How do I stop my control panel from rotating

[unclet]

I built a rotating control panel which has six sides (each having a different game control assembly) which sits upon a lazy-susan so the player can rotate it to select which control to use.  I need some way of "locking" the rotating control panel into place so it does not turn while playing a game.  

I was going to use a simple door bolt which I could slide up/down.  When I slide it UP, it would go into a hole I drilled on the underside of the rotating control panel, thus making it impossible to rotate anymore.  Problem is, the door bolt extends only about 1-1/2 inches which is too small.  

I was thinking maybe a plunger/spring mechanism would be best, but I can not find where these are sold.  Basically, you would simply pull down on the plunger, rotate the control panel, then let go of the plunger and the spring would force it back up into the hole I drilled out under the control panel.    Any ideas where I can find something like this (keep in mind it has to be mountable....)

How would you stop it from rotating?

[TheTick]

How 'bout mounting a Pinball Plunger? Pull back the plunger, rotate the panel, and release.  

[unclet]

Where do I get something like this and would it come with  a way to mount it up/down to some MDF?

[Frostillicus]

You can attach a pic to each post in a thread - it's at the bottom  of the little reply window.

[unclet]

yeah, that was easy.....guess I was simply looking somewhere else.   Anyway, I added a pic up in the original post....

[Hoagie_one]

no answer for your problem but I totally dig the cab you are building.  Very cool

[SirPoonga]

You can get plungers at wico I believe.  The other thing you could do is get a solenoid, like electronic door locks.  You press a button it will release then you rotate the panel.

Do you have a site with progress?

[Frostillicus]

I have no idea if this is feasible, but what about some type of electromagnet you can switch on and off that locks a corner of one of the panels to the base?

[SirPoonga]

that's basically what a solenoid is.  It is an electromagnet that moves a pin.  I forgot the technical names, if any, but there are solenoids that push the pin out or pull the pin in.  Depending on how it is mounted is what he'd use.  I'd mount it on the bottom so the pin goes up upon current.  Then have a NC button that will break the circuit.  The pin will fall, the panel will be able to rotate.  Let go of the button while rotating and then the pin will be forced into a pin hole as you rotate the panel.

The q*bert knocker is just a pinball solenoid that does just that.  On current it pushes the pin out.  You know that knock you get on extra balls....

A pinball solonoid is probably overkill, especially as it is 27V so getting that power to it would be tough.

[TheTick]

That is sweeeet!

as for the hole idea.... drill one hole from the bottom and use one of those plastic hand screws like on the back of a chair. Just screw it in to apply pressure and keep from spinning.

the electromagnet lock sounds cooler though. Maybe just hook up some really strong earth magnets. If you pull at it, it will give. Otherwise it'll stay where its at.

[hyiu]

not much help here... sorry....

but very nice design....

I do have 1 question....

the rotating CP.... is like in the middle of that enclosure of your cab....

how big is the gap between the roatating piece and the top ?? also, the roataing piece and the bottom ??...

from what I see.... the top has a bigger gap.... the bottom is closer... right ??....

I don't have any solid solutions yet.... but if you can give us a better look on the panel part..... and probably some measurements.... maybe we could help...

[SirPoonga]

Ahh, push and pull solenoids, that's the terminology they use.

Something like this.
http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=91&prrfnbr=4827&cgrfnbr=501&ctgys=

[SirPoonga]

the rotating CP.... is like in the middle of that enclosure of your cab....

Yeah, you can see that fromt he pic.  That square on top I assume will sit the monitor.  It is a sit down cab too, you see a part of the seat.

[Wienerdog]

that's basically what a solenoid is.  It is an electromagnet that moves a pin.  I forgot the technical anmes, if any, but there are solenoids that push the pin out or pull the pin in.  Depending on how it is mounted is what he'd use.  I'd mount it on the bottom so the pin goes up upon current.  Then have a NC button that will break the circuit.  The pin will fall, the panel will be able to rotate.  let go of the button while rotating and then the pin will be forced into a pin hole as you rotate the panel.

The q*bert knocker is just a pinball solenoid that does just that.  On current it pushes the pin out.  You know that knock you get on extra balls....

A pinball solonoid is probably overkill, especially as it is 27V so getting that power to it would be tough.

