The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: johnrt on December 26, 2014, 04:43:05 pm
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I have 11 JAMMA/non-JAMMA PCB's for cabinets named KENNY's. Most of them works! Some needs some maintenance. The KENNY cabinet looks like this and have front panels with PCB and control panel that are interchangeable. The monitor can be mounted both vertical and horizontal. A quite genious solution actually.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/Kennys1.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/kennys-2.png)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/kennys-3.png)
The cabinets I possess are worn out and beyond repair. They are also wall-mounted and therefore quite limited when it comes to placement. I have 3 (or maybe 4) 13" monitors from that cabs (CRT) that I can use. I have already cap-kit'ed one of them.
The interchangeable front panels look like this (Remember I have 11 of these). This is UFO ROBO DANGAR btw. The control panels are different from each game.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2014-12-26%2022.11.05.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2014-12-26%2022.11.49.jpg)
I want to make a cab based on LT's Asteroids Deluxe Cabaret:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,141486.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,141486.0.html)
These are the PCB's I've got:
1. Arkanoid - Revenge of DOH - Taito - 1987 - Vertical
2. Bloody Wolf - Nihon Bussan - 1988 - Horizontal
3. Ufo Robo Dangar - Nichibutsu - 1985 - Vertical
4. Shinobi - Sega - 1987 - Horizontal
5. Dragon Breed - Irem - 1989 - Horizontal
6. Chuka Taisen - Taito - 1988 - Horizontal
7. Salamander - Konami - 1986 - Horizontal
8. Dark Seal - Nihon Bussan - 1990 - Horizontal
9. Final Round - Konami - 1988 - Horizontal
10. The Next Space - SNK - 1989 - Vertical
11. Rabbit Punch - V-System - 1987 - Horizontal
Most of them are horizontal. There are however 3 verticals.
How can I make ONE cabinet and still make it quite easy to change PCB? I will have to make a CP for each one of them. The monitor has to be easily rotated. Manually. Can all PCB's be mounted on separate shelves, so I just have to switch JAMMA-connector to change game?
Or do you guys have a better idea? I believe LT's cabaret is quite easy to make, and it also looks damn good.
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I would just fix one of the Kenny's cabinet instead, as it's
a: Quite easy to switch games and the controls will be perfect for them immediately
b: Easy to rotate the monitor (or so I've heard, these were very very common here in Sweden in the 80's and 90's).
c: Doesn't take up much space, so good for keeping your spouse happy
You can mount Japanese joysticks in these panels with a small modification to the mounting plate if your current sticks suck, or just clean the original ones, lube 'em and fit new micro switches. The buttons in these panels does suck a bit (they squeak, right?), but adding other buttons would be possible if you have access to a nice drill. All games except UFO Dangar (and Wonder Boy if you forgot to list it, as it's pictured in the cabinet?) are JAMMA (though Arkanoid II uses a spinner, so JAMMA+?).
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I would just fix one of the Kenny's cabinet instead, as it's
a: Quite easy to switch games and the controls will be perfect for them immediately
b: Easy to rotate the monitor (or so I've heard, these were very very common here in Sweden in the 80's and 90's).
c: Doesn't take up much space, so good for keeping your spouse happy
You can mount Japanese joysticks in these panels with a small modification to the mounting plate if your current sticks suck, or just clean the original ones, lube 'em and fit new micro switches. The buttons in these panels does suck a bit (they squeak, right?), but adding other buttons would be possible if you have access to a nice drill. All games except UFO Dangar (and Wonder Boy if you forgot to list it, as it's pictured in the cabinet?) are JAMMA (though Arkanoid II uses a spinner, so JAMMA+?).
The first pics are not from my cabs, so I don't have Wonder Boy. (I can't find my own pics of them that I took this summer)
I believe they were quite common here in Norway too, but my cabs are WAY too worn to even THINK about restoring it. And whether you mount the cab on the wall, or place it next to it, it doesn't matter. I also hate those KENNY's cabs a little. :dunno And yes, the buttons sucks! The joysticks are leaf switch joysticks and just needs some lube.
I will find a way to easily connect the boards anyhow. I'm quite familar with electronics.
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This is Revenge of DOH, a JAMMA board definately: (It's VERY dusty, as it hasn't been cleaned yet)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2014-12-27%2000.42.40.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2014-12-27%2000.43.00.jpg)
The spinner also makes a squeeky noise so it has to be changed or lubed.
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Well, if you hate 'em, I understand you'd want something different. :)
You could mount all of your PCBs, one by one on a piece of wood (10 mm MDF or plywood) with the same size (as big as your largest PCB) with the JAMMA connector pointing the same way. That way, the JAMMA connector for your harness in the cab you're building will be easy to connect to them when you wanna switch games.
I've attached a small sketch of how I would build it.
Make a round opening for the monitor's neck and mount the chassis below. Put four screws for the monitor to rest on and just loosen the bolts when you need to rotate the screen, as the round hole is larger than the tube's neck. It's easy to manually rotate a 20" monitor. If you go bigger, you should try to use a round frame attached to the tube with wheels so your can turn it without physically having to lift it up.
Make a large door for access to lift out the PCBs. Make a simple "shelf" for the wooden board, and one more above so the board is held in place top and bottom. Have the JAMMA harness come up from the compartment below. This door also gives you access to the monitor controls.
The bottom door gives you access to the +5V on the PSU, as you will need to check that the PCB used doesn't get too much +5V, or the board might die.
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Here's a picture of the service space of my Japanese EGRET II cabinet. The PCB board is to the left.
(http://www.emphatic.se/EGRET_II_pics/innards_15kHz_3.jpg)
I've attached a plastic PCB holder to it, so I won't need to have a big board for each of my PCBs. But with a smaller collection of games, this helps when handling these old, often fragile games.
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Well, if you hate 'em, I understand you'd want something different. :)
You could mount all of your PCBs, one by one on a piece of wood (10 mm MDF or plywood) with the same size (as big as your largest PCB) with the JAMMA connector pointing the same way. That way, the JAMMA connector for your harness in the cab you're building will be easy to connect to them when you wanna switch games.
I've attached a small sketch of how I would build it.
Make a round opening for the monitor's neck and mount the chassis below. Put four screws for the monitor to rest on and just loosen the bolts when you need to rotate the screen, as the round hole is larger than the tube's neck. It's easy to manually rotate a 20" monitor. If you go bigger, you should try to use a round frame attached to the tube with wheels so your can turn it without physically having to lift it up.
Make a large door for access to lift out the PCBs. Make a simple "shelf" for the wooden board, and one more above so the board is held in place top and bottom. Have the JAMMA harness come up from the compartment below. This door also gives you access to the monitor controls.
The bottom door gives you access to the +5V on the PSU, as you will need to check that the PCB used doesn't get too much +5V, or the board might die.
