Best way to fill button holes in wooden CP?

[Buddabing]

Bondo, or some kind of plug?

What about for multiple holes, say 6-8?

Which method would allow redrilling?

Regards,
Buddabing

[Dervacumen]

Because of the size of those holes (maybe 1 1/8"?) I would get a same diameter dowel and cut out a plug just a little bit thicker than the thickness of the CP.  Glue the plug in, then use a very sharp chisel to make flush.  Complete by sanding.  Then you can drill whereever you need to.

Not that I've ever done it on a hole that size, but it works well on smaller holes.

[Kaytrim]

Take a look at my project thread, link in sig.  I go over how I fill in button holes.

[leapinlew]

I'm curious as to why anyone would need to fill a hole in a wooden CP? Can the CP not easily be recut or is there a reason to keep the cp?

[Buddabing]

The CP cannot easily be recut.

[leapinlew]

The CP cannot easily be recut.

I see. Any chance of posting a pic? I'm curious what it would look like - it must be a different design than what I'm picturing in my head. My last arcade - once I took the original CP off it was in terrible shape. I clamped it to some plywood and traced it with a flush mount trimmer to get a duplicate.

As for filling the holes, one thing that may work would be to glue/screw another piece of wood to the bottom (say 1/4") of the existing CP where it would need to be filled. This would allow the bondo (or whatever material you used) to get a better hold, and if you drilled another button hole through, it would have some extra strength. I wouldn't recommend it for under the joystick area, just the buttons.

[Buddabing]

Sure, I'm modifying a HotRod SE by replacing the left joystick with a T-Stick Plus, putting in only three buttons and replacing the right joystick area with a trackball.

I suppose it would be possible just to construct a new CP top.

[leapinlew]

Sure, I'm modifying a HotRod SE by replacing the left joystick with a T-Stick Plus, putting in only three buttons and replacing the right joystick area with a trackball.

I suppose it would be possible just to construct a new CP top.

I see now. If you have access to a router and a flush trim bit - this would take about 10 minutes and cost around 10 bucks.

If you want to plug the holes, I think the easiest method would be to use a 1/4" piece of ply under the buttons (glued and screwed) and then fill and redrill.

[Buddabing]

I have a Craftsman rotary tool that functions as a router.

What is this "flush trim bit" you speak of and how does it work? The wiki article doesn't have enough information. Does the flush trim bit allow the user to use the old piece of wood as a template? Does the T-molding on the sides of the old piece of wood have to be removed first?

[Kaytrim]

Yes to both questions.  The flush trim bit has a roller that rides along the template cutting the other piece of wood trimming flush to the template.  This will give you an exact copy of the outline of the template.

[Buddabing]

Will the flush trim bit work with plywood, or will it splinter it?

[acevedor2]

Works like a champ.

[leapinlew]

Will the flush trim bit work with plywood, or will it splinter it?

Hey Buddabing!

Here is a shot of me using my flush trim bit to cut some MDF:


They make them with the guide on top or the guide on bottom. I've found the best place to get them is from MLCS woodworking online. Really good. www.mlcswoodworking.com make sure you know your shank size. I am concerned that the unit your using may not have enough muscle. Whats the specs on it?

A few cabinets back, I actually cut my CP out of 3/4" instead of 5/8ths. I fixed the issue by screwing the old CP onto some 5/8ths wood and created another control panel. It only took a few minutes. In the pic you'll also see a 5/8ths bit used to drill out small holes (just big enough for the flush trim bit) in the button holes so I could use the router to flush trim them as well.


It's my favorite bit! On my bartop - I created a side I wanted and used a flush trim bit to create it's twin brother:





You would think with my babbling on and on about the flush trim bit, that I sell them for a living or something!

Anyhow, if I were you, I'd recut a top and if you want to get fancy - consider putting some plexi (the flush trim bit does a great job on that too) with some artwork underneath. Good luck! Make a project announcement - I'd like to watch it develop.

[Buddabing]

I read the fine manual on the Craftsman rotary unit, and it will take 1/8" or 1/4" bits. The motor is 3/4" horsepower. I see that most routers are 1.5 to 2 horsepower If the horsepower on the Craftsman is not sufficient I probably can borrow a router from my across the street neighbor who is Mr. Woodshop.

[leapinlew]

I read the fine manual on the Craftsman rotary unit, and it will take 1/8" or 1/4" bits. The motor is 3/4" horsepower. I see that most routers are 1.5 to 2 horsepower If the horsepower on the Craftsman is not sufficient I probably can borrow a router from my across the street neighbor who is Mr. Woodshop.

Awesome! Good luck...

[ChadTower]

Thanks for all of that info, guys... helped clear up a little for me about what a flush trim bit is.

[Tahnok]

Good advice, but I wouldn't personally recommend a flush trim bit for working with such thick material. If you have the choice, get a pattern cutting bit.

Your 3/4 horsepower rotary will probably be enough if you go slowly and trim away as much excess away as possible. Make sure you have less than the router bit's width excess.

[leapinlew]

Good advice, but I wouldn't personally recommend a flush trim bit for working with such thick material. If you have the choice, get a pattern cutting bit.

Your 3/4 horsepower rotary will probably be enough if you go slowly and trim away as much excess away as possible. Make sure you have less than the router bit's width excess.

I've used a flush trim on 3/4" plywood. I haven't used a pattern cutting bit - whats the difference?(besides price) The flush trim bits are around $10 for my router and the pattern cutting is around $21.

[ChadTower]

I'm guessing a lot of it is how long they will last at that task.  Flush trimming is only cutting off a little on one side... pattern cutting is cutting on about 270 of the 360 degrees of rotation most of the time.

[Tahnok]

I'm guessing a lot of it is how long they will last at that task.  Flush trimming is only cutting off a little on one side... pattern cutting is cutting on about 270 of the 360 degrees of rotation most of the time.

Exactly. Pattern cutting bits have longer blades and are actually made to do this kind of work. They also keep the pattern on the bottom, which makes working with the piece a lot easier. I think, as long as someone is buying a new bit, they might as well spend a few extra bucks and get the one designed for the job.

I have no doubt that you've been able to use a flush trim to do a similar job (I have as well). It's just not recommended.

[xmenxmen]

Any recommendation on pattern bits?  Last time I tried it with my trimming bit, I found it being too short to cover the hole 3/4 board.  So, I am still shopping for one for use in the future. 

And while shopping I notice there some that have 2 roller (top and bottom), how are those?

[ChadTower]

Slot cutters?

[Tahnok]

Any recommendation on pattern bits?  Last time I tried it with my trimming bit, I found it being too short to cover the hole 3/4 board.  So, I am still shopping for one for use in the future. 

And while shopping I notice there some that have 2 roller (top and bottom), how are those?

I've never used one of the double bearing ones. Seems like it would be a pretty slick bit if you're wanting something that can do both pattern and flush trim cutting.

Personally, I have this bit. It's decent, nothing special.