Its there a way to use touchtunes hardware with windows?

[abispac]

So let me explain. Last time i had a touchtunes jukebox, it was a wallmounted juke with some nice led lights that would flash nicely and the software was still active, but it only had like old songs in it. So knowing that touchtunes its very very picky, I installed my own PC with touch if I remember correctly, but I could not found a way to make the led lightsor the amp to work with windows, so I did not had any light show or amp service. Now I found a new deal on market place, and I've always wanted to have one of this jukes, but I'm afraid the same thing would happen. So I was wondering if anyone here knows a way to have a working light show and amp with windows installed. Thanks for your help.

[lilshawn]

So let me explain. Last time i had a touchtunes jukebox, it was a wallmounted juke with some nice led lights that would flash nicely and the software was still active, but it only had like old songs in it. So knowing that touchtunes its very very picky, I installed my own PC with touch if I remember correctly, but I could not found a way to make the led lightsor the amp to work with windows, so I did not had any light show or amp service. Now I found a new deal on market place, and I've always wanted to have one of this jukes, but I'm afraid the same thing would happen. So I was wondering if anyone here knows a way to have a working light show and amp with windows installed. Thanks for your help.

unfortunately that particular jukebox pictured in your post (the angelina) is very highly integrated and you can't separate the parts out.

The computer, the amps, and the IO board is plugged onto a backplane board though multi-pin DIN 41612 and/or IEC 60603-2 connectors to connect power/audio/data/inputs/outputs and whatnot of the individual components to each other.

the amps need a signal from the IO board to power on. this is also sent through the backplane,  so if you don't have the touchtunes software running to initialize the IO board, you will never have audio, since the audio is fed out of the computer though the backplane board to the IO board, then out of the IO board through the backplane to the amps.

even if you don't use the amps, you have no way of getting audio out of the computer since the audio flows out off the computer through the backplane. you'd have to peel the computer case apart and tap audio out of the computer directly.

you won't have lightshow because it's also handled by the IO board, the IO board has an LED controller built onto it that sends the signals out to the led strips in the back of the machine, and if you don't have the software to initialize the IO board, you wont get a lightshow.

the IO board connects to the computer through a "USB" connection though the backplane and is what handles the lightshow on the front and back of the machine and switching of the signal to tell the amps to power on... and does the audio conversion needed to feed into the amps.

so unfortunately since the IO handles basically...everything... not being able to initialize it means you can't do anything with the jukebox if you change the software since there is going to be zero support though windows for it since it was designed for linux (which is what the touchtunes OS is based on.)

most of this stuff can be bypassed and made to work in a virtuo or ovation wall boxes and all the floor models since the computers and stuff are all separate... you can even easily fake the signal from the IO board to turn on the amps to use your own audio source or computer in these machines.

you could MAYBE modify the playdium walbox if you are really good with electronics... but definitely not the angelina since those 2 machines devices are so integrated, it's almost impossible to separate...you'd have to gut the angelina of everything but the monitor/touchscreen and put all your own stuff in there.

[lilshawn]

I would also be highly suspect of where that jukebox came from, especially being sold on the faceballs marketplace.

That is one of the newest jukeboxes touchtunes has, it's unlikely an operator is just getting rid of it since there is nothing "newer" for anyone to replace it with. (which would be one of the only real reason for an operator to part with it) and also, since to get one of those from touchtunes right now will run you regular price of $6264 plus taxes and shipping.

just sayin' someone could come knocking on your door if you have it.

[abispac]

I would also be highly suspect of where that jukebox came from, especially being sold on the faceballs marketplace.

That is one of the newest jukeboxes touchtunes has, it's unlikely an operator is just getting rid of it since there is nothing "newer" for anyone to replace it with. (which would be one of the only real reason for an operator to part with it) and also, since to get one of those from touchtunes right now will run you regular price of $6264 plus taxes and shipping.

just sayin' someone could come knocking on your door if you have it.

Its a bummer that basically its a cabinet with a working monitor and perhaps working bill aceptor, maybe the top display can be usable if its just a regular display like the monitor? if not, maybe one can be fitted. My suspichius are this was a place owner that didn't returned the juke to its owner and now its trying to make some money, I really wont mind paying 300 bucks for the cabinet with monitor, I can add my own lights and amp, with computer of course.  I really wont mind hocking it up to the internet and have the real owner pick it up as well. But I really doubt that's gonna happen. Do you think I could make my money back selling the inner parts?