Yes, that was something I was thinking about. :cheers: I have some 13" CRT's from the KENNY's I've been planning to reuse. One of them is recapped and works great now. Do you think these will be too small?
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Yes, that was something I was thinking about. :cheers: I have some 13" CRT's from the KENNY's I've been planning to reuse. One of them is recapped and works great now. Do you think these will be too small?
I suggest you build your cabinet around the size of the screen rather than build it too big, or the small screen will look ridiculous. ;)
If I had to build a cabinet myself today, I would build a lowboy (search the forum announcements for one) and put a 19-28" CRT TV in it. As long as the TV has RGB scart input, you can hook it up to the JAMMA wiring without much problem. Just get a scart cable and strip one end and hook up the needed RGBS and the +5V(?) that tells the TV to power up and turn on the A/V channel.
Protip:
Find a cheap used TV (like a Sony Trinitron) and Google for "Sony tv hidden service menu" with the model no to see if you get a hit. In the service menu, you are able to change horizontal and vertical size with the remote so you can change it per game or find a "sweet spot" to fit most games if you plan on changing them often. This is the only real disadvantage of using a consumer screen instead of an arcade monitor IMHO.
Of course, using an arcade monitor is easier, but I don't know how common they are in Norway? In Sweden, we have a great arcade community, so finding monitors is still doable without paying too much.
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I suggest you build your cabinet around the size of the screen rather than build it too big, or the small screen will look ridiculous. ;)
If I had to build a cabinet myself today, I would build a lowboy (search the forum announcements for one) and put a 19-28" CRT TV in it. As long as the TV has RGB scart input, you can hook it up to the JAMMA wiring without much problem. Just get a scart cable and strip one end and hook up the needed RGBS and the +5V(?) that tells the TV to power up and turn on the A/V channel.
Protip:
Find a cheap used TV (like a Sony Trinitron) and Google for "Sony tv hidden service menu" with the model no to see if you get a hit. In the service menu, you are able to change horizontal and vertical size with the remote so you can change it per game or find a "sweet spot" to fit most games if you plan on changing them often. This is the only real disadvantage of using a consumer screen instead of an arcade monitor IMHO.
Of course, using an arcade monitor is easier, but I don't know how common they are in Norway? In Sweden, we have a great arcade community, so finding monitors is still doable without paying too much.
Thanks for the tips! It's close to impossible getting an arcade monitor here in Norway. One have to be lucky finding one at finn.no for example. But Sweden is just a little over an hour driving away (probably not the greatest arcade community at Storlien though) :lol
One other option is to use a CRT computer monitor. Those are very easy to find! And they're free.
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One other option is to use a CRT computer monitor. Those are very easy to find! And they're free.
Won't work with your JAMMA games though, and they weigh so much more than a TV. Or you could just try to buy a JK cabinet (are you familiar with those in Norway?) and play the games on that. 20", easy to rotate.
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Won't work with your JAMMA games though, and they weigh so much more than a TV. Or you could just try to buy a JK cabinet (are you familiar with those in Norway?) and play the games on that. 20", easy to rotate.
With this it will: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291337633577 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/291337633577)
No, I've never heard of or seen a JK cab before (I googled it). But I rather build my own cab.
I guess I will have to mock-up the monitor with the cabinet plans to see what works.
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I would take a TV any day over the CGA->VGA. It will add lag for some games (NEO GEO and CPS2 works great though) and some games with odd refresh rates won't work or you'll get tearing. I've used one just like it in one of my projects, and I didn't like it one bit.
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Today I've cleaned and lubed the Taito spinner for Arkanoid 2. The only problem with it was that it was dry. Now it spins again! I took it apart, cleaned every little part, and oiled and greased the moving parts.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2014-12-27%2021.24.39.jpg)
I also cleaned a couple of boards: Arkanoid 2 and Ufo Robo Dangar:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2014-12-27%2022.13.05.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2014-12-27%2022.13.26.jpg)
I'm looking forward to play some arcade games the way they were intended to be played!
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I have an idea. The inner width of the KENNYS cabinet is 41cm. The inner width of LT's Asteroids Cabaret is 46cm. If i make the cabaret a couple of cm's narrower the original 13" arcade monitor from the KENNYS cab will fit nicely... I think... Then all my problems are solved. No need for acquiring a monitor, and the build will be the cheapest one yet. :cheers:
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Lefty is 16" wide and the right is 18". :cheers: You'll be good to go with that 13" monitor.
PERFECT! Monitor problem: SOLVED! :applaud: (As a bonus I have several monitors for reserve if one fail)
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Sounds like a nice plan! :cheers: Great work on cleaning up the spinner and the boards. Just make sure everything's 100% dry before connecting them to power.
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I've never heard of the KENNY cabinet. Being able to switch panels like that is very unique. Was this something unique to Europe?
Have you considered using a Jamma switcher? I was at an arcade recently that had several cabinets set up with 2-1 switchers. They seemed pretty slick and I believe they make 6-1 switchers as well.
This is an interesting build. LT's AD was one of my favorite builds from last year. Can't go wrong with that model. :cheers:
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I've never heard of the KENNY cabinet. Being able to switch panels like that is very unique. Was this something unique to Europe?
Have you considered using a Jamma switcher? I was at an arcade recently that had several cabinets set up with 2-1 switchers. They seemed pretty slick and I believe they make 6-1 switchers as well.
This is an interesting build. LT's AD was one of my favorite builds from last year. Can't go wrong with that model. :cheers:
What do you mean? I thought all people were building here were monster cabs with 2 ton frankenpanels??? :dizzy:
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I've never heard of the KENNY cabinet. Being able to switch panels like that is very unique. Was this something unique to Europe?
Have you considered using a Jamma switcher? I was at an arcade recently that had several cabinets set up with 2-1 switchers. They seemed pretty slick and I believe they make 6-1 switchers as well.
This is an interesting build. LT's AD was one of my favorite builds from last year. Can't go wrong with that model. :cheers:
What do you mean? I thought all people were building here were monster cabs with 2 ton frankenpanels??? :dizzy:
Thanks for that. :cheers:
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I've never heard of the KENNY cabinet. Being able to switch panels like that is very unique. Was this something unique to Europe?
Have you considered using a Jamma switcher? I was at an arcade recently that had several cabinets set up with 2-1 switchers. They seemed pretty slick and I believe they make 6-1 switchers as well.
This is an interesting build. LT's AD was one of my favorite builds from last year. Can't go wrong with that model. :cheers:
I don't know. If I remember correctly, it's a cab manufactured in Italy. But they were quite common here in Scandinavia. Often seen on the wall in gas stations.
