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Introduction and Question
TheGameAh:
Thanks Tiger. I don't think I'll be using an T-Molding at all. I'm not really making a new box, it's really just a single sheet of MDF that I'll mount right inside the cab. It won't stick out like most panels do.
It's pretty funny, two weeks ago I didn't even know what T-Molding was.
RedSquirrel:
heh what is T molding? I been wondering this for a few days.
Also, yeah I want to get the X Arcade for when I build my cab, but it does look kinda small and a little bit nasty. I was wondering if I could open it and transfer it to another panel that I could make.
I the xarcade controller easy to open (and remove the bits?).
How do you stop the buttons from falling out of the mdf (the new panel) does it screw in or do you glue it etc?
Thanks
Erik:
--- Quote from: RedSquirrel on June 03, 2003, 11:12:09 am ---heh what is T molding? I been wondering this for a few days.
Also, yeah I want to get the X Arcade for when I build my cab, but it does look kinda small and a little bit nasty. I was wondering if I could open it and transfer it to another panel that I could make.
I the xarcade controller easy to open (and remove the bits?).
How do you stop the buttons from falling out of the mdf (the new panel) does it screw in or do you glue it etc?
Thanks
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T-molding is the plastic strip that goes all along the edges of the cabinet. It inserts into a channel you'd have to route into the edge of the board if you were building your own cabinet.
Don't know how hard it is to get into the X-Arcade, but buttons are held on with nuts in the back. They don't screw into the board, they just drop into the holes you drill, then you thread the nut on the back to hold them tight
Tiger-Heli:
--- Quote from: RedSquirrel on June 03, 2003, 11:12:09 am ---heh what is T molding? I been wondering this for a few days.
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http://www.t-molding.com/cart/customer/home.php
If you look at most cabs there's a strip of vinyl that goes around the edges to keep it from splitting. That's T-molding. But you have to cut a groove around the outside edge of the wood to install it.
--- Quote ---Also, yeah I want to get the X Arcade for when I build my cab, but it does look kinda small and a little bit nasty. I was wondering if I could open it and transfer it to another panel that I could make.
--- End quote ---
Ermmm, pardon my bluntness, but . . . Using an old X-arcade that you already have to make a Control Panel is not a bad idea. BUYING an X-arcade to gut for a CP is silly (unless you specifically want their interface board for connection to console games). I know you wanted to avoid wiring, but you have to unwire everything from the X-arcade to move it anyway, and if it's soldered, you will have more work than starting from scratch with quick disconnects. And the aftermarket encoders are better quality. And you can get whatever color buttons/sticks you want. Plenty of people here to help you out also.
Then there's cost - X-arcade - $150 ($110 on E-bay sometimes).
BYOAC - Joysticks and buttons - X-arcade - $20.00 (black only) (www.therealbobroberts.com, happ joysticks - $8.50 each, $17; Happ buttons 18@ $1.15 - $20.7, 1P and 2P start buttons ($3.20) Total - $40)
Encoder - KeyWiz Standard - $33 www.groovygamegear.com
Wire and stuff (connectors, quickdisconnects) - $15.00
Wood - $5
Shipping charges - Approx $20
Total BYOAC - $93 to 113
--- Quote ---I the xarcade controller easy to open (and remove the bits?).
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Dunno, I'm pretty sure the bottom unscrews. I'm pretty sure everything removes pretty easily. If the wires are soldered to the buttons that's a fair amount of work to undo that, though.
--- Quote ---How do you stop the buttons from falling out of the mdf (the new panel) does it screw in or do you glue it etc?
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http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/9100l.jpg
The buttons use a nylon nut (PAL nut) (the black ring in the pic above) to hold them to the wood. You have to remove the microswitch, screw the button in, and then reinstall the microswitch.
pmc:
--- Quote from: Tiger-Heli on June 03, 2003, 10:13:53 am ---
--- Quote from: thedemo on June 03, 2003, 10:06:46 am ---If your gonna use the X-Arcade CP as a templete clamp it to the new MDF and use a 1 1/8" spade bit to drill the holes for the buttons till the point starts to peak through on the back side. Then flip it over and finish drilling it from the backside.(makes and nice clean hole that way) Then mark the openings for the joysticks and cut them out using a recipricating saw or a router with a straight cut bit.
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Good advice by thedemo.
Another option is to put some scrap wood under the MDF when you drill the holes. This will keep the bottom of the hole neat and keep you from having to flip the panel over and drill everything twice. (Then again, who cares if the back side of the hole is sloppy, it will never be seen).
Also, you can probably use the spade bit for the joystick holes as well.
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I just did this a couple of days ago and I found that there was minimal need for any of these precautions. I used a new paddle bit which probably helped (sharp). Don't push too hard and don't run your drill at the maximum speed -- the MDF will cut like butter. Push a tiny bit harder and instead of dust you'll get curls. You'll feel when it's about to break through. Back-off on the pressure so you don't get much tear-out. There will be some tear-out on the bottom. But once you mount the buttons, the nut that holds the buttons in place will cover the tear-out. I also used the paddle bit to cut the Joystick holes. No problem there either.
My end-product looks perfect and I didn't even bother flipping, using scrap-wood, or worrying too much about it. Of course, YMMV.
I did notice that when drilling smaller holes -- say 1/4" to 3/8", that I'd get more tear-out. The surface of the MDF on the bottom side just sort of cracks and pushes into a tee-pee. Flipping over and re-drilling from the bottom cleaned-it up pretty well. The moral, to me anyway, is to slow down just before penetrating the other side to make sure the bit does the cutting rather than allowing the pressure to just push the hole through. Stuff sure doesn't mill like pine.
Now if I can only get the technique for perfect bevel cuts down!