[Mike A]

If you think it is stolen, you should not buy it.

[abispac]

If you think it is stolen, you should not buy it.

Well someone is gonna buy it, so I don't think me not buying it would make any difference, like I said I wouldn't mind connecting it to the internet and had the real owner pick it up, since ill have proof of the guy who sold it to me, so no biggie, then if no one shows up or claims it, ill just have a nice cab with some parts to sell.

[lilshawn]

I wouldn't mind connecting it to the internet and had the real owner pick it up, since ill have proof of the guy who sold it to me

uhmm... i don't think thats how that works. Possession of stolen property is a charge that results from having property knowingly obtained through crime in your control. It is not relevant whether you were the one who stole the property, but simply whether it is in your possession and you knew it was stolen.

I mean, it's your money, you can do what you like. 300 bucks is not a going rate for a jukebox like that, and i'm sure someone is going to jail over it.

I would certainly pay 300 bucks to find out my juke was being sold on me.

[Mike A]

He is going to buy it.

Everything he does is shady.

[lilshawn]

 

you win some, you lose some. sometimes you lose more than you bargained for.

[abispac]

He is going to buy it.

Everything he does is shady.

[abispac]

you win some, you lose some. sometimes you lose more than you bargained for.

I really don't like that guy mikea, he is the type of guy that has double moral. And the type of guy that has nothing good to say and he says it anyway.
i do appreciate your great knowledge and sharing it here.
Just for the records, I don't live in the states, we don't have touchtunes hereeither , so we don't know if this was obtained at a sale or where it comes from. It might be stolen, and the way I see it, Ill make my best to find the owner and get my money back, or if no one claims it, ill just use the cabinet to build my own juke. Not really much to do. Thanks for your help.

[abispac]

Looks good, and the good thing is, if you get rid of the io board you can actually install a cheap led controller board and it will take care of all the RGB leds, it does need a separate led control for the front white bezel, but they all look good. Now I have to play with the bill acceptor to see if I can get them to work. Im still not familiar with Mdb bill acceptors. Im not using amplifier to loose some weight, instead ill use Bluetooth for audio.

[lilshawn]

bill acceptors are coded for a cashcode type serial interface for the MDB protocol. you would need some kind of signal convertor to decode the datastream to find out what bill was inserted.

you will also need to send a signal to enable the acceptor to be able to accept bills... otherwise you need to switch it over to stand alone mode.

[abispac]

bill acceptors are coded for a cashcode type serial interface for the MDB protocol. you would need some kind of signal convertor to decode the datastream to find out what bill was inserted.

you will also need to send a signal to enable the acceptor to be able to accept bills... otherwise you need to switch it over to stand alone mode.

Can this be reprogrammed and converted to pulse?I wont mind buying the programer but if they cant be converted to pulse  ain't gonna be much help.  If not ill probably just sell them. In fact I'm gonna sell all the inner parts as I don't have a use for them. I was gonna keep the power source but it wont trow any power either, so I guess the io board manages it to.

[abispac]

Im not an electronics genius but i can sort stuff out. So this is my ghetto diagram on how to use the Angelina power source in order to use power for less, bill acceptors or anything else.
So by tampering with the power supply I was able to see that it has a cable to turn the power supply on or off, by bridgin the ground on that cable with another ground, I was able to get power on the ,5,12 and 24 v line, icanalso get 110v volts out, ill post pictures later on. I wonder if the amps can be tampered this easy. I'ma start opening one and see.

[abispac]

Amps looked easy to tamper too, ima take them to a friend of mine that is an expert on audio, I bet is the same ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, one cable to be able to turn them on. The amp has 3 cable moles, one for power with 2 cables, another for the speakers, and the main cable to get audio in, and as I imagine some of those cables will enable the amp to work, will see.

[lilshawn]

there are PDF's available for download on the amp makers website. (search ICEpower 125ASX2 datasheet) it comes complete with pinouts of the headers and everything you need to know about how to use them. but in this case, you would just lift out the enable wire out of the harness (P102-2) and leave it floating... that enables the amp.

[abispac]

there are PDF's available for download on the amp makers website. (search ICEpower 125ASX2 datasheet) it comes complete with pinouts of the headers and everything you need to know about how to use them. but in this case, you would just lift out the enable wire out of the harness (P102-2) and leave it floating... that enables the amp.