I've never heard of a JAMMA switcher. Must google that. My original idea of switching JAMMA connector between boards is thrown out of the window. The PCB's are way to fragile for me to do that. So some sort of JAMMA switcher it has to be. I found the 100$ 6-1 JAMMA switcher (http://www.jammaboards.com/store/6-in-1-multijamma-switcher-pcb-pcb-6in1switcher.html (http://www.jammaboards.com/store/6-in-1-multijamma-switcher-pcb-pcb-6in1switcher.html)), but really? Then I also have to rotate the monitor automatically. I will not change games THAT often. I will probably do one game at a time till I'm sick of it and then change. And up to now the only thing I had to order and pay for is a JAMMA PSU. I'll try to keep the expenses down on this one, and use many of the left over parts from my other builds. I even have left over plywood for it.
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If I finish this project I will donate this cabinet to the childrens cancer hospital here in Trondheim, Norway. I will also give away unlimited free maintenance. As long as I give away original PCB's it should be ok? I hope?
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If I finish this project I will donate this cabinet to the childrens cancer hospital here in Trondheim, Norway. I will also give away unlimited free maintenance. As long as I give away original PCB's it should be ok? I hope?
If all games are Originals, you should sell the PCBs instead and donate the money. Salamander for instance costs about 2000 SEK. Chuck a 60in1 PCB in there instead.
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Quite warm outside today. 0.2 degrees celsius (that's 32.36 degrees Fahrenheit). It's like tropical in this country. :-) Fortunately it's not that much snow.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-01-24%2014.12.29.jpg)
I took the opportunity to cut the side panels. It just took a couple of hours.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-01-24%2012.45.57.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-01-24%2013.06.11.jpg)
After cutting one side, I made another side panel (a little bigger than the template) screwed them together and routed it.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-01-24%2013.40.48.jpg)
Side panels done:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-01-24%2014.01.14.jpg)
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Nice to see some action again John :cheers:
No P.P. driver bartop at the moment or did you skip it after the great Outrun bartop?
Follow this one again >:D
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Nice to see some action again John :cheers:
No P.P. driver bartop at the moment or did you skip it after the great Outrun bartop?
Follow this one again >:D
If you see this picture:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-01-24%2012.45.57.jpg)
You'll se some spare panels. Those panels are just about what I need to make the PP bartop! :-)
How about you: Any more projects going on?
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I'm currently also redoing the paint job on the front panel of my Fix it Felix. (I was never happy with that paint job). Likewise I'm constantly on the look for a better upper marquee retainer for it. I know it when I find it! :-)
(http://www.379009.net/nintendo-bartop/pics/2015-01-24%2019.46.14.jpg)
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You'll se some spare panels. Those panels are just about what I need to make the PP bartop! :-)
How about you: Any more projects going on?
Great to see it's still alive >:D
I'm very into other projects :banghead: ( painting, decorating and installing kitchen ) :dizzy:
I'm still lurking for new projects to keep the spirit alive :cheers:
But after all the work is done, you will see a new announcement soon :cheers:
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When building the Fix it Felix, I also wanted the Popeye theme. But I couldn't since you already done that. :lol Popeye was one of the first arcades I ever played so there's a lot of memories attached to that game. But now I can make my own Popeye. I have actually aquired a Popeye PCB (ok, it's a bootleg, but nevertheless). And Louis Tully made this sketch for me. I'm optimistic!
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/temp/popeye1.jpg)
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When building the Fix it Felix, I also wanted the Popeye theme. But I couldn't since you already done that. :lol Popeye was one of the first arcades I ever played so there's a lot of memories attached to that game. But now I can make my own Popeye. I have actually aquired a Popeye PCB (ok, it's a bootleg, but nevertheless). And Louis Tully made this sketch for me. I'm optimistic!
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/temp/popeye1.jpg)
That looks VERY nice :applaud:
Louis set a new standard for cabs ... they are beautiful , but I hope that this version cabs will not be the next Weecade :dizzy:
Are you building a man-cave John?
Your having a lot cabs in your basement .. When I see those pictures, I'm a little bit sad that I had to sold all my creations ..
Don't have the room for a man-cave , but I'm still having a dream to build a outrun deluxe sit-down on from scratch :hissy:
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That looks VERY nice :applaud:
Louis set a new standard for cabs ... they are beautiful , but I hope that this version cabs will not be the next Weecade :dizzy:
Are you building a man-cave John?
Your having a lot cabs in your basement .. When I see those pictures, I'm a little bit sad that I had to sold all my creations ..
Don't have the room for a man-cave , but I'm still having a dream to build a outrun deluxe sit-down on from scratch :hissy:
The LT-cabaret is VERY easy to make. I'ts ONLY straight lines and I think it looks very nice! And after all the curves on the OutRun cab, it's nice to have something easier to make. :-)
Well, I have a man-cave that I also share with my teenage kids. But unfortunately I don't have THAT much room.
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What should I do with the feet on this:
Doing it like this requires smaller wheels.
(http://neilyboy.mtco.com/pics/donkeykong/IMG_0543.jpg)
These wheels are big, maybe too big for this cab:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-04%2018.43.22.jpg)
There's a HUGE difference in wheel size!
???
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Skip the wheels.
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Yeah, the Tully really doesn't need wheels. Use sliders if anything.
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Bend with your knees.
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(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-04%2018.43.22.jpg)
How attached are you to that chair in the pic ?? -- ( those wheels look to be about the size needed )
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There WILL be wheels! :lol
That chair I don't care about at all! I actually hate that chair. But I don't want those spinning-around wheels on the cab!
Today I have mounted the battens.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-04%2020.43.25.jpg)
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After cleaning up tonight I took this video of my "man cave". A glimpse of "The Tully" there at the end:
My bartops! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C82zGHNrNUE#ws)
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So today I finally managed to cut many of the back, front and bottom panels. I'm using 15mm plywood. The woodshop has a saw for cutting the plywood sheets (see pic). So I got them to cut the sheet in three parts, 2 parts in 42cm width and the last part then turned out 38 cm. It's very precisely cut. So then my "Tully"'s inner width is 42 cm, the 38 cm spare one is for my Pole Position bartop. Nice planned! :-)
Enough rubbish, here's the pics:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-12%2019.21.52.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-12%2020.15.03.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-12%2020.23.01.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-12%2020.45.09.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-12%2020.53.28.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-12%2020.53.54.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-12%2020.59.48.jpg)
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Today I mounted the wheels and a handle. I'm sorry if I'm being too detailed about this project. I'm a slow builder.
This is the most accurate cab I've ever built. It's the fifth cab I'm building and I'm just starting to get the hang of it.
Here's todays pics:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-13%2015.22.00.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-13%2015.22.52.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-13%2017.13.49.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-13%2018.24.01.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-13%2018.24.12.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-13%2018.24.52.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-13%2018.38.20.jpg)
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Looks nice and clean. Jealous of the panel saw :cheers:
And speaking of "the" Tully, where did all his posts go?
