Author Topic: artwork printing!!! pretty simple (Read 17184 times)

SNAAAKE · « **on:** August 07, 2002, 07:34:09 pm »

okay i am trying to print out an artwork for my new panel..the size is 27x14....now my question is that if

300 DPI is good enough for this size?after all kinkos wont refund or make me another print if i screw up myself.anyone who printed artwork before,please post how good the image has to be..or how people's artwork came out...or someone please confirm whats the resolution has to be..decent atleast...my biggest fear is that i bring the artwork to kinko and they print out a very crappy,blocky,jaggy artwork..also which file i take?
.JPG or .PSP. JPG seem to have less quility...someone please please clear things over here

thanks for any and all info on this..thanks for anyone who replies..

Yarb · « **Reply #1 on:** August 07, 2002, 07:49:46 pm »

Snaaaake

The resolution you need depends on the artwork itself and the output device your printing on. For photos 300 dpi is more than adequate, amazingly 150 dpi is oftem good enough for photos. If your printing lines, especially diagnals then the resolution needed increases. Can you post a sample of your art? Also NEVER use J-pegs for artwork since jpegs change the image to get the file size down. Also a jpegs quality decreases each time you save it since it gets recompressed. I prefer tif myself since its not a lossy format and it can be compressed when saving in photoshop.

Mike

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #2 on:** August 07, 2002, 08:24:54 pm »

mike,

will kinkos print .TIF???
here is a sample

now will kinkos print PAINT SHOP FORMAT..i am planing 300 DPI after what you said..also what kind of paper should i print it out.i am putting a piece of plexi on top of the panel so it dont have to be self stick.

THANKS A LOT FOR THE HELP MAN...i am like super worried about this printing out wrong..it cost like 40$ on vinyl... so please confirm about the format issue...which i take to kinkos???

Keith O · « **Reply #3 on:** August 07, 2002, 08:58:45 pm »

Kinko's should accept tif's - it's a pretty standard file format. I totally agree with Yarb on the resolution and file format (go with tif). Contact Kinko's and make sure about the file format as well as size limitations (file size - not dimensions). They may charge more for HUGE files.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #4 on:** August 07, 2002, 09:02:36 pm »

okay keith thanks..
i am goin there tomorrow..i will post how it came out from the print.

Yarb · « **Reply #5 on:** August 07, 2002, 09:19:59 pm »

Im not sure what Kinkos can do, I plan to print proofs of mine on my deskjet printer on photo paper then plan to Print the final on Tyvek plotter paper when I have a plotter in the shop ... After all the printer HAS to be tested to be sure it is fixed ( :

Mike

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #6 on:** August 07, 2002, 09:53:09 pm »

yarb how big your artwork is?
i know i cant do mine using my crappy printer...still wanted to know..thanks

JLR2000 · « **Reply #7 on:** August 07, 2002, 10:37:20 pm »

I had Kinkos print my marquee since it was larger than normal. I remember that I converted the final artwork to .PDF because it was universal. I will tell you that the marquee came out OK, they used a color plotter, but I was not impressed, to say the least, by the quality. I think I paid $45-$50 for it. Afterwards I had wished I looked into going to a professional print shop instead of a copy shop (Kinkos). Just my 2 cents, but for paying that much, the results were less than spectacular. Never did any price quotes from a print shop, but wish I had......Good Luck.

Malenko · « **Reply #8 on:** August 07, 2002, 11:19:31 pm »

I had them print up my bezel on high quality glassy paper. The trimmed it and laminated it, thw works and it was only 27 dollars, I think a marquee would have cost me 14.

Of course it wasnt printed on over sized paper, it was printed in pieces then laminated together (and you cant even tell)

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #9 on:** August 08, 2002, 01:12:36 am »

hey thanks everyone!

i am goin there tomorrow..i email chuck dude and he told me what paper i should use and all..i will make sure i post the result...

