Author Topic: Dig Dug Restoration by a Complete Noob (Read 20673 times)

Pop Culture Portal · « **on:** March 09, 2009, 12:39:20 am »

I'm really needing some help and hope you guys can hold my hand through the majority of this restoration as I am completely new at this.

I bought several games about a year ago and am just now getting around to working on some of them. The Dig Dug that I bought for about $75 worked at one time according to the guy I bought it from. He said he didn't have time to fix it. Since it hasn't been hacked/converted into something else, everything appears to be intact.

I get it home, turn it on but there is no picture...only a gentle hum. I figure it probably could use a cap kit. I've read up on cap kits and am pretty confident that I can do it, including discharging the monitor. I'm looking around inside the cabinet at the monitor and notice that there are several cracks/breaks in the monitor board where it is attached/screwed into the monitor chassis. I can post pictures later if needed.

Now for the stupid question...do I need a new monitor for this poor machine or can I just replace the board? It looks like it has a G07 monitor in it (I think). If I get a new monitor, what would be the best kind for Dig Dig?

Level42 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 09, 2009, 06:30:20 am »

It just so happens that FrizzleFried has a working G07 chassis for sale:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90183.0

Monitors are not game specific. (unless we're talking vectors or mid-res monitors) so you can swap them around at will (apart from the connectors that can be different of course).

I would get that chassis from the Frizz and be done with it.

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2009, 09:49:12 am »

Awesome! PM sent to FrizzleFried.

SirPeale · « **Reply #3 on:** March 10, 2009, 01:24:47 pm »

Hold up...

Does the game play blind? When you coin it up does it do anything at all?

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #4 on:** March 12, 2009, 10:44:51 am »

Nope, nothing at all...coin door, marquee and the like light up, but nothing else. It still has the "Big Blue" in it and I plan on changing that out soon as I get an order to Bob Roberts, but I don't know if that has anything to do with it. $:-\$

ChadTower · « **Reply #5 on:** March 12, 2009, 12:28:17 pm »

Big blue might eventually lead to a failure but a bad big blue alone isn't going to cause a boot failure. You need to start by checking voltages off the transformer and at various test points up to the game PCB. Make sure your PCB is getting proper voltages - won't play without them.

Have you checked the fuses? Do you know how to use a multimeter?

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #6 on:** March 12, 2009, 01:06:10 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on March 12, 2009, 12:28:17 pm

Do you know how to use a multimeter?

Enough to be dangerous.

I have a digital multimeter. Should I set it to the continuity setting to test the fuses? And which fuses do I test first? I see them on the power supply and the monitor board...and what numbers are "good" when I read the multimeter?

And thanks for all the help.

ChadTower · « **Reply #7 on:** March 12, 2009, 01:21:51 pm »

Check the fuses on continuity. There won't be a number, it will just beep which is good. No beep is bad. Order of testing fuses doesn't matter but be sure to pull them before testing.

Read this thread and the links inside it

And consider buying Randy Fromm's arcade repair videos. They are worth the money if you have multiple cabs to repair.

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #8 on:** March 12, 2009, 02:40:25 pm »

I just looked at Randy Fromm's website the other night and those books are definitely something I should invest in...and thanks ChadTower for the thread link!

OK, I've tested all the fuses I see...6 on the power supply and one on the video board (shouldn't there be two?). All fuses "beeped."

Also, there's no sound coming from the game. I also read somewhere that the neck on the monitor is supposed to "glow." I don't see any kind of glow on this monitor.

Level42 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 12, 2009, 03:29:07 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on March 12, 2009, 01:21:51 pm

Order of testing fuses doesn't matter but be sure to pull them before testing.

No, no, no, checking fuses is done WITH NO POWER CONNECTED, but at the fuse _holders_.

This way, you will also know if the contact between fuse and fuseholder is OK.

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #10 on:** March 12, 2009, 03:43:44 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on March 12, 2009, 03:29:07 pm

Quote from: ChadTower on March 12, 2009, 01:21:51 pm
Order of testing fuses doesn't matter but be sure to pull them before testing.
No, no, no, checking fuses is done WITH NO POWER CONNECTED, but at the fuse _holders_.