I've researched solenoids and I think you would want a pull solenoid that goes down when current is applied.  Otherwise, you would always have a current applied.  Since the panel is only rotated once in a while, use a NO button and apply the current while you are rotation the panel.  I am a beginner solenoid person, so is there anything I am overlooking?

What do you use to power a solenoid?  I've read about constructing solenoid driver circuits.  Can you power a DC solenoid off of a simple DC power supply (such as a laptop charger you might have lying around)?

[SirPoonga]

there is a 5v and 12v line from your computer

If the current is off will the pin go out then, even under gravity?  I think most solenoids gravity will still pull the pin down without the solenoid being on for a pull solenoid.

[unclet]

SirPoonga:  I will look into the solenoid route.  My air hockey table uses solenoids to release the puck, funny I never thought of using one here.   Anyway, if the plunger is long enough, this might work.

Also, this is a sitdown driving Mame cabinet which will complement my already existing/finshed 4-player Mame cabinet (see pic below).  I wanted something to play driving games in Mame as well as the Xbox driving games (ie: one of the six sides will have an XBox steering wheel attached). Also, the seat is an adjustable arcade seat from an Indy 500 cab (I think) and the 27" TV will be placed on the square of wood which you see on top.

I do not have a site with progress.  Barely find time to keep working on this cabinet.   My wife has been out of the garage for 4 months now.  Anyway, I am currently makiung the marquee and speaker housing.  I will post pics when I am done though.....probably be another 2 months

Frostillicus:    OK, this idea sounds cool, but I am not sure whether there would be enough room to mount a magnet on the underside of the rotating control panel.  I would also need to get six of them for mounting one each to the bottom of each of the six sides.  Where would you even get magnets which would resist the force of someone playing a game and trying to make sure it does not move.

hyiu:  Yes the rotating control panel is in the middle.  There is probably about a 1" clearance from the bottom and about a 2" clearance on the top.  The top clearance is more since I had to allow room for some of the assemblies which stick out above the control panel lid (ie: see how the motorcycle assembly sticks out over the top in the picture above.......also the Spy Hunter steering assembly sticks out some as well but this is not seen in the picture since it is on the other side).

[SirPoonga]

SirPoonga:  I will look into the solenoid route.  My air hockey table uses solenoids to release the puck, funny I never thought of using one here.   Anyway, if the plunger is long enough, this might work.

If it isn;t lon enough find a local welder and extend it

[AlanS17]

Why not use a latch like the type used to hold down control panels? Attach the latch underneath in front and attach a loop/ring/thingamajig to each rotating portion to lock it into place. I can't see what kind of clearance you have underneath each control, but this may be a viable option.

Another solution may be a lock like the type used in public restrooms - not the newer bar-shaped ones that just slide over, but the round ones that slide over and lock in place.

[unclet]

How about a picture of this latch thingamajig and a picture of the restroom thinger.   Do not know what you mean....can anyone help out here?  

Also, if you know there technical "real" name, that would help if I decide to buy some.

[Chris]

I was going to use a simple door bolt which I could slide up/down.  When I slide it UP, it would go into a hole I drilled on the underside of the rotating control panel, thus making it impossible to rotate anymore.  Problem is, the door bolt extends only about 1-1/2 inches which is too small.  

Simple.  If a door bolt is too small, use a gate bolt.

[tmasman]

I was thinking of one of these (see pic below...)
You could mount this pointing up and have it go through holes in your rotating CP...
You could even spring load it if you wanted too (it would take a little ingenuity [sp?])...
Just get the biggest 1 you can and that should do the trick.

This particular 1 is at HomeDepot.com...
Home > Online Store > Hardware > Builders Hardware > Barrel Bolts & Hasps

(I'd put up a link, but HD's site doesn't play nice...)

Have fun!
By the way, WOW!!!

[tmasman]

You could even build your own "lock" like the pic below...

You could round off the tip of the dowel to make it easier for
it to find the holes.

With the proper handle, this could look right at home on a cabinet.

If you had problems keeping the spring in place you could mount
a piece of PVC around the lower half of the dowel.

Or you could always try & play with the solenoid idea...
a button would definately be less invasive.

[REBIRTH]

Ahh, push and pull solenoids, that's the terminology they use.

