Sony PVM-2950Q - connecting a PC to it ? Mounting it in a Candy Cabinet?

[eastbayarb]

I have a Sony PVM-2950Q, but it has component video input, but not any other kind of RGB or VGA style inputs. How would I connect a PC to it? My video card doesn't have component video output. Has anyone connected their PC to this and how does it look on this monitor?

Thank you!

P.S.

I got a Jaleco Pony Mark IV candy cabinet recently that can take a 29" monitor like this, so I was wondering if it was indeed possible to somehow mount this monitor (will the shell off of course) inside the cabinet.

[Kevin Mullins]

Research "component to BNC" or VGA to BNC" adapters.

[eastbayarb]

Research "component to BNC" or VGA to BNC" adapters.

Thanks, I found that out.

Now about mounting it in a Candy Cab....

[Ummon]

Yeah, true component IS RBG.  I have a VGA to BNC cable for a 31" Mitusbishi analog multisync of mine.

[Jack Burton]

Yeah, true component IS RBG.  I have a VGA to BNC cable for a 31" Mitusbishi analog multisync of mine.

Not Quite.  I'm not sure what Component video you are talking about, but if it is YPbPr then you will get a strong green tint over the image if you connect  it to something that is expecting RGsB.  

Now, to the OP.  You have both YCBCR and RGBS available over the BNC connectors on your monitor.  The best thing for you to buy is this:  



This is a RGBS cable and will allow you to use VGA video on your monitor.  If you combine this with an ArcadeVGA or a soft 15khz compativle video card you will be able to display native arcade resolutions on this monitor.

If this monitor is in working condition I can assure you the picture on it will be fantastic.  Astounding even.  

It is absolutely worth the time to put RGBS native video on this monitor.  Do not settle for S-video.

There are a few threads on this forum about these PVM monitors.  I recommend you read them to learn more.

You could mount this in a candy cabinet, but it would be a lot of work.  The monitors are very deep so you would need to modify the cabinet to get them to fit, and also you would need to decase.  They have a lot of electronics inside that would need to find a new place inside the cabinet.   I absolutely do not recommend putting this monitor in a already existing candy cabinet.

However, I think this monitor would be great choice for a scratch built Candy Candy.  Look up the scratch built "Cosmo City" on this forum for an example of this.  You could leave the monitor in its case and build a slightly larger cab around it.  

These monitors are also great for a "half cab"  Which is a cabinet that instead of having a monitor, just has a flat space in front of the CP.  You then place your monitor on this flat space.  This makes it very easy to rotate and transport.  

[Zebidee]

OP, can you post a pic of your rear inputs? No, I don't mean a mooning!

[eastbayarb]

Jack Burton,

I know you don't reccomend putting this monitor in my cab, but the guy I got this cab from mounted a decased CRT TV inside of it and he did a really good job of it. I would just like a higher quality, arcade-like monitor in this thing.

OP, can you post a pic of your rear inputs? No, I don't mean a mooning!

which rear inputs?

[Kevin Mullins]

Here's a manual since a lot of folks seem to come across this particular model monitor.

[Ummon]

...but the guy I got this cab from mounted a decased CRT TV inside of it and he did a really good job of it. I would just like a higher quality, arcade-like monitor in this thing.

What video format is that TV using?


Jack - true component is BNC 5...and maybe 4. We ain't talkin bout TVs here. Anyways, this model can obviously do both; not sure whether the quality would differ.

[eastbayarb]

Ummon,

the TV that was installed by the original owner is NTSC. I am currently using an XBOX in it via component video, but I want to put the PVM in it and use RGB

What monitor is recommended to install in this cabinet? I would like a 15hz or maybe tri sync monitor

[Ummon]

Well, you could try to decase the PVM. Some of the electronics are for the speakers amps inside it. Or, get any 27/29" 15khz or tri-sync arcade monitor. There's stuff on ebay.

[eastbayarb]

Well, you could try to decase the PVM. Some of the electronics are for the speakers amps inside it. Or, get any 27/29" 15khz or tri-sync arcade monitor. There's stuff on ebay.

