Author Topic: English Mark Darts - Super 6? Any Info Please... (Read 57820 times)

JLR2000 · « **on:** June 13, 2005, 05:35:45 pm »

I'm looking at picking up an electronic dart board and I was wondering what the going price was and if they are difficult to fix or service yourself. What I may be picking up may not be working and/or in pieces.....what would be a fair amount to offer for a non-working or non-running English Mark Darts Super 6? I want to be fair but I don't want to be taken either. Sorry for the dumb questions, I've never dealt with this before and my hope is to get a running (maybe in pieces) dart board or one that needs basic wiring repair. Thanks in advance for any information.

paigeoliver · « **Reply #1 on:** June 13, 2005, 08:09:37 pm »

I owned that exact model, purchased at an auction for $25.

Brunnen-G · « **Reply #2 on:** June 13, 2005, 09:51:05 pm »

I picked up two Super Six Plus II models from a local operator for $50 each, non-working. Turned out both had a bad RAM that cost about $2. Got both working, sold one on eBay for $300ish, then found a Galaxy machine for $250 and sold the other one on eBay.

Turned out that I ended up $250 ahead with a better dart machine than I started with.

If you get one, make sure to get one that's updated with the thin spider. Keep an eye on eBay for complete segment kits. Betson sells all the replacement parts, but they can be *incredibly* expensive.

If you can find a working Galaxy in good shape for less than $500 or so, jump on it. For a Super Six, maybe $150 or less working. Even if you get a non working model, the circuit is incredibly simple, and spare parts show up on eBay all the time.

If you get one that needs work, feel free to PM me and I'll help you out if I can.

JLR2000 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 13, 2005, 11:00:39 pm »

ok, picked up a Super 6 Plus II, working in really good (IMO) condition. Everything seems to work on it, all lights, sounds, the dartboard seems to respond to every area (tested with finger flick), plus keys and a series 6000 manual. Everything for under $150 (which I am very happy about). Thanks for the responses! Can anyone point me to any info on the web re: manuals, what the "plus II" is or anything? Does this model have a "free play" mode or do I have to wire up a button to the coin door? Thanks again....

Ken Layton · « **Reply #4 on:** June 14, 2005, 01:05:56 am »

Here's the link to the manufacturer's site with manuals and technical bulletins:

www.arachnidinc.com/support.php

Click on "Archive". Once there check out "Archive Contents" -> "6000 series" and "Tech Tips".

Here is the latest link to Super 6 manuals:

http://www.leagueleader.net/bullshooter/support-3/legacy-products-2/6000-series-dartboards

The longtime game operator I used to work for had over 100 of these machines on the route. Super 6's are collectivelly known as the 6000 series.

Model 6000 is the Super Six (earliest model) Identified by the fact it did NOT have the Coin/credit circuit board (little board with 3 banks of dip switches). The main gameboard did NOT have the 4 postion dip switch on it. The cabinet graphics on the front were mostly black with yellow highlights. Manufactured from 1986 to 1988.

Model 6100 is the Super Six Plus (intermediate model) First appearance of the little coin credit circuit board. The main gameboard now has a dip switch on it. Cabinet graphics still mostly black. Manufactured in 1988.

Models 6200 & 6300 are the Super Six Plus II (last model). Cabinet graphics are now mostly yellow with black highlights. Manufactured in 1989.

All the lighted pushbutton switches use #658 (12 volt) wedge base lamps. Don't use any other number of lamp as the lamp driver circuitry will be damaged. The "throw darts" and "remove darts" lights are #2182D lamps with the wire leads.

The most common problems with this series dart machines are the power supply assembly which loves to eat bridge rectifiers and the target head assembly which will cause the game to lock up if if stuck tips hold any switch stuck "on" (closed ).

Later, the "Super Spider" target head was introduced which used a thin "spider" and larger segments. The switch matrix is different for the Super Spider and this requires a different target interface board # 32579 in order to score properly. The switch matrix for the Super Spider has one single ribbon cable whereas the original old style target head switch matrix has three ribbon cables.

There are changes to the gameboard in order to use the Super spider head. it is shown in a service bulletin Arachnid issued.

