Author Topic: Another Noob's First Project (Read 6620 times)

LilMikey · « **on:** November 30, 2009, 12:20:58 am »

Same story, different day... new guy, been lurking for months, finally getting off my butt. My goal is cheap, good looking, and relatively compact. I have an old computer laying around (Athlon 3ghz, 2gb RAM, 7950gtx) and an old CRT (22" Dell). Ordered the controls last week, nothing too exciting: 2xHapp Comps, 7 buttons a player (4th on bottom for Neo Geo), 5 admin, 4 flipper. I'm trying to get it done by new years. I like the look of Martjin's SF cab and Valiant's cab and sketched out something kinda like it:

Translated to MDF (it grew slightly, hence the remarking):

Guide ready to slice out the back:

Jigsaw from here:

One side done:

MDF + Router = Werewolf:

Love using the router:

Done for today:

The control panel is going to be single-sheet of 5/8 with plexi bolted on and easily removable. Would like to have dedicated trackball and spinner CPs some day... much later. As for artwork, it'll be pretty empty. I'm going with fire-engine red on the sides, white T-Mold, black front and back, no actual artwork, but I intend to place bolt-ins so 3D cutouts can be attached and removed at will. No idea what will go in the marquee and the cp will be artless until the new year.

Have to finish up the DDR pad by Thursday then back to the cab. Would like to have it enclosed-ish by end of next weekend.

Queeg · « **Reply #1 on:** November 30, 2009, 02:50:12 am »

Interesting shape. You're much braver then I incorporating all those curves. Are you going to run a flat board between that top back curve, or are you going to try and bend wood to match it?

I also seem to become a werewolf when the router is run, regardless of the moons size

. There is literally an 8 inch tall pile of MDF dust swept under my workbench in the basement haha. I have had to vacuum about 1000 times as well. To anyone starting with MDF, note the photo above and my comments before starting work anywhere in your home....

anyways nice job, can't wait to see more

Martijn · « **Reply #2 on:** November 30, 2009, 06:16:45 am »

Good luck, if you have any questions pm me

LilMikey · « **Reply #3 on:** November 30, 2009, 08:54:05 am »

Noooo... no bendies. All straight pieces on the front and the back. It'll be up against a wall anyway.

Luckily I cut and routed the MDF in the garage. Weather in STL has been unusually pleasant for this time of year. When I was just cutting I though 'those forum guys are whiners, this isn't that bad'. Then when I got to the routing... wow. I wish I would've purchased a better respirator.

Thanks Martijn! I might take you up on that if things get sticky.

LilMikey · « **Reply #4 on:** December 02, 2009, 01:18:09 am »

Only had a little time today. Assembled the base and casters. The base piece is 3/4" plywood with 2x4 supports underneath. The casters support 175lbs each; I think it's unlikely the finished cab will exceed 700lbs. I had originally wanted to use only 2 rear fixed casters and cut a 2" 45 degree slice out the back so the casters never touched the ground unless the cab was leaned back but I got worried about the weight on the frame at an angle. I'm going to break with tradition a little and put the swivel casters on the back since I'm pretty sure there will be more angular pressure on the front and I can leave enough clearance in back to access the wheel locks.

The sides will be mounted to the base so that the cab only sits about 3/4" off the ground. That puts the 'floor' almost 3" up. The face of the cab starts at the bottom of the sides. The back will stop at the floor.

And the assembled base:

LilMikey · « **Reply #5 on:** December 04, 2009, 02:06:37 am »

I've been stymied by real life the last couple days and only been working on this project a couple hours late at night (often until the wee hours of the morning). Oh yeah, and it got cold as heck here in STL... and my cordless driver died so I've been hand-cranking these screws. I've been working on the interior structure and panel supports:

First I measured out where I wanted the panel boards to hang, that let me know where to install the supports:

Each support was measured, glued, clamped, drilled, and then screwed:

Note: when attaching longer supports make sure you have a clamp near the drill/screw hole you're working on otherwise the board may lift a little:

All screws were counter-sunk and will need to be filled before priming and painting:

And here the main supports are attached. The piece in the middle is the front kick panel and horizontal support. Before any gluing, all of the supports and the panel was attached to the base to ensure a reasonable fit and that the panels would hang against the base as I imagined. Should've taken a pictures of the test-fit. Oh well:

I'll use more 2x2s for horizontal supports and the monitor shelf but the rest of the panel supports will be smaller since none of those will be bearing load and I'm going to use thinner MDF around the top and marquee both to reduce weight and because it should be easier to work with.

LilMikey · « **Reply #6 on:** December 05, 2009, 02:53:28 pm »

Made a lot of good progress yesterday. Got the horizontal supports installed, the monitor shelf built, and the whole thing mounted to the wheeled base.

