Author Topic: Atari Xevious Bartop 10" VGA CRT (Read 71157 times)

retrofuture · « **Reply #120 on:** August 22, 2009, 05:41:28 pm »

I made some progress today (albeit small

). I dismantled on cab and spray puttied the inside of one side. Rubbed down, sprayed black and applied the vinyl. One small problem is I can't find the holes to replace the screen plexi retaining block

No matter how hard I squeegee the vinyl I just can't seem to find them...

The bottom is now painted and vinyl applied to the bottom rear panel (where the service and power inlet are housed.

Man, this is taking a long time

polaris · « **Reply #121 on:** August 22, 2009, 09:29:10 pm »

where did you get the spray putty, i think i saw some in B&Q but i'm convinced it was in a dream cos b&q is so ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.

retrofuture · « **Reply #122 on:** August 23, 2009, 06:26:31 am »

eBay. Simoniz Spray putty, I think I paid £11 for two cans inc postage. It's just filler primer though so Halfords own brand is the same (although £7 a can is a rip-off).

Grasshopper · « **Reply #123 on:** August 24, 2009, 02:11:57 pm »

Wow. Nice job. I'm particularly impressed with the artwork.

And it's nice to know that there's a UK company that can produce arcade quality CPOs. I thought I'd have to import a CPO from the States.

retrofuture · « **Reply #124 on:** August 24, 2009, 04:01:36 pm »

Nigel's a good bloke wit great feedback from other Jamma+ members. Give him a try, you won't regret it!

retrofuture · « **Reply #125 on:** August 24, 2009, 05:25:48 pm »

Quote from: Grasshopper on August 24, 2009, 02:11:57 pm

Wow. Nice job. I'm particularly impressed with the artwork.

Thanks Grasshopper. I'm okay with artwork - it's the woodwork I'm a novice with

Still, they're better than I ever imagined (crosses fingers and falls on bended knees

, before making a right royal

-up.

retrofuture · « **Reply #126 on:** August 25, 2009, 01:52:24 pm »

The vinyl's coming along' After the 'deconstruction' the first inside and base were sprayed with putty, sanded (repeat), and then sprayed black so to not have any see-through from the vinyl.

Here's the base with feet attached:

retrofuture · « **Reply #127 on:** August 25, 2009, 01:58:33 pm »

Next the top door was sprayed etc. and vinyl attached. The vent grille and lock were then re-applied and the door assembly (piano hinge), was re-attached:

retrofuture · « **Reply #128 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:13:04 pm »

I wasn't looking forward to applying the CPO vinyl in the slightest. I should have had crosses marking the buttons (and not just the joystick). I'll do that in future builds!

I really though that I'd

it up at one point, but I'm really happy with how it turned out in the end:

It's (well the first cab anyway

) starting to really take shape now.

I can't wait to take the Solvalou for a spin.

retrofuture · « **Reply #129 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:43:57 pm »

I've applied the vinyl on the second inside-side and cut the bezel to fit. I've left some vertical leeway to accomidate the position of the monitor. I'm going to have to build a card shroud to contain the light leakage.

I think i'll buy some aluminium cones from David at RAM Controls to replace the plastic ones I have here.

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #130 on:** August 25, 2009, 02:52:34 pm »

Very nice!!! I like!

saleem · « **Reply #131 on:** August 25, 2009, 03:00:53 pm »

i think you say your going to make this a multigamma game,is that correct or you had any changes of heart?

assuming that you will just stick a switching power supply a jamma harness/loom and what about the monitor?what are you thinking about with regards powering the monitor?

is there only one type of multiboard your thinking about or are there several,icade etc.

i assume its the 60in1 as thats the only one for vertical isnt it?

i thought about 60in1 for my upright,its monitor is already switched verticaly (by me) in readiness for when i take the £70+ dive for it!

the sides,what do you intend to do with the sides,paint,spray?

i thought i would try out some kind of laminate or alternative covering when i finish my bartop project.

retrofuture · « **Reply #132 on:** August 25, 2009, 03:46:40 pm »

Thanks HarumaN

Saleem, I've got a couple of 48-in-1 Jamma boards go in the cabs. They run off PC PSUs (I've got a couple of mini ATX PSUs for these cabs). The 60-in-1 boards have superceeded these, but since I'm not intending to use any trackball games, the 48's will do just fine for these cabs.

I've got a couple of Jamma looms to use on the project.

The sideart vinyls are printed already. I haven't had a chance to post pics yet

Ryglore · « **Reply #133 on:** August 25, 2009, 11:05:23 pm »

Looks amazing!!! Now get that side art on there!

