Futuram Cab w/4 sided rotating control panel **UPDATE 10/23 CP OPINIONS WANTED**

[Bender]

This will be my first Arcade Cabinet
my goal is to create a MAME based arcade cabinet with a 4 sided rotating control Panel (inspired by 1up's 3 sided design)

I love the retro/future look and humor of Futurama so the graphics and sounds of the Front End and cabinet will be based on on that theme (somehow seems like a great fit for a cabinet as there a quite a few references to classic arcade games in the show)

I wanted to document this because I've learned so much from others sharing how they built their cabinets, so  I wanted to share what I'm working on so that others might find something helpful in it.

Also I'm sure I'll run into problems along the way and I'm sure the comunity will have some great suggestions, Thanks in advance

Below is a Photoshop rendering of what it might look like when I'm done

Please keep in mind that I am only in the designing phase right now.

[leapinlew]

Cool good luck, and remember... what if life were more like a video game?

[Sir Auros]

Uh, What if that thing I said?

[Bender]

Here is the basic layout for the Cab
If anyone has any suggestions or input I'd appreciate it
It's easy to make changes before the wood gets cut
and as this is my first project I'm sure there are things I'm overlooking


the 4 sides of the rotating panel are
1. Classic fighting/classic 2-4 way
2. Dual tron 8way/spinner/Trackball
3. Steering wheel and shifter
4. Starwars Flight yoke(Yeah!)

see the link to see a larger image

[Bender]

The first major issue for me was the wires getting tangled coming out or the rotating panel
so first I tried to find out what other people did (1up, frostillicus)
It appears (and I could certainly be wrong here) that their panels rotate in one direction 3 times then back again in the other direction, in other words you can't just rotate the panel continuously around in one direction, the cords aren't long enough or would get tangled

My solution:
Get everything inside the panel down to 1 USB cord (easily done with hub inside the CP)
Use one of those phone cord detangler thingies, you remember those from the days of corded phones
luckily they have 4 connectors same a USB
so I  cut a USB cord in half wired one side to the detangler and the other end to a headset jack (R11 jack) taken from an old phone
Plugged them together and Bingo!
All I have to do is mount the jack end to the center of the rotating mechanism on one side and I have a
Freely rotating CP that can go in either direction infinitely without getting tangled!


the two sides wired up


the two sides plugged in


the 2 sides rotated 180degrees

[dynamite]

great idea with the cords. Just a question though. I know you're definitely tight for space but are you sure you're going to have enough space for the flight yoke to be pushed up all the way?

[Bender]

Dynamike

great idea with the cords. Just a question though. I know you're definitely tight for space but are you sure you're going to have enough space for the flight yoke to be pushed up all the way?

I'm not sure, it might be a little tight but I do have some room to play around with in the design
but  i can't tell for sure till I have the actual controller to measure
And I probably won't have that for a couple of weeks

I did get the steering wheel today though
the Billabs penta sync monitor should be here in a few days
so I won't have the final design till all the parts arrive
I HATE waiting

[Xiaou2]

 You could put a  "One Way"  Hinged trapdoor between the control panel
top and the monitor bottom.    The hinges on the inside.   

 When you rotate the thing clockwise,  Any controls that are too
high will just push open the 4" (?)  door below the monitor.

 Be aware of your drawing, of pinching your fingers between the
controls and the panel itself.   The steering wheel and tron stick
look a bit too close.

Edit:

 I noticed you have no "thickness"  drawn in.   Meaning, your drawing
shows the wood panels as paper thin.   Make sure to take into acount
the thickness of the wood you are working with, and how each side will
overlap to connect together.

   

[AcidArmitage]

that sideview looks dangerous 

[Green Giant]

Any chance of extending the steering wheel shaft and popping it off Formula 1 style?  Would make fitting easier and more comfortagle when playing.