Something like this.
http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=91&prrfnbr=4827&cgrfnbr=501&ctgys=

First off... Unclet - that is sweet looking.  I hope you have a large room in your house to put that thing in.  Very unique!!!!

SirPoonga - have you had experience with these solenoids?  How strong are they?  I imagine this sit down cab will get some good beatings, will the solenoid be strong enough to keep the panels from moving a bit?  I'd be interested in added these to my rotating CP, but would be afraid they wouldn't keep them locked down and steady.  It's a great idea, don't get me wrong - I'd put these in my cab in a second if someone knows if they are strong enough.  On my CP's I have a threaded pin that I screw in a bit to keep them steady - and they are so steady you would think they were permanently in that position.  Do you think a solenoid pin into a tight fitting hole would keep it as steady?  I'm thinking they might work better for me than for Unclet - I'm thinking his right to left pressure that will be on whatever anchors this down will be fairly intense during some hard driving games.  

Anyway, great idea though.  I'm excited about the possibilities!!!!

[Frostillicus]

I was thinking no mechanical parts at all.  Just some plates of iron/metal under the rotating part and a strong electromagnet situated at one spot on the base.  Push a button and it stops the current so you can rotate it...let go and it activates again and latches onto the metal plate on the CP.  Hmmm..I may look into this for my panels...

[SirPoonga]

would that strong of a magnet be good near a computer?

[Chris]

I was thinking no mechanical parts at all.  Just some plates of iron/metal under the rotating part and a strong electromagnet situated at one spot on the base.  Push a button and it stops the current so you can rotate it...let go and it activates again and latches onto the metal plate on the CP.  Hmmm..I may look into this for my panels...

When playing with electromagnets, remember that you have things in that cabinet that won't like strong magnetic fields: monitors, hard drives, speakers, etc.

--Chris

[REBIRTH]

would that strong of a magnet be good near a computer?

Or ones testes?

[SirPoonga]

How about a picture of this latch thingamajig and a picture of the restroom thinger.   Do not know what you mean....can anyone help out here?  

Also, if you know there technical "real" name, that would help if I decide to buy some.

The latch, yeah.
http://free.hostdepartment.com/S/SirPoonga/images/y_cab17.jpg
Copy and paste the link in a fresh browse, stupid free sites.
Smack dab in the middle of the pic. It's how I hold my CP down.  It came from the double dragon II cabinet too.
http://www.happcontrols.com/amusement/acesor/49005900.htm

You can get it cheaper at home depot though.

[unclet]

tmasman:  This was the exact bolt thing I got from Home Depot.   If only the metal rod extended past 1-1/2" long it would be perfect.   Since it does not, the actual metal casing/mount of the bolt interferes with the control panel assemblies while spinning.   If I mount it on the right side (next to where the player's right knee would be when sitting) the metal rod would not entend far enough into the rotating control panel.


You other picture seems quite involved, although I appreciate you spending the time to explain your idea.  Let me go and have another look....

[AlanS17]

Well tmasman basically posted the same idea I was trying to explain...

If it's not long enough you can try cutting the casing of the barrel to allow it to travel farther. Break out the Dremel!

Another idea might be a swinging hook. If you can't find one in the right size you may be able to fabricate one yourself.

I still think the control panel latches are a good idea, though. The picture I'm posting is of a newer style for wodden panels. I think the kind found with metal control panels might work better since they have a longer reach. This one seems a bit short.

[Frostillicus]

SirPoonga, Chris, Rebirth: Yeah I thought of that...yet if you think of the force being applied as attraction vs the force needed to break such a connection, they are going in perpendicular directions.  Think a 2" x 2" steel plate on the CP stuck to a magnet on the inside part of the cab.  Now you aren't going to pull the plate directly away from it, the tendency would be to slide it off as the CP rotates- which would be much harder to do.  More surface area would mean better protection against slippage and thus less necessary magnetic power (and fields).  This thing wouldn't be directly next the CPU or monitor anyways.
 
Well it made sense 4 beers ago...  

[AlanS17]

Well think of it this way? Which is easier: sliding a magnet across the refridgerator or pulling off? Sliding it is easier. You would need a MORE powerful magnet to hold it securely in place. Magnets scare me.

[1UP]

I'm liking this idea!  Another unique rotating panel to add to my links...  Certainly an idea I'd never thought of!  

