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Push / Pull spinner from VCR parts

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Xiaou2:
Another way...

  Make a small pedal that sits near the base of your cab.

 The pedal would have springs on either side,  and balanced in the
middle.   Have two leaf switches on each end.    Or you could even
use a joystick pot with gearing.  (dont use optical - as it will de-calibrate)

 This may make the game even easier, and more fun.   As then the up/down
wont interfere with the Precise aim of the spinner. 

 With an analog pot - one could even use it for driving or flight games.
Make sure to use gears tho - as it will not be enough pot registered to
be properly recognized by windows calibration otherwise.   Gears can
be found at local hobby shops or surplus warehouses.
 
 
 If you still opt for Optical..  use a Laser mouse instead.   They are more
accurate than anything else out there..   and you wont even need an encoder
disc.   (dont use Optical as they are poor in tracking.  Laser only)

krutknut:
What do you mean with more "accurate" here?

Xiaou2:
Accurate as in controllability.

 If your trying to control your spinner down to the correct pixel.. then try to adjust the
depth by pushing down,  you may cause your spinner to turn slightly - thus messing
up your aim.

 By separation of up/down control from the spin aim,  you gain more accuracy.

 Its similar to driving a car.   While they Could have added the gas and brake into
the steering wheel... its pretty well recognized that it would not be the
best idea due to loss of control accuracy.

 I actually own a DOT spinner - and really, its not all that great.   Its a clunky,
filled with too much friction, and control in DOT on up/down levels is awkward.

krutknut:
All push / pull spinners combine up / down / spin. It gives a different kind of control than having separate buttons for up and down.  That's why I am building one.

I have now fixed the coding wheel, so the spinner works. The last thing I have to adjust is the sensor, it doesn't follow the up / down motion correctly yet, so it touches the wheel during push.

If the spinner is designed correctly, then there is no more friction than in any other spinner.

Xiaou2:
Krutkunt,

  I was merely giving you an idea, and my opinion of the control.

 However, you seem to take it as an offense.

 "All push / pull spinners combine up / down / spin."

 REALLY?!   Way to state the severely obvious.   Especiallybeing directed at
a guy who OWNS a DOT spinner. (and before hand, had began work on my
own version)

 "If the spinner is designed correctly, then there is no more friction than in any other spinner."

 And yet you cant get the optics to follow...

 Be realistic.   Any time you are making contact with a switch AND trying to
spin at the same exact moment - you are getting extra friction.

 As for the assembly a normal spinner will not need any specialized carriages
to adjust optics for example.    Additional slide holders, and other various
assemblies typically cause additional friction.   

 The only way around this would be up/down sensors that did not
require actual touching... such as optical, hall, reed..etc.

"It gives a different kind of control than having separate buttons for up and down. "

  Using a pedal to control up/down is also different.   Its merely an opinion as to
what you may wish to use.   However,  it does have advantages over the
original design.

 Ive played my friends DOT arcade machine.  I can say with all honestly, as Ive said before,
that Im not impressed with the DOT design.   Its clunky and awkward, and hampered my
game control more than aided it.

 However, as I also said, I could care less if you are building it true to the original.
I was merely giving my opinions and suggestions.

 One problem you will probably face, is durability issues.  I also had the same problems
with my initial designs.   Which is another reason I suggested the pedal.  As well
as to give the idea to those who have already mounted spinners - and dont wish
to rip them out and replace them.


 And one more thing...

 I also had a big problem with trying to make my own encoder disc like the one
you show above.   If the disc is a hair off,  it will cause major tracking problems.
Id get maybe 358 degrees as stable tracking,  then it would 'hickup'.

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