Yarb · « **Reply #10 on:** August 08, 2002, 01:54:16 am »

How big is my artwork.... HMMMM Good question.. All I have since getting onto doing a Cab a few weeks ago is an Ipac, 1 happ super joystick, some buttons and a 21" monitor. I went hunting a Cab and found out the local company had recently moved and had already "disposed" of all their old stuff, they said they threw out 2 dumpsers of old cabs and parts

Once I create my art in photoshop I will proof it on photo paper, I wont be able to print it all one one sheet but it will be sufficient for a test. Then Im hoping to output it on a plotter using the Tyvec plastic paper HP has available

Yarb

Rahzel · « **Reply #11 on:** August 09, 2002, 06:36:12 am »

I just had a quick comment to make. I'm in the middle of getting my artwork finished but I'm wondering, how can u change the DPI (i use photoshop) without the actual image getting A LOT bigger? The width and height stays the same but when it is printed its magnified many times.

neuromancer · « **Reply #12 on:** August 09, 2002, 09:53:50 am »

Quote from: Rahzel on August 09, 2002, 06:36:12 am

I just had a quick comment to make. I'm in the middle of getting my artwork finished but I'm wondering, how can u change the DPI (i use photoshop) without the actual image getting A LOT bigger? The width and height stays the same but when it is printed its magnified many times.

In Photoshop: Image | Resize

In the resize dialog, if the "resample" box is selected, it will change how many dots you have, recreating your image. If your artwork is finished, there is not much point to more dots, they just make bigger files.

If the "resample" box is not selected, it will simply recalculate how large the image is based on how many dots are in it, or it will recalculate how many dpi there are for the new size in inches that you typed in.

Bob

Yarb · « **Reply #13 on:** August 09, 2002, 11:46:02 am »

The DPI of an Image is a relationship between the actual pixel dimension and the size in inches. Therefore if you take a 300 dpi image that is one square inch and change it to a 150 dpi image that is 2 x 2 inches you have not changes a single pixel.

In Photoshop if you deselect the resample image checkbox in the image size controls it will automatically adjust the dpi as you adjust the size or vice versa to maintain that ratio so that no actual pixels will be harmed.

As a matter of habit I always sample, scan etc everything at the highest resolution possible. You can sample down an image without a lot of loss in quality but going to a larger size or higher resolution will hammer the quality.

One other trick I like is to use unsharp mask in LAB mode on the lightness layer. This allows you to over-sharpen the details of an image without affecting the color information resulting in better sharpness with fewer artifacts.

For anyone interested in serious Photoshop I recommend The Photoshop Bible by Deke McClelland. You wont find a better book anywhere

Mike

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #14 on:** August 09, 2002, 10:10:36 pm »

okay got back from kinkos today.

i ordered the marque print only...to see how it might turn out..

here is what they want for the panel,
27"x14"

vinyl-$17
matt paper(regular paper)-$25
glossy paper-$30

now my question is,HOW bad is vinyl if you print something out on that.thats the cheapest they have..anyone ever printed anything...anybody wondring what i am trying to print,scroll up...thats the art...ANYONE EVER PRINTED ANYTHING ON VINYAL....please post...thanks to anyone for any kind of advice or info.

x-wing · « **Reply #15 on:** August 10, 2002, 12:28:25 am »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on August 09, 2002, 10:10:36 pm

ANYONE EVER PRINTED ANYTHING ON VINYAL....please post...thanks to anyone for any kind of advice or info.

sNnnnaK,

Is VINYAL some kind of special material that Kinko's uses, as I've never heard of it before?? Since you typed it in all CAPS, I'm sure it has some kind of significance that you didn't want us to miss.

Typically, vinyl printing is fairly high quality. I've called a few kinkos around me, and none of them offers a vinyl medium. I'm kind of surprised that would be their cheapest option. What's the mil on the vinyl? That might tell it all.

If you are worried about spending a couple of dollars extra to find out, I would try the VINYAL just to see how it turns out. Even if it turns out bad, I'm sure you could ebay it....

Yarb · « **Reply #16 on:** August 10, 2002, 02:35:53 pm »

Ive had printing done for our Van on Vynal, Its guaranteed not to fade for 3 years and after 2 it still looks great. I have to say it costs a bundle though,

I wonder how well an inkjet printer would do, mine will do banners although ive never tried and I thought I could just print it on photo paper. If it faded after a year or two I could always just reprint it and I would be able to change it ona whim. Only problem is the 8 1/2 inch width, arent most marquees 9"?

