Please validate my thought process

[Veinman]

After much struggle, I have given up on trying to get a sheet of 5/8" MDF for the top of my control panel. Nobody in my area will be able to get it for me by the time I want to start building (Saturday). The 3/4" MDF for the rest of the cabinet is no problem.

On top of the panel will be 1/8" lexan. I also purchased 3/4" T-molding. I also intend to paint the top of the panel, and place some artwork here and there. So since paint must be applied, quality of surface is an issue.

This leaves me with a few options, and I'd love some advice on them:
1. 3/4" MDF, routed underneath all controls 1/8" to remove some depth.

 - 1a. Slot cut the middle of the MDF, and the lexan sits "above" the t-molding. Possibly bevel route the edge of the lexan?

 - 1b. Route a small 1/8" deep chunk out of the BOTTOM of the MDF edge, that would be hidden when viewing from above. This would essentially make my surface 3/4" with the lexan, and with an adjusted slotcut would achieve the look I really wanted in the first place. The slot would be cut with only about 3/16" of material on the skinny side of the MDF. Would that be okay?

2. Purchase a 5/8" thick piece of an alternate material for the top. Keeping in mind that it needs to be painted, any recommendations? I haven't investigated whether or not 5/8" is readily available in plywood, oak, etc.

[cholin]

Why don't you just use the same MDF you used for the cab, but buy thicker T-molding?

[Veinman]

I thought of that, and may do that. I'd like to have it all the same depth though. I was just trying to figure out a good way to do that.

[markrvp]

Will the artwork be just small logos that are pasted to the painted material, or are you going to make a complete CP overlay so that the entire CP is covered by printed vinyl?

If using a complete CP overlay, then buy 5/8" of something else.

[MiKman]

 - 1a. Slot cut the middle of the MDF, and the lexan sits "above" the t-molding. Possibly bevel route the edge of the lexan?

This is what I did, although I still don't have a finished control panel so I can't show you the results, But I think it looks nice.

[Veinman]

Will the artwork be just small logos that are pasted to the painted material,

Exactly correct. I'd tell you exactly what I have planned, but I'd rather wait and see if I can get reality to match what's been floating in my head for weeks.

[Avery]

I'd go with plywood if I were you.  If there is anything like a specialty woodworking shop in your area call them and see if they can get you some 5/8 baltic birch plywood.  It tends to be uniform, but cheap enough that high end woodworkers us it to make jigs.

[paigeoliver]

No one other than BYOAC members builds cabinets with t-molding covering the lexan (heck, the Lexan itself is more of a conversion game thing then something the original manufacturers did).

[Veinman]

Hmm. I suppose a nice bevel would look pretty slick, and wouldn't take the skin off of someone's wrist.

I'm not overly concerned with "authentic" arcade cabinet looks, as much as I'm concerned with good looks overall.

Hell, I started thinking about the paint (I was/am planning to paint the top with 5 different colors) and with all that, it may be very financially attractive to just pay $70 to mamemarquees to get a complete CP. If I do that, it doesn't really matter WHAT I make the CP out of, including a $5 sheet of particle board.

[markrvp]

 If I do that, it doesn't really matter WHAT I make the CP out of, including a $5 sheet of particle board.

DING!   DING!   DING!   

[Timoe]

The more I think about it the more I like the MAMEMARQUEES CPO idea.  I've been going over  and over how I'm gonna deal with cuttinf the lexan for my CP.  How will I flush mount my track ball and cut/route the circle for the ball, How do I get a smooth rounded eliptical edge for the front with the lexan , etc.

And then I saw mamemarquees CPO with the blue lightining or whatever.  Everyone says it makes a durable finish layer and scott says you can cut it with an exacto knife.  The price seemed steep for a 48" piece, but after you figure the cost of printing something that big, high quality then buying the big piece of lexan and dealing with that, its actually quite the bargain.

Not to mention you dont have to deal with your T-molding not covering your edge.

[Timoe]

oh and 10% discount if you mention BYOAC.


