Author Topic: repainting coin door (Read 7121 times)

greywolf22 · « **on:** July 11, 2004, 12:41:16 pm »

Hey all,

I remember there used to be a really good write up on restoring/refurbishing coin doors, but can't seem to find it. Specifically what's the best way to paint a coin door? Spray paint? Roller? Does it matter? Any hints or links to docs on this would be really appreciated. Thanks

Ken Layton · « **Reply #1 on:** July 11, 2004, 01:28:14 pm »

Roller? You've got to be kidding?

I strip the door of all parts then chemically strip the old paint. Then a good coat of black Hammerite spray paint and throw the door in the oven at 190 degrees for 30 minutes. Let cool naturally for two hours and you're ready to reassemble.

greywolf22 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 11, 2004, 03:00:15 pm »

Thanks Ken, that was just the type of information I was looking for

SirPeale · « **Reply #3 on:** July 11, 2004, 03:30:48 pm »

http://www.pealefamily.net/tech/arcade/coindoor/

greywolf22 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 11, 2004, 03:51:28 pm »

Thanks Peale,

This is the link I was searching for

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #5 on:** July 11, 2004, 11:32:52 pm »

Strip, sand, then PRIME, bake, then place a couple coats of FLAT paint (it wont run), then a layer of hammered paint, bake, then a final coat of semi-gloss black paint, bake.

The extra flat black layers help build up a good base and cause you to be less likely to overspray the final glossier paints that run too easy.

mmmPeanutButter · « **Reply #6 on:** July 12, 2004, 08:35:41 am »

I used rustoleum textured paint as opposed to the hammered. I think it looks really good.

I used CitriStrip to strip it, then a little sanding, a couple coats of primer and like 6 coats of textured paint. I didn't do any baking, although I guess it could have saved me some time.

SirPeale · « **Reply #7 on:** July 12, 2004, 08:42:16 am »

The Rust-Oleum textured palnt doesn't run either, and it's closer to an original finish than the hammered stuff. It appears to be self-leveling as well.

MonitorGuru is right about the priming, though.

Santoro · « **Reply #8 on:** July 12, 2004, 08:59:04 am »

Bake!?

Does it stink up the house and oven?

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #9 on:** July 12, 2004, 09:23:48 am »

Even though I live in the upper midwest, i do all my painting in the summer when we're around 85-95 degrees, and my baking is out in the hot sun. A good days worth of baking is probably the same as a 190 degree oven, considering its black paint, I'm sure the surface gets to at least 150 from the sun.

I don't like hammered as a final coat, but if I use it as a second to last coat, the final coat seems to smooth out some of the hammering and make it look more like the flat blobs that the original powder coating had. I'd suppose textured would work similarily, though again, I'd want a smooth coat topping it, and dont leave it as a final coat..i've noticed its too sandpaper like otherwise.

SirPeale · « **Reply #10 on:** July 12, 2004, 09:31:24 am »

Quote from: Santoro on July 12, 2004, 08:59:04 am

Bake!?

Does it stink up the house and oven?

A little bit, not overwhelming though. You don't want the oven too hot, only 150-180 degrees. And only for 15-30 minutes.

Ken Layton · « **Reply #11 on:** July 12, 2004, 10:45:38 am »

Of course if your like me I use wrinkle paint which requires the oven bake 190 degrees for 45 minutes to one hour for best results. Besides, I love the smell of paint.

shawshank · « **Reply #12 on:** July 12, 2004, 10:38:54 pm »

I have a door exactly like mmmPeanutButter. I stripped it by hand using course steel wool, then applied a special primer that adheres to stainless steel. The primer is from Duron called 'Stain-Killer 2'. It is water-based. I lightly sanded in between coats, then applied a 'Plastic-Kote' semi-gloss Jet Black (Duron also) to the coin door. Looks great! Just takes some time, though.

RayB · « **Reply #13 on:** July 12, 2004, 10:47:46 pm »

Great advice folks. Sounds like there are 3 or 4 ways to do it... (for example, I also heard that to get that original powder coat texture, you use stone paint, and then sand it down, and then add the black layer).

