Centipede Bartop: Slow and Steady (5/3/14)

[Yvan256]

Plus if I can connect the power to the 12v on the power supply, I won't need to stuff the case with the power cord. This also makes me want to rethink my marquee light using 12v lighting, thus running everything off of the power supply, rather than having a bunch of power connectors and surge protector/ smart strip..... Hmmmm.

I do believe it's time to get technical!

What do you mean, 12v marquee light? As opposed to what? You do know there is both +12v and +5v on the power connectors of computer power supplies?

Also, for a cab that small, may I suggest white LEDs instead? I burned the first two neon tubes in my first mini-cab because of the heat. Having a fragile glass tube with mercury inside a small, portable cabinet isn't a good idea in the first place anyway. 

[Ryglore]

Plus if I can connect the power to the 12v on the power supply, I won't need to stuff the case with the power cord. This also makes me want to rethink my marquee light using 12v lighting, thus running everything off of the power supply, rather than having a bunch of power connectors and surge protector/ smart strip..... Hmmmm.

I do believe it's time to get technical!

What do you mean, 12v marquee light? As opposed to what? You do know there is both +12v and +5v on the power connectors of computer power supplies?

Also, for a cab that small, may I suggest white LEDs instead? I burned the first two neon tubes in my first mini-cab because of the heat. Having a fragile glass tube with mercury inside a small, portable cabinet isn't a good idea in the first place anyway. 

Oh a 12v light as opposed to a standard fluorescent light with a 110 house plug on it. So I'm Thinking of hacking my light that I have in the cab and putting a PCB inside with LEDs soldered in place and then wiring that directly to the power supply. I said 12v mostly because that is the kind of lighting I am around most often, since trailers use 12v power for either lighting systems. But what I meant was something I could wire into the power supply in general. I'd prefer to go with LEDs actually.

[Yvan256]

So I'm Thinking of hacking my light that I have in the cab and putting a PCB inside with LEDs soldered in place and then wiring that directly to the power supply. I said 12v mostly because that is the kind of lighting I am around most often, since trailers use 12v power for either lighting systems. But what I meant was something I could wire into the power supply in general. I'd prefer to go with LEDs actually.

The +5 volts is probably going to be more than enough, given that most LEDs are typically between around 1.5 to 3.5 volts (varies by LED color, type, brightness, etc). Do check the maximum amps though, you can't request 10 amps from a PC power supply drive connector!   

[Ryglore]

The +5 volts is probably going to be more than enough, given that most LEDs are typically between around 1.5 to 3.5 volts (varies by LED color, type, brightness, etc). Do check the maximum amps though, you can't request 10 amps from a PC power supply drive connector!   

Actually... now I am thinking something along the lines of this from groovy game gear. http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=307

Of course the length is 11.5" But if done correctly, I should be able to trim it down to fit inside the cab, which is 10" wide. Also, if mounted correctly it will light the marquee nicely.

[Epyx]

Ya, I think those are a great way to go. I'm going with something similar from a local source here:

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=37158&vpn=ML12WT&manufacture=Logisys%20Computer

[Ryglore]

Ya, I think those are a great way to go. I'm going with something similar from a local source here:

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=37158&vpn=ML12WT&manufacture=Logisys%20Computer

Yup, The best part is that the GGG one is made to plug into a PC power supply. 

[Yvan256]

Yup, The best part is that the GGG one is made to plug into a PC power supply. 

The one Epyx listed is also for a PC power supply (4PINS Molex Connector 12V DC).

[Ryglore]

Yup, The best part is that the GGG one is made to plug into a PC power supply. 

The one Epyx listed is also for a PC power supply (4PINS Molex Connector 12V DC).

Ok you got me... I clicked the link but didn't take the time to read the specs... 

[Ummon]

I don't see a reason to build the cabinet that large, given the dinky-ness of that monitor. I know which way I'd go.

[Ryglore]

I don't see a reason to build the cabinet that large, given the dinky-ness of that monitor. I know which way I'd go.

I've test fitted everything and the cabinet isn't that big compared to the monitor at all.

[Ryglore]

As I said before, this project was going to reach a stalling point. It would seem that this is it, ha. With the coming of the end of the year and the need to save money for holiday spending as well as general living expenses (Apparently you need food in order to live to be able to build arcade machines), This project is officially hitting stall status.

On one hand I can snag my dad's soldering iron and work on hacking the PSOne screen for the time being. But as far as buying the rest of the parts for it, that will have to wait. This is actually a bit of a blessing though, as it will give me time to tinker with ideas and I won't be rushing anything on it.

Plus I still need to figure out how I want a coin slot to work. and this will give me plenty of time to play with the unassembled cabinet to work on ideas for that.