Grasshopper · « **Reply #134 on:** August 26, 2009, 02:48:33 pm »

Hi Retrofuture, I've got a quick question if you don't mind.

I notice you're using plain black vinyl for some parts of the cabinet. Did that also come from arcadestickers, or do you have another source?

retrofuture · « **Reply #135 on:** August 26, 2009, 02:54:14 pm »

Hi Grasshopper, I created some large black (CMYK), files using the background colour of the CPO. Nigel at ArcadeStickers then ran them out for me. The whole cab now matches.

Grasshopper · « **Reply #136 on:** August 26, 2009, 03:04:24 pm »

I see. So does the vinyl have a natural colour, or it is transparent?

I notice you've also used it for the marquee. Does that mean it lets light through?

retrofuture · « **Reply #137 on:** August 26, 2009, 06:22:16 pm »

The 'black' vinyl is printed on a black substrate (i.e., if you cut it it's black throughout). The marquee is printed on backlit material - that is that it lets light through the lighter (white etc.), areas.

retrofuture · « **Reply #138 on:** August 27, 2009, 06:16:08 pm »

I wired up the first cab yesterday... and played some games! The screen looks great behind the 3mm clear and 5mm tinted plexi. My 5 year old daughter loves it (which makes it all worth while). I don't know whether the monitor shroud is needed now.

I've run out of the black vinyl for the second cab though, the inside left side panel is looking somewhat bare

I'm hoping to get some more printed up soon.

One minor gripe with the monitors is that when they are powered up initially, at the same time as the 48-in-1, they don't seem to receive a signal. If I unplug them and then re power then everything is fine.

Does anyone out there know of a way to delay power to the monitor for a few seconds?

My guess is that the Jamma board isn't transmitting a signal the instant it's powered on, leading to the monitor going into a standby mode.

leapinlew · « **Reply #139 on:** August 28, 2009, 11:18:31 pm »

weird. Seems that when the 48-n-1 does send a signal, the monitor would power on. Do both 48's do that?

It's not as clean as you would like, but you could add a power switch for the monitor.

retrofuture · « **Reply #140 on:** August 29, 2009, 05:11:06 am »

Yep, unfortunately both 48s do the same

If it comes to it then I may have to install a seperate switch.

Shortbus · « **Reply #141 on:** August 29, 2009, 11:34:02 am »

Extremely cool project, I'm following closely, can't wait for updates.....Nice Work !!!!

opt2not · « **Reply #142 on:** September 03, 2009, 10:10:33 pm »

This thing is turning out to be really sexy! Good job so far, you're almost there!

Quote from: retrofuture on August 25, 2009, 03:46:40 pm

Saleem, I've got a couple of 48-in-1 Jamma boards go in the cabs. They run off PC PSUs (I've got a couple of mini ATX PSUs for these cabs). The 60-in-1 boards have superceeded these, but since I'm not intending to use any trackball games, the 48's will do just fine for these cabs.

If I remember correctly, there should be settings to filter out the game list on those 48-in-1 boards so you don't have to have them displayed in the menu. Though I can't recall entirely...

retrofuture · « **Reply #143 on:** September 05, 2009, 06:16:40 pm »

Quote from: opt2not on September 03, 2009, 10:10:33 pm

This thing is turning out to be really sexy! Good job so far, you're almost there!

Quote from: retrofuture on August 25, 2009, 03:46:40 pm

Saleem, I've got a couple of 48-in-1 Jamma boards go in the cabs. They run off PC PSUs (I've got a couple of mini ATX PSUs for these cabs). The 60-in-1 boards have superceeded these, but since I'm not intending to use any trackball games, the 48's will do just fine for these cabs.

If I remember correctly, there should be settings to filter out the game list on those 48-in-1 boards so you don't have to have them displayed in the menu. Though I can't recall entirely...

Yes you can. You can strip the board down to play a single game if you so wished.

Turnarcades · « **Reply #144 on:** September 08, 2009, 07:48:05 pm »

Nice to see a Brit project this good and I've found the artwork printing link useful. For less conspicuous areas, Black Fablon should do the trick and be cheaper than getting more vinyl printed, and as for your power issue, both Argos and Maplin sell a sort of Smartstrip that powers on devices with a delay, so you should look there.

retrofuture · « **Reply #145 on:** September 09, 2009, 05:19:23 pm »

Quote from: Turnarcades on September 08, 2009, 07:48:05 pm

Nice to see a Brit project this good and I've found the artwork printing link useful. For less conspicuous areas, Black Fablon should do the trick and be cheaper than getting more vinyl printed, and as for your power issue, both Argos and Maplin sell a sort of Smartstrip that powers on devices with a delay, so you should look there.