[(+_+)]

Your cab plans look great so far. I can't wait to see more progress. Designing those rotating panels scare me and it's probably even trickier creating them. Good luck!!

[melarky]

I don't know if you have seen this post:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=66234.0

It may be "inspiring" for you though.  I love Futurama and am excited to see a themed cab completed, good luck.

[ChadTower]

You may want to do look around for a better data connector solution.  Those RJ-45 plugs and jacks don't stand up to a huge amount of cycles... especially the tabs on the plugs.  They snap off like stale cookies.

[BrentRadio]

Yes, great show and cool design for a cab. Will be cool if you can pull it off like that.

Uh, What if that thing I said?

Love that clip, watch it here:

http://www.brentradio.com/videos.htm

I just had an arcade party on Sat night and made everybody watch that clip. They were laughing there asses off. And I have most of the games in the clip so that was cool too.

Here's a pic of the kids going at it. I think it's great to see the youngun's playing the classics



Brent

[More Cowbell]

Poor Joust and Space Invaders get no love.

[unclet]

You have to be pretty confident that phone detangler is going to work well over time, since you whole rotation design is counting on it.   What happens if the line breaks, will it be easy for you to reach in and install a new detangler?   I always try to think about how repair work can be done as well while planning.

Also, I would be surprised is you can get a steering wheel next to a yoke installed with enough space for rotation.  The tron stick looks awful close to the monitor as well during rotation. 

Does 1up's design rely on opening the front panel (with coin door) to allow space for rotation to take place?  I also seem to remember someone else who made a rotating cabinet which which required the front panel to be opened toward the player (hinged at the bottom) to allow for rotation.   

Anyway, anxious to see how this turns out.

[SavannahLion]

You may want to do look around for a better data connector solution.  Those RJ-45 plugs and jacks don't stand up to a huge amount of cycles... especially the tabs on the plugs.  They snap off like stale cookies.

You also have to go through the hassle of aligning the rotating portion exactly dead center, and/or find some way to compensate for shifting in the rotating mechanism and contraction/expansion of the wood. Here's a discussion about different electrical rotators out there.

Some of those rotaters are insanely expensive. I like how compact the Mercotac is for instance, but when I spotted prices in the $150 range, I decided anything more than a simple RJ-45 jack is going to be out of reach. Since I never intend on building a rotating CP, here's my idea. Feel free to use it. (I doubt anyone ever will, but whatever.)

Let's say you use two rotating Lazy Susan bearing. That leaves a huge center hole to work with. Down this center, you run a fixed plastic pipe. I would prefer PVC but it's kind of bendy. Let's assume PVC for the rest of this. Down this PVC, slide down alternating metal and plastic PVC collars. After you slide down a metal ring, drill a small hole through the pipe, run a wire down the pipe and up through the hole, then solder it to the metal ring. Then slide the PVC collar over this hole and repeat. You can easily get 8 connectors for two USB connections or one USB and 5+, 12+ and grounds or whatever else you need. Install down the center.

On the rotating CP itself, install some kind of horizontal brace off center, such as another pipe, mounted with an inch or two of the fixed center pipe. Depending on what metal collars you chose, you can do brushings or other types of connections.

For a brushings style. Off of the brace attach strips of metal to act as brushings that align with the metal collars on the center pipe. Two screws in the metal brush should prevent the brush from twisting or the plastic collar can act as a track. Adjust until brushings make contact. Run wire from brush to wherever on CP.

Another idea I had was to loop a piece of small solid core wire around the metal portion of the collar. This would especially work if there was already a groove in the metal or if the plastic collars were larger than the metal creating a groove. Apply some conductive grease to lubricate and prevent oxidation. Binding might be an issue, so looping a spring to make contact instead of a wire might prevent binding and have the added benefit of being self adjusting as the the whole assembly settles out of whack.

Both of the above have the drawback of requiring maintainence as the metal brushes/wire/spring wears down, requiring replacement. Buying a huge box of springs or strips of metal and premaking them all at the same time should ease replacement woes.

