Main > Main Forum
Introduction and Question
RedSquirrel:
--- Quote from: Tiger-Heli on June 03, 2003, 11:41:08 am ---
--- Quote from: RedSquirrel on June 03, 2003, 11:12:09 am ---heh what is T molding? I been wondering this for a few days.
--- End quote ---
http://www.t-molding.com/cart/customer/home.php
If you look at most cabs there's a strip of vinyl that goes around the edges to keep it from splitting. That's T-molding. But you have to cut a groove around the outside edge of the wood to install it.
--- Quote ---Also, yeah I want to get the X Arcade for when I build my cab, but it does look kinda small and a little bit nasty. I was wondering if I could open it and transfer it to another panel that I could make.
--- End quote ---
Ermmm, pardon my bluntness, but . . . Using an old X-arcade that you already have to make a Control Panel is not a bad idea. BUYING an X-arcade to gut for a CP is silly (unless you specifically want their interface board for connection to console games). I know you wanted to avoid wiring, but you have to unwire everything from the X-arcade to move it anyway, and if it's soldered, you will have more work than starting from scratch with quick disconnects. And the aftermarket encoders are better quality. And you can get whatever color buttons/sticks you want. Plenty of people here to help you out also.
Then there's cost - X-arcade - $150 ($110 on E-bay sometimes).
BYOAC - Joysticks and buttons - X-arcade - $20.00 (black only) (www.therealbobroberts.com, happ joysticks - $8.50 each, $17; Happ buttons 18@ $1.15 - $20.7, 1P and 2P start buttons ($3.20) Total - $40)
Encoder - KeyWiz Standard - $33 www.groovygamegear.com
Wire and stuff (connectors, quickdisconnects) - $15.00
Wood - $5
Shipping charges - Approx $20
Total BYOAC - $93 to 113
--- Quote ---I the xarcade controller easy to open (and remove the bits?).
--- End quote ---
Dunno, I'm pretty sure the bottom unscrews. I'm pretty sure everything removes pretty easily. If the wires are soldered to the buttons that's a fair amount of work to undo that, though.
--- Quote ---How do you stop the buttons from falling out of the mdf (the new panel) does it screw in or do you glue it etc?
--- End quote ---
http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/9100l.jpg
The buttons use a nylon nut (PAL nut) (the black ring in the pic above) to hold them to the wood. You have to remove the microswitch, screw the button in, and then reinstall the microswitch.
--- End quote ---
To be honest, while yes Id like to make the panel from fresh, I havent a clue how this ipac works and how all the buttons and joysticks connect. It's just a little scary to me!! I just thought if I opened the x-arcade, i could pretty much just unscrew where the old buttons where, and take the whole lot out ready to transfer into a new panel. I dont see why it would be soldered in? But in any case at least I would know how it started out like. Ill check some guides too..
Tiger-Heli:
--- Quote from: RedSquirrel on June 03, 2003, 05:15:14 pm ---To be honest, while yes Id like to make the panel from fresh, I havent a clue how this ipac works and how all the buttons and joysticks connect. It's just a little scary to me!!
--- End quote ---
http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac2.html See drawing halfway down the page if it doesn't display here. Other encoders connect basically the same way.
You do have to decide which button will be button 1, and maybe what code you want each button to send, but that's really an advantage, when you really think about it.
--- Quote --- I just thought if I opened the x-arcade, i could pretty much just unscrew where the old buttons where, and take the whole lot out ready to transfer into a new panel.
--- End quote ---
No, at the very least you would need to label which wire on their encoder goes to which button (maybe two wires per button b/c I don't think it's common ground), remove the wires from the switches, remove the switches from the buttons, remove the buttons from the panel, and then put it back together. And that's assuming it's not soldered.
--- Quote --- I dont see why it would be soldered in?
--- End quote ---
I don't know that it is. I said it might be. And it might be b/c in a mass produced product that you don't plan to repeatedly disassemble, soldering is a more secure (electrically) connection, plus being cheaper and faster. Time is money in the for-profit world.
RedSquirrel:
I must apologise, I think ive hijacked the original owners thread!
I think Ive actually decided to make my own now. After a good half an hour looking at the ipac site, it doesnt look half as hard as I thought it would. Infact it looks quite easy. The ipac board lists what each function does doesnt it for the wire to connect to?
What is the inputs on the right though? (The top ones are for P1 and P2 right). I also like it I can buy everything from the ipac to make things easier. The hardest part now seems to be making the actual controller in the mdf.
u_rebelscum:
--- Quote from: Tiger-Heli on June 03, 2003, 05:52:00 pm ---
--- Quote from: RedSquirrel on June 03, 2003, 05:15:14 pm --- I just thought if I opened the x-arcade, i could pretty much just unscrew where the old buttons where, and take the whole lot out ready to transfer into a new panel.
--- End quote ---
No, at the very least you would need to label which wire on their encoder goes to which button (maybe two wires per button b/c I don't think it's common ground), remove the wires from the switches, remove the switches from the buttons, remove the buttons from the panel, and then put it back together. And that's assuming it's not soldered.
--- End quote ---
Umm, I can take the switches off & put them back onto my happs buttons while they're still wired. (3/4" boards, the horizontal switch buttons, & quick snap connectors.) Maybe the shorter xarcade buttons will make this harder, but I think it still would be possible. The unwiring-rewiring you talk about would be the hardest part, but I don't know if that step is really needed. *shrug*
I wonder if the original poster had to unwire the switches? ???
TheGameAh:
Howdy again guys. Just wanted to let you guys know who was wondering. Last night I took apart my X-Arcade. I know everyone here loves building their own, but they did do a really good job. They did use quick connects instead of soldering, which is real nice for my moving plans.