I got the feeling you already know the secrets to get things working hahaha, thanks for your help. Ill take a look to see if I can get them to work, do you know if the validaotrs can get reprogrammed? i don't mind buying the programer. But if they cant be converted to pulse, I have no use for them.

[lilshawn]

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them (like more than 20)... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps

[abispac]

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps

  Much appreciated, thanks. Ill take a look on the amps first, make sure they work, and then ill mess with the bill acceptor.  Have a nice easter.

[abispac]

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them (like more than 20)... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps

Can I bother you 1 more time today please, I started modifying the bill acceptors, all went smoothly I got the cables off the connector so I can modify them for pulse, but I could not find a pinout for them, but based on the manual I imagine 1 and 2 are for the credits, just as any regular arcade right? a bill is inserted and the acceptor will send x mount of pulses in those cables right? and pin 3 and 20 are gonna be my power supply pins, since the acceptor is 24v, it was previously set on pin16 and 23 but since I ain't using mdb anymore I should use the 24v ones right? and I will have an extra cable that was at pin 14, but since I don't use mdb I don't have a use for it, I can just leave it along correct? Thanks for your help.
In the mean time, I'm also adding my ghetto amp diagram, thanks to Lilshawn for the advice to cut the number 2 cable so the amp can be enable, i traked the other cables and i came up with this, I had not tested this yet as i need to buy cables to hook everything up together with the original power source.

[lilshawn]

pin 1 and 2 is your credit line. most games and machines running pulse mode, just get the credit line switched to ground to detect the pulse...so you'd wire pin 1 (credit relay common) to ground or negative in your system and pin 2 (Credit relay NO) to the credit line.

if your system requires the line to go high for a credit issued, you'd wire pin 1 (credit relay common) to your positive rail (5v or whatever...) and pin 2 (Credit relay NO) to the credit line.

pin 3 and 20 is 24v AC input (it runs through a bridge rectifier anyway so honestly i don't think it matters if it's AC or DC there.)
pin 16 and 23 is UP TO 34v DC input. i think it might work down to 12v? 14v? don't quote me. but it does run 24v DC just fine there.

what juke software did you end up running on there? i don't recognise it at all.

[abispac]

For testing purposes i used etouch, but I'm going to use rockbe jukebox, has a cool paid feature that it will download any missing songs from youtube.
Thanks for all your help.
I started to think that maybe I could used the original computer if I can get it to boot windows and find some drivers. its a crazy idea that I'm going to test today.
As it came to me yesterday to use the long PCB in order to connect everything minus the IO board together, as the power brick will be working directly, so everything  should have power. Including the computer, and the computer mother board has a 64gb m drive I can swap maybe. If I have problems with the bios, I do have a bios programmer handy, perhaps I can find a compatible bios that would work, also the motherboard has missing power button and missing front pannel pins I can use, I hope I can even upgrade the ram to 16gb. Will see today as I have to work today and I doubt I'm gonna be to busy(I work from home) ill post results later on, I just need a little solder paste and put a bridge on the powersource to make everything work.
I know the top visualizer is gonna be hard to use, as I already tested it and couldn'tt find any drivers for it, it does display image from the dvi port, but the resolution is so small, even the mouse pointer is to big for it, so maybe I could use it just for the light. Its in reality an 8by64 matrix led display. Anyway ill keep posting this stuff.
EDIT: I was correct, adding a simple cable bridge on the pinouts for the power source on the IO board connections, would allow the power brick to work, givingpower to the PC and everything else. Allowing the computer to boot. But the bios is protected by a password, I will have to either find the password or replace the bios for another one without a password. I still don't test if it would boot windows. Will see, as if it boots it, I wont need to modify the bios. I also traced the amplifier input pinouts to the IO board connections, so I'm guessing those are the only extra cables I would need. If I ever make the computer to use windows, I wont even bother tapping it to find the audio outs, I will use an USB audio card instead.Everything is coming together nicely, I'm only hope for 2 important things so I font have to buy to much stuff. 1  that the amps work fine as is, and 2 that the computer would work with windows without much trouble.

[lilshawn]

yeah it's a regular old computer. it'll run whatever OS you put on there. drivers might be interesting to find. you might have to pick and choose generic driver sets for like the chipset and whatnot.

that's all the led display at the top is... a secondary monitor with a low resolution. all it does is display an EQ in various colors.

i'm not sure what the password for the angelina bios is. i know the passwords for all the other jukes, but not that one (they are all different) i havent had to get in there on any of the ones we have. it would be like "juke[YEAR]" i'm not sure what year the angelina came out.... maybe 2019? try a bunch of years, you wont get locked out.