A more complex idea would be to have a spring loaded arm with a bearing on the contact point. I haven't worked out how to get that idea viable though.

[unclet]

Aren't lazy susans built to support weight set on "top" of it, rather than trying to support weight when they are mounted at 90 degrees?

[leapinlew]

Here's a pic of the kids going at it. I think it's great to see the youngun's playing the classics

Yes, it is good to see the young'ns playing classics. Thing is, you should've taken time lapsed photos that would take a picture every 30 seconds. I bet it would be hard to find any of those kids still playing the same game after 30 seconds.

[SavannahLion]

Aren't lazy susans built to support weight set on "top" of it, rather than trying to support weight when they are mounted at 90 degrees?

I thought I saw a project using lazy susans or maybe it was something similar.

Frostillicus uses a PVC pipe for the center. I don't believe a PVC pipe will last acting as a bearing. PVC is pretty easy to cut through with a basic saw, so wood would be through it in short time.

Maybe short metal pipes on either end for the wood to sit on with a PVC pipe to join the two in the center and act as insulation.

[unclet]

Here is a 5 panel rotating control panel.  Click on the following link and then select "Construction" to see how they used metal ........

http://www.marksarcade.com/


Here is one of my favorites:

http://rototron.info/

[SavannahLion]

Here is a 5 panel rotating control panel.  Click on the following link and then select "Construction" to see how they used metal ........

http://www.marksarcade.com/

I know, I was trying to avoid that one because it doesn't isolate the pipe. From the design, I think you also have limited rotation as well.

[ARTIFACT]

your initial rendering looks great!!

your second more realistic plans reveal a much smaller screen (15"?) with the space left... Perhaps you should consider moving your CP unit lower, to give the monitor area some space and perhaps allow for a more comfortable 21" or 25" (...) monitor. What do you think?

This, and as someone else said above, plan for 3/4" plywood/MDF (typical thickness) to fit.

GOOD LUCK!!! 

[rdagger]

The 4 sided CP is a cool design.  The biggest problem I see is having enough space inside the CP for the undersides of the controls.  The center axle will limit your depth and the extra side will make things very cramped especially for repairs and upgrades.  If I could redesign my rotating cab, I would have made it much easier to remove the controls.   It would be very helpful if you could design the CP so that each side panel could be removed from the top without pulling out the entire rotating assembly.

The phone detangler is a novel idea, but I would be concerned about reliability and interference.  Although if it is sufficiently isolated from the strain of the axle, it would probably be OK.  Just make sure that the detangler is very easy to replace.  I know slip rings are very expensive, but you might be able to pick one up at a car salvage yard.  Many steering wheels have slip rings for the SRS system and horn.  I haven't tried one, but I'd guess the rotary connector for an air bag would have to be very reliable.

[hng]

l  I know slip rings are very expensive, but you might be able to pick one up at a car salvage yard.  Many steering wheels have slip rings for the SRS system and horn.  I haven't tried one, but I'd guess the rotary connector for an air bag would have to be very reliable.

It's called a "clock spring". Reliable... yes. easy to  destroy... definitely yes. They only travel about 5 full revolutions. (2.5 left/2.5 right). Aside from having the wheels on the car centered when it is pulled (and then installing a service pin) you have no way of knowing when it is centered. You can't spin it lock-to-lock to find center... it will keep spinning, but it will also be broken.  Not to mention the fact that airbags are a huge money maker for salvage yards, and the clockspring usually goes with them, makes it not a cost effective option.

[Bender]

Hi Everybody!

Monkeys aren't Donkeys, Stop messing with my head!

Thanks For all the input.
I will take all your suggestions into account as I do much more detailed design when I have all the pieces and mechanics worked out.