JLR2000 · « **Reply #5 on:** June 14, 2005, 01:43:26 am »

Wow, thanks for all the info Ken. It is much appreciated. That answers a lot of my questions. Thanks for the tips re: the lights, they all currently work but it's good to know, as well as the no free play mode. Everything seems to work, but about 20 minutes ago I flipped it on and got the "bullseye" noise every other second and the screen had some garbled letters, if I hit reset I could get the noise to stop until I tried to enter a coin, then it would start again. Got worried that my working game had some latent problems that were now surfacing. I shut it down and restarted it and it seems to have cleared up. Not sure what that was, but I hope it doesn't lead to anything permanent. Last I tried everything looked and responded perfectly. Oh well, thanks again for filling in the gaps for me!

paigeoliver · « **Reply #6 on:** June 14, 2005, 02:28:08 am »

Also, the board in those things has an RCA video out port on it, you can put a TV on top of one just like Dragon's Lair!!! I had a TV sitting on a flat topped video cab next to mine, much easier to read the score that way.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #7 on:** June 14, 2005, 10:04:40 am »

Not every main gameboard had the RCA composite NTSC video output jack installed. Sure the solder pads are there for it, but some lazy person at the factory just didn't feel like putting the RCA jacks on one day. This gameboard only outputs black & white graphics, but it does look better on a bigger tv set though.

There's a battery backed Dallas ram chip on the gameboard that's old enough now to be losing memory due to the internal battery dying.

Read your later 6000 series manual about the "Spider Writer" attract mode text stuff about clearing the garbage and random characters out of the memory. You can even use that feature to write "Welcome to Joe's house now put money in this machine" or whatever you'd like it to say during attract mode!

JLR2000 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 14, 2005, 08:04:53 pm »

I checked and it looks like I do have the video out on the game board...not sure I would use this but it's nice to know. Had the game plugged in for about 30 mins and the problem surfaced again. The sound was the same as when you throw a dart in the board without any quarters in it (but it plays continually). Started to think about this and I'm guessing that some of the broken tips may be somehow registering....not sure why it's not a "all the time" sort of thing, but I removed the easy to grab tips out and I'm thinking about removing the back to remove the few jammed, hard to pull tips out. Who knows what else is between the board and the sensor? I also played a minute with the spider writer, confirmed I can add text...(didn't plan anything out but the junk I put out stayed, I"ll have to read up on how to clear the screen to put my own text in. If anyone has removed the back to remove broken dart tips I'd appreciate any advice....I'm a little nervous to do this but I'll read whatever manuals I can find to do it. Thanks.

UPDATE: Well, I didn't remove the dart board "spider" but loosening the wing nuts on the back made the problem go away. I removed the broken tips from the front and will wait to take the back off all the way until I read more up on the subject. Just want to make sure nothing else is lodged between the board and the sensor. But hey, It's working again! Hooray!!

Brunnen-G · « **Reply #9 on:** June 15, 2005, 09:02:13 am »

Sometimes the rubber damper on the back can bunch up and keep one of the switches activated intermittently. As you've found out, sometimes simply loosening the backing wingnuts can let it lay flat again.

Never tighten the wingnuts on the back of the target more than *just barely* finger tight.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #10 on:** June 15, 2005, 09:59:21 am »

Sometimes the "pie wedge" shaped target segment develop a split at the pointed end (near the bullseye) which causes the segment to intermittenly stick and hold the membrane switch closed. Always be sure to occasionally dissasmble the target head and clean out the broken tips that have accumulated.

JLR2000 · « **Reply #11 on:** June 18, 2005, 10:48:33 pm »

Thanks to all for your feedback. I've gotten the game all fixed up, with a new double bull and monitor glass. Luckily I live near Happ Controls so I was able to save on shipping.

Thanks again for the valuable info.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #12 on:** December 14, 2009, 04:20:33 pm »

More manuals are now here:

http://home.comcast.net/~mtpacifico/_kenskorner/kenskorner.html

Ken Layton · « **Reply #13 on:** January 27, 2010, 12:38:35 am »

Gameboard dip switch should be added if it is not presently installed on the gameboard.

More games were added in the software chip in later models.

Coin/credit board was not in the 6000 (Super Six), but is in the 6100, 6200, and 6300 series.

If the plastic "tips" of the hinge break off, they can be fixed cheap & easy by drilling a small starter hole and putting a screw in it.

