Author Topic: Mameroom now prints oversized artwork. (Read 7167 times)

VMJ Team · « **on:** December 31, 2002, 08:50:42 am »

The Mameroom (www.mameroom.com) now offers oversized printing...CHEAP. Full color prints (300DPI) up to 36" wide. The quality is about the same as the marquees I had printed at Kinkos. I will be doing some price configuration, but I already know that I will be able to print at almost half of what the other guys are charging. I could print regular size marquees for around $5, but with shipping and packaging (mailing tubes) the final cost would be around $8 per marquee (still cheaper than other places). I am also considering offering full-sized side art around $100-$150 for BOTH sides.

Also, anyone requiring full-sized cutout templates for their favorite cabinet design...please visit the www.mameroom.com for information.

Here are a few links to a sample marquee:

http://www.cybertechdesign.net/mameroom/newspics/P1010846.jpg

http://www.cybertechdesign.net/mameroom/newspics/P1010847.jpg

http://www.cybertechdesign.net/mameroom/newspics/P1010848.jpg

Brad Lee · « **Reply #1 on:** December 31, 2002, 09:08:40 am »

I know on your page it says to email for details, but how bout a quickie info on what's needed?

What format of graphics is best for you, jpg, png, mp, psd?
What material is used, backlight film, vinyl, etc?

Sounds great though!

VMJ Team · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2002, 09:16:17 am »

I can use any format graphics file...I can also use any material, but would have to adjust price accordingly...right now, I am using standard bond type paper. For high-gloss, transparency, vinyl, etc... I will post pricing on the ww.mameroom.com website and probably drop a plug here in the boards.

TazMan · « **Reply #3 on:** December 31, 2002, 10:05:49 am »

Did Santa bring CyberPunk a wide-format / plotter printer for Christmas?

If so, what kind did you get?

VMJ Team · « **Reply #4 on:** December 31, 2002, 10:15:28 am »

Santa? Did I miss Christmas again? (I've been working so hard I completely forgot) I needed a last minute tax right off for this year...I didn't want to go too big if it wasn't going to work out, so I started out with an HP DesignJet 350c.

VMJ Team · « **Reply #5 on:** December 31, 2002, 10:20:01 am »

Forgot to mention. I'm giving away the marquee I printed to test my plotter. I've also put the "News" section back into my website. The details about the give away are in the news section.

I also plan to have monthly giveaways, maybe even a grand prize...full sized side art.

Check it out!
www.mameroom.com

Lilwolf · « **Reply #6 on:** December 31, 2002, 01:44:26 pm »

I might be interested. I need at some point some gauntlet sideart and I might do some artwork for a cocktail table.

but not for a few months at least

Silverwind · « **Reply #7 on:** December 31, 2002, 02:24:46 pm »

Quote from: CyberPunk on December 31, 2002, 10:20:01 am

Forgot to mention. I'm giving away the marquee I printed to test my plotter. I've also put the "News" section back into my website. The details about the give away are in the news section.

I also plan to have monthly giveaways, maybe even a grand prize...full sized side art.

Check it out!
www.mameroom.com

what do you need to do in order to join the monthly giveaway?

VMJ Team · « **Reply #8 on:** December 31, 2002, 03:12:42 pm »

Just send me an email with your name so I can put you in the drawing.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #9 on:** December 31, 2002, 03:15:05 pm »

how much are you selling for?..like per sq feet and such?
If cheaper then kinkos and quility wise then i might need some more as i am planing more joystick...muhah hahah haha..even more..

VMJ Team · « **Reply #10 on:** December 31, 2002, 03:26:26 pm »

I haven't really worked out a square footage rate as of yet. I plan on putting together a comprehensive price list based on type of plot (solid color, black outlined, etc...) and type of media (bond paper, vellum, vinyl, glossy, etc...) But for now, marquees printed on plain bond paper are $5...that's about 1/2 of what kinkos charges and base on my experience, the quality is about the same 300DPI. Newer equipment, of course, prints upwards of 1200 DPI or something like that, but for the price, the quality is pretty damn good. Oh, I'm adding 3 bucks to printing orders for shipping and packaging (mailing tubes)...so $8 total...stil cheaper than kinkos. Until I work out detailed sq foot rates....I'll print full sized side art for $100-$150 depending on how big...that's for BOTH sides.