Thanks! The way that the monitor an PSU are both wired up to the mains inlet means that I'm after an in-line delay circuit (relay delay?). Unfortunately the Smartstrip style plugs, although they would give a 5 second delay, wouldn't fit inside the cabs. I'm having a look at some from RS...

I've got some black fablon, but since I've managed to cover all the panels apart from one inside, I'm hoping that Nigel comes back to me with the extra sheet.

retrofuture · « **Reply #146 on:** March 18, 2010, 04:00:16 pm »

Well six months have passed and due to umpteen circumstances interfering it's now back on track.

After searching for delay timers here's what I've come up with:

A dial-in timer allows for changing the power delay and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. £5 in comparison to £40 plus for a rack-mount component. Now to see if it works...

retrofuture · « **Reply #147 on:** March 18, 2010, 04:45:03 pm »

I've installed the marquee and applied one side of sideart tonight on one of the cabs. It's all coming together at last

Please excuse the dust.

retrofuture · « **Reply #148 on:** March 18, 2010, 04:47:26 pm »

I'll get some more professional photos taken when they're complete

.

retrofuture · « **Reply #149 on:** March 18, 2010, 05:31:41 pm »

I've used some black pica vinyl from Happ to cover the inside panel after Nigel didn't come through. It's a perfect match, although the cost of importing makes it somewhat expensive.

emphatic · « **Reply #150 on:** March 18, 2010, 06:21:19 pm »

Looking forward to seeing it running games!

opt2not · « **Reply #151 on:** March 19, 2010, 12:05:22 am »

Definitely my pick for best looking bartop.

This looks so good!!

I'm interested in seeing how that delay timer turns out for you.

Man, I can't stop staring at those pictures. This thing is going to be triple-A when it's done.

Epyx · « **Reply #152 on:** March 19, 2010, 12:12:10 am »

Ya, I gotta agree. This thing is sweet!

One of my favourite games of all time and arguably one of Atari's finest cab designs and now in bartop form

How are you handling the sides? Paint, laminate?

opt2not · « **Reply #153 on:** March 19, 2010, 02:20:42 am »

I forgot to ask, are you still planning on replacing the plastic cone buttons on the CP with chrome ones? If you are, might i suggest getting chrome t-molding to match? I've had considerable fortune using the chrome t-molding on my El Diablo Mechanico cabinet, it really makes the cabinet look sleek & sexy. I can foresee your Xevious looking amazing from that chrome reflection/shine of the joystick shaft, cones, and t-molding all together.

Yeah, another suggestion from me again...i just really like this project.

retrofuture · « **Reply #154 on:** March 19, 2010, 01:32:59 pm »

Quote from: opt2not on March 19, 2010, 12:05:22 am

Definitely my pick for best looking bartop.
This looks so good!!

I'm interested in seeing how that delay timer turns out for you.

Man, I can't stop staring at those pictures. This thing is going to be triple-A when it's done.

Thanks. I'm wondering if the delay timer works too!

retrofuture · « **Reply #155 on:** March 19, 2010, 01:34:50 pm »

Quote from: Epyx on March 19, 2010, 12:12:10 am

Ya, I gotta agree. This thing is sweet!

One of my favourite games of all time and arguably one of Atari's finest cab designs and now in bartop form

How are you handling the sides? Paint, laminate?

The sides are sprayed with putty, rubbed down and sprayed white. The vinyl is then applied with panic in my eyes

retrofuture · « **Reply #156 on:** March 19, 2010, 01:36:41 pm »

Quote from: opt2not on March 19, 2010, 02:20:42 am

I forgot to ask, are you still planning on replacing the plastic cone buttons on the CP with chrome ones? If you are, might i suggest getting chrome t-molding to match? I've had considerable fortune using the chrome t-molding on my El Diablo Mechanico cabinet, it really makes the cabinet look sleek & sexy. I can foresee your Xevious looking amazing from that chrome reflection/shine of the joystick shaft, cones, and t-molding all together.

Yeah, another suggestion from me again...i just really like this project.

The cones are original black plastic Atari. I'm trying to keep it as original as possible.

Black T-molding as per original...

Ryglore · « **Reply #157 on:** March 19, 2010, 05:13:11 pm »

Man I still love this project. Makes me wish I had some sweet bartop idea cooking...

taylormadelv · « **Reply #158 on:** March 20, 2010, 01:19:25 pm »

I want one! That looks soooo cool!

retrofuture · « **Reply #159 on:** March 27, 2010, 02:43:37 pm »

Side two of the artwork's on. Looking good.

I need to wire up this cab now, wait for it to stop raining, apply sideart to cab one and then the t-molding can go on.


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