Testing waters ... Interest in CP blanks for Lindstrom plans (Pac Cocktail 11")?

[Curbfeeler]

I've made some calls, and I'm about to buy the materials to make a few Bally cocktail control panel blanks.  I'll be making out of aluminum .05 stock which is equiv to the original 16ga Bally CP material, except the originals were hardened steel.  I have no way to cut/drill/bend the steel, so I'm going with aluminum.  For a CP that's only 11" wide it will be plenty strong enough for game play.

My thought is that if there is interest from some of you out there that I would just make a run of these and sell for 20 dollars/set plus actual shipping.  A set of blanks on the internet currently runs 60 dollars.

Let me know here or PM if this is something some of you would like to see.  My cab is an original Pac cocktail, so I'd be using an original as a template and making to exact size.  They would fit Kyle Lindstrom's plans as well, of course.

Dan

[matman]

Funny, I'm attempting the same thing.  Except all I have is Kyle's plans to go by, no originals.  I picked up a sheet from the hardware store for $20 (16Ga aluminum) that should cover both sides.  My plan was to use a 5/16" router bit along an edge of a 2X4 and use that as my curve to bend along from within a vise (or with another 2X4 on the other side screwed together).

I'm not exactly sure how i plan to cut it.  Coincidentally, i was just looking at the plans 2 minutes ago and was trying to figure out the support underneath(inside?) the cp "steel" (Item 16) - that piece confuses me, but I wonder with aluminum it will require better or increased support from the original plans?

Is your plan to just paint them black?

Matt

[BASS!]

c'mon if your going to custom make a panel out of metal, at least check in to powder coating:-)

[Curbfeeler]

Yes, I was just planning to prime and paint with the rustoleum satin black, which by most accounts is dead on the original bally.

As far as cutting, you can reverse the blade on your table saw and set the depth of your blade to just above the thickness of the alum.  That should get through this material and give a nice edge.  the table saw blade will tear/rip too much as-is and may melt.  I have the ability to set RPM on my table saw which will help, but most don't.  You can also use a scroll saw with a sheet metal blade, but you'd want to make sure you clamp down and follow a straight edge (see sticky in woodworking section) as scroll saw on metal is just asking for wavy cuts.

I've got a contractor who has built room additions for me, and we have a good relationship.  He's agreed to bend for me on his $3000 alum brake which is a must for this job.  I don't think you'll have luck hand bending this material with the old "hammer and a 2x4" method or any other manual method I can think of.

As for strength, I think the alum will be fine with no backing.  We're talking about joystick use and pushing buttons.  An 11" wide piece of alum will not need any kind of additional reinforcement.  IMHO, of course.

I figure I'll spend 60-70 on raw materials and will need to pay my guy 50 for the bending.  From that I think I can yield 10 or so CP. I'm hoping that if I sold a handful at $20 per set then I could defer a lot of my cost and everyone could benefit.  A powder coat might not be bad, but I'd need to price it and see what it adds per-unit.  My guess is nobody is interested above $30 shipped but may be wrong.

Good luck to all.  Let me know if I'm hitting on something people are interested in.  I may proceed anyway, just to see what I get.
dan

[Popcorrin]

Definitely interested.

The only problem is that aluminum can be difficult to get paint to stick to.  Etching primer is a necessity, but even with etching primer I haven't always been 100% successful getting the paint to stick.

[whammoed]

Definitely interested.

The only problem is that aluminum can be difficult to get paint to stick to.  Etching primer is a necessity, but even with etching primer I haven't always been 100% successful getting the paint to stick.

Galvanized steel is difficult to paint as well.  Both galavanized steel and aluminum can produce outgassing when powdercoated.
Cold rolled steel takes finish best (although it will surface rust before finish is applied)

[Curbfeeler]

I was wondering about the alum and paint but wasn't sure.

Maybe the FS thread isn't the place to discuss this.  I've been researching cut-to-order cold rolled, powder coat, and a $199 brake from Harbor Freight, but those are all more expensive options, and I'd have to sell a lot of these to make the cost back.  I was thinking of using alum and selling 10 sets and breaking even.  I don't really want to go into business here

[rockin_rick]

Are you sure a brake is the right tool for this job?  Looking at pics of the CP, the bend isn't sharp, it's softer with a larger radius.  Honestly, I don't know if a brake can do softer bends - I always had the impression that they only did sharper.  Just look into this before diving in.  Hate for ya to do all of this and have the panels not be right then be stuck with them.  A lot of people are picky...

Good luck,
Rick

[mytymaus007]

i need a sheet 4x6 about , but i need to cut out 2x4 recangle from the middle can anyone help with this any willing to do it or suggest how to cut it