Author Topic: White Bars - FIXED (Read 6979 times)

scottyfryer · « **on:** May 09, 2006, 12:06:58 pm »

I'm having an issue where I'm getting white bars from objects on the screen that go across to the right of the screen. I figured it was because the monitor was set too bright but i've tried adjusting all the pots and even the dial for the black on the monitor. nothing seems to be taking it away. would a Cap kit fix this? It's doing this on both a PCB board and the J-Pac. I've tried adjusting it for 2 hours. Would an improper ground cause this as well?

Harry Potter · « **Reply #1 on:** May 10, 2006, 11:08:59 am »

Have you tried the knobs on the flyback transformer (see pic). One of the knobs does focus and the other is a form of brightness or something (I can't remember the proper term).

scottyfryer · « **Reply #2 on:** May 10, 2006, 11:26:04 am »

yeah that was the one i meant that was on the monitor.. the other knobs are attached inside my podium stand. Here's a pic of the machine to show you what i mean.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #3 on:** May 10, 2006, 01:37:45 pm »

That other knob on the flyback is the SCREEN voltage.....
(and that's what I was going to suggest) $:-\$

scottyfryer · « **Reply #4 on:** May 10, 2006, 02:21:16 pm »

I tried adjusting both with no avail.. tried every combination i could of those knobs and the brightness and contrast knobs as well. Just cant seem to get ride of the lines. They're more annoying then anything.

grantspain · « **Reply #5 on:** May 10, 2006, 02:42:53 pm »

when you mean lines do you mean bars of about an inch wide or thin line going in a slightly diagonal direction,because one is a cap fault and one is the screen volts too hich

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #6 on:** May 10, 2006, 03:57:23 pm »

Do all the knobs (potentiometers) have an effect of some sort on the screen?
Are there any that don't seem to do anything?
Brightness and contrast in particular.

You should be able to turn the SCREEN pot down on the flyback to a pitch black screen.

Do the white bars just come from "objects" or is it over the entire screen?
Just one side or area.....or do they show up everywhere?

Just trying to get a good idea what all it's doing.
Like grantspain said..... might be a cap...... might not be.

scottyfryer · « **Reply #7 on:** May 11, 2006, 08:57:15 am »

Even if i turn the knob on the fly back all the way down and turn the contrast and brightness up from the other knobs the lines are still there. An example is in double dragon when the garage door is closed the lines from the white sections of the door go right across the screen. Not so much white as off coloured i guess. Then when the door opens all the lines go up with it. Then the wall in the background with the wanted posters etc also has the trails on it and so do the characters. The Title screen double dragon and the health meter at the bottom and what not.

dougman · « **Reply #8 on:** May 11, 2006, 11:15:01 am »

sounds like you are talking about the colours are bleeding across the screen or something. A pic would help a lot though.

scottyfryer · « **Reply #9 on:** May 11, 2006, 02:23:07 pm »

K i'll try and get a pic tonight if i can.

sneek · « **Reply #10 on:** May 11, 2006, 11:14:31 pm »

Like this ?

I have the same problem

scottyfryer · « **Reply #11 on:** May 12, 2006, 02:05:11 pm »

Yep that same problem.

Harry Potter · « **Reply #12 on:** May 12, 2006, 03:49:39 pm »

A combination of brightness and contrast?

or mebby your tube is getting old. I remember this sorta thing used to happen on my parents TV (which was 20 years or so old)

sneek · « **Reply #13 on:** May 14, 2006, 11:03:08 am »

I don't think its age.

At least in my case it happened inbetween transport... so hopefully its just something im missing.

Sorry... im not trying to hijack the thread.

scottyfryer · « **Reply #14 on:** May 16, 2006, 12:37:21 pm »

Yeah i think mine was working fine until i transported it to my house in my minivan. the monitor is huge with the screen size of 33" and it was sliding around in my van. Maybe it's damaged. Just wish i knew what needed to be fixed.

Jess-- · « **Reply #15 on:** May 16, 2006, 02:40:35 pm »

have a good check around the caps on the tube base (the board on the back of the tube)
also check the ground connection to the board is solid
also check the ground connections on the video inputs (this will usually result in a dull and smeared image)

fairway2000 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 16, 2006, 09:35:10 pm »

Wow one I can help on.I had this on a game I moved.The flyback broke a solder joint on the board.Must have been from being on the side and the flyback bouncing.
Hope this helps

scottyfryer · « **Reply #17 on:** May 17, 2006, 09:47:10 am »

Cool thanks guys i'll have a look when i get a chance.. Might just end up paying someone to fix it since i'm not good with this stuff. But i'm in Whitby ontario Canada, so it might be tough to find someone.

sneek · « **Reply #18 on:** May 17, 2006, 08:33:46 pm »

Quote from: fairway2000 on May 16, 2006, 09:35:10 pm

Wow one I can help on.I had this on a game I moved.The flyback broke a solder joint on the board.Must have been from being on the side and the flyback bouncing.
Hope this helps

Did you fix it yourself or just get a tech in to do the job ?

scottyfryer · « **Reply #19 on:** June 23, 2006, 01:28:08 pm »

Any one here know of someone that fixes arcade monitors in the Toronto Canada area. I don't have the time or patience to do it and rather just pay someone to fix it.

