Hey guys,
Long time reader/lurker, first time poster. I've resorted to this forum for a good amount of knowledge, so the group has been helpful throughout the project from existing post discussions. So thank you to those who help with the content
This is my Hydro Thunder "Trilogy" inspired racing multicab. I purchased it for a hundred bucks as a non-working unit and after some discussion with a few repair experts, the repair costs would have outweighed the price I could find a solid original working unit locally. So I've stored away the original components and will use them as backups/testers for when I get a stock Hydro Thunder down the line. I used as many parts I had on hand or laying around to help keep costs down. Luckily, I only had to purchase maybe 25% of the components and had an older PC on hand since I recently upgraded my main/work desktop, so I'm happy to have kept it on the cheap.
All 3 games preview before the FFB wheel was installed:
Some specs:
PC Driven:
•i7-4770k
•GTX 970
•32gb ram
Display:
•Qnix QX2710 LED
•27" 2560x1440
-->Great looking display but don't really recommend as it's Dual Link DVI-D which isn'tsupported by many cards anymore.
Controls Left Side:
•Bulbs replaced with 5V LEDs
•Added Mini Pushbuttons for D-Pad Controls over the graphics of the toggle switches (I had the stock steering wheel at the time without any buttons for d-pad control)
•Added a "start" turn key igntion switch over the igntion switch graphic.
•Boat Floaty Keychain mod for an extra 10hp
•Added 4 concave happ buttons for more inputs (pre-upgraded steering wheel mod).
•Swapped out yellow coin reject buttons for red ones
•Added 5v LEDs behind the coin mech
•Wired in coin mechs for functionality.
Controls Right Side:
•5v LED replacement for boost buttons
•Analog hookup of hand throttle control to A-PAC
Steering Wheel:
•Previously used the stock Midway wheel but no FFB/center return was getting dull and lifeless.
•Recently found a Logitech Driving Force (mid 2000's?) adj. 180-900 deg FFB wheel for $15 (woohoo!)
-->For the HT Dash it's especially important to get a wheel that matches the stock diameter (10") because of the throttle hump that would be near your right hand when two handed steering.
•Created a wood mounting plate to the heavy backframe of the dash pannel
•Created a steering column to extend the connection of the wheel to the hub
•Created a wiring harness to extend the steering buttons to the base
---> The main goal was to not gut and hack up the dash steering area as I wanted it to be a clean install without destroying the plastic (which would probably disintegrate anway).
•Made little midway logo decal on the center cap to tie it in.
Notes: some minor tweaking needed as I just installed this a day ago, but I'm happy with better steering now.
Pedals + Floor:
•Mounted HAPP style pedals for a perfect bolt on fit
--> Similar cab to cruis'n/other racers of that era
--> Removed steel block off and bolted pedals with no modding needed
•Wired both potentiometers together to create a "single axis" pedal
--> Gas Y-Positive, Brake Y-Negative
•Swapped out the filthy rubber flooring with leftover floor pannels.
Audio:
Old Pioneer 315 SX-315 5.1 Stereo Receiver
•Now with 5.1 Channels
--> I had no clue the headrest area was empty on HT.(Original only 2.1 channels)
--> On Rush the headrest has speakers but they point outward from the back of the seat, maybe to attract players passing by.
•Used existing front top channels as they are still loud
•Installed 2 headrest speakers with some small 3" speakers I had
•Installed a center channel above the pedals with one on hand
-->will upgrade to a single one that fits the mount behind the grill eventually
•Replaced the sub with a new 6.5" from amazon (170w 8ohm)
I think I only have 1-2 things left I want to do and after I'm done taking things apart and tinkering I'll move onto asthetics and cleaning things up: new side bench artwork, t-molding, and a custom graphic LED marquee.