Hope to continue progress soon. But in all likelihood, This will end up being finished sometime in 2010. 

[Epyx]

Ah well you have your awesome main cab to keep you occupied on the gaming front at least. Hopefully you are enjoying it!

[Gamester]

Hope to continue progress soon. But in all likelihood, This will end up being finished sometime in 2010. 

Well that's understandable.  Hopefully you'll still hang around here some in the mean time. 

[Ryglore]

Hope to continue progress soon. But in all likelihood, This will end up being finished sometime in 2010. 

Well that's understandable.  Hopefully you'll still hang around here some in the mean time. 

Nah, I don't like you people. 



Ha, I kid. 

[DillonFoulds]

I hit that point once the snow hit the ground here.  you Alberta! 

I've got everything all done except basically repainting my cab and doing up some artwork... Still debating just making a mess in the basement to get it done...

[Ryglore]

Ya, my main problem is funds. I am lacking in the monies department. 

[Ryglore]

I've been slowly planning the Centipede mini-bartop since I've been unable to do any actual work on the project. I've decided that this will be a dedicated Centipede cab, rather than having multiple games on it or even just Centipede/Millipede. Here the list of what I have planned thus far:

• 1 Fire button and 2 player buttons.
• USB 2 1/4" Happ Trackball
• GGG NovaGemCDR coin drop button mounted on the front of the CP for "tokens". I would love to use my tokens in this as well, but I've not got the engineering skills to work it out yet.
• mini-ITX based PC, with an IDE flash module for the "hard drive". For extra ventilation, I will be mounting a case fan on the back panel
• Windows will be trimmed down, using nLite to remove any unneeded programs from Windows XP.
• Using Mala and Instant Sheller, I will hide windows completely. Centipede will launch on start up and the power button on the back will shut everything down when pressed. This should lgive me a seamless load up and shutdown.
• The PSone LCD screen will be connected using S-Video. This way I don't need to worry about soldering and doing to much modding to the screen. (Read as: Destroying the screen)
• This cab will be laminated rather than painted. It will be a much better finish this way and will be a good testing ground for learning how to laminate.
• The Control Panel will be made out of metal, using the side panel of my old PC case. The trackball will be mounted to it with bolts and the heads will show. Just like the original.
• The Control Panel Overlay will be printed off by Mame Marquees and will be adhesive backed. So there will be no plexiglass on top of the CP. And it will roll down to the front of the CP.
• The CP art is a mix between the standard CPO and the Cocktal CPO. Though due to the size it does resemble the Cocktail CPO a lot more.
• The marquee will be printed using Photo paper, since it is only 10" wide. I will then use the thin plastic covers for presentation folders and sandwich it all into place.
• The side art will most likely be printed at a local print shop, only so I can explain in person what I need done and what they can or can't do.

And now... Pictures!

Here is the latest version of the CPO. It may change a bit more... maybe with coloring closer to the stand up cab's CPO.


And here is an updated Mock-up of the Mini-Centipede.

[jeef]

awesome work mano

[Ryglore]

Thanks jeef! I hope it turns out half as good as the photoshop image... 

[Ryglore]

Actually, I forgot to put the rectangle graphic on the front of the CP. Here is the newer mock-up now.

[meany]

Looking good.  Millipede is a must.

[Ryglore]

Using the laser printer at work, I printed off the CP art and brought it home so I could test it. The main purpose is so I can see where the placement of the rounded edge is as well as button placement etc. I have some SPST pushbuttons from Radio Shack that I'll be using for the player start buttons. These are quite a bit smaller than an arcade button and will work out well for the player start and power buttons. They have a bit stiffer feel to them and I wouldn't want to use them for gaming, but for these functions they are perfect. Luckily I have an extra White Happ Pushbutton left over from SHMUP, so I won't need to buy another one for this project... but I may order out a Micro-Leaf switch for it when I order out my KeyWiz...

Start button next to the Happ button for size comparision


Close up of the Start button


Complete Mock-up of the cab.

[jeef]

mock-up? That looks like a complete build!

[Ryglore]

mock-up? That looks like a complete build!

Ha, well it's a mock up as in... It doesn't have the screen, PC or controls and it's not laminated and glued together. 

[emphatic]

Looks good.  Can't fit a bit bigger screen in there somehow?

[Ryglore]

From the top edge of the bezel to the bottom edge is 5 inches... so i guess I "could" fit a 6" monitor in there. But I already have to PSOne screen.

[TEKNYNE]

I know I am new here but... I have to agree with every one else if you can get a larger screen and use the psone screen for something else I would. I think filling up the space with a bigger screen would make it look a little more like a original production build, especially since every thing else looks legit. The small screen just doesn't look right or even do the cab and art justice I think. Just my opinion. Other than that awesome. 

