arcade monitor problem, won't turn on on first switch (still need help)

[TheRed]

Thanks! Will get the cap kit done.


what should it register on the multimeter?  where should I take it from?

[grantspain]

set your meter to a/c voltage and place each probe on each of the monitor input wires,you should get 110v a/c
like i said before these chassis are very old and prone to bad solder joints,you are gonna have to remove the chassis i'm afraid and take a good look-if you really feel that you are not confident at doing this then maybe someone on this forum who resides close to you can help you out,i'm afraid i live in spain so it may be a bit far to travel but if i lived close to anyone on this forum i would be more than happy to assist

[grantspain]

hang on!does your game play blind when the screen don't come on?

[TheRed]

hang on!does your game play blind when the screen don't come on?

Yeah, everything else is working just fine.  I hear the game going through and coin inserts work etc. Basically everything but a picture.

I stuck the two probles in the back of the molex on the two outputs that go to the monitor from the psu and got about 113v on average....

Is it supposed to be exactly 110v?

[Kevin Mullins]

I stuck the two probles in the back of the molex on the two outputs that go to the monitor from the psu and got about 113v on average....

113v is fine.... AC will fluctuate a little.... no exact science there.

And this is what you got when everything except the monitor was on?
Do you get this reading all the way up the monitor chassis as well? (where it's soldered or connects straight to the chassis)

I was just trying to elimate anything dumb like a flaky fuse or connector or anything like that.
But you may want to wiggle the video input connector a little while it's doing that just to see if that effects it.
I personally would also push down lightly on different areas of the chassis to see if that effects it. (bad solder joints)

[Lutus]

I have a digdug machine that will "play blind".  I am curious what grantspain has to say about this.

[grantspain]

playing blind is an extremely quick way for engineers to fault find,basically 3 main faults occur on video games-monitor/power supply/game board(then you have minor faults like switch inputs/credit problems etc)-so first thing to do;switch power on and insert coin/press service credit switch-do you get sounds then that proves your psu and game board are fine therefore your fault can be traced to the monitor or its input voltage
if you get no sound/no monitor meter the psu voltages,if they all correct then you have a game board fault-another handy tip is if you have no picture then turn up the screen volts on the flyback to see if you get a blank raster,that proves the fault lies on the psu or game board
these are processes that take seconds to perform and save you hours of back tracking-this is fault diagnosis in its essence( a process of elimination)
once you have diagnosed the faulty area then its just a case of repair/replacement-you are talking minutes not days

[TheRed]

well, it looks like the guy who sold me this has left me hanging. I am ok with taking the caps out and replacing them, but I am really worried about taking off the board to do it.

Does anyone know of any NORTH BAY AREA members that might be willing to come by and help me get it off...and maybe show me how I will have to put it back on?

[TheRed]

I am thinking about trying the full cap kit myself.....BUT...


.... I just noticed something on the little pcb that connects to the neck. There's somesolders on the bottom that have what looks like rust around the solder spot. Is this the leaking I have been hearing about? Which means what exactly?


Since it still works, I can save it?

I can still clean that up when I swap caps?

I need to get on this ASAP! before it's too late?

I should call the coin op guy NOW to fix it?

It's already too late?

I can get some pictures, but super close ups always turn out blurry with this cam.

[TheRed]

the top one has another right above it that has that stuff to and are both coming off of a plastic white rectangle. The other one looks to me below a connector that has one black wire coming out of it and going to the tupe.  Would these be causing this problem?  What can I do about it?

[TheRed]

Just checked and all 3 or 4 of those little boxes have that rust looking stuff under them and they have these numbers on them.

BSR5.......5.6k (then the upside down horse shoe looking thing) J

KOA........394



What are these? Should I take them off and try and see if my parts store has them? I think I have seen things like these there before.


Any help would be appreciated...AS USUAL

THANKS GUYS!!!!

[SirPeale]

Looks like flux.  That's ok.

[Kevin Mullins]

Agreed.... I'd bet if you put the soldering iron to it, that it will bubble up and come right off along with the solder.

[TheRed]

OK, thanks! I was worried

No if I can just get the balls to discharge the monitor and pull this thing out of the cab.


ANY ADVICE ON DISCONNECTING THE MAIN WIRES?

what should I take apart?

Do I pull the whole thing out, set it down on the wood I laid out, and then just unscrew the board? and go from there?

The part I am worried about is....

1: discharging

2: Disconnecting the wires that come off of the tube to the board


advice?

Once I get the monitor out and the board off....I should be ok from there to swap everything in and out.

[TheRed]

Ok, I opened everything up, discharged the monitor, took off the chassis, took it down to HSC, looked over it and saw one cap was leaking. I got that cap and replaced it. Put everything back together and still have the same problem. I am just glad it worked when I hooked it back up, lol.

Anyways, I guess the next step is just to replace them all. I am kinda proud of myself though anyways,lol...I can now take apart monitors and replace caps. Nice skill to have.


wanted to say thanks to everyone for all of the help!


Only real problem I ran into and couldn't get passed was getting the damn board out of that black plastic thing. I just took out every screw I could see, including the one in the middle, but it wouldn't budge.

[z28dan]

Did this ever get resolved? I've got an LA riders with the same issue. It had a cap kit in 2007 so I doubt it needs it again.
Turn the game on at first and no picture, let it warm up, still no picture.
turn it off and back on and the monitor fires right up.
Any input would be appreciated