Yarb

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #17 on:** August 11, 2002, 01:42:07 am »

okay got back from kinkos...damn it result aint that great..the guy at kinkos was very stupid..he had no clue what would fit my needs..he got me the marque in glossy paper...its not very color full...anyhoos here is how it came out..

take my advice and never print any marque on glossy paper,just regular paper is good..

anyone interested in this marque..AIM me..and make offer..i will do for $10..then i can go get another print.

Yarb · « **Reply #18 on:** August 11, 2002, 12:47:25 pm »

I never have figured out why colors arent as good on gloss as on matte papers. Since its not what you wanted did kinkos charge you full price?

Mike

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #19 on:** August 11, 2002, 12:58:37 pm »

okay mike here is a funny story...

i got this free

,i was too happy about the marque thinking that it will look very cool(IT DONT

).and like i said before,the guy at kinkos was very stupid.he gave me the envelope and said "thank you sir,have a nice day".so after i got back.i realized i did not pay him anything.now i could be kind enough to go back and pay but the marque look all washed out when back lit the thing.so i will be printing another one on matt paper.i will post about the panel later on to let people know how it turn out.so it might help people decide how and where to print it.

Sasquatch! · « **Reply #20 on:** August 11, 2002, 07:10:57 pm »

I had to go back-and-forth to Kinkos FOUR TIMES to get them to print my marquee right (http://www.arcadeparadise.org/arcade/ap2/marquee.html), so I know what you mean.

Howard_Casto · « **Reply #21 on:** August 11, 2002, 08:32:25 pm »

Here's What I'm gonna do...

You can get plotter vinyl on ebay and at other sites.... it's basically a big long roll of vinyl that is used to make those stickers you ses on cars. So another bonus is that it's self-adhesive.

I'm going to get a 11 inch by oh lets say 8 foot roll of white, use an exacto knife to cut it to size, (plus a little bit of overlap incase it prints a tad crooked) and sitck it in my printer. Turn my printer on in continous feed mode, set it to print on glossly photo paper (about the same texture) and let her go.

I'm lazy so I still haven't gotten any to play with, but this should work well.

It's at least worth a try if you have a decent printer. The rolls are on ebay all the time for about 6-8 bucks.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #22 on:** August 11, 2002, 09:58:48 pm »

man i think i should punish kinkos..it takes about 1 and half hour to get there..so i come back home with the control panel art and its short by 2 inces both ways...SUCKS..now i just dont know what to say about kinkos..the art came out very good but not right size and i wont go back to pay the $12 i owe for the marque.also the guy over at kinkos told me it will cost $25 to print out the panel art..so i go there today to pick up..and another one claims its $47..now my face turned all red and i stated aiming my fists for the guy's nose..so the guy got scared and he agrees that i pay $25.now the art was good deal for $25....anyhoos...here is a pic.

..anyone wondrin which paper to use..i say use glossy..color is very bright and good looky.

rampy · « **Reply #23 on:** August 11, 2002, 10:09:38 pm »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on August 11, 2002, 09:58:48 pm

..anyone wondrin which paper to use..i say use glossy..color is very bright and good looky.

take my advice and never print any marque on glossy paper,just regular paper is good..

So which is it glossy or non? or is it non glossy for marquee printing and glossy for control panel/other art?

rampy

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #24 on:** August 12, 2002, 12:18:55 am »

hehe..>>both is glossy<<...i should have done the marque in regular paper because glossy is kinda thick and it makes the backlit kinda weird.
it dont look very bright even with a light behind it.but control panel is great great...very happy

BombProofPlane · « **Reply #25 on:** August 12, 2002, 12:59:36 am »

can i get a link to a tif of that overlay it looks cool

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #26 on:** August 12, 2002, 02:54:50 am »

did not upload anywhere yet..get me your email address..i will send..

BombProofPlane · « **Reply #27 on:** August 12, 2002, 09:22:40 am »

rsmaster2k@yahoo.com

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #28 on:** August 12, 2002, 12:22:15 pm »

hmm..okay the tiff file is like 13 mb..now how do i email that sort of stuff..got ftp or somethin...or AIM.....cant send 13mb in yahoo mail box.

i can send .JPG if you want...

