A "Tully"-copy - Current status: Credit button question

[johnrt]

I have 11 JAMMA/non-JAMMA PCB's for cabinets named KENNY's. Most of them works! Some needs some maintenance. The KENNY cabinet looks like this and have front panels with PCB and control panel that are interchangeable. The monitor can be mounted both vertical and horizontal. A quite genious solution actually.






The cabinets I possess are worn out and beyond repair. They are also wall-mounted and therefore quite limited when it comes to placement. I have 3 (or maybe 4) 13" monitors from that cabs (CRT) that I can use. I have already cap-kit'ed one of them.

The interchangeable front panels look like this (Remember I have 11 of these). This is UFO ROBO DANGAR btw. The control panels are different from each game.




I want to make a cab based on LT's Asteroids Deluxe Cabaret:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,141486.0.html

These are the PCB's I've got:
1. Arkanoid - Revenge of DOH - Taito - 1987 - Vertical
2. Bloody Wolf - Nihon Bussan - 1988 - Horizontal
3. Ufo Robo Dangar - Nichibutsu - 1985 - Vertical
4. Shinobi - Sega - 1987 - Horizontal
5. Dragon Breed - Irem - 1989 - Horizontal
6. Chuka Taisen - Taito - 1988 - Horizontal
7. Salamander - Konami - 1986 - Horizontal
8. Dark Seal - Nihon Bussan - 1990 - Horizontal
9. Final Round - Konami - 1988 - Horizontal
10. The Next Space - SNK - 1989 - Vertical
11. Rabbit Punch - V-System - 1987 - Horizontal

Most of them are horizontal. There are however 3 verticals.

How can I make ONE cabinet and still make it quite easy to change PCB? I will have to make a CP for each one of them. The monitor has to be easily rotated. Manually. Can all PCB's be mounted on separate shelves, so I just have to switch JAMMA-connector to change game?

Or do you guys have a better idea? I believe LT's cabaret is quite easy to make, and it also looks damn good.

[emphatic]

I would just fix one of the Kenny's cabinet instead, as it's

a: Quite easy to switch games and the controls will be perfect for them immediately
b: Easy to rotate the monitor (or so I've heard, these were very very common here in Sweden in the 80's and 90's).
c: Doesn't take up much space, so good for keeping your spouse happy

You can mount Japanese joysticks in these panels with a small modification to the mounting plate if your current sticks suck, or just clean the original ones, lube 'em and fit new micro switches. The buttons in these panels does suck a bit (they squeak, right?), but adding other buttons would be possible if you have access to a nice drill. All games except UFO Dangar (and Wonder Boy if you forgot to list it, as it's pictured in the cabinet?) are JAMMA (though Arkanoid II uses a spinner, so JAMMA+?).

[johnrt]

I would just fix one of the Kenny's cabinet instead, as it's

a: Quite easy to switch games and the controls will be perfect for them immediately
b: Easy to rotate the monitor (or so I've heard, these were very very common here in Sweden in the 80's and 90's).
c: Doesn't take up much space, so good for keeping your spouse happy

You can mount Japanese joysticks in these panels with a small modification to the mounting plate if your current sticks suck, or just clean the original ones, lube 'em and fit new micro switches. The buttons in these panels does suck a bit (they squeak, right?), but adding other buttons would be possible if you have access to a nice drill. All games except UFO Dangar (and Wonder Boy if you forgot to list it, as it's pictured in the cabinet?) are JAMMA (though Arkanoid II uses a spinner, so JAMMA+?).

The first pics are not from my cabs, so I don't have Wonder Boy. (I can't find my own pics of them that I took this summer)

I believe they were quite common here in Norway too, but my cabs are WAY too worn to even THINK about restoring it. And whether you mount the cab on the wall, or place it next to it, it doesn't matter. I also hate those KENNY's cabs a little.    And yes, the buttons sucks! The joysticks are leaf switch joysticks and just needs some lube.

I will find a way to easily connect the boards anyhow. I'm quite familar with electronics.

[johnrt]

This is Revenge of DOH, a JAMMA board definately: (It's VERY dusty, as it hasn't been cleaned yet)




The spinner also makes a squeeky noise so it has to be changed or lubed.

[emphatic]

Well, if you hate 'em, I understand you'd want something different.

You could mount all of your PCBs, one by one on a piece of wood (10 mm MDF or plywood) with the same size (as big as your largest PCB) with the JAMMA connector pointing the same way. That way, the JAMMA connector for your harness in the cab you're building will be easy to connect to them when you wanna switch games.

I've attached a small sketch of how I would build it.