I've got a Midway door just waiting for this....

whammoed · « **Reply #14 on:** July 13, 2004, 12:29:26 am »

Don't forget the option of actually having it powder coated. You may be able to find a power coater that could "throw in" your coin door on an existing run. Black, and black wrinkle finish are usually common runs for powder coaters. That is what I did for my metal control panels...cost about $10 bucks each. Pricey but worth it considering that the primer and spray paint could cost over $5 anyway.

danny_galaga · « **Reply #15 on:** July 13, 2004, 06:35:52 am »

another extremely durable finish (if youre not worried about it not being black) is to have it chrome plated. the other suggestions of powder-coating are very durable also, just have to watch the coin slot/s since they will become appreciably smaller...

greywolf22 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 13, 2004, 04:46:22 pm »

Lots of great ideas on this one..thanks for all the tips everyone

etoasty · « **Reply #17 on:** July 18, 2004, 11:19:16 am »

I'm glad I can across this thread before I made a new one, I have a related question.

I have an over under coin door that still has the original texture coat on it, but the black paint is faded in some places and there's small surface scratches here and there. I just want to make the whole coin door an even, dark black. Should I just spray black semi-gloss on it or do something else?
And what's the best brand in your opinions.

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #18 on:** July 18, 2004, 11:20:46 pm »

You'll want to scuff up the existing semi-gloss/gloss power coating to ensure proper adhesion (otherwise it will be more likely to flake off)

Just take a 120 grit foam sanding block and spend like 5 minutes on the door on all sides to remove some of the sheen.

The simply take semi-gloss black spray paint and go over it. Remember, the key with any paint containing gloss... IT RUNS. Do not over spray any particular spot. Always err on the side of a second coat later rather than overspraying the first coat.

Spray PAST an edge before you go back the other way (otherwise you tend to put twice as much or more on the edge when you swing back and forth, causing huge runs).

Spray a light coat on. Wait a few minutes for it to dry some, then go over again. You usually can do a second coat within an hour or after 24 hours.

After spraying, place the item in the sun and let it bake (make sure it's not sticky to pick up dust blowing). This will help dry/harden the surface better.

If you strip to bare metal then you'll need to prime and may want to put a few base coats as described above, but a simple overcoat just do this quick way.

As far as brands...

For flat black base paint (not , I use whatever is cheapest... the 97 cent stuff from Home Depot or K-Mart (10 ounces only) works fine. I would NOT use this for anything other than a base that is covered up by something else.

For primer, I use grey clean-metal primer from Rustoleum or Red-colored metal/wood primer from Painters Touch (Rustoleum), 12 ounces. $1.99-$3.50 depending on sales

For semi-gloss final coats I use one of the following:
Rustoleum Semi-GLoss Black 12 oz
Painters Touch (Rustoleum) Semi-Gloss Black 12 oz
Krylon Semi-Gloss black 12 ounces

All about $1.69 to $3.99

RetroJames · « **Reply #19 on:** July 18, 2004, 11:27:47 pm »

Quote from: Peale on July 11, 2004, 03:30:48 pm

http://www.pealefamily.net/tech/mame/coindoor/

"So you managed to get yourself a used coin door for cheap, but it looks like complete....."

LOL!

etoasty · « **Reply #20 on:** July 19, 2004, 03:22:15 pm »

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13718&item=6105854497&rd=1

mechs and lights still worked. Overall I'm happy with it.

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #21 on:** July 19, 2004, 03:34:23 pm »

I did some more painting today on my Nintendo cocktail (coverting to Mame as it was too far depleated to make it feasable to rebuild).

Word of advice: Make sure you let the temperature of the metal AND the paint to equalize in the enviornment you're going to be painting in.

I did this one other time screwing up painting a metal light fixture, but did it again today.

I primed over the weekend, then set the primed metal shell in the house (74 degree, ~40% RH a/c'd). I grabbed the can of flat paint from the basement (64 degree, ~20% RH a/c'd probably or less). Took it all out to the garage (77 degree ~50% RH) and opened the door into the sun. It was about 85 and ~60% RH outside)

I sanded for a little bit and let the paint warm up in the sun. When I shook it felt air temp, not cold like it had felt. Everything went fine until I oversprayed a few spots (too close, too long). Even though it is flat paint, there is enoug Toluene/Xylene/Acetone in it to become a bit glosy if oversprayed. Sure enough, about 5 spots inside the shell started blistering (cool effect if you WANT it not if you dont). About 1"x3" areas. Not crackle, but it lifted the primer into polygon like hills and valleys before drying. I'm sure it had to do with the temperature differential between air, metal, paint.

Anyway, just thought I'd warn everyone you want to equalize temperatures before painting.

tcottle · « **Reply #22 on:** July 19, 2004, 09:11:27 pm »

I did not like how a black coin door blended into the black body of the cabinet so I painted mine "Mame" blue with plain old rustoleum

Gamecab · « **Reply #23 on:** July 19, 2004, 10:45:25 pm »

When I buy a coin door (Normally from Ebay), I strip out all of the parts and then sandblast off all of the paint and rust. Sears sells a sandblaster for $50 and you can use it on any compressor, even the small 2 gallon types.
Next I give the coin door a quick spray coating of Rustolium flat black as a primer and let it cook in the sun for an hour. Once the hour is up, I follow up with a semi-gloss black (one quick coat) and let that bake in the sun. I normally give it about 4 more spray coats and sun bakings and it looks great when it's all done.