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Looks nice and clean. Jealous of the panel saw :cheers:
I'm not using a saw. I'm only using the router with a copy-bit. I love my router by now. :lol
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This saw! And I love my routers as well.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-12%2019.21.52.jpg)
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Source on that handle? Need something similar for my JAMMA Access Panel. Good job by the way, let me know if you every want to sell that UFO ROBO Dagnar.
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Source on that handle? Need something similar for my JAMMA Access Panel. Good job by the way, let me know if you every want to sell that UFO ROBO Dagnar.
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Accessories-Carrying-Handle-black_719.html (http://www.arcadeshop.de/Accessories-Carrying-Handle-black_719.html)
Edit: Where are you from. I'm located in Norway so if you're from the US, the P&P would cost a fortune!
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Ah yes, I am in the states and on second thought I need something that doesn't show up on the reverse side anyway...
Still... Looking good so far :cheers:
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Ah yes, I am in the states and on second thought I need something that doesn't show up on the reverse side anyway...
I was thinking about the Ufo Robo Dangar...
Anyway, I'm going overseas this summer for a Route66 trip for 3 weeks. Man, I'm looking forward to this!
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Route 66 eh? Let me know if you're coming through Tulsa and need any local recommendations for food/accommodations or such.
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Cool, lots of fun on Route 66, be sure to hit up one of these, I stayed in this one in Holbrook Arizona a few years back.:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_3XQXnRmyv6c/TbuDCARMmwI/AAAAAAAAALs/5avzA9JYGNY/s640/wigwam.jpg)
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Speaking of: Is there any arcade-related sites to visit on the route?
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Today I mounted the wheels and a handle. I'm sorry if I'm being too detailed about this project. I'm a slow builder.
This is the most accurate cab I've ever built. It's the fifth cab I'm building and I'm just starting to get the hang of it.
Don't apologise for the detail, I'm building a "Tully" as well, and you are saving me a ton of rework :laugh: - I wasn't planning on using battens - this build has changed my approach.
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This saw! And I love my routers as well.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-12%2019.21.52.jpg)
The logo/typeface on that panel saw reminds me of this...
(http://www.angelfire.com/games/paintbrawlers/images/piranha.gif)
The old PMI Piranha logo from the early 2000's. I know, Serif fonts look like many other serif fonts... but thats just uncanny.
I'm planning a "Tully" style Nintendo cabaret, a "widebody" variant. This build will come in handy for me later this/next year.
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Cool, lots of fun on Route 66, be sure to hit up one of these, I stayed in this one in Holbrook Arizona a few years back.:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_3XQXnRmyv6c/TbuDCARMmwI/AAAAAAAAALs/5avzA9JYGNY/s640/wigwam.jpg)
A few? Judging by those cars, it was 60 or 70!
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So today I made the Nintendo-style speaker grill, and I also did the marquee slot. This Nintendo-style grill is about 25% smaller than the original one. The original speaker-grill can be found at jakobud (http://jakobud.com/plan.php?id=7 (http://jakobud.com/plan.php?id=7)). Here is how you can do this without a CNC machine, using only a router and some ingenuity! DO A TEST RUN ON SOME SCRAP PIECE OF PLYWOOD!!!
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-15%2014.30.21.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-15%2014.15.56.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-15%2014.17.05.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-15%2014.22.05.jpg)
The finished result. This is the back side.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-15%2014.35.19.jpg)
The finished result front:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-15%2015.25.28.jpg)
And this is the router bit. It's 6 mm straight bit.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-15%2015.29.55.jpg)
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So today I finished the marquee area, made the hole for the power intake and started the assembly. Battens and panels are being glued and screwed together. I also rounded the bottom corners of the side panels. I did that by using an empty roll of tape and a router and then made a template. The template was then screwed on the side panels and the panels were routed. I have also received the speaker. This fits perfect over the speaker grill. Well, here's the pics.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-20%2019.19.08.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-20%2019.19.16.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-21%2013.22.58.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-21%2013.34.12.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-21%2017.10.12.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-21%2017.10.21.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-21%2017.25.47.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-21%2019.37.13.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-21%2020.36.03.jpg)
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Today I made the monitor "frame". And tested it with the monitor mounted both vertical and horizontal. The Lexan bezel will come a few cm higher than the monitor.
And now a question for you guys: What can I make the bezel around the monitor from? Cardboard? Foam? Do I need a bezel there at all? Any pictures out there from somebody who has done it before?
Well, here's today's pics:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-24%2020.07.50.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-24%2020.09.47.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-02-24%2020.10.13.jpg)
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Dang dats purty. How do you plan on rotating your monitor?
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Dang dats purty. How do you plan on rotating your monitor?
Actually I don't. I just wanted the possibility to do that just in case. :lol
If it's gonna be rotated it's has to be done manually. But that's ok.
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And now a question for you guys: What can I make the bezel around the monitor from? Cardboard? Foam? Do I need a bezel there at all? Any pictures out there from somebody who has done it before?
Will you paint the board the monitor is mounted to?
You'll want something to distract from the monitor and hide its mounting. Search Read about the $2 bezel. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,17175.0.html) Sometimes that is also referred to a monitor shroud I think; at least Star Wars has a cardboard monitor shroud and a crazy plastic dimensional bezel. What its call isn't as important as covering up the monitor.
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Will you paint the board the monitor is mounted to?
You'll want something to distract from the monitor and hide its mounting. Search Read about the $2 bezel. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,17175.0.html) Sometimes that is also referred to a monitor shroud I think; at least Star Wars has a cardboard monitor and a crazy plastic dimensional bezel. What its call isn't as important as covering up the monitor.
Thank you! That was exactly what I was looking for. Painting of monitor board depends on whether I'm able to hide it using a $2 bezel! Thanks! :applaud: :notworthy:
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Its amazing what they used to use. I know Track and Field had one and I needed to make one for my FFJR cab that was also in the DK cabs. Its amazing what a $7 piece of mat board can do for you.
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After shoveling the snow yesterday, I cut the slots for the T-molding in my Tully. (Seriously, it has never been this little snow as far as I can remember). And now I've started priming the cab. Plan is to paint the underside, mount the wheels and then do the rest of the priming/painting. As usual the first stroke of primer revealed a lot of imperfections so there will be a lot of sanding, filling, sanding, filling...
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-06%2016.09.32.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-06%2019.29.39.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-06%2023.32.43.jpg)
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John,
...your pictures crash my iPad :'(
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John,
...your pictures crash my iPad :'(
Pfft... Apple...
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John,
...your pictures crash my iPad :'(
Pfft... Apple...