Make a round opening for the monitor's neck and mount the chassis below. Put four screws for the monitor to rest on and just loosen the bolts when you need to rotate the screen, as the round hole is larger than the tube's neck. It's easy to manually rotate a 20" monitor. If you go bigger, you should try to use a round frame attached to the tube with wheels so your can turn it without physically having to lift it up.

Make a large door for access to lift out the PCBs. Make a simple "shelf" for the wooden board, and one more above so the board is held in place top and bottom. Have the JAMMA harness come up from the compartment below. This door also gives you access to the monitor controls.

The bottom door gives you access to the +5V on the PSU, as you will need to check that the PCB used doesn't get too much +5V, or the board might die.

[emphatic]

Here's a picture of the service space of my Japanese EGRET II cabinet. The PCB board is to the left.



I've attached a plastic PCB holder to it, so I won't need to have a big board for each of my PCBs. But with a smaller collection of games, this helps when handling these old, often fragile games.

[johnrt]

Well, if you hate 'em, I understand you'd want something different.

You could mount all of your PCBs, one by one on a piece of wood (10 mm MDF or plywood) with the same size (as big as your largest PCB) with the JAMMA connector pointing the same way. That way, the JAMMA connector for your harness in the cab you're building will be easy to connect to them when you wanna switch games.

I've attached a small sketch of how I would build it.

Make a round opening for the monitor's neck and mount the chassis below. Put four screws for the monitor to rest on and just loosen the bolts when you need to rotate the screen, as the round hole is larger than the tube's neck. It's easy to manually rotate a 20" monitor. If you go bigger, you should try to use a round frame attached to the tube with wheels so your can turn it without physically having to lift it up.

Make a large door for access to lift out the PCBs. Make a simple "shelf" for the wooden board, and one more above so the board is held in place top and bottom. Have the JAMMA harness come up from the compartment below. This door also gives you access to the monitor controls.

The bottom door gives you access to the +5V on the PSU, as you will need to check that the PCB used doesn't get too much +5V, or the board might die.

Yes, that was something I was thinking about.  I have some 13" CRT's from the KENNY's I've been planning to reuse. One of them is recapped and works great now. Do you think these will be too small?

[emphatic]

Yes, that was something I was thinking about.  I have some 13" CRT's from the KENNY's I've been planning to reuse. One of them is recapped and works great now. Do you think these will be too small?

I suggest you build your cabinet around the size of the screen rather than build it too big, or the small screen will look ridiculous. 

If I had to build a cabinet myself today, I would build a lowboy (search the forum announcements for one) and put a 19-28" CRT TV in it. As long as the TV has RGB scart input, you can hook it up to the JAMMA wiring without much problem. Just get a scart cable and strip one end and hook up the needed RGBS and the +5V(?) that tells the TV to power up and turn on the A/V channel.

Protip:

Find a cheap used TV (like a Sony Trinitron) and Google for "Sony tv hidden service menu" with the model no to see if you get a hit. In the service menu, you are able to change horizontal and vertical size with the remote so you can change it per game or find a "sweet spot" to fit most games if you plan on changing them often. This is the only real disadvantage of using a consumer screen instead of an arcade monitor IMHO.

Of course, using an arcade monitor is easier, but I don't know how common they are in Norway? In Sweden, we have a great arcade community, so finding monitors is still doable without paying too much.

[johnrt]

I suggest you build your cabinet around the size of the screen rather than build it too big, or the small screen will look ridiculous. 

If I had to build a cabinet myself today, I would build a lowboy (search the forum announcements for one) and put a 19-28" CRT TV in it. As long as the TV has RGB scart input, you can hook it up to the JAMMA wiring without much problem. Just get a scart cable and strip one end and hook up the needed RGBS and the +5V(?) that tells the TV to power up and turn on the A/V channel.

Protip:

Find a cheap used TV (like a Sony Trinitron) and Google for "Sony tv hidden service menu" with the model no to see if you get a hit. In the service menu, you are able to change horizontal and vertical size with the remote so you can change it per game or find a "sweet spot" to fit most games if you plan on changing them often. This is the only real disadvantage of using a consumer screen instead of an arcade monitor IMHO.

Of course, using an arcade monitor is easier, but I don't know how common they are in Norway? In Sweden, we have a great arcade community, so finding monitors is still doable without paying too much.

Thanks for the tips! It's close to impossible getting an arcade monitor here in Norway. One have to be lucky finding one at finn.no for example. But Sweden is just a little over an hour driving away (probably not the greatest arcade community at Storlien though) 

One other option is to use a CRT computer monitor. Those are very easy to find! And they're free.