First the monitor shelf... the base of the shelf is 3/4" plywood. Chosen b/c it's more rigid than MDF and I had a nice 2' wide drop after cutting the 'floor' of the cab. I put a front 'lip on it to theoretically prevent the monitor from sliding forward however that's probably not going to be an issue since it's going to be placed at a angle. That is also where the MDF and plexi will rest when installed with a piece of MDF in the front hiding the ridge:

This monitor had a 1/2" inch gap in the chassis that went all of the way through without obstruction so I took a 1/4" bar from a piece of those wire shelving systems we had laying around that was bound for the trash man and ran it through, then placed a block on each side of the monitor to secure the bar in place. The monitor is quite secure on the shelf:

Also added an additional backstop to support the angle. Here's the completed shelf sans monitor:

The interior supports for the shelf are 2x2s. The front is a horizontal 2x2, 2x 2x2s are glued and screwed into the cabinet sides as shelf 'slides'. Then an additional horizontal 2x2 in the back to stop the shelf in the appropriate place. That backstop 2x2 is screwed into the cabinet sides as well as the glued 'slides':

Finally, here's a test fitting on the monitor shelf. I actually moved it back another inch or so after the fitting but this gives a pretty good idea:

diazsinger · « **Reply #7 on:** December 05, 2009, 08:11:51 pm »

I really like the shape of that! Good job so far, can't wait to see the rest.

LilMikey · « **Reply #8 on:** December 06, 2009, 11:32:27 am »

Thanks! This project is a lot more fun and a lot less agony that I was expecting.

This forum has been great! A virtual encyclopedia of cabinet building knowledge.

monkey puzzle · « **Reply #9 on:** December 07, 2009, 07:25:33 pm »

Nice design, I love the shape with the curves at the top etc. The only thing that doesn't take my fancy is the sharp angle at the front of the cp. Kinda looks like something you wouldn't want to fall and crack your head on. I will probably be proved wrong when its finished though. Other than that I think its brilliant.

Nacimroc · « **Reply #10 on:** December 07, 2009, 09:17:40 pm »

I presume the CP overhangs that point! Be carefull of them sharp points! they get damaed very easily! (If they do get damaged, wood glue is best for fix)

Great job so far, keep up the work and you'll love the rest of the project! Just as you get bored of tsomething its time to do something else! Best hobby ever!

LilMikey · « **Reply #11 on:** December 08, 2009, 01:30:19 am »

Again this is really a couple days' updates in one... a couple hours last night and a couple tonight.

Last night I got the marquee pieces attached. Note, if you're screwing directly into the sides of MDF make sure you pre-drill adequately as MDF splits very easily:

Also put on the top back panel and a horizontal 2x4 between the 2x2 uprights both for additional support and to give both back panels something to attach to:

Tonight I completed the two pieces I was most dreading as they're the only ones that needed to be mitered. First was the cp ledge face. I got the bottom angle very close and left a little extra on the top then sanded it down until it was nice and flat:

The second angle cut is at the top behind the marquee. Since it's in the back it's not real noticeable so I didn't spend a lot of time getting the angle just right. I'll fill it and sand it when I fill all of the screw holes:

And here's where I'm at so far:

LilMikey · « **Reply #12 on:** December 08, 2009, 01:43:02 am »

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Yes, the CP will overhang the font by about 1" and the sides by 1/2" or so... at least in my head. The idea I'm going for is this:

My CP will go into the cab a little more and I'll have more room in front as well so it's going to be a bit deeper over all but the overhang should be about the same. My first CP is just 2x HAPP Comps with 7 buttons aside and 5 admins. It's going to be held on with just a couple bolts and attached through DB25s so swapping it out will be simple. I'm trying to find a way to squeeze in the admin buttons and a static panel so they aren't repeated on every CP but the test fittings I've played with don't really appeal to me and at the cost of 5 buttons per CP I'm thinking I'll just repeat the darn buttons.

Martijn · « **Reply #13 on:** December 08, 2009, 04:43:09 am »

screen cab ratio is a bit off

other then that its beginning to look like a global arcade, except the top, it should be more pointier

LilMikey · « **Reply #14 on:** December 08, 2009, 07:37:17 am »

Quote from: Martijn on December 08, 2009, 04:43:09 am

screen cab ratio is a bit off

other then that its beginning to look like a global arcade, except the top, it should be more pointier

Yeah, it's certainly not an exact match. I had the monitor and PC... and permission from the wife. Liked the general shape of the GAC machine so I ballparked it. Would like to think I'll stumble in to a larger monitor some day in the future but that's probably unlikely. Certainly not matching artwork either. My reported investment in this machine is currently around $250, probably expanding to ~$350 or so after marquee and such. Side and CP art would certainly blow that budget.