BombProofPlane · « **Reply #29 on:** August 12, 2002, 02:16:47 pm »

send to bombproofplane on aim at 6pst pm

NaTSuMi · « **Reply #30 on:** August 12, 2002, 04:40:50 pm »

Quote from: BombProofPlane on August 12, 2002, 02:16:47 pm

send to bombproofplane on aim at 6pst pm

also send to natsumi626.... i'm usually on aim all day so just send when you see me

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #31 on:** August 12, 2002, 07:30:44 pm »

thanks for the interest peeps..i will send them...good luck to anyone with their project

Rahzel · « **Reply #32 on:** August 13, 2002, 12:20:15 am »

There's a guy I found on eBay that had these high-tech machines that cut wood for him, and with it he built his own cabinets and was selling them. He also mentioned for $30 he can print a custom marquee on PLEXI GLASS. I thought that was cool since Kinko's and who else doesn't print on that material. So I asked him if he could print one for me, so I sent him $45 for shipping and everything and just waiting for it to come. I'll let you all know how it comes out, and I'll try to get a pic up. If anyone want his e-mail leave a message and I'll post it. (not sure if its cool to post someones else's email on here)

BombProofPlane · « **Reply #33 on:** August 13, 2002, 12:32:52 am »

they are not that high tech they are milling machines and ive seen far better

cad programs can control them

MrToasty · « **Reply #34 on:** August 13, 2002, 12:34:55 am »

Rahzel,

Are you talking about this guy?
http://www.arcadeshopper.com/mamecab.htm

Pretty cool looking fabrication facility.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #35 on:** August 13, 2002, 12:39:48 am »

Too bad his cp design sucks. I wouldn't want to be 3rd or 4th player with a corner in my stomache.

Rahzel · « **Reply #36 on:** August 13, 2002, 01:56:07 am »

Quote from: mrtoasty on August 13, 2002, 12:34:55 am

Rahzel,

Are you talking about this guy?
http://www.arcadeshopper.com/mamecab.htm

Pretty cool looking fabrication facility.

Yessir. But I'm not using the same Marquee that he uses (obviously). I sent him my own pimped out graphic and he's printing it.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #37 on:** August 13, 2002, 03:05:15 am »

man man man !!!

why everyone sending pimpin grafics to him..you can do it yourself and save few buck..kinkos do on best paper for like 12$....15$ tops..i dont get the guy selling for $32 extra just for marque..also the cp design suck really bad...CORNER STOMACH..and 6 buttons for players 3 and 4 is very odd(NEVER SEEN).no 3 or 4 players game uses 6 buttons anyways.but the cab is SWEEEEEEET...just like i wanted mine..too bad my door way suck...wont ever fit.

MrToasty · « **Reply #38 on:** August 13, 2002, 03:16:07 am »

I think the point to paying the $30 was that he will print it directly on plexi, no screwing around with paper. In theory this is a much better solution than Kinko's. At least this guy knows what a marquee is - can't say the same for the people at Kinko's. You'd probably have to go to a sign shop to get this done normally.

As for the cab and cp design, yeah it kinda sucks, but he based it off of the Simpsons cabinet if I remember right. Can't say as I ever saw more than two people play that game at a time.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #39 on:** August 13, 2002, 06:15:23 pm »

sign shops do same for less then $20..right on plexi....but i still think its too much $30...saw the guy selling a 1 players control panel for $600....if thats not funny

then what is?

JustMichael · « **Reply #40 on:** August 13, 2002, 10:17:46 pm »

Someone buying it and thinking they got a "real bargain".

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #41 on:** August 13, 2002, 11:44:38 pm »

hahhahahh

funniest admin ever...lmao....too funny..buying a panel for $600 something $$$...