But... you took them with an iPhone.
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But... you took them with an iPhone.
Ohh... bummer! :lol
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My God this is a tedious and boring job! :banghead:
But it's slowly getting there.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-08%2015.01.54.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-08%2015.35.38.jpg)
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My God this is a tedious and boring job! :banghead:
But it's slowly getting there.
<Insert Joke About Sister/Wife/Mother Here>
;D
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Painting the back, inside, and bottom black. Rest will be Nintendo blue. I also paint the inside of the speaker grill black. I don't know why. Maybe there's a name for that disease. :dunno
About the side panels. I can't get them as smooth as I want them to be. The plywood itself won't let me. So I say: To hell with it! It's good enough. :lol
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-10%2023.18.37.jpg)
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I just cut the wood on mine today.
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I just cut the wood on mine today.
(http://new2.fjcdn.com/comments/5353511+_83bce35d9b512464ce7c2b179c1ae5ef.jpg)
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Proof.
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Psssssh. Needs its own thread.
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Psssssh. Needs its own thread.
Threads are for suckas.
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About the side panels. I can't get them as smooth as I want them to be. The plywood itself won't let me. So I say: To hell with it! It's good enough. :lol
What about just covering the sides with Vinyl vs trying to get smooth finish with paint ? (has worked for me) - liking your progress and detail (and like Yotsuya, I started cutting out my panels for my 'Tully' on the weekend)
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Psssssh. Needs its own thread.
Threads are for suckas.
Sucka. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,143317.0.html)
Sucka. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,140635.0.html)
Sucka. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,139566.0.html)
Sucka. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134993.0.html)
Sucka. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137636.0.html)
What I'm getting at is I wanna see a build thread for your 'Tully'...
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About the side panels. I can't get them as smooth as I want them to be. The plywood itself won't let me. So I say: To hell with it! It's good enough. :lol
What about just covering the sides with Vinyl vs trying to get smooth finish with paint ? (has worked for me) - liking your progress and detail (and like Yotsuya, I started cutting out my panels for my 'Tully' on the weekend)
+1 on the vinyl. But I can understand the frustration with sanding and painting plywood. Seriously tedious at the best of times. :)
Psssssh. Needs its own thread.
Also agree! Yots' deserves to have one of his build threads heckled for once. ;)
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Oh YES, And I know just the girl for the job...Now just need to set the trap. :applaud:
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My friends, and they know who they are, get to see my build pictures. And I really enjoyed playing with this shape. I just wish Louis was still alive to see this progress that everyone is making.
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I forgot to mount the top panel! :dizzy: Anyway, I did that tonight. In front of the top panel I've routed a slot for T-molding. The panel is fastened with quite long srews through the side panel. Of course I predrilled the holes for the screws to avoid fu**ing it up more than necessary. Inside I have filled with a little acrylic. And yes, the monitor can still be mounted from the top.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-11%2022.53.12.jpg)
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I just wish Louis was still alive to see this progress that everyone is making.
He's not dead I hope.
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Not physically dead, no.
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Johnrt, I used pocket holes to fasten everything together. I was going to use dowels for the top, but just went with pocket holes on the bottom of it and fastened it that way. You can't see the holes unless you stoop to look for them.
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Johnrt, I used pocket holes to fasten everything together. I was going to use dowels for the top, but just went with pocket holes on the bottom of it and fastened it that way. You can't see the holes unless you stoop to look for them.
You can't see my holes either. The screws are countersunk and then filled. Actually I fill them at least twice because the filling tend to sink a little.
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Phrasing.
Boom.
I was gonna use wooden doweling for my top panel, an excuse to use the set of dowel & tenon centers i bought at Lee Valley Tools. Pocket holes are a great idea tho. Hmmm. I'm starting to be convinced that i can pull off a "wide body" version of this cab with a horizontal 19" that takes standard Nintendo Vs CP's.
LT's gonna come back one day and find a whole series of cabs in his namesake. haha. :D
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Well, you can't see my holes either, but that's because I like the look of exposed fastners, especially the square drive pocket screw heads.
I vote for a stickied thread with all the Tully's in one spot.. for that matter I vote for a Vigolix series thread as well. No on the Weecade collection thread however.
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Weecade? What's a weecade? ???
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Weecade? What's a weecade? ???
A waste of time and materials....A Urkelcade on the other hand....
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Weecade? What's a weecade? ???
A waste of time and materials....A Urkelcade on the other hand....
Well, that's because it has been done a billion times. Hopefully the "Tully" will not suffer a similar fate.
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I was gonna use wooden doweling for my top panel, an excuse to use the set of dowel & tenon centers i bought at Lee Valley Tools. Pocket holes are a great idea tho.
I'm building using dowels as well (entire build) - thought it would save time on sanding / painting, but realising its just traded off one type of effort for another (if anything seems to be taking longer).
...Hmmm. I'm starting to be convinced that i can pull off a "wide body" version of this cab with a horizontal 19" that takes standard Nintendo Vs CP's.
LT's gonna come back one day and find a whole series of cabs in his namesake. haha. :D
I agree, LT has inspire a whole range of new cab builds - I'm doing a wide as well (600mm) horizontal cab (dual player / 19" wide screen) to go with the 19" vertical I'm working on now - both my versions have storage under cab (one for a hidden beer fridge ;D).
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FINALLY! First coat of paint applied! :cheers:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-15%2015.46.33.jpg)
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(http://penguinssauce.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/27968-George-Takei-Oh-My-gif-9Gcf.gif)
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I'm almost done painting it! I just need to paint the inner rim on the front black with a very fine brush.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-16%2022.28.37.jpg)
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pfffft, Don't be a ---Bad words, bad words, whatcha gonna do? Whatcha gonna do when saint censors you?---, mask that ---smurfette--- off with some painters tape and hit it with an automotive sprayer.
:cheers:
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pfffft, Don't be a ---Bad words, bad words, whatcha gonna do? Whatcha gonna do when saint censors you?---, mask that ---smurfette--- off with some painters tape and hit it with an automotive sprayer.
:cheers:
Even a can of spray paint can work if you use it properly.
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I'm gonna fix this manually with a tiny paint brush.
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If it was a real "Tully" copy you'd use a ball point pen.
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How are you doing the control panel? Where does it fit?
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How are you doing the control panel? Where does it fit?
The control panel is to be fitted inside the cab, at the bottom...
No seriously: I have a plan. I'll show you later.
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If it was a real "Tully" copy you'd use a ball point pen.
Oh Snap!!
Wait, am I missing something here... Why no coin door? :(
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Wait, am I missing something here... Why no coin door? :(
(http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q57/phetishboy/DKJr%20Restoration/DSC01674.jpg)
Yeah! Why you no coin door?
