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Author Topic: FS: Star Wars upright project cabinet whole or parts  (Read 1453 times)

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m_mcgover

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FS: Star Wars upright project cabinet whole or parts
« on: January 27, 2009, 12:48:39 pm »
Crosspost from klov and rgvac...

Sorry in advance for the long post, but I wanted to make sure there were enough pics.

This item is located in Marlton, NJ, which is about 30 minutes east of Philadelphia, PA.

Star Wars upright project cabinet for sale or will part out.  I started to restore this cabinet, but did not finish as I think I will now go “path of least resistance” and buy a nicer cabinet that has popped up locally.

Preference is to sell this cabinet project as a whole to someone that will finish the restoration, so I will give priority to someone who wants everything.
There are a couple of items that are grouped.  I will give priority to someone that wants one of the groups.
If it gets parted out, prices do not include shipping.  Buyer to pay as close to actual shipping as possible. 
Please include your zipcode with your requests so I can quote you a shipping cost.

If interested, please send PM with your wants and zip.

1. Star Wars Upright cabinet project - $300 - if taken as whole (see parts description below)

2. Wiring harness - $55 - complete with all connectors.  Will include speakers (one cone has rip, both are dusty).  Game board connector is cracked and will need replacement ($4 part from Bob Roberts).  Compare to $70 at quarter arcade
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229461513/
cracked connector
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229561305/

3. Power brick - $20 - (dirty and untested)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229461649/

4. plastic bezel monitor shroud - $50 - Very nice condition.  All decals intact.  Compare to $65 at quarter arcade
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3230400768/

5. plexiglass - $20 - nice condition - it's a piece of glass, so no picture.  If someone *really* wants one, I'll take a picture.

6. control panel - $20 - control panel overlay removed, needs remaining adhesive removed and new overlay applied.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3230314206/
7. control panel repro overlay - $45 - unused.  $40 if purchased with control panel.  Compare to $55 at arcadeshop
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229464697/
8. control yoke - $175 - working, pulled from working SW upright - will need new overlay on cover.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229464331/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229464129/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3230314450/

or take 6, 7, and 8 for $220

9. marquee assembly - $50 - some cracking along bottom bend, one small rip in marquee section.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3230311876/
some scratches: (vertical near top) and some adhesive (underneath big tie fighter)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229461191/
hole (decal pushed up...could probably be flattened back out):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3230311276/
crack on bend:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3230311070/

10. cabinet with coin doors and 2/4 mechs, no keys - $40 - Sideart is in nice shape as a whole.  There are a couple of spots where vinyl is peeling and a few gouges, but overall, pretty nice.  The front art is in nice shape, too. This cabinet needed 1 front corner repaired, which I did with bondo and sanded down.  Now, the corner will now need paint. 

There was a little water damage on top.  Top piece needed to be replaced.  I've got cut plywood ready to be installed (will need to be painted).  Installed new blocking on the top and on one side where back door would go (this does not have a back door).  Top lefhand side back has some swelling, but not too bad.  I was going to live with it.  I think it may be possible to sand it back down w/o having to apply new sideart.  The top back piece (with the oval venting) should also be replaced.  I've got a plywood piece cut, but I was planning to do it again as the vent oval that I cut is too big and not straight (for my liking, anyway).  Will need new T-molding, too.  For any replacement piece you can have the original, too.
right side (better of the two sides)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3230312360/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229461989/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229462109/
left side:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3230312884/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3230313630/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229462875/
worst of the gouges
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229462743/
vinyl peeling
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229462407/
water damage
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3230313138/
corner repair
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3230313754/
front
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12090271@N02/3229463429/

Thanks!
Sinistar, 25" Smash TV, Major Havoc 720, Star Wars cockpit w/ESB kit, Robotron cocktail, Warlords cocktail, Back to the Future pinball