BombProofPlane · « **Reply #42 on:** August 13, 2002, 11:58:39 pm »

well maybe hes a rich dumbass and making a versus cabinet

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #43 on:** August 14, 2002, 02:00:40 am »

what should i use to glue the panel art..

i am doin the panel with ply wood...

which would be best..anyone done before..please reply...i am thinking any glue..but other advise is always cool>

twist · « **Reply #44 on:** August 14, 2002, 07:32:25 am »

You might try some super glue (I think there is one called "Super Jet"). Incredibly strong, and pretty fast drying.

rampy · « **Reply #45 on:** August 14, 2002, 08:26:10 am »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on August 14, 2002, 02:00:40 am

what should i use to glue the panel art..

i am doin the panel with ply wood...

which would be best..anyone done before..please reply...i am thinking any glue..but other advise is always cool>

Granted I haven't done this before, and don't really know... but my guess that for applying a control panel overlay you use contact cement... YMMV .. although if you are using a paper overlay, that might be overkill/bad idea... *Shrug*

won't the holes for the buttons et al hold it down enough when sandwiched between lexan?

rampy

hyiu · « **Reply #46 on:** August 14, 2002, 02:24:42 pm »

I have lexan and plywood and artwork in between...
no need to glue it... it will not move....

but for the lexan... on the edges, I do have 3-4 more screws and nuts to secure the lexan to the plywood.....

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #47 on:** August 14, 2002, 09:48:32 pm »

really

..

i am trying without any glue first(cant afford to mess anything up)..i would have some screw over the plexi too..so shouldn't be a problem..thanks everyone for tips and tricks

neuromancer · « **Reply #48 on:** August 15, 2002, 12:05:21 pm »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on August 14, 2002, 09:48:32 pm

really ..

i am trying without any glue first(cant afford to mess anything up)..i would have some screw over the plexi too..so shouldn't be a problem..thanks everyone for tips and tricks

If you are using plexi, there's no reason to do anything with the artwork. In other cases, a person would do well to consider rubber cement: holds well and is not permanent.

Bob

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #49 on:** August 15, 2002, 12:32:06 pm »

yeah..i kinda did with out any glue..came out okay..still not complete...but thanks

AlanS17 · « **Reply #50 on:** August 15, 2002, 12:34:52 pm »

I have a Killer Instinct machine and even from the factory they don't use glue. They just sandwich the overlay with lexan and screws.

Chris · « **Reply #51 on:** August 23, 2002, 04:30:14 pm »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on August 14, 2002, 02:00:40 am

what should i use to glue the panel art..

i am doin the panel with ply wood...

which would be best..anyone done before..please reply...i am thinking any glue..but other advise is always cool>

I got a can of spray adhesive at Wal-Mart... it dries clear, and with practice you can get anything from a light tack to a strong hold. Whatever you do, though, spray outside! That stuff gets everywhere!

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #52 on:** August 23, 2002, 07:21:37 pm »

i know

i messed up the carpet a little using spray glue thing.

just spots.

anyhoos..i got some work done lately,still need to laminate sides and install bootleg molding..

here is pic.

Jakobud · « **Reply #53 on:** August 25, 2002, 03:03:24 am »

First of all, I think it's funny that you guys are getting all made a Kinkos for supposedly printing the stuff at the wrong size and stuff. Did you even check it when you picked it up before driving home?

Also, for my marquee, I had kinkos print on this 'light-box' stuff. It's sort of like a velum / film that is translucent and PERFECT for marquees.

Jakobud

rampy · « **Reply #54 on:** August 25, 2002, 01:29:11 pm »

Quote from: Jakobud on August 25, 2002, 03:03:24 am

First of all, I think it's funny that you guys are getting all made a Kinkos for supposedly printing the stuff at the wrong size and stuff. Did you even check it when you picked it up before driving home?

Also, for my marquee, I had kinkos print on this 'light-box' stuff. It's sort of like a velum / film that is translucent and PERFECT for marquees.

Jakobud

*cough* pics??? I've been interested in seeing a marquee done in light-box (or backprint paper) so drop a link if you get chance =)

Thanks!

Rampy

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #55 on:** August 25, 2002, 01:53:54 pm »

no..i did not mesure before i left

...after i pay like $25 i expect them to get i right..besides when i gave them the actual image i resized it.....i am still not happy..see the borders..thats paint.i wanted the whole thing to cover up with the art.

anyways it look okay..maybe next time they would do it better.

arcadeshopper · « **Reply #56 on:** September 02, 2002, 12:09:59 am »

Do you have a better design that doesn't require 7 feet of floorspace? I based my cabinet directly off the simpsons cabinet since that had the smallest functional 4 player layout. And the spinner/trackball setup works great..