Howard_Casto · « **Reply #11 on:** January 01, 2003, 12:41:00 am »

Let me know when you have prices ready. I need an odd-shaped cpo printed soon.

Brax · « **Reply #12 on:** January 01, 2003, 12:03:28 pm »

Would you ship to Canada?

D_Harris · « **Reply #13 on:** January 01, 2003, 12:06:05 pm »

How much for small samples(for comparison purposes) on standard bond type, high-gloss, transparency, vinyl, vellum etc.?

***And does anyone who has done these printing projects before know if there is a set DPI where anything higher would not equate to a *visible* difference in artwork quality?

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Searcher7@mail.con2.com

RandyT · « **Reply #14 on:** January 01, 2003, 12:40:30 pm »

Quote from: D_Harris on January 01, 2003, 12:06:05 pm

***And does anyone who has done these printing projects before know if there is a set DPI where anything higher would not equate to a *visible* difference in artwork quality?

I have an ENCAD 300dpi 36" printer so I am familiar with this (I'll also be offering arcade machine related printing services soon

)

The quality of the output on machines with resolutions over 300dpi is going to be dependant on a couple of things.

The first is obviously the resolution of the original image. If the original is native 600dpi (or better) then it will generally (see the next condition) look nicer on 600dpi printers than 300dpi printers. The major problem with this is that the source files for large prints are huge. Not something that can be sent easily over the net.

The second factor is the quality of the RIP (Raster Image Processor). This can be either hardware or software and is the thing responsible for scaling your image to the printers native resolution. It also controls conversion of RGB colors to the particular printers color gamut (range of possible colors) as there are some RGB colors that cannot be accurately reproduced in CMYK. In general, the generic Windows drivers for large format printers don't do as good a job as a dedicated RIP, be it software or hardware.

So the short answer to your question is: With a good RIP, good source material, and a knowledgable printer operator, 300dpi is probably adequate for CP overlays, Marquees etc. We're not talking about fine art reproduction here

.

RandyT

VMJ Team · « **Reply #15 on:** January 01, 2003, 01:20:18 pm »

To answer some questions above: I will ship outside the US...and I have ordered various media and will be printing samples on different media. The samples will be sent out at no cost. I'm still working on the pricing, but as a general price guide...I plan on working at 1/2 the cost of other places like Kinkos.

D_Harris · « **Reply #16 on:** January 02, 2003, 02:02:58 am »

Quote from: RandyT on January 01, 2003, 12:40:30 pm

Quote from: D_Harris on January 01, 2003, 12:06:05 pm

***And does anyone who has done these printing projects before know if there is a set DPI where anything higher would not equate to a *visible* difference in artwork quality?

I have an ENCAD 300dpi 36" printer so I am familiar with this (I'll also be offering arcade machine related printing services soon )

The quality of the output on machines with resolutions over 300dpi is going to be dependant on a couple of things.

The first is obviously the resolution of the original image. If the original is native 600dpi (or better) then it will generally (see the next condition) look nicer on 600dpi printers than 300dpi printers. The major problem with this is that the source files for large prints are huge. Not something that can be sent easily over the net.

The second factor is the quality of the RIP (Raster Image Processor). This can be either hardware or software and is the thing responsible for scaling your image to the printers native resolution. It also controls conversion of RGB colors to the particular printers color gamut (range of possible colors) as there are some RGB colors that cannot be accurately reproduced in CMYK. In general, the generic Windows drivers for large format printers don't do as good a job as a dedicated RIP, be it software or hardware.

So the short answer to your question is: With a good RIP, good source material, and a knowledgable printer operator, 300dpi is probably adequate for CP overlays, Marquees etc. We're not talking about fine art reproduction here .

RandyT

Thanks,

My aim is to print out custom sideart, so the color accuracy will not be that big a factor since there will be nothing to compare the artwork to, and as long as the colors are close to the way I envision them, then there will not be a problem.(But all prints after the initial one would of course have to be the same) .