Which try-sync monitor would you recommend? I don't see any on ebay

[Zebidee]

I've decased and mounted TWO three sllightly smaller 27" PVM27QM into wooden cabs that originally held 25" monitors. Mounted from the corner peg holes (modified), like a normal arcade monitor. There is a fair bit of work involved, and you have to be prepared top basically destroy the case in doing so.

The  trouble is, it probably won't work in a candy cab because:

a) the PVM29Q is actually probably larger than most 29" arcade monitors. My 27" PVMs are about the same size as what most sellers call ' 29" arcade monitors ".

b) the Sony trinitron screen (patented to Sony) is a different shape to normal arcade CRTs. It is more like the side of a cylinder than the side of a balloon.

All this means likely problems with fitting the CRT and with getting the top onto it.

[Ummon]

Sometimes you have to be clever in your search terms to find the actual plethora of stuff there. Check this thread out:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97369.0

[Jack Burton]

If you have a TV with component input already installed then you can use an RGB to Component converter and have a very good result:

http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html

I think you should suffer only minimal image quality loss with this.  It will allow you to connect both arcade pcbs and pc's running in 15khz mode to your television.

[MonMotha]

The JROK component converter is digital, so it'll have some round-off error, but otherwise quality should be identical.  It's just a colorspace conversion, which can be lossless, and placing sync on luma instead of a separate wire.  Last I heard, the JROK converter was kinda pricey, though.

There are also several RGB to S-Video converters out there.  If done right, quality is almost (but not quite) indistinguishable from RGB on a quality TV.  If done wrong or on a crappy TV, it can look as bad as composite.   I built one several years back and things looked EXCELLENT on a Sony WEGA.  Doing it this way avoids all the scaling that the s-video outputs on PC cards have, so quality is much better than using the onboard s-video output or a scan converter.  Y-Plus (aka arcademvs.com) has a converter that seems to work decently and is quite reasonably priced.

FYI, the confusion between monitor sizes is because the Japanese measure full tube size, including the non-imaged glass area, while Americans only measure the imaged area.  A 29" Japanese monitor is a 27" American monitor, but many arcade cabinets are spec'd for Japanese monitors.

[Zebidee]

These days I go by the number on the back of the tube (e.g A68..... = 68cm = 27 inches or A72..... = 29 inches) OR, even better, by the diagonal distance between the centres of the mounting peg holes.

[eastbayarb]

Does anyone think a 27" arcade monitor will fit in here?

[Jack Burton]

A 27" arcade monitor is the same size as a 29" one.   

What monitor are you thinking of?

[eastbayarb]

Would a Sony PVM-2530 be a better fit if de-cased?

[Jack Burton]

Let's  back up here a minute.  

You say you have a TV installed in the cabinet.  Is the image good?  

It's very easy to convert RGB video to Component and allow you to play 15khz arcade games on a TV.  This introduces virtually no visible difference in quality and no input lag.  

If you want to play 31khz games on this tv all you will need to do is either set your pcb to interlaced mode, or tell mame to output 31khz games interlaced.  This will make them look very similar to if you played the console version of a game on a component television.

If you already have a good tv installed I think it would save a lot of headache and time to simply purchase an RGB > Component adapter.

A PVM-2530 will certainly fit.  You will just have to figure out a way to mount it.  You may need to make some sort of adapter to get the smaller monitor to fit the mounts for the 29" one.

[eastbayarb]

Let's  back up here a minute.  

You say you have a TV installed in the cabinet.  Is the image good?  

It's very easy to convert RGB video to Component and allow you to play 15khz arcade games on a TV.  This introduces virtually no visible difference in quality and no input lag.  

If you want to play 31khz games on this tv all you will need to do is either set your pcb to interlaced mode, or tell mame to output 31khz games interlaced.  This will make them look very similar to if you played the console version of a game on a component television.

If you already have a good tv installed I think it would save a lot of headache and time to simply purchase an RGB > Component adapter.

A PVM-2530 will certainly fit.  You will just have to figure out a way to mount it.  You may need to make some sort of adapter to get the smaller monitor to fit the mounts for the 29" one.

The reason I would want a Sony PVM-2950Q is because it is 15khz pure RGB. I have RGB cables for all my systems, and would rather use that, than a system connected with a SCART to component adapter. Trust me, my XBOX looks blurry on this TV that is currently in my cabinet, even through component video connected (no adapter, and with an adapter). I have a SCART to Component adapter and I have tried it on this TV. I was just considering a PVM-2530 since others have said the Sony PVM-2950Q may be hard, or not possible to fit in here.