I am designing the rotating mechanism out of High molecular weight polyethylene (HMW)the stuff is supposed to last pretty much forever

I 'm using a disc with a collar around it. The center disc is stationary and attached to the cabinet and the collar around it is attached to the CP so there is NO center tube to get in the way.(it all comes apart with 8 screws so I can change anything inside easily) I'm working on a rough mock up right now with some moderate success(Everything does have to be absolutely accurate)

The thing I'm having a issue with now is the locking method
I understand the ball catch idea to hold in position but I want it to be rock solid when I'm playing.
I'm working on a spring-loded catch that locks in one of the the 4 positions, with a cable attached to the front of the panel that angles froward to let the CP rotate and relese the catch
(I'll post a picture here tomorrow)

Any other ideas on a locking mechanism that is not visible from the outside?

UnkleT,
thanks for the links

I'd seen the rototron, it's a great cab and the are some really creative solution there
I think there's a little too many choices there for my application
I want to keep the design simple, I don't feel the need to have every control configuration. I want to keep it a simple and streamlined as possible, keeping the change over to a couple of seconds

I haven't seen marks arcade before there are definitely some interesting ideas there

Here is a 5 panel rotating control panel.  Click on the following link and then select "Construction" to see how they used metal ........

http://www.marksarcade.com/


Here is one of my favorites:

http://rototron.info/

You may want to do look around for a better data connector solution.  Those RJ-45 plugs and jacks don't stand up to a huge amount of cycles... especially the tabs on the plugs.  They snap off like stale cookies.

ChadTower

This is something that gets plugged in and left, it only gets unplugged when I have to take the CP out. I had one on my phone as a kid and it lasted through my teenage years where I spent almost as much time on the phone as i did in the arcade, so plugging it in once and leaving it should be OK, only time will tell tough. Having said all that it will be very easy to replace on my cab or introduce a whole different system if need be, like a slip ring (thanks for the link ShavanahLion)

thanks for the heads-up

[hng]

How about a door lock? put a striker plate in each position, and have the lock mounted to the cabinet.

Of course you wouldn't want to use a big-ass brass door knob... take the knob of the shaft, and replace it with a low profile knob... like one of the replaceable spinner knobs.

or even better...

Electronic Keypad Powerbolt® 1000

[Bender]

Unfortunately it striker plate and the door plate would be visible from the outside
My goal is to have the locking mechanism be invisible, which pretty much means it has to be on the inside

How about a door lock? put a striker plate in each position, and have the lock mounted to the cabinet.

[Dudeman]

I'm using 3 ball catches on mine, and it seems REAL solid. I'm also looking at designing a slipring assy. I initial set up to only allow rotation part way, but I'd rather not have to pull the coin door open in order to spin the CP down. If I can get the slipring designed right, I'll only have to push the CP away from me, and have a cam that will push the coin door out of the way until the rotation is complete.

Word of warning, having enough clearance for the rotation without some sort of hinged panel may put your monitor a bit high.

Also, I'm using lazy susans and they work great.

[rdagger]

Along the lines of hng's suggestion, how about an electromagnetic lock such as this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280135836153

650 pounds should be more than enough strength and 12V could be powered from a computer p/s.
This should simplify the locking design.   Depending on the residual magnetic force, placement could be an issue.

[Bender]

Along the lines of hng's suggestion, how about an electromagnetic lock such as this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280135836153

650 pounds should be more than enough strength and 12V could be powered from a computer p/s.
This should simplify the locking design.   Depending on the residual magnetic force, placement could be an issue.

rdagger,

I LOVE IT 
Thanks so much
I can mount it inside underneath the cp and have a metal plate on each side of the CP
One question, that's a lot of magnetic force how will it interfere with the computer etc.?

[ChadTower]

It would definitely be bad for a CRT.  Very bad.  Possibly also for any hard drive in there as well.

[rdagger]

It would definitely be bad for a CRT.  Very bad.  Possibly also for any hard drive in there as well.