Here's another possibility--make your own plunger!




Here's the bolt I use to attach my yoke to my cab.  Basically a reverse plunger; the plunger gets pushed DOWN into a hole and then screwed in.  You could possibly use this, but better for your setup would be to put the spring on the bottom, rather than up top.  That would pull the plunger down, so the bolt engages with a hole in the TOP of your rotating assembly.  Then you pull up on the knob, spin the panels, then let the plunger go.  In that case, you don't need anything to screw it into, just a hole it drops into (you could even get a longer bolt and cut off the threaded end.)  Also, you'd probably want to use pipe solder to join the washer to the bolt, rather than the hot glue I used...

Or you could mount the same thing underneath, where it's not as easily seen.

[Frostillicus]

Well think of it this way? Which is easier: sliding a magnet across the refridgerator or pulling off? Sliding it is easier. You would need a MORE powerful magnet to hold it securely in place. Magnets scare me.

That's a refrigerator and a super-weak magnet - usually the only reason people slide them off is because they can't get a grip on it.  Not quite the same comparison.

[ErikRuud]

How about a "Slide Action Gate Bolt" by Stanley.

Go to Http://www.homedepot.com

Type Slide Bolt in the search box.

Click on "Gate Hardware(1)".

[unclet]

Just purchased one of those today ..... I think this might work since the bolt seems to protrude farther out than a normal door bolt lock.

thanks

[AlanS17]

Well think of it this way? Which is easier: sliding a magnet across the refridgerator or pulling off? Sliding it is easier. You would need a MORE powerful magnet to hold it securely in place. Magnets scare me.

That's a refrigerator and a super-weak magnet - usually the only reason people slide them off is because they can't get a grip on it.  Not quite the same comparison.

Well even if you have a stronger magnet I'm pretty sure the same rules would apply. It's easier to slide a magnet than to remove it.

Back on topic, though, make sure that gate bolt isn't too loose.

[REBIRTH]

I still think the only way to get it incredibly sturdy is using something that either clamps down tight or screwes in tight.  A bolt sliding into a hole just won't be as tight as a clamp/screw - unless you had something in the hole gripping the bolt somehow.  The magnet thing sounds interesting, but I am guessing that if the magnet is strong enough to hold that thing in place, it will be strong enough to wreak havok on the electrical parts of the PC/Monitor.  

If you don't mind the things being visible, I sort of like the latch idea suggested above (like the one Happs sells).  You could have a fixed latch on either side of the individual control panel "spokes" (fixed on the non-moving bottom part), and on either side of every "spoke" have the metal strips the latches clamp onto.  Just unlatch, spin, re-latch.

1Up's idea is good too, I like the screw-in theory - just thinking the latch thing might be easier to install?  

[Frostillicus]

Well think of it this way? Which is easier: sliding a magnet across the refridgerator or pulling off? Sliding it is easier. You would need a MORE powerful magnet to hold it securely in place. Magnets scare me.

That's a refrigerator and a super-weak magnet - usually the only reason people slide them off is because they can't get a grip on it.  Not quite the same  comparison.

Well even if you have a stronger magnet I'm pretty sure the same rules would apply. It's easier to slide a magnet than to remove it.

I've never seen a refrigerator with a perfectly smooth surface such as a flat bar of iron, they always have a slippery painted texture to them.  Hence less actual surface area to make contact with.  I think it would be easier to just pry them apart then to slide one across the surface of another.  But it's all just conjecture, the only way to settle this is to try it  and I don't see that happening...  
"We've tried nothin' and we're all outta ideas!"  -Flanders' 'D-mn Beatniks!" Parents    

[Xiaou2]

 Just a note...  I once tried using 'Locking-pin'  bolts to stop my control panels from spinning... but there were some major probs with it...

 The holes have to be Perfect!  If the holes are too loose... there will be play.. and too tight will make it very hard to push in/out.   Also... if the angles are a bit off... youll have a hard time with lining up more than one pin... and again being too tight or too loose... that and finally... if you are using straight up wood - if will eventually compress and become loose over time.

 My suggestion is to use something that is much stronger... like the panel clamps that happs sells to hold control panels down.  THe extra spring tentioner that they use provides the tightest hold ever and is easy to operate.   The other methods that can be used are a custom disc-brake system... or something using a hacked locking vicegrip.  