[emphatic]

One other option is to use a CRT computer monitor. Those are very easy to find! And they're free.

Won't work with your JAMMA games though, and they weigh so much more than a TV. Or you could just try to buy a JK cabinet (are you familiar with those in Norway?) and play the games on that. 20", easy to rotate.

[johnrt]

Won't work with your JAMMA games though, and they weigh so much more than a TV. Or you could just try to buy a JK cabinet (are you familiar with those in Norway?) and play the games on that. 20", easy to rotate.

With this it will: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291337633577

No, I've never heard of or seen a JK cab before (I googled it). But I rather build my own cab.
I guess I will have to mock-up the monitor with the cabinet plans to see what works.

[emphatic]

I would take a TV any day over the CGA->VGA. It will add lag for some games (NEO GEO and CPS2 works great though) and some games with odd refresh rates won't work or you'll get tearing. I've used one just like it in one of my projects, and I didn't like it one bit.

[johnrt]

Today I've cleaned and lubed the Taito spinner for Arkanoid 2. The only problem with it was that it was dry. Now it spins again! I took it apart, cleaned every little part, and oiled and greased the moving parts.


I also cleaned a couple of boards: Arkanoid 2 and Ufo Robo Dangar:




I'm looking forward to play some arcade games the way they were intended to be played!

[johnrt]

I have an idea. The inner width of the KENNYS cabinet is 41cm. The inner width of LT's Asteroids Cabaret is 46cm. If i make the cabaret a couple of cm's narrower the original 13" arcade monitor from the KENNYS cab will fit nicely... I think... Then all my problems are solved. No need for acquiring a monitor, and the build will be the cheapest one yet.   

[Louis Tully]

.

[johnrt]

Lefty is 16" wide and the right is 18".    You'll be good to go with that 13" monitor.

PERFECT! Monitor problem: SOLVED!  (As a bonus I have several monitors for reserve if one fail)

[emphatic]

Sounds like a nice plan! Great work on cleaning up the spinner and the boards. Just make sure everything's 100% dry before connecting them to power.

[wp34]

I've never heard of the KENNY cabinet.  Being able to switch panels like that is very unique.   Was this something unique to Europe?

Have you considered using a Jamma switcher?  I was at an arcade recently that had several cabinets set up with 2-1 switchers.  They seemed pretty slick and I believe they make 6-1 switchers as well.

This is an interesting build.   LT's AD was one of my favorite builds from last year.  Can't go wrong with that model.   

[yotsuya]

I've never heard of the KENNY cabinet.  Being able to switch panels like that is very unique.   Was this something unique to Europe?

Have you considered using a Jamma switcher?  I was at an arcade recently that had several cabinets set up with 2-1 switchers.  They seemed pretty slick and I believe they make 6-1 switchers as well.

This is an interesting build.   LT's AD was one of my favorite builds from last year.  Can't go wrong with that model.   

What do you mean? I thought all people were building here were monster cabs with 2 ton frankenpanels??? 

[wp34]

I've never heard of the KENNY cabinet.  Being able to switch panels like that is very unique.   Was this something unique to Europe?

Have you considered using a Jamma switcher?  I was at an arcade recently that had several cabinets set up with 2-1 switchers.  They seemed pretty slick and I believe they make 6-1 switchers as well.

This is an interesting build.   LT's AD was one of my favorite builds from last year.  Can't go wrong with that model.   

What do you mean? I thought all people were building here were monster cabs with 2 ton frankenpanels??? 

Thanks for that. 

[johnrt]

I've never heard of the KENNY cabinet.  Being able to switch panels like that is very unique.   Was this something unique to Europe?

Have you considered using a Jamma switcher?  I was at an arcade recently that had several cabinets set up with 2-1 switchers.  They seemed pretty slick and I believe they make 6-1 switchers as well.

This is an interesting build.   LT's AD was one of my favorite builds from last year.  Can't go wrong with that model.   

I don't know. If I remember correctly, it's a cab manufactured in Italy. But they were quite common here in Scandinavia. Often seen on the wall in gas stations.

I've never heard of a JAMMA switcher. Must google that. My original idea of switching JAMMA connector between boards is thrown out of the window. The PCB's are way to fragile for me to do that. So some sort of JAMMA switcher it has to be. I found the 100$ 6-1 JAMMA switcher (http://www.jammaboards.com/store/6-in-1-multijamma-switcher-pcb-pcb-6in1switcher.html), but really? Then I also have to rotate the monitor automatically. I will not change games THAT often. I will probably do one game at a time till I'm sick of it and then change. And up to now the only thing I had to order and pay for is a JAMMA PSU. I'll try to keep the expenses down on this one, and use many of the left over parts from my other builds. I even have left over plywood for it.