I just hate cleaning up all the sand after Sandblasting.

Charlie

danny_galaga · « **Reply #24 on:** July 20, 2004, 09:45:36 am »

you need a beadblasting cabinet

xar256 · « **Reply #25 on:** July 20, 2004, 10:13:23 am »

I stripped my coin door down to bare metal with a wire stripper attechment for my drill <you REALLY want a dust mask for that

> and I just painted it up with Tremclad Gloss black <I ended up doing the plastic too since the previous owner just gave the whole door a quick shot of black spray paint before Ebaying it. Man it was a pain to get the clear plastic cleaned up <but a little elbow grease and the right chemicals, and it worked great>

Xar256

xar256 · « **Reply #26 on:** July 20, 2004, 10:17:10 am »

A better look at the plastics. These had to be partially rebuilt with epoxy, before they were usable.

Xar256

etoasty · « **Reply #27 on:** July 24, 2004, 04:23:25 pm »

Does any of you guys ever put clearcoat on your coin doors or bins? I just painted my coin bin with Rust-Oleum textured paint, and now i'm wondering if I should put clearcoat on it to protect it from scratches from the drawer (or whatever it's called) sliding in and out of the bin.

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #28 on:** July 24, 2004, 07:14:09 pm »

Clearcoat may be too shiney. I'd cover the textured with a coat of semi-gloss black.

I do this all the time using any color of hammered as the second to the last coat, then cover it with semi-gloss black as the final coat to remove the extreme sheen of the hammered.

shawshank · « **Reply #29 on:** July 25, 2004, 09:59:53 pm »

I tried a clear coat and the coat kept on drying with a very fine white powder in certain spots. It was really annoying so I sanded away the clear coar and went back to a semi-gloss black finish.

Anyone know where I can find a lock for my door?

MonitorGuru · « **Reply #30 on:** July 25, 2004, 11:06:49 pm »

Locks are available from www.therealbobroberts.com or on ebay.

Or just go to your local hardware store. They're usually $2.99. Depending on the coin door you'll need 7/8" or 1 1/8" ones.

mmmPeanutButter · « **Reply #31 on:** July 25, 2004, 11:13:39 pm »

Quote from: shawshank on July 25, 2004, 09:59:53 pm

Anyone know where I can find a lock for my door?

Talk to Peale... I got my locks from him. Great price and fast shipping... I can't believe I'm going to beat him posting this...

SirPeale · « **Reply #32 on:** July 25, 2004, 11:52:30 pm »

Quote from: mmmPeanutButter on July 25, 2004, 11:13:39 pm

Talk to Peale... I got my locks from him. Great price and fast shipping... I can't believe I'm going to beat him posting this...

I can't believe it either.

Let me know what kind of coin door. Midway doors you will either need a 1 1/18" lock or a 7/8" with an offset cam. This I do not have.

greywolf22 · « **Reply #33 on:** July 26, 2004, 11:33:41 am »

This brings up a good point. I have a stern coin door, does anyone happen to know what size locks these doors used? Just curious if it was standard across the board or if they are like midway and used different sized locks. Thanks

hunky_artist · « **Reply #34 on:** July 26, 2004, 11:50:11 am »

dumb question from a newbie to all this... what's with the baking?

SirPeale · « **Reply #35 on:** July 26, 2004, 11:55:19 am »

Speeds the drying process, and makes it harder.

etoasty · « **Reply #36 on:** July 26, 2004, 02:11:33 pm »

To continue with the lock questions, do CCI over/under coin doors use the same size locks as well?

Oh yeah, I think my coin door turned out nifty. I'll take a picture if I can kidnapp my little brother's digital camera. It's amazing what 4 coats of black semi-gloss and georgia summer sunshine can do.

Now to rewire it ...
Oh yeah, meow that I think about it ... would the 2 12v coin door lights put enough load on an otherwise unused switching power supply to keep it from burning up. I have it disconnected right meow because I have nothing that needs DC power.

I know that I can just nab a wire out of the computer's PSU, but I don't really want to run any more wires out of the case than i have to.