This way, you will also know if the contact between fuse and fuseholder is OK.

Gotcha...all fuses still beep while in the holder.

Does anyone have a picture/guide as to how the harness connects into the monitor?

EDIT: Damn...this is a Sanyo 20-EZY monitor, not a GO7. It says on the chassis:

MODEL NO. 20 EZY
MANUFACTURED APRIL 1982
CRT TYPE
51OUTB22

Level42 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 12, 2009, 06:12:09 pm »

Great monitor IMHO but I bet the G07 chassis won't work on that one.

We _are_ talking about an Atari Dig Dug right ? If so probably not factory.

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #12 on:** March 12, 2009, 06:34:28 pm »

Yup, Atari Dig Dug...I'll post lots of pictures momentarily.

I can always use spare parts like the GO7.

ChadTower · « **Reply #13 on:** March 12, 2009, 06:42:06 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on March 12, 2009, 03:29:07 pm

No, no, no, checking fuses is done WITH NO POWER CONNECTED, but at the fuse _holders_.

This way, you will also know if the contact between fuse and fuseholder is OK.

You can get false positives checking fuses still in the circuit.

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #14 on:** March 12, 2009, 07:30:31 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on March 12, 2009, 06:42:06 pm

Quote from: Level42 on March 12, 2009, 03:29:07 pm
No, no, no, checking fuses is done WITH NO POWER CONNECTED, but at the fuse _holders_.

This way, you will also know if the contact between fuse and fuseholder is OK.

You can get false positives checking fuses still in the circuit.

I actually did it both ways and got "beeps" all around. Finally the photos:

The monitor:

Cracks in the monitor board can be seen in the upper corner:

There are four dangling wires not connected to anything, but I don't see where they might go. One looks like a ground wire, two are coming off of the monitor wires/harness, and the fourth is a wire coming directly from the PCB. The red wire from the PCB can be seen in the second picture near the top right of the picture:

Do these help?

ChadTower · « **Reply #15 on:** March 12, 2009, 07:38:43 pm »

The dangling connectors are your video signal wires... they would attach to the monitor chassis.

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #16 on:** March 12, 2009, 08:11:37 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on March 12, 2009, 07:38:43 pm

The dangling connectors are your video signal wires... they would attach to the monitor chassis.

Holy smokes...

Well, I AM new at this. I plead ignorance!

I still don't see any place for them to "plug in" to the chassis.

Mauzy · « **Reply #17 on:** March 12, 2009, 08:47:03 pm »

Quote from: Pop Culture Portal on March 12, 2009, 08:11:37 pm

Quote from: ChadTower on March 12, 2009, 07:38:43 pm

The dangling connectors are your video signal wires... they would attach to the monitor chassis.

Holy smokes...

Well, I AM new at this. I plead ignorance!

I still don't see any place for them to "plug in" to the chassis.

Heh-we're all new once.

If you can't find it, post a picture on as much of the board as you can fit in a component-side shot (i.e. the "top" of the board) and we can help you find that connector. Needless to say, that is a very important connection!

As for that corner break, you need to make sure no contacts on the bottom of that board are shorting to the metal frame. A rubber spacer is probably a good idea in this situation.

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #18 on:** March 12, 2009, 09:15:03 pm »

Hopefully these are good enough...

Mauzy · « **Reply #19 on:** March 12, 2009, 09:24:57 pm »

Oh wow thats...strange. I can't seem to find the input either. Maybe someone else on here can - maybe Chad has better eyes than me. If you still can't find it after a day or so, post it over in the monitor forum. Surely someone over there knows where to find it.

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #20 on:** March 12, 2009, 09:35:01 pm »

Yeah, I'm assuming I'm looking for male input "parts" since the dangling wires have female plugs...really weird.

EDIT: Added a topic over at the Monitor threads...