[Jack Burton]

The main problem with mounting the PVM-2530 is again going to be depth.  You will need to find out the maximum depth that cabinet can fit, and compare it to the PVM.

The measurements for both should be in the manuals for both. 

[eastbayarb]

The main problem with mounting the PVM-2530 is again going to be depth.  You will need to find out the maximum depth that cabinet can fit, and compare it to the PVM.

The measurements for both should be in the manuals for both. 

thanks but i don't have the manuals for either.

[Jack Burton]

PVM manual

http://www.mediacollege.com/cgi-bin/equipment/manual.cgi?model=PVM2530

You should be able to measure your own cab to see if you think it will fit. 

[eastbayarb]

The Sony PVM-2950Q 29 measures 20" deep with the case on. It has a viewable screen size of 27". The current monitor in my cabinet is about 17" deep (de cased of course), and has a 27" screen. So the PVM-2950q may in fact fit. Here is a picture of my cab with the monitor. As you can see, it is mounted on a bracket, and you can pull the bracket forward with the bar on the top. The tube is on this bracket, and the other internal parts of the monitor are behind/below the tube, which are accessible via the cabinet's front door. The TV's speakers are wired to the cabinet.

[Jack Burton]

Have you taken the back off of your PVM and had a look to see how hard you think it will be to mount decased?

[eastbayarb]

Have you taken the back off of your PVM and had a look to see how hard you think it will be to mount decased?

no it is in storage, which is one of the reasons I posted this thread...just to see if it was worth trying.

[Zebidee]

Have you taken the back off of your PVM and had a look to see how hard you think it will be to mount decased?

no it is in storage, which is one of the reasons I posted this thread...just to see if it was worth trying.

It ain't gunna work

Sony screens are a different shape, different size, and have a higher profile at the front.

[eastbayarb]

[/quote]

It ain't gunna work

Sony screens are a different shape, different size, and have a higher profile at the front.
[/quote]

even de-cased? What are my options for my cab and an arcade/rgb monitor?

[Zebidee]

even de-cased? What are my options for my cab and an arcade/rgb monitor?

Here is the best & most affordable  & practical option:

Find a TV tube of the same dimensions. Go by the number on the back of the original tube (e.g. A68XXXXX) and brand, if possible. The 2nd & 3rd characters refer to size in centimetres (so A68XXXXX refers to a 27inch tube, A72XXXXX = 29inch tube etc).

Buy a new monitor chassis to suit from 8liners.com or www.jomac.com.au. The sellers will tell you what to do if you ask. There are also other threads that tell you how to attach the chassis.

chassis + tube = monitor

Be prepared to adjust the top cover to match your screen, unless you manage to get a tube exactly the right shape/size

[eastbayarb]

I guess my real question is what kind of arcade (not TV) monitor will fit in my candy cabinet without any modification?

[Zebidee]

I guess my real question is what kind of arcade (not TV) monitor will fit in my candy cabinet without any modification?

Read my previous post! You have to look at the back of your original tube and it wouldn't hurt if you had a look at the monitor chassis as well.

The way I described in my last post is probably the most practical and affordable way for you to get an ARCADE MONITOR into your candy shell.

[Jack Burton]

Yup, if you do as Zebidee say you will be switching the tube from your TV from use as TV to an arcade monitor.

This is a literal switch.  There's no part of a TV left in there.  It IS an arcade monitor when you're done.  And if you do it right it's a damn good one too.

A lot of modern TV's, especially brand names, had tubes that were higher quality than most arcade monitors, and especially better than a Makvision or something similar that you might put in there.

I know the people on arcadeotaku and shumps are fond of Nanao MS9's though.  If you were to go that route I'd look for one.  Sanwa makes a good monitor too, or so I've heard.

And of course there is Nieman displays here in the US.

Or even Wells Gardner.  I saw a person put a D9800 into and Egret cab a little while back.

[eastbayarb]

Yup, if you do as Zebidee say you will be switching the tube from your TV from use as TV to an arcade monitor.