According to the lock vendor, these locks are safe for use around magnetic storage media and people with pace makers. 
From the vendor:

EMI (electromagnetic interference) emissions from electromagnetic locks are negligible. These types of locks contain the magnetic field internally within the magnet's metal core and armature assembly. When the door is closed and the lock is energized, the metal core to metal door armature contact forms a complete magnetic circuit with little or no stray magnetism being emitted. When the door is open and the lock is energized, a small magnetic field (about 1 gauss) is present up to 1 inch away from the face of the lock. This level drops to .5 gauss at a distance of 2 inches. At a distance of 1 inch from any of the other parts of the housing, a magnetic energy level of no more than 0.4 Gauss can be is measured. At 2 inches, the level of magnetic field emitted is less then the Earth's natural background magnetic field.

These locks probably have a weaker magnetic field than the typical speakers used in a cab.  I doubt they could damage anything unless placed within an inch of the CRT or HDD.

[SavannahLion]

650 pounds should be more than enough strength and 12V could be powered from a computer p/s.
This should simplify the locking design.   Depending on the residual magnetic force, placement could be an issue.

There's an interesting typo. According to the SDC website, that lock is capable of 1650lbs of holding force. 

Anyways, I'm not sure if it's the same technique used, but we have electromagnetic holders similar to the holder by ESL/GE. When the power goes out, the magnets release and the doors close. The magnets run hot to the touch, likely from the current running through them.

Something to consider since kids might come into contact with the magnet or the trapped heat might need to be factored in.

[rdagger]

There's an interesting typo. According to the SDC website, that lock is capable of 1650lbs of holding force. 
Anyways, I'm not sure if it's the same technique used, but we have electromagnetic holders similar to the holder by ESL/GE. When the power goes out, the magnets release and the doors close. The magnets run hot to the touch, likely from the current running through them.
Something to consider since kids might come into contact with the magnet or the trapped heat might need to be factored in.

The website states 650 pounds for the model 1581 in the auction.  They also have a model 1511 that is 1650 pounds.  According to the vendor the locks don't get any hotter than 100° F.  The top of my computer case is currently at 100.5° F (I just happen to have a handheld infrared thermometer on my desk).
I'm not endorsing these locks, I just think it is a cool solution (no pun).  I would definitely add an illuminated toggle switch to the cab that reads "electromagnetic field engaged".

[hng]

I would definitely add an illuminated toggle switch to the cab that reads "electromagnetic field engaged".

and it has to have the red safety over it

[SavannahLion]

There's an interesting typo. According to the SDC website, that lock is capable of 1650lbs of holding force. 
Anyways, I'm not sure if it's the same technique used, but we have electromagnetic holders similar to the holder by ESL/GE. When the power goes out, the magnets release and the doors close. The magnets run hot to the touch, likely from the current running through them.
Something to consider since kids might come into contact with the magnet or the trapped heat might need to be factored in.

The website states 650 pounds for the model 1581 in the auction.  They also have a model 1511 that is 1650 pounds.  According to the vendor the locks don't get any hotter than 100° F.  The top of my computer case is currently at 100.5° F (I just happen to have a handheld infrared thermometer on my desk).
I'm not endorsing these locks, I just think it is a cool solution (no pun).  I would definitely add an illuminated toggle switch to the cab that reads "electromagnetic field engaged".

Check again

Straight off the website for the 1581

The SDC 1581 EMLock Electromagnetic Lock features interchangeable and upgradeable modular assemblies allowing the unit to grow with your needs. These are designed to be capable of 1650 lbs of holding force. Various input/output modules like an adjustable timer, door position sensor, magnetic bond sensor, anti-tamper sensor and more further enhances its overall performance.

There's a typo somewhere. I'm pretty sure that 295Kg != 1650lbs. Unless my own math is way off.