Mauzy · « **Reply #21 on:** March 12, 2009, 10:13:48 pm »

Exactly. Usually it sticks out like a sore thumb. Maybe you're missing something. Honestly, I've never seen this monitor before.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #22 on:** March 12, 2009, 10:20:20 pm »

That's a version of the Sanyo that does not have the inversion board. (which I don't believe you need by the looks of the chassis configuration)

The video input is marked with green arrows, follow that bundle of white wires back down towards the game pcb and show us what you have going on there.
It should all be tied in together with those dangling loose wires somehow. Those are a standard style connection, but that particular monitor does not accept them directly.

As for the monitor itself.....
Do you hear the static startup?
Does the neck of the tube have any glow?

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #23 on:** March 12, 2009, 11:43:35 pm »

Here are close-ups of the wires:

There are actually two green wires; one goes to the PCB and the other goes to one of the disconnected female plugs (the larger of the two) that you can see in the first picture.

In the second picture, you can see the green wire go into the connection for the PCB. You can also see the red wire with a male plug coming out directly from the PCB.

The third picture just shows the PCB and the harness attached to it. The green wire ends there.

I hear no sound (except for the marquee light coming on) when the machine is turned on...no crackling, no humming. And I'm assuming the neck glow would be obvious...I don't see anything glowing.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #24 on:** March 13, 2009, 02:37:54 am »

I'm assuming the connectors I circled in green are tied into the connector I circled in red somehow.
Is that correct?

You need to check for AC power at the connector I pointed at with the red arrow.
That is what feeds the monitor power.
If the power is good there, then you'll have to move into the monitor repair side of things.
(and of course check for any fuses in the bottom of the cabinet as well if it's not good)

Level42 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 13, 2009, 06:43:17 am »

Quote from: ChadTower on March 12, 2009, 06:42:06 pm

Quote from: Level42 on March 12, 2009, 03:29:07 pm
No, no, no, checking fuses is done WITH NO POWER CONNECTED, but at the fuse _holders_.

This way, you will also know if the contact between fuse and fuseholder is OK.

You can get false positives checking fuses still in the circuit.

Very rare. That's also why I use Ohms and not the continuity setting.

ChadTower · « **Reply #26 on:** March 13, 2009, 10:19:51 am »

Quote from: Level42 on March 13, 2009, 06:43:17 am

Very rare. That's also why I use Ohms and not the continuity setting.

My experience has been different. It's not common but it can happen and it takes two seconds to pull a fuse. It happens a lot more in pinball machines I've noticed with so many more fuses and more fuses on PCBs. Here is a decent discussion on the idea.

I'm not familiar with this monitor... could he be missing a signal PCB and that's where the game signals would go?

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #27 on:** March 13, 2009, 11:17:12 am »

Quote from: Kevin Mullins on March 13, 2009, 02:37:54 am

I'm assuming the connectors I circled in green are tied into the connector I circled in red somehow.
Is that correct?

You need to check for AC power at the connector I pointed at with the red arrow.
That is what feeds the monitor power.
If the power is good there, then you'll have to move into the monitor repair side of things.
(and of course check for any fuses in the bottom of the cabinet as well if it's not good)

The connectors circled in green go directly to the connector in red.

I checked the AC power at the connector with the red arrow and I'm getting a reading of 1.048. Does that seem right? I also check all the fuses at the power supply and they are all good.

Neverending Project · « **Reply #28 on:** March 13, 2009, 11:41:18 am »

Quote from: Pop Culture Portal on March 13, 2009, 11:17:12 am

The connectors circled in green go directly to the connector in red.

I checked the AC power at the connector with the red arrow and I'm getting a reading of 1.048. Does that seem right? I also check all the fuses at the power supply and they are all good.

Make sure your multimeter is set to AC Voltage. The reading you say was probably either Resistance or DC Voltage.

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #29 on:** March 13, 2009, 11:57:25 am »

Quote from: Neverending Project on March 13, 2009, 11:41:18 am

Quote from: Pop Culture Portal on March 13, 2009, 11:17:12 am
The connectors circled in green go directly to the connector in red.