If the clear plexiglass monitor cover breaks it's retainers off and the plexi flops around, you can fix it by drilling starter holes into the black plastic housing and putting in short sheet metal screws from the rear.

Havok · « **Reply #14 on:** February 02, 2010, 11:05:19 pm »

Quote from: Ken Layton on January 27, 2010, 12:38:35 am

If the clear plexiglass monitor cover breaks it's retainers off and the plexi flops around, you can fix it by drilling starter holes into the black plastic housing and putting in short sheet metal screws from the rear.

Thanks for the suggestion Ken - looks like I'll put my plexi back in, the retainers broke off, so I just took the plexi out!

Ken Layton · « **Reply #15 on:** February 03, 2010, 02:10:59 pm »

For the plexi fix, drill a 3/32" hole all the way through the black plastic panel. Then you can screw in a # 6 by 1/2" long sheet metal screw from the inside to hold on the plexi monitor cover.

Havok · « **Reply #16 on:** February 03, 2010, 02:35:24 pm »

Nice - that makes it even easier with the exact screws and drill bit to use. First I'll clean up the plexi with Novus and slap it back in there.

While I'm at it, I think I'll mess around with the Spider Writer too.

Thanks again Ken!

Ken Layton · « **Reply #17 on:** February 03, 2010, 02:45:03 pm »

If the plexi is really dirty, I spray it with 409 or other household cleaner and scrub it with a toothbrush and warm water. Let dry then go over it with the Novus #2 polish and it'll look like new.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #18 on:** November 11, 2010, 02:29:51 am »

There are now new links to the tech support at Arachnid for the 6000 series dart machines:

http://www.leagueleader.net/bullshooter/support-3/legacy-products-2/6000-series-dartboards

Ken Layton · « **Reply #19 on:** January 10, 2011, 12:58:22 am »

If anyone needs the lamp socket with bulb assembly for the "Remove Darts" and "Throw Darts" lights on the gameboard, here is where you can buy them cheaply:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/LP-70/14V-NEO-WEDGE-BASE-LAMP/1.html

studmuff · « **Reply #20 on:** May 02, 2012, 12:42:04 pm »

Hey Ken,

I just got a Super 6 Plus II. Are the coin door bulbs 658?

Thanks.

Tom.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #21 on:** May 03, 2012, 02:10:49 am »

The coin door lights can be either # 658 or # 161 bulbs. Either number is perfectly fine for that application.

studmuff · « **Reply #22 on:** May 03, 2012, 02:57:10 pm »

Quote from: Ken Layton on May 03, 2012, 02:10:49 am

The coin door lights can be either # 658 or # 161 bulbs. Either number is perfectly fine for that application.

Thanks Ken. You are the Best!

upprc04 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 11, 2012, 10:26:09 am »

I just picked up one of these off of craigslist.

Is there a good way to clean the inside and boards or should I just leave it? All of the cards on the inside have a nice layer of dust caked on. I haven't messed around with it too much, but everything seems to be working fine right now.
Wiped down the plastic parts and used a paintbrush to get dust off the boards as well as I could

There is also no plexiglass in front of the monitor. I'm going to look to see if I could cut one and put it in.
Cut plexiglass. The retainer is missing, so I will try to velcro it or something similar to secure it.

The whole back panel should come off correct? It looks like they had to screw in some 2x4s to make it more stable on the bottom at some point. Also the top half is a little wobbly when you try to move it, is this normal or is there a way to tighten it up?
The back panel does not come off. It was missing the two bolts on the back to secure the top. Found the right size in the manual and after adding them the top was a lot more secure.

Do you know what bulbs are used around the dart board itself? I have one but need to pick up two more to have it fully lit.
Found the correct size of bulb (5 1/2" 40 Watt). Added them. I noticed the two side ones have a reflector piece behind them. Is this really needed? Also, are there LED alternatives or something else that won't get as hot?