LilMikey · « **Reply #15 on:** December 10, 2009, 09:55:09 am »

No updates lately. Last night it was too cold to work in the garage and tomorrow I head out of town for a few days. The only things that have changed since the last update were the marquee bottom was lowered an inch or so and the PC speakers were mounted in that panel, oh and the marquee light was installed.

On an up note, my controls have come in. Can't speak highly enough of DiveMaster! Answered all my questions and got the order out quickly.

As far as I can tell the remaining work is (in no particular order)

Routing and installation of T-Mold (router bit on it's way)
Installation of plexi and screen mask
Creation and installation of CP
Hole and crack filling
Priming and Painting
Marquee retainer/plexi installation
Wiring/PC/Software setup
Artwork

Erik · « **Reply #16 on:** December 10, 2009, 01:21:47 pm »

this looks fantastic. how wide will it be?

LilMikey · « **Reply #17 on:** December 15, 2009, 12:43:28 am »

After a long weekend off I'm back at it again. Bought aluminum L-channel in the ceiling tile section of Home Depot for a marquee retainer and to put a nicer edge on the plexi and monitor matte. Also picked up an LED-bar case lighting kit from Microcenter to use as a marquee light. One great thing about these LED bars is they put off a lot of light without a lot of heat. They also connect to a standard PSU molex connector. If one isn't enough, it will be simple to toss in another.

Since the piece below my marquee is angled I had to bend the retainer a bit. The best way I found to do that was to clamp it in one of those trigger-style clamps and just keep pulling until it's at the desired spread, then just keep working your way down the piece. The L-channel is a bit wide for the retainer but I'm not going to deal with that at this time:

I also have the speakers mounted. There's a 2x2 hiding behind that panel with a single screw into the back of the speaker's plastic case. They have a little wiggle room in there but not enough to worry about and they definitely can't fall out or anything:

I also used a piece of the L channel as the base, where the plexi and monitor matte will sit. Near the top of the cab I have shelf-plugs that keep the plexi/matte near the speaker board. To remove it, all you have to do is slide both pieces up high enough to clear the L channel and angle out.

Here's the monitor set up with the plexi/matte.

To finish off the night I started filling holes with wood filler:

Both my slot cutter and forstner bit came in so in the next few days I should have the slot and CP done. After that it's a matter of painting and sanding and then dealing with the PC and electronics side.

LilMikey · « **Reply #18 on:** December 15, 2009, 12:45:45 am »

Quote from: Peab0dy on December 10, 2009, 01:21:47 pm

this looks fantastic. how wide will it be?

24" on the inside, 25.25" outside, and ~26 at the widest point (CP)

Queeg · « **Reply #19 on:** December 15, 2009, 02:37:28 pm »

Looking great. Please let us know how well that led strip lights the marquee. Even with a mostly white area my marquee is still pretty dim with an 18" florescent. I also have extra tubes laying around so if yours works I might have to change it up.

LilMikey · « **Reply #20 on:** December 20, 2009, 01:35:40 am »

Had some free time the past couple days and got a lot done. Pretty much the entire enclosure including the CP is finished.

First stop was the T-Molding slot. Actually, the CP was cut before the slot as it had to be slotted as well. A good respirator and a well ventilated work location are key... I had neither. In fact, I think the dust from the routing combined with the space heater I'm using in the garage is actually quite a fire hazard. You can see burnt dust on top of lightbulbs out there:

Here's how the CP will fit onto the body:

There's ~ 3/4" overhang on the front, 1/4 on the sides:

Layed out and poster-printed the layout in illustrator. That worked well although the forstner torn the heck out of the paper so I ended up just marking the centers with a screw.

I tossed some buttons in to show the wife. I don't think she was too awful impressed. The two reds are for old 8-bit Nintendo. There will likely be a lot of Nintendo played on this cab. The joystick mounts (Happ Competitions) will be bottom mounted, about 1/4" is routed out:

Got the first few layers of primer on as well. Two layers all-around, three on the sides. Applied it with a foam roller mainly because I couldn't find a usable brush. The foam rollers from Harbor Freight are real junk. They shed easily and hold their shape poorly. I'll be getting a decent roller before the 'real' painting starts:

And here's the bolt-on back panel, monitor matte, and cp all primed as well.

Should have some time tomorrow. Would like to get a coat of the shiny stuff on.

LilMikey · « **Reply #21 on:** December 30, 2009, 04:24:28 pm »

Well, the cab is effectively 'finished for now' - apart from software tinkering. It's been a real headache since the last update. It's been freezing here in STL and my first coat of enamel dried very poorly. It appears that it doesn't flatten as well in the cold. The latex just plain froze solid and was unusable. I ended up pulling the cab into the basement for painting but the ventilation there isn't great and it stunk up the house something fierce. As such, I'm 2 or 3 coats shy of where I'd like to be. Maybe in the spring I'll haul it out and 'finish' it proper but until then it's not too bad. The last 10 days were also holiday season, I landed a new job, and I'm sick.