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MAN! What a nice cab! Yours?
(http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q57/phetishboy/DKJr%20Restoration/DSC01674.jpg)
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It belongs to a KLOV'er, (Phetishboy i think). I mistook it for a 2014 completed cab and nominated it for the 2014 UCA haha. It's brilliant.
I want. :applaud:
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Seriously John, What stops you from cutting a hole for the coin door, then cutting a new set of speaker slots to the right of it?
....I may know where you could get a door... On that side of the pond too.
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MAN! What a nice cab! Yours?
(http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q57/phetishboy/DKJr%20Restoration/DSC01674.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/xaQBppn.gif)
Yeah. Yeah it's mine.
;D
It's not but it is on my list for things I want to build next and after seeing yours I might just do eet.
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Seriously John, What stops you from cutting a hole for the coin door, then cutting a new set of speaker slots to the right of it?
....I may know where you could get a door... On that side of the pond too.
Coin doors are for those with... coins... Well, I thought about it initially, but they are so expensive. And why do I need one? Alright I can understand the esthetics, but other than that? And normally I build bartops where the coin doors are not an option. :lol
Ok, I could have mounted a square coin-button on the front, but where would that fit?
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Your want two. Under the marquee, halfway to the grill. ⅓ of the way from each side.
Or just blow out the front for a door :P
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Your want two. Under the marquee, halfway to the grill. ⅓ of the way from each side.
Or just blow out the front for a door :P
Yeah, I know what you mean. Although it should have been done prior to painting the damn thing! :banghead:
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No, use a Forstner bit. Mark it off with a pencil, go slow, and when the point of the bit breaks through use it as a pilot to go in from the other side of the panel to eliminate blowout in the wood.
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I actually do possess two of these buttons. Here's a mockup:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-18%2021.31.03.jpg)
Another option is to mount one in the marquee. I don't think that has been done before:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-18%2021.32.09.jpg)
And in other news: The inner rim is painted with a tiny brush:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-18%2021.05.02.jpg)
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Well John since you are building a full cab you need a full coin door. I would rather see no buttons as opposed to putting GGG's buttons on that gorgeous cab. Or just wait and save up for it and put it in later.
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Well John since you are building a full cab you need a full coin door. I would rather see no buttons as opposed to putting GGG's buttons on that gorgeous cab. Or just wait and save up for it and put it in later.
You've probably right you know... Another option is to skip the whole coin-button/door and install one of these:
http://www.onecircuit.com/node/41 (http://www.onecircuit.com/node/41)
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You know, know that I see the buttons there, it looks like a face. :(
Honestly, I really think it's a coin door thing. Which isn't a bad thing, at all. If you want to do a door, I'd say get a Nintendo door and a couple faceplates from the AS740 mechs then do the button holder mod to them. It will save you money from buying mechs and the return buttons become cool coin up switches.
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Like this:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135095.msg1423439.html#msg1423439 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135095.msg1423439.html#msg1423439)
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Like this:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135095.msg1423439.html#msg1423439 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135095.msg1423439.html#msg1423439)
That's quite clever! :cheers:
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I just had to get out in the shed, cause I knew I had something lying there:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-18%2023.00.38.jpg)
And I know it's more out there.
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Like this:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135095.msg1423439.html#msg1423439 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135095.msg1423439.html#msg1423439)
That's quite clever! :cheers:
Yeah. I'm not that smart. That was good work stolen from chopperthedog's DK build.
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Still, I remeber seeing it from your thread first. Actually come to think of it it don't think I even read his. Hmmm
At any rate it's briliant if you just want a basic Nintendo door look without the added cost of mechs or "complexity" or quarters/tokens.
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I made the top bezel today and also a couple of control panel templates. Also tested the bezel artwork. I feel good about this. Looking forward to get it done.
About the bezel/CP: I'm not sure I'm gonna use ONE plexi that covers both the bezel and the CP or make separate plexi's for them. With separate plexi overlay I can change the CP individually, although I have to figure out some way to make the joint between CP and bezel look good.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-21%2014.57.45.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-21%2014.58.07.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-21%2015.25.34.jpg)
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Jennifer in a "Tully" build, OMG, Wait as I find my big sunglasses.... 8) 8) , I would most definitely use the 2 plexys, The bezel doesn't need to be exposed to the strain of gameplay (IMO)....BTW, I was so never here.
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This is looking great, really enjoying following this build :cheers:
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Today I fixed one of my old coin acceptor units. Maybe this could be an idea?
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-30%2021.21.51.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-30%2021.22.24.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-03-30%2021.23.09.jpg)
And here's the thing in action:
Does anyone of you know if it's possible to reprogram this to accept other coins?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=so2zM-YiFcM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=so2zM-YiFcM#ws)
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Since I'll be using JAMMA boards that sometimes require more than 1 button, I redesigned the Popeye CPO to fit 2 buttons.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/the_tully_cp_v1.png)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-04-12%2017.08.40.jpg)
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Maybe label them "A" and "B"?
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Maybe label them "A" and "B"?
Like this perhaps. I also used the Pretendo font for Player1/2 and A/B.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/the_tully_cp_v2.png)
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Yep! Much better.
I would have gone the same font as "Controller", but that's just me.
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Yep! Much better.
I would have gone the same font as "Controller", but that's just me.
Unfortunately I couldn't match that font...
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Yep! Much better.
I would have gone the same font as "Controller", but that's just me.
Unfortunately I couldn't match that font...
Controller font is " Mangal " Bold and stretch up to 125 or 150 % height :cheers:
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Controller font is " Mangal " Bold and stretch up to 125 or 150 % height :cheers:
Thanks!!! :cheers:
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Yep! Much better.
I would have gone the same font as "Controller", but that's just me.
Unfortunately I couldn't match that font...
Controller font is " Mangal " Bold and stretch up to 125 or 150 % height :cheers:
I'v been using Futura Condensed Medium.
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Also this project has been on hold lately due to work-related stuff. But I have applied the T-molding and worked a little on the CP:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-05-01%2022.13.19.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-05-01%2022.13.32.jpg)
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I had fun building my Tully. Good to see you still working on it.
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Right now I'm debating on MAME'ing it with a CRT computer monitor, or making it a pure JAMMA cab with an old-school arcade monitor.
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Right now I'm debating on MAME'ing it with a CRT computer monitor, or making it a pure JAMMA cab with an old-school arcade monitor.
If I do a Q*Bert Tully, I'm going to go Arcade CRT with a JROK board.
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Right now I'm debating on MAME'ing it with a CRT computer monitor, or making it a pure JAMMA cab with an old-school arcade monitor.
I vote JAMMA cab :D
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A little update:
- Made a shelf for the monitor chassis.
- Finsihed up the marquee area.
