Playchoice 10 - Help Needed

[Fusion Disaster]

I just picked up a new addition to my game room. I believe the cabinet is a Nintendo Vs. Dual System originally build with RBI Baseball. Should be this cabinet. However the left hand side has been converted into a player choice 10 cabinet, and the right had side I think is still RBI.

I'm having troubles with the monitors in the cabinet. The left hand side monitor (player choice 10) appeals to have a vertical hold issue as I can see the display rolling up the screen. And the left had side is completely black. Doesn't appear to be getting any power at all. The guy I got them from said he wasn't sure what the deal with them is (he also knows ZERO about arcades & cabinets). He did say that the distributor he originally bought it from said it worked 100% before it was shipped. So either something happened to damage it all before shipping, a fuse is blown, or something isn't hooked up right. Any ideas? Let's assume the monitors work, what do you think could be the issue?

Anyone out there have this cabinet? Or a playchoice 10 cabinet? Can you send me some pics of what lines should be connected to each monitor?

Any other doco, links, info on this cabinet anyone can provide me with would be awesome. I haven't been able to track down too much info on this thing.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Brian.

[Fusion Disaster]

Anyone know how to hook one of these machines up to a TV for testing purposes?

[MonitorGuru]

Search online for "Playchoice-10" information (it's Playchoice BTW, not Player Choice) and also "Nintendo Vs.".

These should typically use Nintendo Sanyo monitors. 

Most all video games cannot be (easily) connected to a TV for testing as they use separate RGB+Sync connections.  In addition, Nintendo's are worse in that they use inverse video instead of normal. This means that +5 volts on the RGB wires = BLACK screen instead of White screen. Therefore connecting this to a normal arcade monitor will result in negative colors.

Also, Nintendo monitors require 100 volt power NOT 115/120 volts, through the use of a special isolation transformer, as these are Japanese monitors made to work in the US at the higher voltage rate.  In fact, they "plug" into a strip on the transfomer board, but do NOT be tempted to plug it into any other outlet in your house as it will destroy the monitor (and likely your game board) instantly.

Back to your question: Nintendo monitors typicaly need cap kits (replace all the electrolytic capacitor "cans" on the monitor circuit board) to alievate strange video issues.  These are available for $5 or $7 for the deluxe kit from www.TheRealBobRoberts.com

Do you see any glow in the neck on the other monitor when it's turned on?  It's possible the plug in the bottom of the cabinet simply fell out during shipping.

[StephenH]

Here are the pinouts to the Playchoice-10 board, if that helps:

http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze3b3qa/pc10/videog.htm

[Ken Layton]

If you have a dual system cabinet and one side is converted to Playchoice while the other side still has it's original board then there is a problem. The problem is that both monitors are mounted so close to each other that the yokes 'beat' together at different frequencies (although ever so slight) to cause a roll bar in the picture do to the differences in sync frequency between the two different boards. This was never a problem in the original games' dual system configuration since both games were originally run from one single main board so the both monitors received the same exact sync frequencies.

We can't stress enough that these cabinets use either the Nintendo Sanyo "EZ20" or Nintendo Sharp XM2001 monitors. Both of these run on 100 volts ac power and come from the factory with a regular two prong power plug on the power cord. Don't be tempted to simply plug the monitor into an ordinary wall outlet. You will indeed destroy the monitor and gameboard IMMEDIATELYupon power up! These monitors must be run off of the cabinets' monitor power outlet inside the cabinet.

This game cabinet is old enough to now need to have the power supplies that run the gameboards rebuilt and recapped.

[Fusion Disaster]

The RBI Baseball monitor on the right hand side is completely black. Not sure if it's powering on at all.

The Playchoice - 10 monitor on the left is getting power and displays a bunch of static that appears to the tracking from bottom to top.

There is also a loud ticking noise coming from the back of the playchoice 10 monitor, likely fixable with that humming write up on Bob Roberts site right?

Cap kit huh? Are those hard to install? I'm guessing I have to remove the board from each monitor and desolder the old & resolder the new? How hard is that to do for someone without a ton of soldering experience? Or is this something that I can take to someone local?

I won't be plugging in the monitors seperate. Thanks for the info. They are both plugged into a power supply looking box at the bottom of the cabinet, and from there there is a 3 prong power cord that goes to the wall. I figured there was some kind of step down or something occuring in that box.

So you guys think that there is likely a confliction between the monitors now that it's running two different games? So should I convert it back or just plan to scrap the RBI baseball side? Is there any way to fix this confliction? Is there any way to get around this by utilizing a PC or TV's or something? Or could I unplug the RBI side monitor power cord to test out the playchoice side? I'm so very new to real arcades, only have experience with my home build mame cabinet.

Thanks a million for your help on this.

[Crazy Cooter]

The problem is that both monitors are mounted so close to each other that the yokes 'beat' together at different frequencies (although ever so slight) to cause a roll bar in the picture do to the differences in sync frequency between the two different boards.

Is there anyway to shield this from happening?


--- edit ---
I posted this question in the monitor forum:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=41659.0

[MaximRecoil]

We can't stress enough that these cabinets use either the Nintendo Sanyo "EZ20" or Nintendo Sharp XM2001 monitors.

What about these Sharp XM2001 monitors that you mentioned? Are they interchangeable with the Sanyo's, like say for "Punch-Out!!" or "Super Punch-Out!!"? If so, are there any advantages to using them in place of the Sanyo's, such as maybe cost, availability, ease of repair, etc.?