[abispac]

Well, it runs windows 11 on mbr mode with no problems not missing to many driver, so hopefully ill find them. Runs of the m driver so perhaps ill change it for a bigger newer one.

[abispac]

I installed windows 11 and found some compatible drivers, all looks good, but I still debating on whether to use that existing 64gb m drive or to replace it with a 1tb drive I have on my work PC, as my work PC really does no use all that much space. I tried juke(year) for the password to see if I could change settings in order to use uefi instead of mbr, but I had no luck , I tried from 1997 to 2025, just in case  to a no good, and I've seen this bios are very picky to read via a USB programmer, so I guess ill stay away from it in order to not screw things up.

So far so good. Im happy with the results, now I'm transferring files in order to test the whole thing live.

[abispac]

So the computer works, and it works fine, but im still debating on wheter i should keep it or not since having the bios locked, it wont give me to many options to modify it in order to save me from trouble in the future. One of them being that the computer wont shut down. And thats important, as i dont want to leave the juke on all the time. Maybe on linux it was not a big  deal to turn the juke on and off of the switch directly, but we all know windows is more picky than that, especially if it has a sata harddrive. Now the second issue is (im getting old and behind on harddrive technology) that even though the computer has a m2 compatible connector, it wont take m2 drives, i tried to use my personal one, and it wont detect it. I beleive its an m2 sata connector? as the drive it has right now its an ssd sata drive, that it looks like an m2, but after looking in google i found out its a sata drive, just like the one at the bottom on the following picture, so to not complicate things more, ill just get me a bigger sata drive, te hardrive with sata cables i mean. So im gonna keep it simple. Also it looks like this  type of bios can be decrypted to get the password, so ima try that in order to have acces to the bios to see if it can be modified so the computer can shut down.So far thats all i got left, if icant make the computer shut down, ill just repurpose it for a recalbox arcade console and sticka mini pc in the juke that would support m2 drive. All depends if i can get the bios password cracked. I really would like to keep it original inside as it looks clean and nice even though it does have a space where the IO board was. Anyway, ill keep posting. To bad my  phone broke and i dont get another one till wesneday, that the reason i post ghetto drawings instead of pictures.

[abispac]

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them (like more than 20)... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps

So I scratched my head almost all night and I couldn't make the acceptors to work.
I followed all of your instructions but no pulses are detected.
Now I few years back, I did play with a pulse bill acceptor, by using a 5v Arduino relay, it was simple. 5v to the relay, ground to the relay, and the n.o. from the bill acceptor to the in of the relay. Also the ground for the acceptor was together with the relay ground. Doing that , I had the relay outputs to a keyboard encoder and all worked fine.
I've tried to follow the same here, but I get nothing everytime I inset a bill.
The relay won't detect the pulse.
Then I tried adding 5v to the input 1 on the bill acceptor to no good.
Tried different mseconds outputs but nothing seems to work.
I even set 20 pulses per dollar in hopes of seeing something but no go.
I even added the 5v to the n.o. output on the receptor but nothing.happened. At this point I'm not sure what else to do.
My goal is to send a signal to a keyboard encoder as I did in the past. Any advice will be surely appreciated. Thanks.

Edit:  I start to believe that this is a v6 mdb only? as all pulse acceptors are a/6 mine is v6-36f0m-usd4-t5 ?

[abispac]

I think im gonna try some new bill acceptors as these ones don't want to cooperate hahaha, in the meantime, I'm filling up the hard drive and on Friday ima purchase the software, rockbe jukebox. It plays local files, plus for a 5dlls a month feature, you can play missing songs of the internet. Jukebox-looking fly has heck, hopefully, ill have It fully working this month.
If anyone wants to provide advice on these bill acceptors or wants to buy them please let me know, I also can sell the IO board as well.

[mahkeymike]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

[abispac]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

[abispac]

Heres how it looks, almost ready.

[mahkeymike]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

never heard of it, and google pulls up nada on rockbe

[abispac]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

never heard of it, and google pulls up nada on rockbe

https://rockbeshop.com/ Its in spanish

[mahkeymike]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

never heard of it, and google pulls up nada on rockbe

https://rockbeshop.com/ Its in spanish

I kinda like freebox/etouch better. You should look into Zenpoint Digital Center.