Now I'm gonna make a retractable shelf for the JAMMA board making it easy to swap them.
And our cat "Busti" was 10 years old yesterday! (in cat years that's 57)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-05-18%2022.04.38.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-05-18%2022.05.07.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-05-18%2022.05.27.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/P5070011.JPG)
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Can somebody give me the retard-award of the year, please? :badmood: :banghead: :cry: :hissy: :angry:
I've been so frustrated of the monitor chassis I've fixed. I had to replace all caps and a driver transformer. I was NOT able to adjust it to anything decent. It looked like crap! All the horizontal lines just disappeared and the colors looked like ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. I have actually in frustration repaired yet another chassis with the same results! Here's the best I could do:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-09%2020.52.41.jpg)
Tonight I went down the basement and connected a wire from the JAMMA boards ground to the monitor chassis ground:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-09%2021.04.04.jpg)
And here's the result:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-09%2020.58.48.jpg)
I'm using Arkanoid - Revenge of DOH in Test mode to generate the pattern.
The monitor is now perfect! I have some minor adjustments, aspecially on the RGB cutoff, and some minor convergence. I'm SUPER happy right now, but MAN! :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: And as a bonus I now have two working arcade monitors!
These pictures really doesn't give the monitor justice. It's way better than I was hoping for!
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-09%2021.00.32.jpg)
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When in doubt, Ground it out. ;D
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I have started on putting things together. I have prepared a transformer for the monitor, mounted it in the bottom of the cab together with the JAMMA PSU and the LED marquee dimmer. BTW: I've added rubber feet between the transformer and the bottom to prevent vibration.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-11%2021.12.13.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-11%2022.59.21.jpg)
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you put ---smurfing--- cable channels in to hide your wires?! How the hell am i going to compete with that?! :laugh:
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you put ---smurfing--- cable channels in to hide your wires?! How the hell am i going to compete with that?! :laugh:
Put in channel cables yourself? :dunno
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No. :P
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Hey John, are you replacing that red ball top with a proper black one or leaving it red?
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not for nothing, but if your going to go full jamma, I'd add a 3rd button.
top notch work as always, I wish my first 5 builds were even in the same ballpark as yours.
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Hey John, are you replacing that red ball top with a proper black one or leaving it red?
Yes I am. And I've also decided to drop the Popeye theme and go for a more generic one. The bezel artwork needs to be square because the monitor can be (manually) rotated. I've also started on the CP for Arkanoid.
And tonight: I'm off to a concert with Mark Knopfler!
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Hey John, are you replacing that red ball top with a proper black one or leaving it red?
Yes I am. And I've also decided to drop the Popeye theme and go for a more generic one. The bezel artwork needs to be square because the monitor can be (manually) rotated. I've also started on the CP for Arkanoid.
And tonight: I'm off to a concert with Mark Knopfler!
Is Mark picking you up? Tell him I said "Hi" and that "Sultans of Swing" is my favorite Dire Straits song. >:D
While I liked the Popeye theme, I don't blame your decision-making process. Looks good. Planning on building my second Tully next month.
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First video of the project. Right now I'm waiting for molex crimp connectors to finish up the wiring of the cab.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_OENahrbfw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_OENahrbfw)
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While waiting for parts, I have "designed" a custom CPO for Arkanoid 2:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/arkanoid_cp.png)
Now I need a generic 1- and 2-player CP.
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Maybe something thats a throwback to the Nintendo Vs. System CP's? or the Red Tent CP?
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The first control panel is done (except the artwork of course). It took a couple of hours to make this. A lot of templating for the router to fit the spinner. I also routed the polycarbonate.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-21%2022.27.39.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-21%2022.27.08.jpg)
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I have finished wiring the cab. And even finished wiring the Arkanoid CP. All I need now is a insert coin solution. I'm thinking about having a button (or two) on the bezel. Time will show. Today I've been playing Arkanoid - Revenge of DOH on original hardware for the first time... ever I think. I've been trying this game on my OutRun bartop with the TurboTwist spinner, but I have to say: the original spinner is infinitely better. For the first time I'm on the Top5-list. With MAME I've never even passed 10000 points. (Too bad the original board doesn't save the high score).
I also need some generic artwork (a generic 1 and 2-player CP, bezel and sideart). I'm wide open for suggestions. I really like this cab, so maybe a Louis Tully tribute? ;D
And here's today's pics:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-30%2019.53.10.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-30%2019.53.32.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-30%2020.17.08.jpg)
Pretty tidy wiring. I'm quite happy with that.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-30%2020.17.20.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-30%2020.17.24.jpg)
I'm using Molex connectors for easy CP swapping. Here's the Arkanoid CP.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-30%2020.18.17.jpg)
And here's the Molex connectors underneath the CP
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-30%2020.18.55.jpg)
I have a load of molex connectors, wires and JAMMA connectors.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-30%2020.22.54.jpg)
After just a few games I reached the Top5 list for the first time EVER!
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-06-30%2019.51.37.jpg)
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This game (Arkanoid 2) is frustratingly hard. 82750 is my best score yet.
The build itself is on temporarily hold for the vacation. Summer in Norway has been horrendous. Right now we have 11 degrees celsius and rain. And it's been like this for weeks! We've had about 1 and a half decent summerday until now. :badmood: :badmood: :badmood:
Well, ---fudgesicle--- it! :angry:
Wednesday we're travelling to the land of opportunity. :droid Looking forward to three weeks on Route 66. :cheers:
Have a nice summer everyone!
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-07-10%2019.07.17.jpg)
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In case you were wondering: I'm still working on this cab and now only the artwork and a back panel is missing actually.
I also bought myself a PROM burner and eraser and have made myself a high score save kit for my Arkanoid 2 PCB. It works like a charm!
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-09-22%2023.32.03.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-09-22%2023.24.11.jpg)
And I'm still playing this game, but it's hard as hell! My high score is 97490. And now it's a little funnier to play it as the high scores are being saved.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-09-22%2023.30.35.jpg)
And I have finished a 1-player CP with two buttons (I don't have PCB's that requires more buttons than that):
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-09-22%2023.27.16.jpg)
CP's are interchangeable. They connects to the cab with 12 and 9-pin MOLEX connectors. The 9-pin connector are for player 2 controls only.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-09-22%2023.26.05.jpg)
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Nice!
Do you happen to have the plans available somewhere? I can't seem to find them.
Thanks in advance!
D
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Nice!
Do you happen to have the plans available somewhere? I can't seem to find them.
This is what I got from Louis Tully:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/AsteroidsDeluxepanels.png)
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^^^ These work great. Louis sent me them too, and I used them on a jukebox cabaret. Nice thing is you can pretty much cut a 4'x8' in half for easy transportation and not affect what you need. :cheers:
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Nice!