 You could possibly do the spring pin - if - you used a metal actuator and a strong precise metal brushing(? i think thats what it would be called?)  for the recieving end.   The pin itself should be fairly thick to avoid being bent from the forces... and the pin needs to have nearly no play at all inside the metal recieving end.

 As for screw-in bolt stops... I think they are too slow and painfull.  



 www.xiaou2.homestead.com

[grafixmonkey]

I was thinking no mechanical parts at all.  Just some plates of iron/metal under the rotating part and a strong electromagnet situated at one spot on the base.  Push a button and it stops the current so you can rotate it...let go and it activates again and latches onto the metal plate on the CP.  Hmmm..I may look into this for my panels...

that would waste an unbelievable amount of power.
You want the magnet to activate and release something, not hold it in place while the magnet is on.

Do this:
Get solenoids. (like someone suggested but there are so many posts I can't find it!)
But get more than one.  Get three, or six, and place them on top of the rotating panel so their metal pieces will fall down.  The rotating panel should have recessed holes in the top (not all the way through the wood - just a hole the solenoid bit can fall in to.)  Make sure the solenoids are spaced at regular angles - you have a 6-sided rotating panel right?  so put either 3 or 6 in, so that when you rotate to the next position the 3 or 6 solenoids line up with new holes.  Now, when you press a button, the solenoids will yank the metal bolts out of their holes, freeing the panel.  Rotate the panel a bit, and release the button, and the bolts will fall back down and ride on top of the smooth wood.  When the holes come back into alignment, they will all fall back down into place by gravity alone, locking the panel into its next position.

The only problem it might have would be precision - as in you'd need lots of it to get the solenoids lining up with their holes.  So, you could also space the solenoids at irregular intervals (like four of them, but not in a square) and drill four new solenoid holes for each table position.  More drilling, less precision...  just mark the spot and go at it for each position.

Awesome panel!!!

[Wienerdog]

Yeah I thought of that...yet if you think of the force being applied as attraction vs the force needed to break such a connection, they are going in perpendicular directions.

Are we talking about the magnent or the testes?

On a side note, I had 4 beers to see if it made more sense now...  it does.

[unhuman]

There was a solenoid in some catalog I just got that - from a car door lock.  says 3/4" throw, current required to move it either way....  Was like $3.

Ping me if you want more info.

I didn't bother to go back to see if you had a fix, but this seems pretty logical...  Altho so did the pinball plunger.

-H

[zorg]

As for screw-in bolt stops... I think they are too slow and painfull.  

there's realy fast screw-in bolt , just a 1/4 turn and it's locked
there's a sort of reversed T that goes in a female piece, rotate 1/4 turn and "voila".

[BobA]

A cheap source for a 2 way 12V solenoid would be a car wrecker or aftermarket shop that sells solenoids for door locks.  These require power to lock and power to unlock a car door.  Just an idea.

BobA

[unclet]

Problem with the solenoids which I have seen is that the rod which sticks out is not long enough due to the place where I would need to mount the solenoid.   Also, mounting the solenoid might be a problem as well....I would need some type of strapping to hold it down...right?

Also, it seems if someone tried to rotate the panel while the solenoids were in the locked position, then I run the risk of ripping the solenoids from their mounted position....maybe....

Does anyone make a large solenoid where the metal rod is thick and protrudes out somewhat farther then the little thin rod ones?

[unhuman]

I don't know much about them - I just saw the one in the catalog.  But yeah, I could see you worrying about ripping out the mounting...  Depends how heavy handed you are, I suppose...  Using some sort of back mounting and nuts and bolts instead of wood screws would make it more durable than just mounting directly to the wood.

but a 1/4" steel rod should be penty secure, I'd think....  

Good luck

[SirPoonga]

Solenoid solutions the way I seeit.

Solder/weld a longer rod onto the solenoid.  

Yes, you will have to strap it down.  Goto Home Depot, plenty of pipe brackets for that purpose.

On the CP take a small metal plate (sheet metal is cheap) and drill a hole.   The solenoid will go into that and a little into the wood

[AlanS17]

People can get wild on driving games, flight sims, etc that require alot of back and forht movement. You'll wanna be careful. Even moving it unintentionally while playing a game could damage it.