[Ryglore]

The small screen just doesn't look right or even do the cab and art justice I think. Just my opinion. Other than that awesome. 

Yeah, I did some looking into screens last night and I may see if I can find a decently priced headrest monitor in 4:3.

[IG-88]

+2 on a bigger screen. Thats a fine looking cab you got going. I bet you would be disappointed with the psone screen after it's all said and done.

If you got a new screen thats a bit bigger, you could use the psone screen for a new project building a smaller cab to fit it too 

[Ryglore]

+2 on a bigger screen. Thats a fine looking cab you got going. I bet you would be disappointed with the psone screen after it's all said and done.

If you got a new screen thats a bit bigger, you could use the psone screen for a new project building a smaller cab to fit it too 

Ya, I've been looking into Monitor options. I'll have to take some measurements, but I'm certainly thinking about what I can and can't get away with.

[Yvan256]

I think the picture attached says it all.

[Ryglore]

That would be 1000 words worth, yes.

I've been sold on the idea of a bigger screen for a day or so now. I just need to decide if I will go with a small vertical monitor, or squeeze a horizontal monitor in there and hide the "margins" around the game with the bezel.

[Yvan256]

That would be 1000 words worth, yes.

I've been sold on the idea of a bigger screen for a day or so now. I just need to decide if I will go with a small vertical monitor, or squeeze a horizontal monitor in there and hide the "margins" around the game with the bezel.

The arcade had a 4:3 monitor installed vertically, so I would go for the same setup. If you are fine with a composite video connection, then there is a lot of choices in the headrest monitors department. Some even have S-Video, so it's not all bad. Be careful though, the viewing angles need to account for a vertical installation.

[leapinlew]

Whats the viewing angle on that thing? Looks like you need to be directly in front of it?

[Ryglore]

The arcade had a 4:3 monitor installed vertically, so I would go for the same setup. If you are fine with a composite video connection, then there is a lot of choices in the headrest monitors department. Some even have S-Video, so it's not all bad. Be careful though, the viewing angles need to account for a vertical installation.

Yup I've been looking into headrest monitors for a while now. I'm still having a hell of a time finding one in 4:3 though...

Whats the viewing angle on that thing? Looks like you need to be directly in front of it?

The cab is only 10 inches wide, so I would guess you would be in directly in front of it anyway?

[Yvan256]

By viewing angle, I mean the "best" angle that is specified in the monitor specifications. Some monitors have their best viewing angle off-center, such as small monitor that are supposed to be viewed from above. Such a monitor would have a bad viewing angle when used vertically. I'm having this problem with the 7" LCD that I wanted to use to make a micro-pinball machine.

[leapinlew]

The cab is only 10 inches wide, so I would guess you would be in directly in front of it anyway?

In a mock up as if your playing it, can you see the screen ok? I assume once your playing it, you would be standing above it and looking down. It looks like the marquee box would obscure the screen unless your standing eye level to the screen.

[Ryglore]

The cab is only 10 inches wide, so I would guess you would be in directly in front of it anyway?

In a mock up as if your playing it, can you see the screen ok? I assume once your playing it, you would be standing above it and looking down. It looks like the marquee box would obscure the screen unless your standing eye level to the screen.

Good point. Luckily I got my own D-Cam for Christmas! So after I read your reply I set up the Centipede on the counter top as if it was done and stood roughly "playing distance" with the camera at eye level. Here is what I came up with.... I highlighted the monitor area w/ purple so you can see it better. Thoughts?

[leapinlew]

Looks good, assuming you don't go with a bigger screen, you should be able to see it.

On my multi-williams bartop, I didn't do so well with the viewing angle. I have to look down past the marquee to play. I think the marquee distracts some people (including me) when they play it. Because it's bright and busy. If you look at the tempest - it's perfect. By the way, you can see my bartops in my signature.

I assume your cutting a slot for the t-molding?

Looking like a nice project. Keep up the nice work.

[Ryglore]

Looks good, assuming you don't go with a bigger screen, you should be able to see it.

On my multi-williams bartop, I didn't do so well with the viewing angle. I have to look down past the marquee to play. I think the marquee distracts some people (including me) when they play it. Because it's bright and busy. If you look at the tempest - it's perfect. By the way, you can see my bartops in my signature.

I assume your cutting a slot for the t-molding?

Looking like a nice project. Keep up the nice work.

Thanks, I'm leaning toward keeping the PSone screen instead of going with a bigger one, so the view should be about perfect.

And I am going to do T-molding, but I'm going to cut the slots after I get it laminated.