The layout is quite comfortable actually.. I never have any issues with the corners.. I guess you like to slam yourself against the cabinet?

Gregory McGill
www.arcadeshopper.com

Quote from: SirPoonga on August 13, 2002, 12:39:48 am

Too bad his cp design sucks. I wouldn't want to be 3rd or 4th player with a corner in my stomache.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #57 on:** September 02, 2002, 01:27:11 am »

dude...didnt you rip someone off over here..

he sent you money and he never got him back anything?

not trying to start somethin but wanted to know what happend?

arcadeshopper · « **Reply #58 on:** September 02, 2002, 02:06:09 am »

Explain to me how "dude didn't you rip someone off" isn't trying to start something.

I'm not sure what your talking about, however if someone has a problem posting publically about it before attempting to resolve it with me directly is not the way to resolve anything.

Gregory McGill
www.arcadeshopper.com

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #59 on:** September 02, 2002, 02:50:56 am »

yeah..the guy with the marque..he claims he sent money and got nothing back..

then just micheal suggested that he should contact police....

sorry if i made you feel any bad but you cabs look really cool.

arcadeshopper · « **Reply #60 on:** September 02, 2002, 03:31:34 am »

My customer and I are in communication. There's a hold up at my printers where the marquee is being manufactured. He's been informed of that..

If he felt "ripped off" I'm sure he would tell me before posting it publicly.. And since he hasn't said that to me. Or asked for his money back.

I wouldn't think that there'd be any reason to contact the police. Perhaps your privy to some thing that I'm not. Please let him know that he can contact me any time..

And please feel free to email me direct rather than drag things out in the public that are already being handled by the people involved.

Gregory McGill
www.arcadeshopper.com

Quote from: SNAAAKE on September 02, 2002, 02:50:56 am

yeah..the guy with the marque..he claims he sent money and got nothing back..

then just micheal suggested that he should contact police....

sorry if i made you feel any bad but you cabs look really cool.

phantompower · « **Reply #61 on:** September 02, 2002, 10:41:19 pm »

Hey Hey Hey! That layout looks familiar

Just wanted to say nice job.

Good info on the printing. I had some issues when I created the original CP art with M. Bison in the background. You did a nice job with the fighters in the front. I really had to work to get the M. Bison looking decent.

Chuck

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #62 on:** September 02, 2002, 11:22:21 pm »

CHUCK,

i am supposed to send you pics first..when i am done with the cab 100%,i will make sure i send you first.I was the guy bothering your on how and where to print and stuff.

ya know the annyoing kid wanted to know everything

i got the bison from some site because there was no way to take out just bison from your art.but the idea comes from you control panel of course. also instead of me bothering you again,will you post about how you have swapable panels.i want my panel to be like swapable so i can take it off whenever i want and take it over friends and stuff.i know there is panel clamps for happ but i dont wanna place another order just for those clamp....what method DO YOU USE.

also anyone has any info on swapable panels..please post....

its really annyoing when you screw the panel with the cab forever and cant take it out to a friend or somethin

phantompower · « **Reply #63 on:** September 02, 2002, 11:35:48 pm »

SNAAAAKE,

You did some fine work. I am glad you found the original Bison art. I lost all of my original Photoshop stuff so I couldn't give you the orig unfortunately.

Swappable panels are a great concept...and even better for someone with electrical experience. What I did was install bolts inside the box of each panel. When one was installed, the bolts would go through the base of the CP box and into the surface of the cabinet.

When I want to switch, I lift the CP surface (with the hinges I installed), unscrew the bolts, make the CP switch, install the bolts again. Voila

For someone with electrical expertise, they can make much slicker the method of swapping out the electronics. I use Molex connectors, but for the longest time, it was manual...and ugly.

Hope this helps. Let me know.

I am currently in the middle of construction of MameStation II (or some other name not yet thought of)...with new artwork.

I will keep you all posted and make a site when I am done.

Talk to you soon.
Chuck

cdbrown · « **Reply #64 on:** September 02, 2002, 11:53:16 pm »

SNAAAKE,

I have seen a site (can't remember just at the moment - sorry

) which uses rollers and rails just like typically on drawers. The rollers are on the panels and the rails are inside the cab. Latches are used to keep the panel from sliding forward. But you could always just use 3 latches - 1 on the front and 1 on the sides - that should keep it in place. Could just try window latches that you get from a hardware store thenyou don't have to worry about ordering from Happs.