scottyfryer · « **Reply #20 on:** July 13, 2006, 10:42:18 am »

Last night i took another look at it and noticed the back of the screen it has what looks like 2 resisters (not much knowledge of electronics). on the left side it has a spot that has a H above it and the right has one with a V above it. The spot with the V has one and the one with the H looks like its not there but looks like there was one on it. Now i'm guessing that H and V stands for horizontal and Vertical. Would this be causing the problem of these white lines? I tried to take a pic of the inside but my cellphone cam sucks. Heres a pic of the screen and what it looks like.

grantspain · « **Reply #21 on:** July 13, 2006, 12:42:53 pm »

looks like ht smoothing cap is shot,i have just had a hantarex do exactly the same but i had to replace every electrolitic on the monitor(can't remember you stating what model monitor you have),some monitors like nanoa's have an electrolitic cap on the neck board that gives same fault-your fault being colour bleeding and a darkness on the tube to the left,correct???

eccs19 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 18, 2006, 03:26:41 pm »

Quote from: scottyfryer on June 23, 2006, 01:28:08 pm

Any one here know of someone that fixes arcade monitors in the Toronto Canada area. I don't have the time or patience to do it and rather just pay someone to fix it.

This guy is near London. I've used him, very helpful.

www.wolfelectronics.ca

scottyfryer · « **Reply #23 on:** August 02, 2006, 07:52:59 am »

Ok i took some more pics. This is what i was talking about the resistor or whatever it is that seems to be missing or blew. Would this be causing the White Bars and does anyone know what part this is and how easy it is to replace.

grantspain · « **Reply #24 on:** August 02, 2006, 12:02:26 pm »

nothing to with that mate,that is the yoke/scan coils-look at my last reply again,you have some sort of smoothing cap fault-i see it all the time

scottyfryer · « **Reply #25 on:** August 02, 2006, 11:14:27 pm »

So that missing resister does nothing then and I do not need to put one in?

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #26 on:** August 03, 2006, 09:29:46 am »

Is that a Hantarex Polo 33" monitor?

And it does look like a capacitor problem.... I'd do a cap kit on it just to know that it was done recently.

scottyfryer · « **Reply #27 on:** August 03, 2006, 09:43:41 am »

Pics i have of the board if that helps

grantspain · « **Reply #28 on:** August 03, 2006, 03:29:51 pm »

not seen that chassis before but judging by the plugs and pots it looks like a kortek,the earlier kortek's definetly had an issue with caps(all i can remember is that the cap was next to the flyback)

scottyfryer · « **Reply #29 on:** August 04, 2006, 08:10:50 pm »

I'm sure my monitor is KT-EGA33 - Sharp Image. http://www.zax.com.au/spare_parts/monitor-chassis.html

grantspain · « **Reply #30 on:** August 05, 2006, 06:46:14 pm »

looks like your right,but still a smoothing cap fault

scottyfryer · « **Reply #31 on:** August 07, 2006, 08:14:21 pm »

I can't find the schematics for this model, only up to the 27 inch. This thing is becoming more of a pain then its worth.

grantspain · « **Reply #32 on:** August 08, 2006, 12:38:25 pm »

best to see if you can purchase a complete cap kit and change the lot to be honest

scottyfryer · « **Reply #33 on:** August 14, 2006, 03:12:48 pm »

I sent an email to Bob Roberts about the cap kit. Does anyone know anywhere else to get them?

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #34 on:** August 14, 2006, 06:11:00 pm »

Zanen.... but you actually have to "call" them down in Texas. (US)
I believe they have an 888 toll free number.
I didn't see your particular model listed, but they might have some insight on it or put one together. (?)

http://randyfromm.com/amusements/yellowpages/zanen/

scottyfryer · « **Reply #35 on:** August 22, 2006, 10:50:55 am »

Called Zanen last week and he said he wasn't sure about it and would call me back the next day. a week later and no call.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #36 on:** August 22, 2006, 12:02:43 pm »

Call Zanen back. They are usually pretty good.

scottyfryer · « **Reply #37 on:** August 22, 2006, 01:39:05 pm »

I found one of your old posts ken telling someone to contact joey [jomac@vtgts.com] and he told me:

Hi Scott ,

Sharp Image have closed down ,

Being a professional monitor repair business we don't sell or support so called " cap kits " we leave this urban myth to the cowboys in the US where the term was invented.
We can 100% repair this chassis for you without a doubt , but prefer to get them before they have been destroyed by these unnecessary cap kits.

Sorry to go on about this subject but could you imagine going to your mechanic and asking for a spark plug kit hoping it will fix the noise you have in the rear end of the car.

But if it is like all the other ega models that sharp image made replace C904 , 33uf 250 v , will be near the flyback
They made hundreds of different variations of all their models , most of the models have this cap in the screen control section that is a common failure.

Regards,
Joe

grantspain · « **Reply #38 on:** August 22, 2006, 02:41:53 pm »

sounds perfectly feasible that the cap mentioned is the ht smoothing cap-this would give that exact problem,change it

scottyfryer · « **Reply #39 on:** August 23, 2006, 09:45:05 am »

I'm going to Hit Active Surplus today in Downtown toronto that carries everything under the sun for electronics. Thanks everyone for the help. I'll keep you posted.


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