This is a literal switch.  There's no part of a TV left in there.  It IS an arcade monitor when you're done.  And if you do it right it's a damn good one too.

A lot of modern TV's, especially brand names, had tubes that were higher quality than most arcade monitors, and especially better than a Makvision or something similar that you might put in there.

I know the people on arcadeotaku and shumps are fond of Nanao MS9's though.  If you were to go that route I'd look for one.  Sanwa makes a good monitor too, or so I've heard.

And of course there is Nieman displays here in the US.

Or even Wells Gardner.  I saw a person put a D9800 into and Egret cab a little while back.

The point is I don't want to replace a tube from a regular TV with another tube from a regular TV. I want a tube from an arcade monitor that will fit in my cab with no modification. I will look into a D9800 or similar.

[Zebidee]

The point is I don't want to replace a tube from a regular TV with another tube from a regular TV. I want a tube from an arcade monitor that will fit in my cab with no modification. I will look into a D9800 or similar.

Arcade monitors tubes are exactly the exactly same as TV tubes.

TV tube = Arcade monitor tube = TV tube

[eastbayarb]

How about a Wells Gardner 9200 ?

edit - tried and doesn't fit

[eastbayarb]

reason I want to get an arcade monitor is because I want to use my PC with ArcadeVGA card to achieve all the different kind of resolutions. Does anyone know of a suitable arcade monitor for my cab? The TV that is in my cab now
is ok, but even with component video (this TV only supports 480i), it is blurry

[Jack Burton]

With this sort of thing it's often necessary to make some modifications to the mounting bracket of the monitor or the mounting plates inside the cabinet. 

How exactly did it not fit?  Did the neckboard hit the back of the back of the cab?

I think these cabs probably came with Wei ya monitors. 

[eastbayarb]

the back of the monitor (metal brace or whatever) hit the back of the cabinet.

[Jack Burton]

a member of arcade otaku had this problem and solved it by removing the metal brackets that go over the back of the chassis.  The neckboard fit with about an inch to spare. 

As long as you don't plan on moving your cab much this is probably an ok solution.

[eastbayarb]

a member of arcade otaku had this problem and solved it by removing the metal brackets that go over the back of the chassis.  The neckboard fit with about an inch to spare. 

As long as you don't plan on moving your cab much this is probably an ok solution.

I tried taking off the metal brackets, but all of a sudden, I heard this strange sound like a baloon that was letting out air. I looked at the back, and some
glass thing in the back was broken. I think the weight of the motherboard pulled on it and broke it

[Jack Burton]

I hope you didn't break the neckboard!

Have you inspected it to see if it has only been pulled out of it's socket?

Make sure the monitor is discharged before attempting to remove it and reseat it if you do.

[eastbayarb]

yep it's broken - already trashed it

[apfelanni]

replacing a broken arcademonitor with a sony pvm or pgm usually is a very bad idea. this type of video monitors are large , heavy , filled 2 the roof with tech and not easy 2 dismantle. use em like they are meant 2 be or leave it in the casing and build a cabinet around it .

the easiest way of arcade monitor substitution is ripping a tv. i replaced several burned tubes and broken arcade chassis in japanese , chinese and eurocabs with philips , toshiba or samsung tubes and tv chassis taken from common brand tvs. if ur naomi tube sucks , use a 29 inch toshiba tv one . it fits 100 % with the mounting holes of ur cabinet . ll u have 2 check is the type of tube , if its curved , semi or pure flat so the bezel will match  . 

there is no difference in picture quality between arcade and tv using rgb 15 khz or rgb 31 khz via vga input , except ur tv doesnt directly support the jamma stuff and has a computerlike osd where everthing can be set via remote control. 

[eastbayarb]

there is no difference in picture quality between arcade and tv using rgb 15 khz or rgb 31 khz via vga input , except ur tv doesnt directly support the jamma stuff and has a computerlike osd where everthing can be set via remote control. 

I disagree. Best a tube TV can do is component, which (unless it is 480p) doesn't compare to pure RGB.

[Zebidee]

Best a tube TV can do is component, which (unless it is 480p) doesn't compare to pure RGB.

Sorry to have to tell you this, but that statement is complete bullsh!t

[Jack Burton]

SCART TV owners would like to have a word with you.  

