Applying CPO in a tricky manner

[dema]

I received my CPO from Mamemarquees and the work turned out SWEET!!! Scott really does amazing work! However, I do not and I already found a problem with my application.

I've made a rotating control panel in the Rebirth style (Superman logo as opposed to the 1-Up Pac-Mamea rotating panel), and I planned to go without plexi on the surface, which is making applying the artwork a little difficult. I had planned on applying the artwork by wrapping it around the top panels and tucking it back underneath, but the adhesive on the back of the CPO isn't sticking well around at the edges, so it's bubbling around the surface perimeter and also where the corners bend 90 and 130 degrees. Unfortunately I can't apply T-Molding because the triangle and control panels fit just perfectly right now, so that removes the possibility of just tucking it in beneath the molding.

If I had planned for plexi everything would have been fine, but since I didn't I'd have to use 1/16" lexan and attach it in a couple other locations as well, and I don't know if that's a wise decision.

What do you guys suggest I do? Should I try again to get the cpo wrapped tighter around the control panel surface? Or should I go with the thinnest lexan possible for the surface, and then not worry about wrapping it around the edges? I used 3M 90 adhesive spray as well, so I'm not looking forward to sanding that off the surface when I get home.

[mahuti]

If the art wraps all the way around to the back of the CP, then just staple it where you can't see it. That will hold the art in place until the glue dries. That's how I do it.

[dema]

If the art wraps all the way around to the back of the CP, then just staple it where you can't see it. That will hold the art in place until the glue dries. That's how I do it.

The staples are a good idea. I just used some screws and washers I had lying around to secure it into place. Would stapling the back side be enough to eliminate the bubbling around the edges? Do you use glue in addition to the adhesive backing?

[mahuti]

I didn't even use the adhesive that came with the overlay. I went ahead and sprayed spray adhesive on the board, and lightly on the cpo.

Then I applied it using a big flat "scraper" tool used for applying stuff like this (happened to have one laying around) A spoon works well too. Then I used a staple every inch or so. My stuff looks like it has always been there. No problems on the edges.

I had to fold over the edges on the corners, but it looks really good. Check my cab in my sig.

[dema]

I see what you did on your site. It looks really good. I'll try the staple route and if that doesn't work as well as I'd like then I'll just add a really thin layer of lexan over the surface.

On a side note, since you're not using plexi on the cp either, how did you cut the trackball hole and keep the cpo from coming up at the edges? Mine won't stay down in that area. Do you need to cut the trackball hole smaller in the cpo and then fold the rest of the material back under the trackball plate and then install the trackball?

[mahuti]

I installed, and let the glue cure for a couple of days. That's pretty key. It takes days for adhesive to really get solid.

Once it had sat there for a few days, I cut the circle out with a new blade my exacto. Also key. New blade every time you do a new CPO. If you feel like you nicked some metal, concrete or a screw... put a new blade on. They're cheap, and they need to be absolutely razor sharp to get a great cut. Also, it's better to make several light cuts than 1 deep cut. Using lots of pressure is a good way to miss and overshoot the cut, especially when doing a circle. Using 1 light cut to begin breaking the fibers apart on the CPO, and then successive light cuts to finish it up is the best way on the cutting. Generally where perfection matters, I may make a series of about 5-15 light, light cuts, rather than 1 through and through. Helps keep the xacto sharper too. Plus if you over shoot once, it's easy to correct on successive cuts.

Back to application...

I also generally heat up the CP with a hair dryer or heat gun during application. It makes it more supple, bend easier around corners and makes it more agreeable to laying down. I usually staple one side, heat it up a bit, then stretch it and apply it, make a few staples on teh other side in the corners and middle, then go back and fill in with staples. If there are any small bubbles, I press them out with a tool or a spoon.

When I was a design student, my teachers were absolute fiends for precision... they used to grade us on our projects AND our mattes, project covers and overlays, stuff like that. These methods are pretty tried and true for producing perfect cuts and glues.

[mahuti]

Oh and you don't want to heat it up very much, or stretch it much either. Just enough to get it nice and flat.

I think the thing that keeps mine really flat & smooth is using patience when applying. Using enough glue to make it sticky, but not enough to let it slide around, or let the glue stay wet for a long time. The staples will keep it down long enough for the glue to cure. A light dusting of glue/adhesive will be enough to keep the thing locked solid once it dries. It doesn't take much.

[dema]

Thanks for the tips! I got one down, and I'm hoping everything will dry well. Unfortunately I was in the garage after work and didn't check out the suggestions beforehand, so I didn't get a chance to try the hair dryer method. I'll do that with the other two panels. It's so much work to get it right, that I'm starting to think I should go with Lexan and call it a day, but I'm not thrilled with how it'll fit with the rest of the spinning control panel area, which is already set and screwed into place. So hopefully my results will work out well.

Thanks again for the help. I really appreciate it and I'm going to take the steps you suggested.