U-HID / MAME Question RE: Powering / using the original cabinet controls?

[Plashdaddy]

Hi all, please forgive what may be a stupid question from beginner, I'd really appreciate your expert advice. I've owned a Chase H.Q. cabinet for 25 years. About 15 years ago, the PCB failed in it, and despite a long time searching for some one who could repair it, I came up dry. About 15 years ago I started (what ended up a half-a**** job) of converting it to a PC based machine, I bought a U-HID Nano (which by reading BadMouth's 'Beginners start here' will have insufficient ports, thank you for that advice) and an Arcade-VGA adapter, which almost ended in tears, and I was a fool to attempt that, and then life got in the way and I put it on the backburner.

So, in reading the sticky I see that, for example, the steering wheel is of the 360 Spinner type, with four terminal points, one of which is '5V' Does this mean if I use a PC for Mame and the interface, that the spinner will still require a seperate power source to generate 5V to operate properly? Will all the switches / pedals also require a 5V supply?

I should also add that I just want to run Chase H.Q. on it, by reading the sticky that alone may be beyond my capabilities, but the cabinet has a great sentimental value to me and I truly appreciate any advice offered, thank you all.

[PL1]

So, in reading the sticky I see that, for example, the steering wheel is of the 360 Spinner type, with four terminal points, one of which is '5V' Does this mean if I use a PC for Mame and the interface, that the spinner will still require a seperate power source to generate 5V to operate properly?

You can use the U-HID Nano for the steering wheel optical (mouse) encoder -- one pin for ground (blue), one pin for 5v (orange), and 2 pins for the quadrature waveform data lines. (yellow)



The other five pins can be used for other inputs such as admin buttons if you want to navigate through a Front End program.

Use an inexpensive second encoder for the other inputs -- an Arduino would be great for this . . . or an IPac if you're not comfortable with a little soldering and firmware loading.

If you use more than one encoder, avoid having both of them being seen as gamepads so you don't run into the Windows device renumbering problem.   

Will all the switches / pedals also require a 5V supply?

Microswitch controls do not need a separate 5v supply.  The encoder board powers the input port.

There are several versions of the cab that you can select from MAME's dipswitch menu.

If you have analog pedal(s) with potentiometers (used in the Chase H.Q. deluxe/cockpit cabs IIRC), you will need 5v, wiper (center tab), and ground for the potentiometer.
https://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/Analog_Encoders#How_a_potentiometer_provides_the_voltage_for_an_analog_encoder_to_measure

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Exactly what controls does your cab have?

    Optical:
Steering wheel (confirmed in your third picture)

    Microswitch:
Gas
Brake (Does your cab have a separate brake pedal/switch?)
Turbo
Shifter (you probably need to modify a MAME config file to remove the default latching behavior)
Start
Coin 1
Coin 2 (wire in parallel with Coin 1 if you need one less input)

The other MAME inputs shouldn't be needed for normal gameplay.


Scott
EDIT:  Forgot to mention that if you want to control the police lights, you'll also need a controller like the PAC Drive and solid state relays.

[Plashdaddy]

Hi Scott!
Thank you for your detailed and considered reply, it is an immense help.

I don't mind purchasing a U-HID to replace the Nano, from what you've outlined that may be the simplest way for a beginner like me to go.

The cabinet itself started life as a 3D Continental Circuit which has had a Chase H.Q. conversion kit, including side art stickers put over the Continental Circuit ones. It does have a separate brake pedal, but no flashing lights. I will check if the pedals are potentiometer type, but from memory they're micro switches too.

In summary, it sounds like what I need (if the pedals ARE only microswitches) If I've missed anything, or understood it wrong, please let me know.

1) U-HID
2) PC for running Mame
3) Monitor
4) Heap of wire.

Just knowing now that the '5V' power for everything is supplied via the U-HID from the PC is fantastic, and I'm brave enought to think I can make this work now. Again, I really appreciate the time you've taken to answer my questions Scott, thank you.

[PL1]

Glad to assist.   

I don't mind purchasing a U-HID to replace the Nano, from what you've outlined that may be the simplest way for a beginner like me to go.

A full-size U-HID is a bit expensive, but you'll be able to hook up all of the controls with one encoder.

In addition to the wire, you may want either some Dupont jumpers and euro-style terminals or Dupont ratchet crimpers and a Dupont pin and housing kit.

It does have a separate brake pedal, but no flashing lights.

You can add lights if you want.   

From the specs in this listing for 3" beacons, the LED should draw about 16mA @5v (3 AA batteries) plus whatever the motor draws.
- Connect the PAC Drive to the battery compartment wires -- + wires to 5v and - wires to the PAC Drive ports,
https://www.amazon.com/Rotating-Flashing-Beacon-Warning-Emergency/dp/B0D5WW795V/?th=1



If those lights are too small, you could step up to 7" models like these.
- They run on 120v, so you'll need to use a solid state relay controlled by the PAC Drive to switch them on/off.
- Disassemble the switch on the cord.  Leave the uncut Neutral wire as is.  Connect the cut Hot wire ends to the common (COM) and Normally Open (NO) terminals of the relay.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhode-Island-Novelty-Police-Beacon/dp/B0011CZV5A/
https://www.amazon.com/Rhode-Island-Novelty-Police-Beacon/dp/B002UUQQTW/


Scott

[Plashdaddy]

Glad to assist.   

I don't mind purchasing a U-HID to replace the Nano, from what you've outlined that may be the simplest way for a beginner like me to go.

A full-size U-HID is a bit expensive, but you'll be able to hook up all of the controls with one encoder.

In addition to the wire, you may want either some Dupont jumpers and euro-style terminals or Dupont ratchet crimpers and a Dupont pin and housing kit.

It does have a separate brake pedal, but no flashing lights.

You can add lights if you want.   

From the specs in this listing for 3" beacons, the LED should draw about 16mA @5v (3 AA batteries) plus whatever the motor draws.
- Connect the PAC Drive to the battery compartment wires -- + wires to 5v and - wires to the PAC Drive ports,
https://www.amazon.com/Rotating-Flashing-Beacon-Warning-Emergency/dp/B0D5WW795V/?th=1



If those lights are too small, you could step up to 7" models like these.
- They run on 120v, so you'll need to use a solid state relay controlled by the PAC Drive to switch them on/off.
- Disassemble the switch on the cord.  Leave the uncut Neutral wire as is.  Connect the cut Hot wire ends to the common (COM) and Normally Open (NO) terminals of the relay.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhode-Island-Novelty-Police-Beacon/dp/B0011CZV5A/
https://www.amazon.com/Rhode-Island-Novelty-Police-Beacon/dp/B002UUQQTW/


Scott

Hi Scott! I received my UHID and a harness from Ultimarc in the mail today. I ordered it last Saturday, and it got to me in Australia on Thursday, thought that was pretty good.
Thank you again for your advice, I'll post some pics when (if  ) I get it happening.