[unhuman]

Dag...  Thought that just happened to it when it was someone elses machine (arcades, bars, etc).

Anyhow, perhaps you could rig up a few solenoids in a row....  That'd distribute the pressure more evenly.  And, still let you get by with a single switch...  and install reinforcements as I suggested above to where it mounts.

[Wienerdog]

Does anyone know the effect of running a 22vdc solenoid off of the 12 computer power supply?
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=8803+SL

Is there any disadvantage of using a continuous solenoid if you only need intermittent operation?  In my mind, a continuous duty solenoid seems would be preferable because you could use an on/off switch to fire it instead of holding a button down.

[grafixmonkey]

Does anyone know the effect of running a 22vdc solenoid off of the 12 computer power supply?
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=8803+SL

Is there any disadvantage of using a continuous solenoid if you only need intermittent operation?  In my mind, a continuous duty solenoid seems would be preferable because you could use an on/off switch to fire it instead of holding a button down.

They would both do the same job probably.  The difference would just be the power they consume.  i.e. you don't want the solenoid to be on all the time, and off when you move the panel...   better to have it off all the time and on to move the panel.  Or even better, one that flips back and forth like the one in car door locks like someone said.

[Wienerdog]

Actually, I mean the difference between a Continuous Duty solenoid and an Intermittent Duty solenoid.

A continuous duty solenoid can take power all the time, but an intermittent duty solenoid can only take power for some period of time (ex: 1 minute on and 3 minutes off).  That makes it sound like the continuous duty solenoid can handle heat better and would be more robust.  I am just wonderining if there is some reason that you wouldn't want to use a continuous duty solenoid for what will most likely turn out to be intermittent operation.

[tmasman]

When you turn off or unplug the machine, it would become unlocked...
Is that the result you want?
I don't really like the idea of the solenoid because you're up a creek if you just
want to rotate the panel when the cab is unplugged.
I think a bolt lock of some kind, or a pinball type plunger would be the best way to go.
The pinball plunger has the added advantage of being spring loaded, allowing you
to pull it out & let go when you've partially rotated the panel...
When it rotates into the proper position it will fall (or rather push up) into the hole.

[unclet]

Where do I get a pinball plunger to use for this purpose?   I like the idea of a plunger (since I can not really find a bolt longer enough to work) but do not know where to get one.

1Up had a picture of his homemade plunger but I could not really understand how he made it via his photos.

[grafixmonkey]

Happ sells pinball plungers.

Or a little bit of work with metal dowels and a spring from Ace Hardware or somewhere would do the same thing.

A plunger will only hold the panel in one location.  It would probably still wobble a bit.  You might be able to fix that by making the hole the plunger fits into cone-shaped at the end.

[Wienerdog]

Won't it be difficult to get a solid control panel with the plunger?  The slop between the shaft, the mounting bracket on the shaft/spring side, and the metal bracket on the female side will prevent you from attaining a solid surface.

I personally would look into solutions that provide a solid lock when in place.  If you are already talking about a manual pinball plunger, how about some kind of latch or clamp that can be locked down.  Sorry if that doesn't make any sense for your control panel, I can't see the image from my current computer.  

[Wienerdog]

Okay, I checked out the picture, NICE!

Here would be an awsome solution:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=400400&item=DCM-178&type=store

I don't know if you could retrofit your design to it, but maybe it will help you or someone else out.

[tmasman]

Here is Happ's Plunger
You could come up with one of your own too!

Get a long 1/2" bolt.
2 hex nuts, 1 washers, a compression spring, and a handle (if you can find one to fit the bolt.)

Although that motor idea would be pretty slick... Arrow push buttons to tell it which way to rotate... (drool...)

[unclet]

Thanks for the picture.....this might look do-able.  

The motor looks cool as well, but I am not sure there is a way to incorporate that now.   I am pretty much finishing up the cabinet now.    Just need to do a little more work before painting/wiring begins....

[grafixmonkey]

one of the review replies mentioned the motor included turn-counting.  You could use that to make something that, when you hit an arrow button, releases a bunch of relay-locks, turns the panel exactly into the next position, and reengages the relay locks once it's there.

But, again, you would not have the option of turning the table without power being on unless you powered the movement system from a separate power supply.