Edit: Answered most of my questions after reading manuals that Ken has linked to

upprc04 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 21, 2012, 11:37:56 am »

Quote from: Ken Layton on January 10, 2011, 12:58:22 am

If anyone needs the lamp socket with bulb assembly for the "Remove Darts" and "Throw Darts" lights on the gameboard, here is where you can buy them cheaply:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/LP-70/14V-NEO-WEDGE-BASE-LAMP/1.html

I ordered these for my 6300 and they were too small. Am I missing something?

upprc04 · « **Reply #25 on:** May 25, 2012, 10:56:51 am »

I noticed the dip switch to enable double bullseye for 2 credit games. I don't have the kit to add the separate/double bullseye. Is there anywhere where I could get that part or do I just have to get lucky on ebay? I was hoping I could just have it recognize double or single bull with the one piece bullseye, but that doesn't work as it always recognizes it as a single bull.

Nephasth · « **Reply #26 on:** May 25, 2012, 11:24:31 am »

You're going to need the double bull segments. You might even need a new matrix, if yours doesn't have the contacts for the double bull.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #27 on:** May 25, 2012, 12:58:36 pm »

Generally the double bull segments were included in a plastic zip-lock bag inside the machine (in that compartment to the left of the cashbox). Not every machine had that bag and it's possible it may have been removed/discarded over the years.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #28 on:** May 25, 2012, 01:54:45 pm »

For those of you who have the Super 6 series dart games, the original power supply is nothing but trouble because of poor design and bad ventilation in the cabinet. This thread mentions some things:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=60004.40

Here are pictures of the original power supply and one I converted to a standard switching regulator style.

upprc04 · « **Reply #29 on:** May 25, 2012, 03:34:41 pm »

Any reason I should look in to replacing the power supply? I haven't had any problems so far. Just wanted to make sure you meant it would need a lot of maintenance and at that point it's easier to replace with a better power supply.

Anyone have a spare double bull segment they want to git rid of/sell? The one I got didn't come with one.

benfaltys · « **Reply #30 on:** September 05, 2012, 05:29:38 pm »

Glad to find this forum! I have an English Mark board as well. I am a bit of a tinkerer and work in IT so of course I want to try a couple of things. First, is there source code available anywhere? I have an EPROM chip that I want to try to add some games features to for my board at home. Second, with the Galaxy 2 software work on an English Mark board? My guess is that it won't, probably some hardware issues there. Lastly (for now, is there anyway to get color display instead of just black/yellow? Thanks!

Ken Layton · « **Reply #31 on:** September 05, 2012, 07:03:17 pm »

There were some updated game software eproms issued. You'd have check with the service/parts department of your local Arachnid distributor.

Galaxy 2 and the Super 6 series are totally different hardware systems.

The Super 6 hardware is black & white graphics only.

upprc04 · « **Reply #32 on:** September 06, 2012, 09:52:18 am »

Has anyone had any luck getting used/new parts from Arachnid distributors for Super 6 machines recently? I would like to get a new dart board assembly with single/double bull and skinnier spider divider. Anyone know the best way to track one down?

Ken Layton · « **Reply #33 on:** September 06, 2012, 10:50:40 am »

Check with Happ Controls.

Step · « **Reply #34 on:** November 01, 2012, 03:45:19 am »

Just picked up a super 6 old style plug it in nothing at all except for light buzz from the area of the power supply any ideas on what to ck first, and how to possibly get it working?

benfaltys · « **Reply #35 on:** November 05, 2012, 04:57:30 pm »

What hardware would be needed to convert an old G1 to a G2? I can think of some obvious things like a new monitor and the buttons (adding the 3rd), and the main board. What else?

DanAcme · « **Reply #36 on:** November 11, 2012, 11:28:37 pm »

Fixed these issues. Please see below for new ones.

DanAcme · « **Reply #37 on:** November 12, 2012, 12:21:37 am »

I just picked up a Super 6 Plus II without a coin dilly (6000?) for $20. Everything works now, but the game just stops responding partially through games and even when running through demos when idle.

Also, the key won't work to open the front panel for some reason. Thanks in advance for any help!

Ken Layton · « **Reply #38 on:** December 03, 2012, 11:56:19 am »

Quote from: DanAcme on November 12, 2012, 12:21:37 am

I just picked up a Super 6 Plus II without a coin dilly (6000?) for $20. Everything works now, but the game just stops responding partially through games and even when running through demos when idle.

Also, the key won't work to open the front panel for some reason. Thanks in advance for any help!

If you got a Super Six Plus 2, that would be a model 6200 or 6300 and should have a "Coin/Credit" board installed. If that board has been removed, the pricing will be screwed up, but you could still play the machine.