Anyway, would an Epson Stylus Pro 7000, 7500, or 7600 be a recommended printer for this kind of work, or would it be overkill?

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Searcher7@mail.con2.com

VMJ Team · « **Reply #17 on:** January 02, 2003, 09:45:05 am »

Ok. I receive my shipment of 18 lb Inkjet Translucent Paper tomorrow. After calculating costs for paper and ink...the introductory rates for oversized printing are as follows:

Color or B&W graphics: $6.00 per sq/ft
CAD prints (cutout templates): $.30 per sq/ft

These prices are for printing on 20 lb. Inkjet Bond or 18 lb Inkjet Translucent paper.

$5.00 minumum + $2.00 (handling) + Shipping Costs

www.mameroom.com

Brad Lee · « **Reply #18 on:** January 02, 2003, 10:15:45 am »

Inkjet Translucent Paper.. Is that really paper, or is it more like a plastic film? How does it look when backlit by a flourescent? If black is printed on it, does it stay translucent or is it more opaque?

From your test prints, how does it look on large patches of black? Ours is a cheap one(just an old tired deskjet) but whenever its got large areas of solid color it stays wet for a long time and gets kinda droopy, like wet paper

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #19 on:** January 02, 2003, 04:27:08 pm »

Quote from: CyberPunk on January 02, 2003, 09:45:05 am

Color or B&W graphics: $6.00 per sq/ft
CAD prints (cutout templates): $.30 per sq/ft

These prices are for printing on 20 lb. Inkjet Bond or 18 lb Inkjet Translucent paper.

$5.00 minumum + $2.00 (handling) + Shipping Costs

www.mameroom.com

My local kinkos charges $7 sq/ft($4sq/ft on vinyl and $6 sq/ft on heavy weight matt paper) for translucent papers and werent you gonna make it half that($3.50 sq/ft i assume).
Not that i need any thing at the moment but.....you never know...hehe...i am thinking(really thinking) about another cab that look similer to your ultimate cabinet 2

.

VMJ Team · « **Reply #20 on:** January 02, 2003, 05:06:21 pm »

My local Kinkos charges $8.00 per sq foot for color and $.45 for Cad plots...as far as 1/2 price compared to kinko's...I guess I was refering to getting a marquee printed at 1/2 the price. I'm charging a flat rate of $5 for a standard marquee...all of the marquees I've printed at kinkos ran more than $11. Anyways, if someone receives a written quote for printing, I'll do my best to beat it.

Howard_Casto · « **Reply #21 on:** January 03, 2003, 03:23:10 am »

Oh so you will be doing templates too? What grade of material would you be printing it to by default? I have a cab made out of plywood and I might be cool to have old-school painted on graphics for it.

VMJ Team · « **Reply #22 on:** January 03, 2003, 08:32:09 am »

By default, the templates will be printed on 20 lb Inkjet Bond paper...unless someone wants a template printed on different paper....then I can work something out. BTW, I receive my shipment of different paper stock today and will be filling some orders for marquees....I'll have proper feedback on the quality of the translucent paper.

Brax · « **Reply #23 on:** January 03, 2003, 08:51:07 am »

Translucent paper?

Velum?

VMJ Team · « **Reply #24 on:** January 03, 2003, 08:54:21 am »

That's what I'm waiting to see what kind of paper it is. When ordering, it wasn't under Vellum, it was under InkJet paper...so I too am curious as to what it is exactly....we will find out soon enough.

VMJ Team · « **Reply #25 on:** January 06, 2003, 02:54:31 pm »

First set of test prints done. I have found that regular bond paper works great for marquees. The 300DPI graphics are not anything like color laser quality, but good enough for a backlit marquee. I've already printed a bezel and I was happy with the results.

Birdtales · « **Reply #26 on:** January 06, 2003, 05:18:18 pm »

Quote from: CyberPunk on January 06, 2003, 02:54:31 pm

I've already printed a bezel and I was happy with the results.