[IceCold]

The one on the website that only holds 650 lbs is the 1581SV model.  As far as I can tell, the only differences are that it's smaller(?) and has a little different feature set(seems to be for safety.  It says it has delayed egress, which http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_go2659/is_200307/ai_n9017545 explains as:

 "DELAYED EGRESS HARDWARE prevents a door from being opened from the egress side, usually for a period of 15 seconds. This type of device is often used to prevent theft while maintaining life safety. The system is most commonly comprised of an exit device incorporating delayed egress features or an electromagnetic lock and power supply, one of which would contain delayed egress circuitry. When the device is actuated, the door remains locked on the egress side for 15 seconds and then releases to allow egress., and is also  much more costly.")


The standard 1581v model holds 1650lbs, and I'm pretty sure is the one in the auction(though it doesn't really specify, but i'm sure if it was the more expensive one they would mention that)


Oh, and to stay on topic - I love the idea for a Futurama themed arcade cabinet!  Futurama art would definitely look awesome on a cab, and there were a bunch of great video game references in the show 

[rdagger]

Check again
Straight off the website for the 1581
There's a typo somewhere. I'm pretty sure that 295Kg != 1650lbs. Unless my own math is way off.

It's not your math, it's the site.  I think www.allthingspos.com is just a reseller with messed up descriptions.
Here is the manufacturers actual site:  http://www.sdcsecurity.com/series.aspx?id=3
sorry for too much off topic...
And I agree that the Futurama artwork is a great theme.  There are so many cool things in the show that could be incorporated into this cab.

[SavannahLion]

I thought that was the OEM. Oops. 

Back on topic.

Any other ideas on a locking mechanism that is not visible from the outside?

A solenoid. You can find them online at Digikey, Mouser and Ebay to name a few. Or physically at Pick & Pull junk yards or any decent electronic chop shop (the legal kind).

[Xiaou2]

 Just a thought... but,  That magnetic holding device may not be
designed for long term "ON"  status.    (esp considering what
was written below)

 If on too long, maybe it could overheat and burn out.

 Not to mention,  its not the most Green way to do things.
(constant power on = waste   )

[Bender]

I'm defiantly using a smart strip so the magnet would only be on while the game was on(I don't like leaving things on when I don't need to). The cp will be held in place by a ball catch when the magnet is not on.

Also I found these magnetic featerboard lockdowns at woodcraft and took them apart. I found that if I place one ontop of the other it doubles the magnetic force and one on/off nob works for both of them. so I could have one on each side of the cp and one fixed in the cab with the on/off nob. I think its like 600lbs of breackaway presure so I don't think it will go anywhere. I think I might be able to use them insted, no electricity at all! and I wouldn't need the ball catch back-up

[vertygo]

I'd love an update on this project, as I'm seriously considering a rotating control panel

[Bender]

FINALLY an update EHH! (this is a long one so please bare with me, there are some pictures to look at though)
I had an enormous amount of work for the last few months so the project was on hold (except for gathering even more parts)
I decided, after seeing Artifact's project thread as well as a few others, that for something this complicated it would be better to build it first in the computer using Sketch-UP very cool free program! I'll post all of the components I made for this project somewhere when it's all done (Maybe a BYOAC parts depot, any ideas Saint? )
So with some inspiration and wiki help from Artifact I'm teaching myself Sketch Up
the folowing are the results for the control panels
I'd love some input on each layout or any suggestions on swapping items around.
list of controllers has grown (must stop buying parts, must stop buying parts, someone stop me before I buy more parts! Oh My, that Major Havoc roller over at Ram Controls sure looks nice )

IN THE 4 SIDED ROTATING PANEL
Please not each panel has
4 white buttons for Player 1, Coin 1, Player 2, Coin 2
3 Black admin buttons for Enter, Exit, Pause + Shift function for more admin functionality




1. Fighter Panel:
    2 Ultimarc U360 Joysticks
    1 Happ 3" Trackball (this was the original plan but see below for a new idea)
    2 Sets of 7 buttons