I also cut a corner with the electronics for now. I intend to using DB-25s and DB-9s to connect the panel controls to the IPac to make panel swapping easier but my soldering iron is AWOL and with my being sick I didn't really feel like taking the time to solder all those connections anyway so I wired the disconnects straight to the IPac. They just screw in so it won't be any more work to attach the DB-25s later than it would be to do it now and it'll probably be months before I make another panel.

Last, but not least, I still don't know what I want to shove up in the marquee or on the sides so I just left the retainer off for now.

Here are the pics:

bigpete405 · « **Reply #22 on:** December 31, 2009, 12:44:02 am »

that looks real nice. The bezel came out awesome. Great work

emphatic · « **Reply #23 on:** December 31, 2009, 06:48:19 am »

White cabs are so nice!

painterinfo · « **Reply #24 on:** December 31, 2009, 07:24:39 am »

White does look pretty good I think, I could almost be tempted to leave mine white (have under coated it) at the moment except I have already purchased the colour.

bgspot · « **Reply #25 on:** December 31, 2009, 11:19:05 am »

Excellent work, especially for a first time project. I'm assuming you don't plan to add a coin door. Even if it's nonfunctional it will add that final touch.

LilMikey · « **Reply #26 on:** January 01, 2010, 10:23:43 am »

Thanks for the feedback guys! Couldn't have done it without these forums.

I'm extremely pleased with the bezel. It turned out being very easy as well. The white sides are drop ceiling retainers, they're just sitting there held in place only by the sides. That's followed by a thin sheet of plexi, with 1/4" MDF under that. It sits about 3/4" from the monitor's bezel. The retainers match the T-molding pretty closely and the sunken bezel makes the monitor feel larger than it is. There's a couple shelving pegs at the top so the sheets slide on the shelving pegs up into the cab then sit in another ceiling retainer at the bottom. To take it off, just remove the CP and slide the whole thing up and inch and out. Does tend to scrape the black a bit when you do that though.

The white paint has worked out well. Even though it's a few coats shy it still looks great unless your inches from it. I was originally going to go with red sides, glad I switched to white. In the spring I'd like to finish up the painting.

I'll likely add a coin door some day but as for now it would've increased my cost by about 10%. The first thing I'm going to do is add surface mount power plug, power button, and USB jacks in the rear... after putting in a few hours of gameplay of course.

LilMikey · « **Reply #27 on:** January 21, 2010, 12:01:27 am »

The Cab's been running great for the last few weeks. I'm still working on the software side. Most of the emulators are working fine but I'm still working through the plethora of frontends. I'm down to MaLa, Atomic FE or Maximus Arcade leaning towards MaLa.

I did come up with a very cheap, very temporary side art solution. I bought static-cling inkjet printable paper, printed some graphics, cut them out with an exacto, and stuck 'em right on. It looks decent, stays on alright, and peels off with no adhesive or other markings on the cab. It'll certainly do until spring when I can finish the paint and come up with something more permanent.

Here are the sides:

I also took the time to improve on the wiring. I put the iPac in an enclosure, adding a couple DB-25s and ran the USB cable into the box. So now I have the iPac, controls, PS2 adapter, and DDR dance pad all compatible and connectable using DB25s.

On a side note, I took my marquee art in to Kinkos to be printed (I'm going with a '1up' theme like the first side-art image). They proofed it for me but what they handed me had washed out printing on the matte side of the paper with the gloss on the back. I'm quite certain they printed it on the wrong side and when I questioned them they said nope, can only print on the matte side. Their own sample was glossy... whatever, I'm going with someone who knows what they're doing.

painterinfo · « **Reply #28 on:** January 21, 2010, 04:55:10 am »

The white gloss looks really good, better than I imagined, and I really like the side art in particular the 3d space invader.
Cab looks like a bought one.

LilMikey · « **Reply #29 on:** January 21, 2010, 08:32:12 am »

Thanks! I liked the invaders too but with their little legs and antenna and the fact that they're only being held on by static, sometimes the small ones start to pull off. I think I'm going to drop the small invaders, drop mario and friends from the other side and just keep the one big main image on each side... and the logos. I should've taken more time to align all the art but hey, it peels right off and sticks on again so no big deal.

Regardless, the static sheets were about $20 for 10 of them shipped. I've used 5 or 6 on the art that's there now. Not bad for effectively $12 in materials.

Silas (son of Silas) · « **Reply #30 on:** January 22, 2010, 05:58:17 am »

The enclosure for the iPac is very tidy work. Nice!

Mysteriozone · « **Reply #31 on:** January 24, 2010, 08:40:44 am »

That is VERY impressive!

Shortbus · « **Reply #32 on:** January 24, 2010, 11:28:10 am »

Very Cool. like the color, side-art as well as the ipac enclosure.....looking great!


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