And I can't wait to see it.

I'll post feedback when it gets here.

Searcher7 · « **Reply #27 on:** January 07, 2003, 02:17:48 pm »

Quote from: CyberPunk on January 06, 2003, 02:54:31 pm

First set of test prints done. I have found that regular bond paper works great for marquees. The 300DPI graphics are not anything like color laser quality, but good enough for a backlit marquee. I've already printed a bezel and I was happy with the results.

When you say that "that regular bond paper works great for marquees", what did you apply it to, and what was it's thickness?

I also though "laser quality" wasn't any good.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Searcher7@mail.con2.com

rampy · « **Reply #28 on:** January 07, 2003, 02:39:04 pm »

just out of curiousity... how vibrant are the colors? The plotter is CMYK right?

I just did a plot with an ancient 650c on regular paper of my marquee and it came out kinda dark/bland but ok/mediocre/moderatly crappy...

*shrug* I'm sure your stuff is gonna come out better with a modern plotter - and I'm hoping your printing operation does well servicing the Mame cab community... but just wanted to share my almost related experience (I won't even get into how many hoops I had to jump trough to get an old 2552a jetserver card to upgrade it's firmware to be even usable ...)

good luck, would like to hear the results/pics... and any plotting tips you might have =P

rampy

VMJ Team · « **Reply #29 on:** January 07, 2003, 03:05:46 pm »

Well, I've printed a dark marquee on regular bond paper for someone and I wasn't exactly thrilled about the results, but as you mentioned...it's OK, but nothing spectacular (kinda bland). I've also printed a couple of lighter marquees with better success. At 300DPI, colors/images to not fade together well. So if you have a dark background with an image that is trying to blend (or fade) into the background, it doesn't do so well when you put a light behind it. You notice where the colors are trying to "blend". If you have sharp images or images with a definate edge...it prints better than expected (comparable with Kinkos). Thanks to John B. (who donated some glossy paper stock), the same dull prints on regular bond paper look respectable. I'm still waiting for the transulent paper (not vellum) to arrive, hopefully today so I can run some test prints.

VMJ Team · « **Reply #30 on:** January 08, 2003, 08:57:54 am »

OK, got the "translucent" paper and printed another test marquee. The paper is a cross between bond and vellum. It works great for backlit graphics, such as marquees. It also provides a "glossy" finish compared to regular bond paper. I'd recommend this paper over bond for printing marquees.

rampy · « **Reply #31 on:** January 08, 2003, 10:36:15 am »

Quote from: CyberPunk on January 08, 2003, 08:57:54 am

OK, got the "translucent" paper and printed another test marquee. The paper is a cross between bond and vellum. It works great for backlit graphics, such as marquees. It also provides a "glossy" finish compared to regular bond paper. I'd recommend this paper over bond for printing marquees.

Glad to hear it... of course we'd like to see pics of the translucent marquee...

FWIW I ended up doubling up my regular paper marquee in order to make it seems "solid" enough when backlit... it looks pretty good lit, but I bet your translucent stuff looks great...

do you print on the "top" of the translucent stuff... or print on the back with a mirror/reverse image (hopefully you know what i mean)

rampy

VMJ Team · « **Reply #32 on:** January 08, 2003, 10:40:53 am »

The marquee printed on the translucent stuff also looks better with a blank sheet behind it. The paper really lets the light through! I wouldn't suggest printing on the reverse side, the paper has a "texture" to it that would be apparent if printed this way. I did try to take pictures of the marquee, but my digital camera couldn't really differentiate the difference between the marquee printed on regular bond paper. You really need to see it yourself, to really see the difference.

Searcher7 · « **Reply #33 on:** January 08, 2003, 01:28:05 pm »

I guess the big question for me is if when compared to OEM artwork(for side-art, CP, and marquees), does any of these methods cause one to say to oneself that this is a "reproduction" or "someone's personal project" or does it look like it came off the assembly line with the game.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Searcher7@mail.con2.com

VMJ Team · « **Reply #34 on:** January 08, 2003, 01:33:40 pm »

I'd have to honestly say, that if you were standing 10-15 feet away, you would have a difficult time telling the difference, but up close...at 300DPI, you'd be able to notice that it was printed on an inkjet printer. For the quality you are suggesting, you need to use something like a xerox Phaser 790 or higher. It's basically a color laser printer...they run around $8,000 (give or take).