2. Star Wars Panel:
    Original Star Wars Yolk (doubles as a 270 steering wheel)
    Happ Turbo Shifter
    4 buttons
    2 Happ 3" Trackballs+Buttons (this is a new Idea I came up with to be able to play 2 player Marble Madness, but I don't think I want to do both this and the single trackball from the first panel)




3. Tron/Ikari panel
    2 Tron Joysticks w/2 thumb buttons
    2 Apache push/pull Spinners (oh yeah! call any one say Discs of Tron!)
    2 SNK 8 way mechanical rotary joysticks (ikari)
    1 Ultimarc mag-Stick Plus 4-way/8-way (for the restictor feel in the classics)
    4 additional buttons for each player




4. Driving Panel:
    Pole Position style 360 Steering Wheel
    4 buttons
    Act Labs RS Shifter (with switchable plates to get a true all in one shifter, all Hail Saint and his book for this but one of a million incredible suggestions that make attempting this cab even a possibility, let me say Thanks Again!!
   

Not on rotating panel but some where in the cab there will be:
    Side Buttons for Virtual Pinball (I have to find a way to do this so that the button is only 3/4" deep as not to interfere with the rotating panel)
    Petals for driving games
    Power button
    Volume/Mute/Headphone jack
    2 act Labs PC Light guns (I was hesitant to pick these up as I was never that into the light gun games in the arcade, mostly because I sucked at them and they sucked up all my quarters. But I have got to say not having to put quarters in I really got sucked in as I was "testing" them and man are they a hell of a lot of fun, especially with two players.)

Phew!

Any suggestions?
Thanks so much!!

PS: Futurama is Back November 27th with "Bender's big score" on DVD! BUY IT we want more Futurama and a whole lot more Bender!
 

[Spyridon]

    2 Tron Joysticks w/2 thumb buttons
 

Why the 2 Tron sticks?  Can you play Discs of Tron with 2 players?

[Bender]

    2 Tron Joysticks w/2 thumb buttons
 

Why the 2 Tron sticks?  Can you play Discs of Tron with 2 players?

No unfortunately you can't play Discs of tron two player simultaneously
but there are a few 4-way, 8-way and 2-way games that use dual trigger sticks including:

2-way:
Battle Zone
Ultra Tank
Tank 8
Sarge

4-way:
Assault
Inferno

8-Way:
Future Spy
Strategy
SDI - Strategic Defense Initiative
Tube Panic   
Block Out
Nova 2001
Shadow Warriors

[dmworking247]

This is a very ambitious project (and expensive too)... I'll be very interested to see it move into reality.

As far as 'frankenpanels' go though, I can see this being one of (if not the very) best examples of how to have every control combination available.

[vertygo]

Do you plan on having this panel do full 360 rotation over and over ? or will it only spin a certain amount ?

The reason I ask is because I've been struggling to figure out how the wire from the CP to the PC works without getting pulled too much.. is it just alot of slack and the panel stops rotating one direction after 3 turns ?

[Bender]

Do you plan on having this panel do full 360 rotation over and over ? or will it only spin a certain amount ?

The reason I ask is because I've been struggling to figure out how the wire from the CP to the PC works without getting pulled too much.. is it just alot of slack and the panel stops rotating one direction after 3 turns ?

I am designing it  rotate 360 in either direction infinitely
at the beginning of the thread I talk about hacking a usb cable and a phone Cord detangler
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68865.msg702415#msg702415

Savannahlion suggested something called a slip ring which is exactly what we need (although I'm going to try my hack first)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68865.msg703897#msg703897

[vertygo]

Excellent!

Anyone know if you pulled apart a usb cable, could you attach the stripped wires to a slip ring, then reverse it for the other side and connect to the PC ? And what if you wanted more than one connection, ie add some power for LEDs ?

[BrentRadio]

What is the total cost of just the controls? That's gotta be some serious dough!

Brent