Author Topic: Glowing buttons (Read 12345 times)

1UP · « **Reply #40 on:** March 23, 2002, 04:31:38 pm »

So are RGB LEDs the same as Tri-Color LEDs?

BTW, Andy confirms that it's 10ma max for the LED harness, and suggests we go with the transistor method (using transistors to switch the larger current needed to drive the high-intensity LEDs.)

Carsten Carlos · « **Reply #41 on:** March 23, 2002, 04:44:26 pm »

Quote

If you figure out the right resistor to use on the transistor, let me know!

Guess it isn't blown yet, but better to be on the safe-side! When I figure it out, I'll let you know. For now, I only know it'd be a pnp-type, have to find some data-sheets to calculate everything. A I-pac to test would be perfect too, I hope Andy get fixed his store-issue soon so I can get his interesting joysticks in one parcel, too. Anyway, who needs an Ipac without joysticks?

Funny, didn't thought that you call the RGB-LED's different then here. There are so many english-names in electronics that I thought it shall be the same

Although I find RGB quite logical, at least I think you also have an RGB-input on your arcade-monitors and most never TV's.

Carsten Carlos · « **Reply #42 on:** March 23, 2002, 07:03:04 pm »

Can't test it though for I haven't got the transistor right here, nor do I have the I-pac yet.
But I'm pretty sure it should work!

On the other hand, it is 3:54 am here, so it is still possible that I made mistakes.
The transistor is a pnp-type, I choosed the BC516 'cause it was the first one I found a datasheet online. It's pretty cheap, manufactured by Siemens, and is capable to bear 500mA. Shall be enough to lit all LED's you want. Just repeat the circuit for each LED. By the way, I don't think the 3rd LED is ever used in games, or may I be wrong?

Here we go:

I'll test it as soon I've got the parts, but that could take some time. Just get a fingertip on the transistor if it wents hot, although I couldn't believe that it would even get warm!

SirPoonga · « **Reply #43 on:** March 23, 2002, 07:11:57 pm »

There are games that use the third led. There are 3 player games. htere are games that use them to not indicat coins. I've looked through the source, some drivers use alot of leds, just they can;t implement them all...

Carsten Carlos · « **Reply #44 on:** March 23, 2002, 07:25:15 pm »

Quote

There are games that use the third led. There are 3 player games. htere are games that use them to not indicat coins.

Hm, for now I can't support 3player games anyway, but if some games use them for other reasons...
Damned, under which button do I hook the 3rd LED? At least it would be funny if it lits unexpected during gameplay!

SirPoonga · « **Reply #45 on:** March 23, 2002, 07:53:57 pm »

I'm just going to hook up the two start buttons (Num Locks and Caps).

It'll look cool. The buttons I found are red with the word start on them.

1UP · « **Reply #46 on:** March 23, 2002, 11:47:30 pm »

Quote

I'm just going to hook up the two start buttons (Num Locks and Caps).

It'll look cool.

JMDickson · « **Reply #47 on:** March 25, 2002, 11:49:35 am »

Quote

So are RGB LEDs the same as Tri-Color LEDs?

Nope, tri-color (like bi-color) use both a red and a green chip, but they have 3 pins. Ground the center pin then turn on one side to get red, the other side to get green, and both to get yellow.

Following this logic RGB leds would be sold as sept-color

Carsten Carlos · « **Reply #48 on:** March 25, 2002, 12:18:35 pm »

Quote

Nope, tri-color (like bi-color) use both a red and a green chip, but they have 3 pins.

Ah, at least my electronic-shop is much more honest - they call it Bicolor, never heard of tri-color anyway

How do they call the RGB-LED's then, 16.7million-color?

SirPoonga · « **Reply #49 on:** March 25, 2002, 06:04:43 pm »

Is there any led from radio shack that might work? I'm still a little confused at what to look for. Just need two of them? If you know of a led and part number from a company let me know...

1UP · « **Reply #50 on:** March 25, 2002, 06:44:48 pm »

Quote

Is there any led from radio shack that might work?

1UP · « **Reply #51 on:** March 25, 2002, 09:17:12 pm »

BTW, for those of you still planning to light up vertical (ultimate) pushbuttons, here's a recent testimonial from another thread as to why this is a bad idea:

I've got some vertical pushbuttons on my controller, which I really haven't used much, but some of them are starting to stick already.

Additionally, when new, the vertical buttons require more force to actuate.

Bob

And this is a description of this "major design flaw" from the "Controls" page on this site:

1. The prong on the bottom of the plunger slowly wears away and pushes outward, the button becomes less responsive (you really have to hit it to get a response.)
2. The pushbutton was so badly made in the first place that there is room for the plunger to move side to side in the barrel rather than just up and down, if you don't hit the button dead centre the prong goes right past the actuator without closing the switch.