The game locking up or freezing up is such a common problem and has been discussed many times and on many forums. To boil it down, there are two causes: broken dart tips in the target head holding one of the switch matrix contacts stuck closed or a bad power supply board.

All the cabinet locks are keyed alike to National Cabinet Lock Company key number C-415A. It can be ordered from most local locksmith shops, but it is also a key used on some Rowe jukeboxes and it can be ordered here:

http://www.needles4jukeboxes.com/rowe_keys.htm

Just scroll down that page about halfway and you'll see it.

The "electronics drawer" tilt down front and the dart machine wooden back door should both be a C-415A key. The coin door is always keyed differently from everything else so there could be just about any old lock and key on it.

JillAnn22 · « **Reply #39 on:** January 30, 2013, 10:14:08 pm »

Hi Ken, I recently picked up a super 6 plus ii and am having monitor issues. The monitor goes in and out and when it does its just fuzzy. I have hooked up a tv to the video jack and it just shows the same fuzziness as the monitor. Was hoping that maybe you could help?

Briandcheryl · « **Reply #40 on:** November 29, 2013, 04:56:54 pm »

I am looking for a monitor for my super six plus II. Where you able to find one for your machine?
Brian

Guero12 · « **Reply #41 on:** March 28, 2014, 03:56:23 pm »

Quote from: Ken Layton on May 25, 2012, 01:54:45 pm

For those of you who have the Super 6 series dart games, the original power supply is nothing but trouble because of poor design and bad ventilation in the cabinet. This thread mentions some things:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=60004.40

Here are pictures of the original power supply and one I converted to a standard switching regulator style.

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but did you convert the 21 volt output? Can you only use the 12v and 5v outputs to run the sound?

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #42 on:** September 24, 2015, 12:37:26 am »

I am hoping for some help. I know this is an old thread, but I recently purchased, and am refurbishing, a VERY old Arachnid unit (6100 or 6200 I believe.)

2 questions:
1) Is it possible to purchase a spider with double bull anywhere?

2) The amber monitor on the dart machine turns on, but then the image fades out completely. Any ideas as to the issue here?

Thanks for whatever assistance you can offer!

pbj · « **Reply #43 on:** September 24, 2015, 09:42:58 am »

If you're in Texas, you're welcome to come to my house and drag all the guts for one of those out of my garage. I've got a conversion kit for double bull that was never installed. I WILL NOT ship any of this.

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #44 on:** September 24, 2015, 10:33:47 am »

Thanks for the reply. Sadly, I am in Michigan with no current plans to travel to Texas

Ken Layton · « **Reply #45 on:** September 29, 2015, 12:35:33 am »

Quote from: ScottHerriman on September 24, 2015, 12:37:26 am

I am hoping for some help. I know this is an old thread, but I recently purchased, and am refurbishing, a VERY old Arachnid unit (6100 or 6200 I believe.)

2 questions:
1) Is it possible to purchase a spider with double bull anywhere?

2) The amber monitor on the dart machine turns on, but then the image fades out completely. Any ideas as to the issue here?

Thanks for whatever assistance you can offer!

1: Check the parts department of Arachnid distributors. Check with Betson.com and look on ebay too.

2: First check capacitor C9 on the machine's power supply circuit board. It was originally 1 uf @ 25 volts, but Arachnid issued a service bulletin to upgrade it to 10 uf @ 50 volts. When this capacitor goes bad, it causes monitor problems. If after replacing that capacitor you still have monitor problems, then it's time to recap the monitor.

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #46 on:** October 11, 2015, 10:49:57 am »

Sent a PM to you Ken...not sure if you received it.
If anyone still looks at this thread and has Super 6 parts for sale, please let me know. Looking to replace the mainboard and the monitor :/

Thanks!!!

Crmath · « **Reply #47 on:** December 27, 2015, 05:30:52 pm »

Hi I recently have been working on a English marks super six ii 6300 Dart board I replaced the br1 rectifier and got the board working again. But the board on top of the power supply seems to be getting to hot. What would cause this? Any ideas from anyone I know its am old thread but I'm lost to what to do next. Thank you for any help you can give me.


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Author Topic: English Mark Darts - Super 6? Any Info Please... (Read 57820 times)

Nephasth