?
LOL
C'mon man...thats...sad.
Router is the ONLY go.
I cut the slot for my cabinet in less then 5 minutes.

$60 well spent(+$22bit)

SeanFu · « **Reply #32 on:** November 04, 2003, 09:35:29 pm »

I've got a related question. I used the 1/16th t-molding bit and a router. The groove looked pretty nice and clean.

The other night I sweated and cursed for 2 damn hours pressing the T-molding into the groove. My thumbs still hurt.

Is this normal?

Every step of this project seems to involve a lot of cursing. I do sitll have 10 fingers though.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #33 on:** November 04, 2003, 09:51:21 pm »

Quote from: honko the clown on November 04, 2003, 09:35:29 pm

I've got a related question. I used the 1/16th t-molding bit and a router. The groove looked pretty nice and clean.

The other night I sweated and cursed for 2 damn hours pressing the T-molding into the groove. My thumbs still hurt.

Is this normal?

Every step of this project seems to involve a lot of cursing. I do sitll have 10 fingers though.

um,yes its normal.
use a plastic hammer(mallet..spelling?)

eightbit · « **Reply #34 on:** November 04, 2003, 09:57:39 pm »

You want the t-molding to fit tight. If it goes in easy it won't stay over time. A wooden or rubber hammer or a block of wood and a regular hammer helps it go in a little easier. You shouldn't have to pound on it, it should just tap in. When you get to corners or tight bends make sure to notch out the back to allow it to make the curves.

Infrasonic · « **Reply #35 on:** November 05, 2003, 09:21:47 pm »

Router safety tips:

A router spins at 25 thousand RPM. You should be awake and alert before using a router table. Routing w/o the table is probably safer. I recomend a cartridge respirator with P100 filters, hearing protection and wraparound goggles.

Get a "slot-cutting" bit, the 'kerf' I use is 3/32. A block of wood and some cloth or a rubber mallet are a must.

Never heard of t-moulding.com before, and I have a folder of bookmarks just for t-moulding.

eightbit · « **Reply #36 on:** November 05, 2003, 09:53:17 pm »

Quote from: Infrasonic on November 05, 2003, 09:21:47 pm

Get a "slot-cutting" bit, the 'kerf' I use is 3/32. A block of wood and some cloth or a rubber mallet are a must.

Never heard of t-moulding.com before, and I have a folder of bookmarks just for t-moulding.

The bit might depend on your t-molding because t-moulding.com recomends the 1/16".

What other good sites do you have for t-moulding?

Tailgunner · « **Reply #37 on:** November 05, 2003, 10:08:42 pm »

The T-molding I got from Brady needs a 5/64" slot.

rockhopper · « **Reply #38 on:** November 05, 2003, 10:26:11 pm »

Australian people can get 1.6mm slot cutters from apworkshop.com.au in Melbourne, works like a charm with t-moulding from t-molding.com

Minwah · « **Reply #39 on:** November 06, 2003, 05:08:35 am »

I just got a 1.5mm kerf slot cutting bit. Unfortunately, I didn't realise it didn't come with the arbor and bearings (the pic on the website showed it all together, and didn't specify that most of it wasn't included)


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Author Topic: Specialty Tool for T-molding? (Read 8550 times)

SteveJ

braxiss