I checked the AC power at the connector with the red arrow and I'm getting a reading of 1.048. Does that seem right? I also check all the fuses at the power supply and they are all good.

Make sure your multimeter is set to AC Voltage. The reading you say was probably either Resistance or DC Voltage.

Oops! It was on DC...now it reads 120.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #30 on:** March 13, 2009, 12:53:45 pm »

Quote from: Pop Culture Portal on March 13, 2009, 11:57:25 am

...now it reads 120.

And you are sure there is no neck glow ?

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #31 on:** March 13, 2009, 12:56:29 pm »

Quote from: Kevin Mullins on March 13, 2009, 12:53:45 pm

Quote from: Pop Culture Portal on March 13, 2009, 11:57:25 am
...now it reads 120.
And you are sure there is no neck glow ?

Nope, nothing even flickering.

ChadTower · « **Reply #32 on:** March 13, 2009, 12:56:55 pm »

Quote from: Neverending Project on March 13, 2009, 11:41:18 am

Quote from: Pop Culture Portal on March 13, 2009, 11:17:12 am
The connectors circled in green go directly to the connector in red.

I checked the AC power at the connector with the red arrow and I'm getting a reading of 1.048. Does that seem right? I also check all the fuses at the power supply and they are all good.

Make sure your multimeter is set to AC Voltage. The reading you say was probably either Resistance or DC Voltage.

OTOH, now we know his big blue is decent, since we know he has very little AC ripple.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #33 on:** March 13, 2009, 12:58:33 pm »

Quote from: Peale on March 10, 2009, 01:24:47 pm

Does the game play blind? When you coin it up does it do anything at all?

Quote from: Pop Culture Portal on March 12, 2009, 10:44:51 am

Nope, nothing at all...coin door, marquee and the like light up, but nothing else.

That's another thing to dig into.... gotta have it playing (at least blind/no monitor) in order to troubleshoot clearly.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #34 on:** March 13, 2009, 01:00:25 pm »

Quote from: Pop Culture Portal on March 13, 2009, 12:56:29 pm

Quote from: Kevin Mullins on March 13, 2009, 12:53:45 pm
Quote from: Pop Culture Portal on March 13, 2009, 11:57:25 am
...now it reads 120.
And you are sure there is no neck glow ?

Nope, nothing even flickering.

Then the monitor is not even firing up for sure.
Would start by capping it at the least.......hopefully you won't have a dead flyback.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #35 on:** March 13, 2009, 01:03:32 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on March 13, 2009, 12:56:55 pm

OTOH, now we know his big blue is decent, since we know he has very little AC ripple.

Yup, time for him to break out the schematics and check voltages at the board and coming from the ARII board.

Is there anything noticeably burnt up on the ARII board? (namely resistors)
It's the small board mounted under the main board with the big heatsink.

ChadTower · « **Reply #36 on:** March 13, 2009, 01:12:10 pm »

And make sure you even have the right AR board - that could easily be one someone just threw in there to say the game is complete.

Pop Culture Portal · « **Reply #37 on:** March 13, 2009, 01:28:45 pm »

Here's what I see and honestly it doesn't look right.

Notice in the second picture the wrinkled look of the back of the AR board.

In the third picture, I see day-glo orange marshmallow-cream consistent "junk." I'm assuming that's not good, either.

ChadTower · « **Reply #38 on:** March 13, 2009, 01:44:38 pm »

The wrinkled look is normal - the copper traces do separate some over time. As long as they are intact you're fine.

The orange goo is probably glue. Heavier components often get glued to the board to stop them from breaking off. Why they would glue one but not the other, who knows.

You're going to want to rebuild that whole AR board anyway so you'll be replacing all of those capacitors.

SirPeale · « **Reply #39 on:** March 13, 2009, 01:57:57 pm »

If that's a Sanyo monitor, the connector on is is very tiny and you won't be able to use the Sanyo anyway. Couple that with the missing inverter board, and you're double screwed.

Looks to me like that monitor was just tossed in there.

And note the ground wire soldered directly to the PCB. Check the harness, was it clipped there too?


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