[abispac]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

never heard of it, and google pulls up nada on rockbe

https://rockbeshop.com/ Its in spanish

I kinda like freebox/etouch better. You should look into Zenpoint Digital Center.

Etouch was nice for its time, but the tag in the music and videos made it a pain in the ass to configure, plus it always had bugs, always, the skin toll is not so user friendly and the commercial use was to expensive. Rockbe has what I need for the moment, Eazy to use and fair commercial use.

[lilshawn]

So I scratched my head almost all night and I couldn't make the acceptors to work.
I followed all of your instructions but no pulses are detected.
Now I few years back, I did play with a pulse bill acceptor, by using a 5v Arduino relay, it was simple. 5v to the relay, ground to the relay, and the n.o. from the bill acceptor to the in of the relay. Also the ground for the acceptor was together with the relay ground. Doing that , I had the relay outputs to a keyboard encoder and all worked fine.
I've tried to follow the same here, but I get nothing everytime I inset a bill.
The relay won't detect the pulse.
Then I tried adding 5v to the input 1 on the bill acceptor to no good.
Tried different mseconds outputs but nothing seems to work.
I even set 20 pulses per dollar in hopes of seeing something but no go.
I even added the 5v to the n.o. output on the receptor but nothing.happened. At this point I'm not sure what else to do.
My goal is to send a signal to a keyboard encoder as I did in the past. Any advice will be surely appreciated. Thanks.

Edit:  I start to believe that this is a v6 mdb only? as all pulse acceptors are a/6 mine is v6-36f0m-usd4-t5 ?

could be that the additional items on the circuit board required to run the acceptor to output in pulse mode have not been populated. i just looked at a revision "8" board from a newer acceptor that died and all the items related to  the pulse output part are not populated, but a revision "2.2" board from and old unit i have here that died, does... so i'm not sure when it changed. it's possible your board in your acceptor is new enough to not have the parts to output pulse, even though it can be switched to pulse.

[abispac]

So I scratched my head almost all night and I couldn't make the acceptors to work.
I followed all of your instructions but no pulses are detected.
Now I few years back, I did play with a pulse bill acceptor, by using a 5v Arduino relay, it was simple. 5v to the relay, ground to the relay, and the n.o. from the bill acceptor to the in of the relay. Also the ground for the acceptor was together with the relay ground. Doing that , I had the relay outputs to a keyboard encoder and all worked fine.
I've tried to follow the same here, but I get nothing everytime I inset a bill.
The relay won't detect the pulse.
Then I tried adding 5v to the input 1 on the bill acceptor to no good.
Tried different mseconds outputs but nothing seems to work.
I even set 20 pulses per dollar in hopes of seeing something but no go.
I even added the 5v to the n.o. output on the receptor but nothing.happened. At this point I'm not sure what else to do.
My goal is to send a signal to a keyboard encoder as I did in the past. Any advice will be surely appreciated. Thanks.

Edit:  I start to believe that this is a v6 mdb only? as all pulse acceptors are a/6 mine is v6-36f0m-usd4-t5 ?

could be that the additional items on the circuit board required to run the acceptor to output in pulse mode have not been populated. i just looked at a revision "8" board from a newer acceptor that died and all the items related to  the pulse output part are not populated, but a revision "2.2" board from and old unit i have here that died, does... so i'm not sure when it changed. it's possible your board in your acceptor is new enough to not have the parts to output pulse, even though it can be switched to pulse.

Mine looks like this, so I might still have hope?  The green means its the one that works right?

[lilshawn]

yeah, see that looks like it's the "proper" one... so by all rights, it should have what it needs.

unless they re-assigned the pins or something, but i don't think so. unless... i dunno. some are 1 and 2 and on some of the other brands/manufacturers it's like 1 and 14 or something like that. it's supposed to be all universal so you didn't have to swap cables and stuff... but it didn't end up that way sometimes.

[abispac]

yeah, see that looks like it's the "proper" one... so by all rights, it should have what it needs.

unless they re-assigned the pins or something, but i don't think so. unless... i dunno. some are 1 and 2 and on some of the other brands/manufacturers it's like 1 and 14 or something like that. it's supposed to be all universal so you didn't have to swap cables and stuff... but it didn't end up that way sometimes.

Thanks, ill look into that and post results for the future. Thank you kind.