did i just screw my self

[clickhea]

I routed out just enough of the wood on top of the control panel to have the joystick plate sit flush with the wood (for a top mount)

For some reason, it never crossed my mind that any kinda screw i use to fasten the plate to the wood will not allow the CPO to sit flush.

did i screw my self? the only option i can think of now to hold the plate in place would be glue

(these are u360's top mounted into 3/4 mdf)

[Circo]

Can't you just use a flush mount screw??

[clickhea]

the u360 plates are not countersunk

[clickhea]

also, how do i mount the trackball using the mounting plate.. i already routed out enough wood for the plate to sit flush, but again theres no way to secure it to the wood

[Neverending Project]

I just had this conversation in another thread (link). Since you already routed the CP for top-mounting the 360s, I would suggest just getting a counter-sink bit that will work in metal, and drill a counter-sink in the 360 mounting plate. Then you can use flat-head screws to mount it, and hopefully they will be invisible.

[clickhea]

i gotcha,

how bout the trackball mounting plate, theres no holes like the joystick mounting plate to throw screws through

[Hoopz]

i gotcha,

how bout the trackball mounting plate, theres no holes like the joystick mounting plate to throw screws through

You screw the trackball assembly onto the mounting plate from below the CP. 

[Zobeid]

The other approach would be to sink the U360 a little deeper, so that the screw heads (and the plastic dust washer, if you wish) can go underneath your control panel overlay.  That's assuming you're using a CPO.  This would be one reason to use one, so you can hide stuff under it.

[clickhea]

yeah iam planning on using a CPO.

if i sunk them even deeper would that cause any complications with the CPO?

[Zobeid]

Complications?  Not sure what complications you are thinking of. . .

The only problem would be if you are putting on a sheet of flexible vinyl and calling it a CPO.  Then you'd have problems with the vinyl sagging into the empty space, or the adhesive causing problems.  A proper CPO is something like acrylic plastic.

[clickhea]

yeah thats what i was thinking, that it would sink into the hole

[MaximRecoil]

Complications?  Not sure what complications you are thinking of. . .

The only problem would be if you are putting on a sheet of flexible vinyl and calling it a CPO.  Then you'd have problems with the vinyl sagging into the empty space, or the adhesive causing problems.  A proper CPO is something like acrylic plastic.

How did thick, rigid plexiglas become a "proper" CPO when probably 99% of original dedicated machines used thin, flexible Lexan as a CPO?

Aside from certain Nintendo machines, pretty much all rigid plexiglas on arcade machine CP's was operator-applied, usually during a conversion so they didn't have to fix the Swiss-cheesed control panel properly.

[Zobeid]

How did thick, rigid plexiglas become a "proper" CPO when probably 99% of original dedicated machines used thin, flexible Lexan as a CPO?

I said a proper CPO is something like acrylic plastic.  Lexan is something like acrylic plastic.     You may call it thin and flexible, but it's nothing like a vinyl sticker.  Lexan shouldn't sag into any recesses in the top of your panel.

As far as I can remember, most original dedicated machines had metal control panels (in some cases with wood underneath, so that the metal effectively served as a CPO) or they used something like melamine or formica without any CPO at all (and had exposed carriage bolts and dust washers, much like a HotRod controller).

[clickhea]

iam gonna try to coutnersink the u360 plates i really hope this works out :[

[MaximRecoil]

How did thick, rigid plexiglas become a "proper" CPO when probably 99% of original dedicated machines used thin, flexible Lexan as a CPO?

I said a proper CPO is something like acrylic plastic.  Lexan is something like acrylic plastic.    

So is vinyl by that line of reasoning. The difference here is that plexiglas is thick and rigid (usually at least 1/16" thick) while the Lexan used for original CPO's is not.

You may call it thin and flexible, but it's nothing like a vinyl sticker. 

I call it thin and flexible because the Lexan they use for CPO's is generally .015" to .020" (15 to 20 thousandths of an inch) thick. That's about the thickness of cloth or heavy paper, and it is indeed, "thin and flexible".

Lexan shouldn't sag into any recesses in the top of your panel.

And why not?

As far as I can remember, most original dedicated machines had metal control panels (in some cases with wood underneath, so that the metal effectively served as a CPO)

What do you think is on top of those metal control panels? Or on top of the wood control panels for that matter? Typically; thin and flexible clear Lexan that has been reverse screen printed with the artwork on the underside of it and adhesive-backed. This is the industry standard for "control panel overlays", and not just for arcade machines, but for all manner of commercial/industrial machinery.

or they used something like melamine or formica without any CPO at all (and had exposed carriage bolts and dust washers, much like a HotRod controller).

Care to name one?

[Zobeid]

So is vinyl by that line of reasoning. The difference here is that plexiglas is thick and rigid (usually at least 1/16" thick) while the Lexan used for original CPO's is not.

Are we talking about the same Lexan here?  As far as I know, Lexan is polycarbonate.  It's what aircraft canopies are made of.  It's what safety glasses are made of.  It's what CDs and DVDs are made of.  It's a hard, stiff material.

What do you think is on top of those metal control panels? Or on top of the wood control panels for that matter?

Either paint or vinyl stickers, I always assumed.

As a purely practical matter. . . .

If you only put something soft (like vinyl) on the top of your control panel, then you have to make the panel reasonably smooth.  If there are recesses, then you have to cover them with something stiff.  Having recessed components and covering with with something soft -- anything soft -- wasn't done in the old days for the same reason we don't do it today: because it doesn't work.

If you want to hide screws, bolts, dust washers, things like that. . .   Then you practically need something stiff to cover them up.  That could be acrylic, it could be metal, it could be something else.  I'm not picky, but I'm just saying that's how it has to be arranged.

[MaximRecoil]

So is vinyl by that line of reasoning. The difference here is that plexiglas is thick and rigid (usually at least 1/16" thick) while the Lexan used for original CPO's is not.

Are we talking about the same Lexan here?  As far as I know, Lexan is polycarbonate.  It's what aircraft canopies are made of.  It's what safety glasses are made of.  It's what CDs and DVDs are made of.  It's a hard, stiff material.

It is not a hard and stiff material when it is only .015" or .020" thick. You can roll it up like a poster and ship it in a mailing tube. In fact, I have an NOS "Street Fighter II: The World Warrior" Lexan CPO in the other room that is rolled up in just such a manner. How do you think it conforms to bends in the control panel? And yes, Lexan is polycarbonate.

What do you think is on top of those metal control panels? Or on top of the wood control panels for that matter?

Either paint or vinyl stickers, I always assumed.

No, they are made of Lexan. There are a few that are silk-screened and painted directly to the steel (Asteroids comes to mind) but that is the exception rather than the rule. Nearly any game you'd care to name came with a thin, flexible Lexan CPO with the artwork reverse-printed on the underside of it from the factory, whether it was a wood or steel CP.

Edit: This is a typical CPO thickness Lexan as used on most original arcade machines:





I know because I had it screen-printed, and I specified the material.

[clickhea]

if anyone runs into the same problem and comes across this thread in their search..

the countersink of the u360 plates works perfect.

[DeLuSioNal29]

if anyone runs into the same problem and comes across this thread in their search..

the countersink of the u360 plates works perfect.

Great to hear!  I'm glad that's an option, as my next CP will most likely use those.

~ DeLuSioNaL

[badkitty]

i know the point is probably moot by now, but i wanted to add my 3cents , in case someone else has this problem, more ideas are always good.

 I ran into that problem with my trackball, simpe solution, i hot glued the crap out of it, and i mean FILLED the 1/4'' gap all the way around it. a good 100hrs+ has been put on to it and its rock solid.