Got all (most?) of my parts. I am clueless on mounting the joysticks!

[xtravbx]

Ok. I'm working with 3/4" MDF.

It's a semibuilt kit control planel. The holes for the buttons and joysticks are already drilled out. Even though there are pre-existing holes in the MDF, it still seems too thick to mount the joystick up through the bottom. The shaft of the joystick just feels too short when it has to go through 3/4" of wood.

What do people do? Route out the bottom of the control to make the depth smaller and therefore the joysticks are mounted up higher?

If so, how do I do that? I've never used a router. Is there an easier way?

I'm so lost.

Here is an example of the control panel kit i'm working with.


Someone please help. I've done some searching and read around - but I'm not understanding whats NECESSARY vs. what's personal preference?

[Franco B]

You will want to top mount your joysticks. Take a look at [this] thread. I'll be doing something similar next week and Ill take some pictures if it helps.

[xtravbx]

I dont understand. Even when people are referring to a "top mounted" joystick - it still appears to be mounted from underneath.

So if I have a 3/4" MDF - do I need to route out some of the wood to make it a thinner depth in order to mount the joysticks?

[xtravbx]

After some more extensive reading - it appears I will need to use a router, or a dremel w/ a router attachement, and route out a ¼" of material, therefore bringing it down to ½" thickness, then mount my joysticks from underneath. Don't think it will be too hard, just need to get my hands on a router attachment for my dremel. I wasn't trying to spend anymore money on this project either. =/

Probably will wait another couple weeks.

Kind of answered my own question - but posted to help anyone else w/ questions such as this.

[Franco B]

Apologies, the link I gave didn't really explain what I meant.

The joysticks you use will be the deciding factor in whether you need to top or bottom mount them.

Happ supers have a height of 87mm from the mounting plate to the top of the bat and can easily be bottom mounted. Mounting them to 18mm (3/4") MDF etc will give you an effective height of 69mm (minus 3mm or so if you are using an acrylic top). You can increase the height by routing out material from the bottom of the CP up to about 12mm thickness as you said which would give you a maximum effective height of 77mm.

If you are using something like the Sanwa JLF or JLW (U360) you will need to top mount them as Japanese joysticks are traditionally mounted to thin metal CPs. The JLFs have a height of 69mm (using a 35mm ball), the JLWs (U360s) are even less at 62mm. Even if you router out the CP base to 12mm thick you will be left with a stick height of 50-57mm (minus 3mm again for acrylic if you are using it). IMO joysicks heights such as these are too short to be used comfortably and you will need to top mount them.

To top mount them you cut a hole straight through the CP for the lower joystick case to slide though. You then counterbore/recess the top of the CP for the mounting plate to sit in so that it is flush or just below the CP top. You may need to increase the depth of the recess depending on what mounting hardware you are using.

To top mount the joysticks in this way you will need a drill, jigsaw, router, pattern bit and flush trim bit (optional). You will also need somew small scrap pieces of MDF to make some routing templates for the method that I am going to use.

A pattern bit is similar to a flush trim bit but the bearing is at the top of the cutting flutes:



The pattern bit will be used to counterbore the recess in the top of the CP.

I'm hoping to start on some CPs when I get home today so I should have some pictures up in a day or so.

[kvncooper]

I am attempting this myself and whilst I can see how mdf can be used to mount the Sanwa stick, how then do you mount the buttons since the mdf will surely be thicker than the recommend (no more than) 7mm panel thickness on which to mount the buttons?

[Franco B]

You either need to recess the whole button area (with a router or similar) on the back of the CP to leave 7mm of material for sanwa screw buttons (9mm for Seimitsu buttons) or use a >35mm forstner bit to counterbore the holes from the back of the CP to leave 7mm.

7mm of material will be fine, you would have to pretty much punch the panel to break it.

I ended up doing the top mount guide [here] if its of use to you.