Do you happen to have the plans available somewhere? I can't seem to find them.
This is what I got from Louis Tully:
Pretty much the same I had though I had kind of flattened the perspective
^^^ These work great. Louis sent me them too, and I used them on a jukebox cabaret. Nice thing is you can pretty much cut a 4'x8' in half for easy transportation and not affect what you need. :cheers:
OR have the shop cut 2 22" and 2 18" and 1 10" sections and you have both sides and the inner panels all cut to the correct width so the rest of the cutting is easy !!
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hmmm, so where exactly is the point of the side piecess, missing one measurement unless I'm blind.
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hmmm, so where exactly is the point of the side pieces, missing one measurement unless I'm blind.
IIRC it was 10.5" for the back measurement ( from back edge 44.5" measure to top of 48" panel) --- It is listed in one of the build threads I'll see if I can find it and verify !!
Found it -- was the Depleted Uranium Build posts 6 and 8 ( http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,142577.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,142577.0.html) ) and my math gave approx 10" but IIRC Louis later replied his was approx 10.5" but that 10" would work - and the top plate is 10" so if you want a small lip in the front you'll want to use 10.5" for that top side cut so it has the 1/2" lip above the 10" top panel in the front of the setup !
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Thanks!
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I'm currently sanding and filling the Nintendo cab. During breaks I play on my "Tullly". Tonight I set a new record on Arkanoid - Revenge of DoH. For information: I'm not cheating. All DIP switches are set to default.
And btw: This cab is as good as finished. It just needs some artwork. I'm planning on ordering that together with the art for my Nintendo cab.
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-10-20%2020.42.40.jpg)
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Today I received some credit buttons from a french dealer (http://www.joystick-arcade.com/gb/20-boutons-monnayeur-factice-simulation-monnayeur (http://www.joystick-arcade.com/gb/20-boutons-monnayeur-factice-simulation-monnayeur)). These seems to be in good quality. They are lit, although with an old fasion 12V lightbulb. However I had some LED replacements I ordered earlier this year for the dashboard on my motorcycle. These fits in these buttons and are 12V also. I also got one button for free since I was their first norwegian customer! :lol
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-10-28%2020.21.07.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-10-28%2020.21.36.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-10-28%2020.22.01.jpg)
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-10-28%2021.25.20.jpg)
In photoshop I'm playing around trying to find the most optimal place for these buttons. What do you guys think, like this?
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-10-28%2021.26.05-1.jpg)
Or like this?
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-10-28%2021.26.05-2.jpg)
Or like this:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-10-28%2021.26.05-4.jpg)
Or maybe like this:
(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-10-28%2021.26.05-3.jpg)
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From an aesthetic point of view, I'd say the last one. However, that probably is the worst one for functionality, as the buttons are too far down. A compromise would be the first one.
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From an aesthetic point of view, I'd say the last one. However, that probably is the worst one for functionality, as the buttons are too far down. A compromise would be the first one.
I kind of agree. However, on the Nintendo cab the coin slot is also way down there.
If someone has another suggestion, the photoshop file is available here:
http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/photoshop/tully_creditbutton.zip (http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/photoshop/tully_creditbutton.zip)
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(http://www.379009.net/jamma-cab/pics/2015-10-28%2021.26.05-1.jpg)
:o
I see faces in everything :( It's a sickness, really.
Edit: to contribute, I agree with what's been stated above: I like the inline look, but functionally, not sure how annoying that might be. Although it would certainly be an incentive not to die! ("Well, I was going to add another credit, but the button is all the way down there....") ;-)
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Here are a couple suggestions:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=142992.0;attach=338273)
Not everything needs to be symmetrical, and having them closer to the marquee within better reach would be nice. I wouldn't go any lower than what you'd see on an Asteroids Cabaret (http://www.ukvac.com/forum/uploads/665/CIMG0020.jpg).
A has them on the right side, but it could be on the left side too.
B is for the symmetrical aspect, if you're set on keeping things that way. It's not my first choice, but I figured to include it as another option to consider. Keeps P1 Coin and P2 Coin separate though... but personally I don't really like it.
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.
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Hands down Opt's Option "A"
Here are a couple suggestions:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=142992.0;attach=338273)
Not everything needs to be symmetrical, and having them closer to the marquee within better reach would be nice. I wouldn't go any lower than what you'd see on an Asteroids Cabaret (http://www.ukvac.com/forum/uploads/665/CIMG0020.jpg).
A has them on the right side, but it could be on the left side too.
B is for the symmetrical aspect, if you're set on keeping things that way. It's not my first choice, but I figured to include it as another option to consider. Keeps P1 Coin and P2 Coin separate though... but personally I don't really like it.
Ditto.
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Second thirded
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Chance is right, by making the rejects symmetrical you got yourself a Cylon or a gas mask wearing lemur.
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Edit: to contribute, I agree with what's been stated above: I like the inline look, but functionally, not sure how annoying that might be. Although it would certainly be an incentive not to die! ("Well, I was going to add another credit, but the button is all the way down there....") ;-)
You can use your knee! :lol
And I agree about that speaker grill being a little misplaced. But it's too late to do anything about that now. The front is actually better looking WITHOUT credit buttons. Maybe I should place the credit buttons on the bezel instead?
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I think the coin buttons need a plate behind them.
Either metal or ABS plastic.
If it were me, I'd make a fake coin door where the speaker hole currently is and then mount the speaker elsewhere.
I'd do small metal plates on top a large black plate to mimic the original donkey kong coin door style.
It doesn't have to be a exact replica. I think your buttons mounted on top of metal rectangles mounted on top of a black square would look good.
EDIT: check out metal access panels at your local hardware store. They aren't that expensive and would make a convincing coin door that actually opens.
(http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=imgres&cd=&ved=0CAYQjBwwAGoVChMIzsCq0e3nyAIVgT4-Ch1RJQhy&url=http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_CXccc8RIW9I%2FSo2iHckCHFI%2FAAAAAAAAB7g%2FN48p-2ERNh8%2Fs400%2FCoin%2BDoor%2B12.jpg&psig=AFQjCNGhZH9rmQKSCHzOgJCt9gb2xcGRbA&ust=1446214138875151)
Here is a fake 1-slot setup I made.
The coin return is actually a gutted square button with the top lens painted black and glued in backwards.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=166565;image)
Not perfect, but my whole shtick with that cab was using what I had laying around and not spending any money.
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I decided to ditch the coin buttons and go for the CoinUP (http://www.onecircuit.com/node/41). I just want to be done with this cab, so I can play it!
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...you've been watching John's videos, haven't you :P
Yes, but I knew about that one anyway. :-)
I just got an answer from Adam confirming he'll send me a couple of those. (He didn't normally ship internationally)
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Totally forgot about those. Thanks for posting this.