SirPeale · « **Reply #37 on:** July 26, 2004, 04:20:36 pm »

Quote from: etoasty on July 26, 2004, 02:11:33 pm

meow meow

Aw...did someone just get done watching Super Troopers?

Also: yes, CCI doors will take a 7/8" lock.

Beretta · « **Reply #38 on:** August 12, 2009, 06:59:19 am »

old thread i know but i did'nt see anything newer.

im in the middle of redoing a few coin doors all of them have a fair bit of rust.

im taking the rust off with a wire wheel and a rotary tool which has so far worked reasonably well.

for the actual door i'll have a wire wheel and corded drill.

i bought some paint tonoight, actually i have'nt even started and im already regretting my choice.

the rust is pretty bad on the coin mech holders, simply wire wheeling the rust off is'nt gonna be a long term solution as i figure it'll just come back..

i bought some rust-olium hammered black.. this looks like a good match for the door it self.

i also bought some rust-olium clean metal primer, the hammered say's it does'nt need primer but it also says it will work better with the primer.. so im thinking 1 coat of primer + 2 coats of hammered black for the most part.

the part im regretting is i cheaped out and also bought some .96 cents gloss black, i figured this would be the top coat on the mech holder hardware since like i said has a fair bit of rust and i dont think simply hitting it with the wirewheel will keep it gone for good.

the idea is the back will get 1 coat of primer and probably just 1 coat of gloss black, i picked gloss because i figured it would be better then straight primer or flat black..
smoother for example at the top for the coin ramp into the coin mech.

but now i have doubts.. what if the cheap paint starts to crack, split or peal 6 months from now? i seen some rust-olium special purpose high gloss black, the chair on it's front looked like a mirror image but i have doubts it would turn out so great on what im gonna use it on.

anyway i did'nt post ot moan about my cheap skatieness.

all of the paints say to recoat within 1 hour, or wait 48 hours..

the except being the cheapo paint which is 4 hours or 1 week! omg i should have read the fine print.

anyway question is there any difference to recoating early.. within that 1 hour.. or is it better to wait the 48 hours for it to completely cure?

also the primer says top coat in minutes, so i can primer and then 10 mins later apply a top coat? that seems rather quick.. should i wait until the primer as dried before starting to apply the hammered black?

SirPeale · « **Reply #39 on:** September 27, 2009, 07:52:08 am »

I'd return that .96 stuff. Or you can keep it and use it somewhere non important. I bought some the other day but only to use on touching up the inside areas on a Galaxian cab.

I also wouldn't use gloss, it's /too/ glossy. Go with semi-gloss.

I won't use anything other than Rust-Oleum brand paints. I've never had a problem with it.

Encryptor · « **Reply #40 on:** September 27, 2009, 08:27:43 am »

I went with the powder coating and I like the way it turned out. I had the door done in a black wrinkle finish and the coin entry slots done in a chrome powder coat (looks silver though). It cost me $40 but I thought it was worth it. It's a durable finish that should last for many years.

Encryptor

bkenobi · « **Reply #41 on:** September 27, 2009, 11:03:50 am »

$40 sounds like a really good price. If you bought the paint and primer, you would have spent $15-20 (that hammered finish stuff is pretty pricey). Did they do the prep work for you (removing the old paint)? If so, you did really good on price IMO.

Encryptor · « **Reply #42 on:** September 27, 2009, 11:34:25 am »

Yeah they did everything. I took it apart and brought the coin door, frame and coin chutes to them. They sand blasted them or whatever they do before powder coating and I picked up the pieces all finished. All I had to do was put them back together. Powder coating is an incredibly durable finish.

Encryptor

Ken Layton · « **Reply #43 on:** September 27, 2009, 12:40:14 pm »

Boy that door looks brand new!

SirPeale · « **Reply #44 on:** September 27, 2009, 01:26:12 pm »

What did you do for logo rivets?

Beretta · « **Reply #45 on:** September 27, 2009, 02:08:39 pm »

im not returning dollar paint.. it's already done anyway.. but yes it was a lesson do not buy cheap paint.

rustolum rocks for sure.

Encryptor · « **Reply #46 on:** September 27, 2009, 04:09:14 pm »

Quote from: SirPeale on September 27, 2009, 01:26:12 pm

What did you do for logo rivets?

They aren't really rivets. The label is stuck on with double stick tape. The "rivets" are from a craft store and are not really rivets. The are more for show. I'm watching the rivet thread waiting to see what you guys can find. csa3d had a thread about this a couple of years ago but I don't think he ever found anything.

This is what they are.

http://www.acmoore.com/p-55804-mini-circle-brads-100pkg-gold.aspx

Encryptor


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