Anyone expert with appliances?

[RayB]

I want the opinion of someone regarding our freezer. We bought a horizontal model freezer with the intention of using it in the basement. The only electrical outlet we can use for it is a couple feet too far (or should I say, the damn electrical cord on it is 2 feet too short!).

The user manual explicitly says NOT to use an extension cord.

My question to the experts is: WHY NOT?

I can understand they need to make sure nobody uses a 2-prong cord, or a power bar or anything dumb like that, but what's wrong with using a grounded heavy duty cord??

[dstone]

I think that's in the manual to prevent people from using those little desk lamp extension cords. I figure as long as it's a pretty heavy gauge cord, there won't be any problems*. Our two freezers are located in our garage. When we had an extended blackout (lasted a few days), I ran a large extension cord from the two freezers in our garage to the circuit that the refrigerator was on, as it was hooked in to our standby generator. Worked like a champ and the extension cord never got hot like I've seen happen when a cord would get overloaded at a job site.


*I'm not responsible if you try this and your house burns down. I'm not a qualified electrician, I'm just speaking from my own personal experiences.

[_Iz-]

Yeah, it's a wire gauge thing for sure. As long as you use a heavy gauge extension in the shortest length possible you'll be fine.

The note is to cover their butts. Invariably they'll get someone using a 50' light gauge cord complaining their compressor burned out, duhhhh....

[RayB]

Presumably one of those thick orange ones, meant for lawn mowers n stuff is good enough ?

[SirPeale]

I'd say something with a *really* heavy gauge would be okay.  At least 14G per wire.

[_Iz-]

I'd say something with a *really* heavy gauge would be okay.  At least 14G per wire.

Yeah, at least 14 gauge, 12 gauge would be ideal if you can get it. Also get the shortest one that will reach.

[boykster]

Is it a model where you can easily remove the existing power cord and put a longer one on it? 

[Ken Layton]

Get yourself an "air conditioner" extension cord at the hardware/electrical store. They are typically 6 feet long and 14 gauge wire. Only costs about $10.

[Ed_McCarron]

Get yourself an "air conditioner" extension cord at the hardware/electrical store. They are typically 6 feet long and 14 gauge wire. Only costs about $10.

Yup.  What Ken said.  Beat me to it.  Mine calls them "Appliance" extension cords, IIRC.

[RayB]

Thanks guys!
 

[Blanka]

The cable from your fuse-cupboard to the wall socket is an extension cable in a way as well. I would not see why you need thick cables. If it is a grounded extension cable anything will do. Fridges don't use that much current anymore. Must be some fkkn German DIN law that demands those 'notes' in the manual. Get used to it. All American products will be designed against European productlaw. It is the toughest in the World.

[CheffoJeffo]

I would not see why you need thick cables. If it is a grounded extension cable anything will do.

I haven't done electrical work in a long time now (so, some of my info may be out of date ... I'm old ...), but IIRC, I ran 12Ga for the 15A outlet circuits in the last house and a "standard" grounded extension cord is 18Ga. From my recollection of that round of circuit planning, a freezer will draw 10-14 Amps when the compressor kicks in, which is over the 10A rating of the 18Ga cord.

My numbers may be out of date, but having seen homes destroyed because somebody thought that "anything will do", I would lean towards a nice short 14Ga cord.

Maybe it is "more than you need", but it beats the hell out of the alternative.

And, Ray -- I use a 14Ga cord with my freezer.

[Ed_McCarron]

The cable from your fuse-cupboard to the wall socket is an extension cable in a way as well. I would not see why you need thick cables. If it is a grounded extension cable anything will do. Fridges don't use that much current anymore. Must be some fkkn German DIN law that demands those 'notes' in the manual. Get used to it. All American products will be designed against European productlaw. It is the toughest in the World.

Yikes.  The wiring in the wall is sized for the breaker (or, vice-versa).

15A requires #14 wire.
20A requires #12 wire.

Most current residential breakers are 20A.

Don't listen to anyone who says "a cord is a cord."  Well, unless you're trying for a Darwin award.  In that case, can I have your arcade stuff?

[RayB]

I've realized I probably need to get the outlet on its own circuit breaker too, don't I? I noticed all my other appliances are. *sigh*  no freezer for us for a while.

[Ed_McCarron]

Its not a bad idea, but the freezer will really only pull current when the compressor kicks on.  Plug it in.  Worse case, you trip the breaker.

[CheffoJeffo]

Its not a bad idea, but the freezer will really only pull current when the compressor kicks on.  Plug it in with non-Darwin cord.  Worse case, you trip the breaker.

Fixt

[SirPeale]

Blanka's advice is...well...crap.  Get a *good* cord.  It's worth the extra...what...three or four bucks for the peace of mind.

[xar256]

I've realized I probably need to get the outlet on its own circuit breaker too, don't I? I noticed all my other appliances are. *sigh*  no freezer for us for a while.

It's certainly recommended, But it's not a requirement (Though some areas it may be by code by today's standards).  What else is sharing the circuit?  I wouldn't put any electronics on the same circuit, but if it's just a lamp or 2, it's not a big deal, you'll probably see them dim slightly when the compressor kicks in.  But do get the heavy gauge cord...If for no other reason, a light gauge cord is a fire hazzard.

[Hockeyboy]

As someone who installed upgraded wiring in the garage to be able to do *exactly* what you are doing (put in a fridge and freezer into a dedicated outlet) I used 12ga wire and a 20A breaker and wired in a dedicated outlet. I went with 20A over 15A because there was a possibility that both the fridge and freezer could both come on at the same time, drawing in excess of 15A and therefore tripping the breaker; the rest of the garage and the rest of the house are wired with 15A circuits for the lights and the plugs as that is the standard code across most of the country. Odds are that if you have only that freezer plugged into that circuit and kicking on you won't trip the breaker but I wouldn't load up the rest of the circuit if possible.

Oh, and don't worry - if you get a cord that handles 25A, it won't draw any extra current, but it certainly won't be the weak link in your circuit.

[RayB]

Welp, I got an "appliance" extension cord. 14ga, rated 15a. The freezer only draws 4a and the sump pump on the 2nd plug of the same outlet draws 3a. So I doubt I have anything worry about.

thanks for all the advice.