Searcher7 · « **Reply #35 on:** January 08, 2003, 01:45:19 pm »

Quote from: CyberPunk on January 08, 2003, 01:33:40 pm

I'd have to honestly say, that if you were standing 10-15 feet away, you would have a difficult time telling the difference, but up close...at 300DPI, you'd be able to notice that it was printed on an inkjet printer. For the quality you are suggesting, you need to use something like a xerox Phaser 790 or higher. It's basically a color laser printer...they run around $8,000 (give or take).

I didn't know that color laser printers produced that kind of quality. I thought that in order to get the normal quality, artwork would have to be screen printed on lexan and vinyl, the way the manufacturers have always done it.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Searcher7@mail.con2.com

VMJ Team · « **Reply #36 on:** January 08, 2003, 01:49:20 pm »

Other than silk screening, the Phaser 790 is the printer that I know of personally that can produce the highest quality prints.

Searcher7 · « **Reply #37 on:** January 11, 2003, 11:46:07 pm »

So I'm assuming that the reason you didn't go with a screen printer instead of a plotter is because of the cost. Correct?

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Searcher7@mail.con2.com

Birdtales · « **Reply #38 on:** January 13, 2003, 06:17:32 pm »

I received my monitor bezel today from Mameroom.com. The quality is very good. I wasn't expecting laser quality or Silk Screen quality (I didn't pay for that kind of quality.) I had it printed on 20lb bond.

Sorry about the crappy pics I'll get better ones for my website when I'm ready to post this project.

Here is the bottom right next to the control panel.

Full view of Bezel

Full view front of cab.

This graphic is 27"X27" printed at 300dpi. I paid 35.38 shipped. If I were to complain about anything it is that a graphic of this size with a cutout in the middle on 20lb Bond is very fragile. I caught it on a joystick and tore it. I was able to tape it from the back and it is hardly seen.

I also printed graphics in the center of the bezel area. I have sprayed them with a clear satin urethane and will see how they come out and get back here once they are dry.

So to sum up my transaction with Mameroom...

1. Even if the cost is a bit higher a heavier paper would be a nice upgrade.

2. I received my graphic quick (right at a week turnaround).

3. The staff was friendly and returned my emails within one business day (most times within an hour or so).

4. The quality won't knock your socks off but I believe it is very good for the price.

I would do this again but would ask for thicker paper if available.

Brax · « **Reply #39 on:** January 13, 2003, 07:01:19 pm »

Was that the free cabinet from Ohio? If so, man it turned out nice!

Btw, how did you turn the bezel from silver to gold?

Birdtales · « **Reply #40 on:** January 13, 2003, 07:09:48 pm »

Quote from: Brax on January 13, 2003, 07:01:19 pm

Was that the free cabinet from Ohio? If so, man it turned out nice!

Yep it's the one. Thank you!!! I'll post it up in a few days in the new project section with better pics. Amazing what a bit of artwork does for it .

Before

After

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #41 on:** January 13, 2003, 07:33:44 pm »

woooo...hoo..ho..almost missed that one.

very cool looking

.

looks totally new now..hehe..

Wasnt this the free cab..ok..err..$200 cab you got couple of days ago.it was pretty ugly and now looks great(somehow looks very clean and all)..quick question,thats laminate on the sides right?
orange laminate?

Birdtales · « **Reply #42 on:** January 13, 2003, 07:39:23 pm »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on January 13, 2003, 07:33:44 pm

$200 cab you got couple of days ago.it was pretty ugly and now looks great(somehow looks very clean and all)..quick question,thats laminate on the sides right?
orange laminate?

Thank you, actually got it on Dec 2nd. It's Hunter Green and Bright Yellow paint. I'll get better pics and start a thread in Project Announcements in a day or so (No John Deer jokes on the color

)


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