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Introduction and Question
TheGameAh:
Hey guys. Just wanted to introduce myself. I've been reading the boards for a while now after getting interested in this hobby, but haven't posted until now.
I have a question, I'm sure a simple one, for you guys. My expertise is in the computer side of things, my woodworking skills are non existant. I have an old gutted cabinet I'm going to fix up and a used X-Arcade stick. The X-Arcade stick doesn't fit very well into the cabinet. It sticks out like a sore thumb. My plan was to remove all the buttons and joysticks from the X-Arcade. I was going to get a sheet of MDF and cut it down to nicely fit the cabinet. Then simply transfer the buttons and joysticks to the new panel.
Can this be done? And if it can be done, exactly what tools would I need? I've read plenty, but I'm still a wood idiot. I assume I'd just need clamps to hold the X-Arcade panel to the MDF and maybe a router to punch the holes? Thanks ahead of time.
thedemo:
Sure it can be done, in fact thats what I did on my first cab. I bought an X-Arcade with the intention of using it in the cab and then realized it was too small for myself and another person to play at the same time side by side. A friend of mine an I made a completely new CP that was more our size and transferred the buttons, joysticks and interface to the new CP.
If your gonna use the X-Arcade CP as a templete clamp it to the new MDF and use a 1 1/8" spade bit to drill the holes for the buttons till the point starts to peak through on the back side. Then flip it over and finish drilling it from the backside.(makes and nice clean hole that way) Then mark the openings for the joysticks and cut them out using a recipricating saw or a router with a straight cut bit.
The only problem is that the X-Arcade parts were made to be used on a 1/2" or 5/8"MDF. I had to use 3/4" MDF so I had to route out the backside of the new CP around the buttons and joysticks to compensate for the shallow parts. But it will work.
Good luck
Tiger-Heli:
--- Quote from: thedemo on June 03, 2003, 10:06:46 am ---If your gonna use the X-Arcade CP as a templete clamp it to the new MDF and use a 1 1/8" spade bit to drill the holes for the buttons till the point starts to peak through on the back side. Then flip it over and finish drilling it from the backside.(makes and nice clean hole that way) Then mark the openings for the joysticks and cut them out using a recipricating saw or a router with a straight cut bit.
--- End quote ---
Good advice by thedemo.
Another option is to put some scrap wood under the MDF when you drill the holes. This will keep the bottom of the hole neat and keep you from having to flip the panel over and drill everything twice. (Then again, who cares if the back side of the hole is sloppy, it will never be seen).
Also, you can probably use the spade bit for the joystick holes as well.
TheGameAh:
Thanks for the responses guys. Now that I think about it, I may drill out the first player side, move the template over, then drill out the second player to give more room between the two.
Demo, why did you have to use 3/4"? You're saying that if I use 1/2" or 5/8" I won't have to make any special adjustments? If that's the case I'll grab a sheet of that instead.
What router bits would I need for the joystick holes?
Tiger-Heli:
--- Quote from: TheGameAh on June 03, 2003, 10:27:56 am ---Thanks for the responses guys. Now that I think about it, I may drill out the first player side, move the template over, then drill out the second player to give more room between the two.
Demo, why did you have to use 3/4"? You're saying that if I use 1/2" or 5/8" I won't have to make any special adjustments? If that's the case I'll grab a sheet of that instead.
What router bits would I need for the joystick holes?
--- End quote ---
3/4" is pretty much a standard for arcade cabs, but 1/2 or 5/8 will work fine. One concern is T-molding for the edges, which is common (lots of colors) in 3/4 but also available (white and black) in 1/2.
No router bits needed, just make a 1-1/8 hole with the spade bit. You could then enlarge the hole with a Dremel or straight cut router bit, if required.