[johnrt]

If I finish this project I will donate this cabinet to the childrens cancer hospital here in Trondheim, Norway. I will also give away unlimited free maintenance.  As long as I give away original PCB's it should be ok? I hope?

[emphatic]

If I finish this project I will donate this cabinet to the childrens cancer hospital here in Trondheim, Norway. I will also give away unlimited free maintenance.  As long as I give away original PCB's it should be ok? I hope?

If all games are Originals, you should sell the PCBs instead and donate the money. Salamander for instance costs about 2000 SEK. Chuck a 60in1 PCB in there instead.

[johnrt]

Quite warm outside today. 0.2 degrees celsius (that's 32.36 degrees Fahrenheit). It's like tropical in this country. :-) Fortunately it's not that much snow.


I took the opportunity to cut the side panels. It just took a couple of hours.



After cutting one side, I made another side panel (a little bigger than the template) screwed them together and routed it.


Side panels done:

[Superfrog]

Nice to see some action again John 
No P.P. driver bartop at the moment or did you skip it after the great Outrun bartop?

Follow this one again

[johnrt]

Nice to see some action again John 
No P.P. driver bartop at the moment or did you skip it after the great Outrun bartop?

Follow this one again

If you see this picture:

You'll se some spare panels. Those panels are just about what I need to make the PP bartop! :-)
How about you: Any more projects going on?

[johnrt]

I'm currently also redoing the paint job on the front panel of my Fix it Felix. (I was never happy with that paint job). Likewise I'm constantly on the look for a better upper marquee retainer for it. I know it when I find it! :-)

[Superfrog]

You'll se some spare panels. Those panels are just about what I need to make the PP bartop! :-)
How about you: Any more projects going on?

Great to see it's still alive 

I'm very into other projects  ( painting, decorating and installing kitchen ) 
I'm still lurking for new projects to keep the spirit alive 
But after all the work is done, you will see a new announcement soon 

[johnrt]

When building the Fix it Felix, I also wanted the Popeye theme. But I couldn't since you already done that. Popeye was one of the first arcades I ever played so there's a lot of memories attached to that game. But now I can make my own Popeye. I have actually aquired a Popeye PCB (ok, it's a bootleg, but nevertheless). And Louis Tully made this sketch for me. I'm optimistic!

[Superfrog]

When building the Fix it Felix, I also wanted the Popeye theme. But I couldn't since you already done that. Popeye was one of the first arcades I ever played so there's a lot of memories attached to that game. But now I can make my own Popeye. I have actually aquired a Popeye PCB (ok, it's a bootleg, but nevertheless). And Louis Tully made this sketch for me. I'm optimistic!

That looks VERY nice 
Louis set a new standard for cabs ... they are beautiful , but I hope that this version cabs will not be the next Weecade 

Are you building a man-cave John?
Your having a lot cabs in your basement .. When I see those pictures, I'm a little bit sad that I had to sold all my creations ..
Don't have the room for a man-cave , but I'm still having a dream to build a outrun deluxe sit-down on from scratch 

[johnrt]

That looks VERY nice 
Louis set a new standard for cabs ... they are beautiful , but I hope that this version cabs will not be the next Weecade 

Are you building a man-cave John?
Your having a lot cabs in your basement .. When I see those pictures, I'm a little bit sad that I had to sold all my creations ..
Don't have the room for a man-cave , but I'm still having a dream to build a outrun deluxe sit-down on from scratch 

The LT-cabaret is VERY easy to make. I'ts ONLY straight lines and I think it looks very nice! And after all the curves on the OutRun cab, it's nice to have something easier to make. :-)

Well, I have a man-cave that I also share with my teenage kids. But unfortunately I don't have THAT much room.

[johnrt]

What should I do with the feet on this:
Doing it like this requires smaller wheels.


These wheels are big, maybe too big for this cab:


There's a HUGE difference in wheel size!
 

[Nephasth]

Skip the wheels.

[yotsuya]

Yeah, the Tully really doesn't need wheels. Use sliders if anything.

[Generic Eric]

Bend with your knees.

[JDFan]

How attached are you to that chair in the pic ?? -- ( those wheels look to be about the size needed )

[johnrt]

There WILL be wheels! 
That chair I don't care about at all! I actually hate that chair. But I don't want those spinning-around wheels on the cab!

Today I have mounted the battens.

[Louis Tully]

.

[johnrt]

After cleaning up tonight I took this video of my "man cave". A glimpse of "The Tully" there at the end:

[Louis Tully]

.