Cutting MDF for cabinet.

[DrewKaree]

The blade on the Circular Saw is a Freud that works great for MDF. 

Dynamite tip.  Swap out the generic blade they supply with a saw if at all possible, and Freud is one of the best aftermarket cutter manufacturers out there.  CMT also makes some dynamite stuff

[armax]

a hypoid is a a heavy duty design used in circular saws.

[DrewKaree]

Squares:

Speed Square



Try Sqaure



Combination Square



Using a square:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/print/0,17071,403568,00.html

For whoever this will work for.  Hope it helps.

[DrewKaree]

What about if they laid those two pieces of MDF on the ground atop a piece of that insulation, as was recommended earlier?  Solid support throughout the cut, no chance of the waste piece dropping off and binding the blade, no grain direction to worry about, no knots to worry about, no nothing to worry about other than cutting your cord and creating a semi-cordless circ saw.

Would that recommendation work?

Solid-foam insulation down!  Saws up!  Go ahead, have a th'o-down in Motown (and all other places you plan to cut MDF like this.

The insulation slab is very cheap.  Pick one up and saw away.

And yes, in this instance, there's STILL more stress on the saw than a 2x4, but then, any longer cut is more stressful than a shorter cut.  That's just science at work there.  Does that address everything?

[Sinner]

Well guys...I've decided to try and cut them one at a time...I think it'll  be safer in the long run, since I'm a spaz when it comes to this stuff...
I appreciate all the help...

Matt

[Steve Kaz]

Well, i just started my cab project the other night (my first one) and i really think that clamping two sheets of MDF together and cutting is the way to go.

[Sinner]

I know we all want things to be perfest, but I was wondering how much trouble you could have if you were out by a 16th of an inch in some places...would it be that noticable?  I just mean on the sides, not the other cuts...

[Truecade]

I just built a mini cabinet and I cut the second piece using a plunge router and a laminate bit.  It worked excellent and the two sides were identical.

First, cut one side and make all of the finishing touches exactly how you want the other side to look.  Then, clamp this side "template" under another piece of wood and set the router bit to the correct depth.  Then its just a matter of tracing the edges of your second side using the router. This will give you two identical sides.

I was using particle board, but I'm pretty sure this would work for MDF.  Just use make sure you're using a good mask because the MDF dust will get everywhere.

[Avery]

First, cut one side and make all of the finishing touches exactly how you want the other side to look.

[DrewKaree]

I know we all want things to be perfest, but I was wondering how much trouble you could have if you were out by a 16th of an inch in some places...would it be that noticable?  I just mean on the sides, not the other cuts...

Only if you're fastening another piece to it at a right angle.  It'll show up as a slight gap on either side of the amount you're over, or a gap in that area of the amount you're under.  You can sand it flush to the line you marked if you wish. 

[teetu]

I don't know what all this hooting is about.  I got a skill jigsaw on sale from home depot for 10 bucks, and it cut through 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF clamped together just fine.  I did have a nice blade (for ripping of course), and stopped twice during the cutting to let things cool.

I'm still gonna get that bosch jigsaw though, and I know that could cut through just about anything.

[Tailgunner]

What the heck is a hypoid?  Is that the brand name?  I've never heard of one, that's why I ask.

Hypoid is descriptive of a style of gears. A hypoid saw is built like a worm drive saw, both types have the blade on the left side and the motor's shaft running front to back. In both types, power is transmitted through a 90 degree gearset from the motor's shaft to the blade mounting shaft. They are built with stronger motors and tend to outlast normal circular saws by a conciderable margin.

[DrewKaree]

And worm drive's are those long-looking circ saws, right?  Almost like the handle is behind and detached-ish?  Are they easier, the same, or harder to control on-line?

[Tailgunner]

Generally easier, as you can see the cut better. That's assuming you're using it wrong like most carpenters do by using their right hand to control it. A worm drive or hypoid saw should be used left handed as using one right handed puts the blade in line with your body.  When (not if, use a circular saw enough and you'll experience kickback.) it kicks back, you'll cut your pee-pee in half. 

I'm a lefty, so I naturally prefer a wormdrive or hypoid saw.

[armax]

Generally easier, as you can see the cut better. That's assuming you're using it wrong like most carpenters do by using their right hand to control it. A worm drive or hypoid saw should be used left handed as using one right handed puts the blade in line with your body.