Hope this helps
-cdbrown

phantompower · « **Reply #65 on:** September 02, 2002, 11:55:10 pm »

Oh...forgot...I also tried the window latches.

Functionally they work, but, where I had them, they were unsightly.

Just a comment.

Whoever has ideas, please post pictures if you have them.

Maybe we should start a new thread. This is a valuable topic.
Chuck

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #66 on:** September 03, 2002, 12:02:20 am »

yes....i will be trying some stuff from home depot..maybe find some way on my own then post it here..this problem is more annyoing then anything ever...i had horrible experience with my first panel..i screwed it to the cab and cant take it anywhere.now want the thing to be done correctly..

AGAIN,anyone with any better idea with any pics..please please reply

cheers

cdbrown · « **Reply #67 on:** September 03, 2002, 12:22:53 am »

Found a link http://www.cybertechdesign.net/mameroom/ultimatearcadeII/day10.htm. It's for the Ultimate Arcade II - very simple but not sure if it would be secure enough. Nice idea to be able to easily slide each of the panels into place then secure them.

Cheers
-cdbrown

phantompower · « **Reply #68 on:** September 03, 2002, 12:27:22 am »

Good eye cdbrown.

That is the same plans I am using to build my new cabinet.

He did a nice job with the layout. I had to pull that info into AutoCad and make a run at it for myself.

Espeically with my needs for multiple CPs.

Chuck

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #69 on:** September 03, 2002, 12:35:21 am »

hmm...seems greatly complicated and i have no clue on what the guy on this site is talkin about?

seriouslly....how am supposed to keep the panel stable enough with cab so it dont come off...

ya know the ABUSE of gaming

.

maybe i am being a dumbass here but someone want the explain little bit more.

also,anyone ever used happ panel clamps.they might be for this kind of problem.

cdbrown · « **Reply #70 on:** September 03, 2002, 12:39:28 am »

I've have been trying to work out the easiet method of swapping (apart from 1up's rotating panel) and that method stuck in my mind. Had some time to look through most of the examples a while ago. Unfortunately the removable control panel search option in the examples page doesn't return any cabs and I have also noticed that the site that have swappable panels don't provide much, if any, details on how they did it.

I will probably use the drawer method as I like the idea of sliding it in and I wouldn't have to worry about holding the panel up while I connect the hot swap wires in the back (as long as the rails are level that is). The only thing I still need to work out is the gap at the front. UAII has a small hinged door which hides the rails and the keyboard, I won't be having that so I am still working out a different way so that when a panel is on everything is sealed. Probably not the best explaination of what I'm trying to do.

Cheers
-cdbrown

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #71 on:** September 03, 2002, 12:43:33 am »

cdbrown..

are you planing any time soon.if so then i will be waiting to figure out how..as soon as you figure a solid way then make sure you post(explain more).i wanna wait a few day before i install my panel.so make sure you post..

thanks

cdbrown · « **Reply #72 on:** September 03, 2002, 01:06:13 am »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on September 03, 2002, 12:43:33 am

cdbrown..

are you planing any time soon.if so then i will be waiting to figure out how..as soon as you figure a solid way then make sure you post(explain more).i wanna wait a few day before i install my panel.so make sure you post..

thanks

No worries SNAAAKE,

Just looking around at some hardware stores to see if I can find a picture of the type of latch I'm talking about. They are quite common on some of the older windows here in Australia. Just have to find a picture of it to post.

I'll try to explain in the mean time (but don't expect it to make too much sense)

A small clip will be attached to the underside of the cp directly in line with the latches inside the cab when in place. The latches are turned which rotates the latch over the the clip.

Ahah, found it
http://hardware.pacx.com.au/Details.asp?ProductCode=HJB0000&Manufacturer_Code=HJB0000&Supplier_Code=S1001. That's the type of latch I'm talking about. Very strong and doesn't allow movement in any direction.

Cheers
-cdbrown

rampy · « **Reply #73 on:** September 03, 2002, 11:34:56 am »

it would be cool if this was a separate thread, as it's an interseting digression from the artwork discussion...