It is just as easy to mount the LEDs in horizontal PBs as the verts, and if anything, you'll get a more even spread of light by mounting them down on the floor of a horiz PB as opposed to the shelf of the verts that is less than half an inch from the button itself.

It's great to have them light up, but let's make sure they last for awhile too!

SirPoonga · « **Reply #52 on:** March 25, 2002, 11:44:47 pm »

This post is way too popular. It;s almost goign to rival the "All IE 6 User" post.

bowmand1 · « **Reply #53 on:** March 26, 2002, 05:40:46 am »

problem is, maybe I just haven't paid all that much attention, but I can't recall seeing all too many games with lit pushbuttons... so, really, how authentic are we being here?!

Still, I'm prolly gonna do it to my CP. Just cuz it's cool.

haha

I'm buying my marquee light tonight, and probably installing it on Friday. Which means I'm going to have to actually spend some time designing a real marquee to put up there, instead of the printer paper cutouts I've got jammed in there as a placeholder. <sigh> a real man's work is NEVER done.

peace, y'all. --dave

SirPoonga · « **Reply #54 on:** March 26, 2002, 10:04:16 am »

Well, for starters. almost every single atari game. Remember the silver socne red lit hat switch in asteroids or sprint?

Here, these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1086038293

bowmand1 · « **Reply #55 on:** March 26, 2002, 12:06:42 pm »

okay...well, YEAH I remember those! But, I'm talking about the subject of this thread, which is the illumination of standard pushbuttons, of the "action" variety... Name a couple games that have THOSE lit up! --dave

no disrespect intended, Poonga... I've just never seen em.

Carsten Carlos · « **Reply #56 on:** March 26, 2002, 12:28:49 pm »

:)Well, I fear there are not enough Atari-playerbuttons out there for all of us, otherwise we might take them?

At least it would be something different on the panel - no, I won't bid for them!

1UP · « **Reply #57 on:** March 26, 2002, 12:41:40 pm »

How about Missile Command?

Warborg · « **Reply #58 on:** December 12, 2002, 06:17:33 pm »

Quote from: Peeper on March 23, 2002, 11:18:40 am

Quote

AHA!

planetjay · « **Reply #59 on:** December 12, 2002, 06:40:45 pm »

Why I? Because C was all ready taken for Capacitance.

Seriously I think it has to do with induction. You know inducing current into a wire...

If I have to I'll find my electronics texts books from school. But in the mean time check out BasicElectronics.com

Warborg · « **Reply #60 on:** December 12, 2002, 07:09:51 pm »

Quote from: planetjay on December 12, 2002, 06:40:45 pm

Why I? Because C was all ready taken for Capacitance.

Seriously I think it has to do with induction. You know inducing current into a wire...

If I have to I'll find my electronics texts books from school. But in the mean time check out BasicElectronics.com

Yeah, I think it stands for Inductance.

planetjay · « **Reply #61 on:** December 12, 2002, 07:11:17 pm »

I should get a cookie or something.

MooFrog · « **Reply #62 on:** December 12, 2002, 08:34:56 pm »

So... tell me why inductance is L then?

If I remember my circuit theory as well as I should, this will all make sense (although it will be totally useless except for info's sake)
The I wouldn't stand for inductance, but rather the induced current caused by applying a voltage through a resistance. What is commonly known as Ohm's Law (V=IR) is not the law Ohm put forward, his was closer to "There is a direct relationship between voltage and current through a resistance in some types of solids". This causes it to be an actual law, as the relationship V=IR doesn't hold for the entire range of all circuits, including some types of transistors.

Boy, what a useless little post!

planetjay · « **Reply #63 on:** December 12, 2002, 08:42:13 pm »

InductION not InductANCE.

Also resistance is resistance. And E will always be IR. The internal resistance of some components adds to R. Including the internal resistance of a battery if the circuit is powered by one. But still E=IR.

spidermonkey · « **Reply #64 on:** December 13, 2002, 02:06:12 am »

Didn't Williams use a light/lights under the translucent buttons on Robotron and Sinistar ? I played an old Sinistar machine down at the Jersey shore last summer and I may be wrong but I could swear that the buttons were rather dim but none the less lighted. Unlike the cool dark and eery arcade rooms of the 80s' this place was pretty well lit

so maybe it was the overhead lights that were reflecting off the buttons that made me think that they were actually lit up but I don't think so.
Williams game experts, can you confirm this or was I just seeing things

planetjay · « **Reply #65 on:** December 13, 2002, 12:39:48 pm »

Sure. Quite a few games used translucent bottons that were lit from inside the control panel.


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