I wont get to build my CP for almost 2 months so let us know how it works out for ya.

[Kremmit]

This leaves me with a few options, and I'd love some advice on them:
1. 3/4" MDF, routed underneath all controls 1/8" to remove some depth.

Seems like I'm always seeing folks that rout out individual button & joystick pockets.  If you're planning to rout for depth, save yourself some work, & just rout a big, rectangular recess that covers the entire control area.

Or, why not just finish the job, & rout the whole thing, making that 5/8 sheet you wanted in the first place?

[Veinman]

oh and 10% discount if you mention BYOAC.

Really? I didn't know about that discount! That definitely sounds good. I was still planning on covering the overlay with lexan, seeing as I've already bought it. I have never seen one of the overlays in person, but I would certainly believe that covering it would be a good idea.

I'll have to read more on their site.

[kcoleman]

You might also look for MDO plywood.  MDO stands for Medium Density Overlay.  Its basically plywood with a very smooth overlay, I think made out of some sort of paper. It paints great and also routes out very nicely.  I think you can get 5/8 inch no problem. 

[SirPeale]

No one other than BYOAC members builds cabinets with t-molding covering the lexan (heck, the Lexan itself is more of a conversion game thing then something the original manufacturers did).

That's because most BYOAC'rs print artwork that will be easily damaged, so to protect it they put it under a lexan sheet.  To give the impression that it's all one piece, they do that 't-molding' thing.  Actually quite a clever trick, IMO.

Actual arcade artwork doesn't require that because it's already printed on lexan (usually).  The plexi on top of CPs is to hide the holes from previous conversions.

[Avery]

Or, why not just finish the job, & rout the whole thing, making that 5/8 sheet you wanted in the first place?

That's one of those easier said than done things.   The problem is, when you get to the end, you would have nothing for the router base to sit on and would wind up having to finish with a hand plane or chissel.

Though you're right - If you are just making a thin spot to bolt something on from behind, there is no reason it has to be precise.

[Kremmit]

Or, why not just finish the job, & rout the whole thing, making that 5/8 sheet you wanted in the first place?

That's one of those easier said than done things.   The problem is, when you get to the end, you would have nothing for the router base to sit on and would wind up having to finish with a hand plane or chissel.

Not if you rout before you cut the control panel off of the full-sized sheet.  Go to the store, buy a sheet of wood, rout a rectangle a little larger than the size of your control panel, then cut it out.

[AceTKK]

Buy a planer 

On my CP I'm going with 3/4" MDF with a laminated print (like what Mamemarquees offers).  It's more authentic, just as durable, and won't scratch all to hell like plexi. 

-Ace-

[Joystick Jerk]

If you can afford it, buy a 5/8 sheet of hardwood. It's easier to find than MDF, plus it'll stand up to the abuse of years of jerking the joysticks and slamming on the trackball.

[dema]

You can't find 5/8" mdf? My local Home Depot and Lowes both carry it. I'm surprised that they don't have it where you live.

[Veinman]

Buy a planer 

-Ace-

Am I correct in thinking that MDF would be a total disaster in a planer?

dema- My city has about 45,000 people. Apparently the Gods of Home Improvement have deemed us unworthy of 5/8" MDF. I can get it if I'm willing to drive 45 minutes north, but I'm not.

[NinjaEpisode]

Dude 1 1/2 hours out of your day to get the right material is nothing compared to the satisfaction you'll have of building the thing right.

Hell, I'd drive that just to pick up the right part if necessary rather than settling on a sub standard part, or having to pay shipping online.

[Veinman]

I would too, if it were just me that I'd be putting out. I don't have a vehicle capable of transporting a 4x8 sheet. I could have them cut it, but that idea doesn't appeal to me much. I'm afraid that I'd have them cut it, only to find out that I wished they hadn't done so later.

It's no big deal, I'll work around these issues. I don't think anyone can say he didn't have to adapt his cabinet plans to match reality.

[amerish]

I had the same problem.