Additionally, many TV tubes are actually superior in quality compared to arcade tubes.  

And believe it or not there are some 4:3 CRT TV's that can accept 720p and 1080i signals.  

[eastbayarb]

SCART TV owners would like to have a word with you.  

Additionally, many TV tubes are actually superior in quality compared to arcade tubes.  

And believe it or not there are some 4:3 CRT TV's that can accept 720p and 1080i signals.  

I stand corrected then. Now what CRT TV that is 27" 4:3 TV accepts 72op and 1080i (and hopefully 480p as well)?

[Jack Burton]

A quick search yielded these two:

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-TX-R2779H-SlimFit-1080i/dp/B000BP4N5M

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-TXS2782H-Slim-Fit-HDTV/dp/B000F2R5MY/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=tv&qid=1264142149&sr=1-9

I am sure there are a few more.  Sony may have made some in their WEGA line.

Also have a look at this thread:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=94050.0

[Zebidee]

If all I had to work with was a TV that didn't accept RGB (ie not SCART), but had a good tube, then I'd rip out the tube and buy an arcade monitor chassis to match it. I would not be satisfied with component or worse, I think, except possibly for a truly exceptional TV like a Sony Wega.

[eastbayarb]

If all I had to work with was a TV that didn't accept RGB (ie not SCART), but had a good tube, then I'd rip out the tube and buy an arcade monitor chassis to match it. I would not be satisfied with component or worse, I think, except possibly for a truly exceptional TV like a Sony Wega.

is that possible? I never heard of anyone using a non arcade/RGB TV and using an arcade monitor chassis

[Jack Burton]

even de-cased? What are my options for my cab and an arcade/rgb monitor?

Here is the best & most affordable  & practical option:

Find a TV tube of the same dimensions. Go by the number on the back of the original tube (e.g. A68XXXXX) and brand, if possible. The 2nd & 3rd characters refer to size in centimetres (so A68XXXXX refers to a 27inch tube, A72XXXXX = 29inch tube etc).

Buy a new monitor chassis to suit from 8liners.com or www.jomac.com.au. The sellers will tell you what to do if you ask. There are also other threads that tell you how to attach the chassis.

chassis + tube = monitor

Be prepared to adjust the top cover to match your screen, unless you manage to get a tube exactly the right shape/size

Already mentioned in this thread.

It is absolutely possible. 

[eastbayarb]

so are you saying I could use any TV tube with any chassis from an arcade monitor?

I was thinking of getting the Zenith C27V36 since it supports 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i. It even has component and DVI

[Jack Burton]

No, only some tube from tv's will work with some chassis.  I highly doubt any of the HD CRT tubes will be compatible.

I know for a fact that nothing with a trinitron tube will work. 

I think if you care about HD then you should get the tv you like, and convert the RGB video to component.  If done correctly it is almost lossless and does not introduce input lag. 

also keep in mind that some modifications to the mounting brackets in your cab may be necessary for a that tv.

Additionally, the tube is not what makes the difference in resolution, it's the chassis.  It is possible you may be able to get a chassis for the tv that is currently in the cab that supports RGB and high resolutions. 

[apfelanni]

i know a couple of tubes used by arcade manufactures which are also build in consumer tvs . the samsung tubes of japanese candys for example . or some hantarex/ sambers polostar using the 100 % identical philips A66EAK552X44 tubes u find in some grundig tvs or other euro arcades with valvo/philips chassis combos . but even if its not 100 % the same tube it can often be adapted to work . a friend of mine replaced some burned blast city tubes with others he took from metz tvs ( a panasonic tube if i remember correct ) . he used the deflecting unit from his arcade chassis and after some tuning the picture was perfect. but i have to mention that his father is an experienced television guy who helped a lot . as i lack his skills and patients i for the most part take the easy route by kicking the failing arcade chassis into the bucket and apply the tv chassis into the machine.   


if its a high res 4:3 crt your looking for try to get ur hands on a professional monitor like nec or mitsubishi. i ll have 2 of the nec xm2960 in my gaming room for console gaming and one as backup ( i had the idea to abuse it for a cocktail table project , but in the end i found it a little offensive ) . they can display anything from 15-64 khz in superb picture quality. i doubt there are many arcade crts that can keep up with it .