I'm currently dealling with simliar issues, and i'm sure the rest of the board has good feedback on the issue.

rampy

Rahzel · « **Reply #74 on:** September 05, 2002, 03:25:21 am »

Hey Gregory, I'm the one who is getting the marquee printed form you. Sorry I didn't clear it up with the people on the board. After e-mailing you for about 2-3 weeks and no reply (because you were on vacation) I got worried and posted on here to ask if anyone has done business with you. Then like a week later I figured you weren't going to respond so I posted again that I'll probably never see that marquee. But that same day you e-mailed me back so it's all good.
GREGORY MCGILL ISN'T A SCAMMER! :D

Hey phantompower whats up man? I havn't seen you in a while! The marquee that Gregory is printing for me is actually that one you designed (Marvel vs. Capcom) and I just pimped it out a little bit :D

I'll post some final pics of my cab when its done

Rahzel · « **Reply #75 on:** September 05, 2002, 03:29:02 am »

Quote from: SNAAAKE on September 03, 2002, 12:35:21 am

also,anyone ever used happ panel clamps.they might be for this kind of problem.

Yea SNAAAAAAAKE I got 2 of those clamps from happs to hold my control panel down and they work real good. They also kinda make the cab look more professional since most of the real ones have them and a monkey can install them too!

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #76 on:** September 05, 2002, 03:40:52 am »

Quote

Quote
Quote from: Rahzel on September 05, 2002, 03:25:21 am
GREGORY MCGILL ISN'T A SCAMMER!
==========================================
i kinda already knew that somethin else was goin on.He is selling professional cabs on ebay.he would try such thing(no one would)
.sorry mcgill
=========================================
Quote from: Rahzel on September 05, 2002, 03:25:21 am

Hey phantompower whats up man? I havn't seen you in a while! The marquee that Gregory is printing for me is actually that one you designed (Marvel vs. Capcom) and I just pimped it out a little bit

I'll post some final pics of my cab when its done
==========================================

rahzel,

you have anything look like mamestation,POST POST POST pic(anything look similer is very tempting ).who cares what stage you are in now.do it.also you pimped the marque right.let us see.

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #77 on:** September 05, 2002, 03:46:38 am »

Quote

*cough* pics??? I've been interested in seeing a marquee done in light-box (or backprint paper) so drop a link if you get chance =)

Thanks!

Rampy

Rampy,
i did get a chance to get pic.my marque is printed on high gloss photo paper,look okay but not recomended because its too thick and marque did not come out very very bright.I'd say go with matt paper.its the cheapest and should look great.there was preview at kinkos and looked cool.but you can go photo paper too.its cool

i got pic of back lit and without backlit.

Rahzel · « **Reply #78 on:** September 05, 2002, 04:40:08 am »

I've been wanting to get pics of my cab up for like a year now but I havn't gotten a digital camera yet. I'm thinking of buying a good one from staples or something and then just taking it back after I get some pics taken, cuz they let u try anything you buy for 10 days (cuz i'm broke ass right now). Or maybe I could sell my cab to buy a digital camera then I could take pics of....wait a minute :/

rampy · « **Reply #79 on:** September 05, 2002, 08:48:52 am »

Quote from: Rahzel on September 05, 2002, 04:40:08 am

I've been wanting to get pics of my cab up for like a year now but I havn't gotten a digital camera yet. I'm thinking of buying a good one from staples or something and then just taking it back after I get some pics taken, cuz they let u try anything you buy for 10 days (cuz i'm broke ass right now). Or maybe I could sell my cab to buy a digital camera then I could take pics of....wait a minute :/

why not just take normal (film) pictures and have them developed at a place that offers the kodak (or simliar) online prints instead of a 2nd set... or puts the pics on floppy/cd ... I know CVS processing does this. even if you don't have a camera you could get a generic disposable for like 5 beans...

Just a thought... it's a more honest approach, although I empathize with the being broke issue... =( Hard to order parts from Happ if you have mothballs in the wallet/bank account.

rampy

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #80 on:** September 05, 2002, 02:17:36 pm »

WORK WORK WORK...

find jobs..any and every job you can.


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