Happ trackball - rebuild or replace?

[giantsean]

Hi All,

I am in the process of converting a PGA cab to MAME, with plans to reuse the existing 3" Happ trackball (direct wired to an Ultimarc IPAC Ultimate). After installing it on my test panel, I found that one Axis was a little slippy and unresponsive. I took it apart and found some light grooving in the rollers, and one bearing is a bit rough. The ball (white) is not in bad shape but has a little yellowing on one side.

Went to the S/H site to price out parts, and I noticed that the roller/bearing kit was a little under half of the cost of a new one. Add a ball and it is a no-brainer to replace. I checked Big A and Big E and found nothing cheaper. Do you folks have any experience in rebuilding vs replacing in these cases? I have seen some comments that the newer Happs are not as robust as older ones, but nothing specifically saying rebuild at any cost. If quality is like for like, a brand new one may be the way to go, with the bonus that I can choose the color. I still get the mounting hardware and cutout either way

Thanks for any advice!

[bobbyb13]

If it has green pcbs and needs rollers and bearings then just get a whole new assembly.

If the pcbs are the red ones, but you think it needs a ball in addition to rollers and bearings then it may be wise to get a whole new assembly.

There are MANY other places to get parts for those (and complete units for that matter) other than Suzo Happ- where most probably you will be unpleasantly surprised by shipping costs.

Is that machine still all original/functional?

[giantsean]

Thanks!  Yes they are green.  What is the advantage of the red v. green?  Better resolution, more reliable?

As for PGA I got the cabinet for free and always planned to convert it.  It had no monitor but did have a PC sans video card.  Everything else seems to be there though and the HDD has a working image (or would, if it had a proper AGP card)

[PL1]

What is the advantage of the red v. green?  Better resolution, more reliable?

The red board (P/N A052-1011-00) is an updated version of the green board. (P/N A052-1010-00)
- The red board has faster response time so it doesn't have problems with backspin which can be a big problem for games like Golden Tee.

 

If you replace the trackball, get one with red boards and a Molex connector. (white connector, lower right)



Avoid the version with a built-in USB & PS/2 encoder kit (P/N 56-0113-00K) that has the main PCB (P/N 55-0301-00) with the encoder and a satellite optical PCB. (55-0302-00)
- Not obsolete, but not recommended.  Some people have complained about backspin problems.



Scott

[giantsean]

Thank you!

Yes definitely after the "arcade" version and have already wired up the male Molex from the machine to the IPAC.  Aside from the sketchy rollers and bearings, it works a treat.

Sounds like a full replacement is the way to go.  Plus I can now choose my preferred color

[giantsean]

Doh!!! turns out I had red boards after all!  I've already ordered and received the replacement.  In this case is the old one worth repairing?

[nitrogen_widget]

I picked up a few trackballs in a lot off ebay.
A couple i've worked on actually came out rolling as good as one you find in todays arcades.

they were crusty as heck though.
took them apart, put the pieces in my sonic cleaner.
put the rollers in my drill and wet sanded with 60 grit then did it again with 120 grit then finally with some 500 grit.
in the ones where the bearings are still good, even with the rollers clearly worn i gotta say they feel just fine.
though i admit, i haven't played any games on them yet.
but i'll work on that this winter.

I've only had a few bearings that were completely shot in one that was particularly filthy.
I ordered standard rollerskate bearings the same size with no covers over the bearings and i'm was playing around with them before the summer.
spritzing with WD-40 then forcing onto a wooden dowel that's in my drill so i can spin the hell out of them seems to be working to make them roll easier.
I stopped messing with it when the weather got warm.

basically i was just trying to avoid spending $$ on those rebuild kits.

[PL1]

I hope you didn't use WD-40 as the final lubricant for those bearings.

WD-40 will break down the rust, but the problem is, as a lubricant, it evaporates and what is left is not ideal for ball bearings.  The way it works is it gets pushed arouned off of the balls and builds up, slowing them down.  I didn't really believe this till I "real-world" tested it.  IT DOES KILL THE BEARING.  You'll have to strip it and relube.  All sites I've seen point to 3-in-1 oil

Lots of good related info in that thread.


Scott

[nitrogen_widget]

I hope you didn't use WD-40 as the final lubricant for those bearings.

WD-40 will break down the rust, but the problem is, as a lubricant, it evaporates and what is left is not ideal for ball bearings.  The way it works is it gets pushed arouned off of the balls and builds up, slowing them down.  I didn't really believe this till I "real-world" tested it.  IT DOES KILL THE BEARING.  You'll have to strip it and relube.  All sites I've seen point to 3-in-1 oil

Lots of good related info in that thread.


Scott

YES!
I plan to use 3in1 as the final lube.
wd-40 was to breakdown the stuff they came with.

[bobbyb13]

PB Blaster is my go to for rusty crap.
Hate the smell of the stuff but man does it work.

Then a little flush with brake cleaner and a shot of compressed air, and then 3 in 1 oil - unless of course you're a skater and have some Bones Speed Cream handy.

I don't know what that stuff is but it is really good.

[seawolfgoo]

I picked up a few trackballs in a lot off ebay.
A couple i've worked on actually came out rolling as good as one you find in todays arcades.

they were crusty as heck though.
took them apart, put the pieces in my sonic cleaner.
put the rollers in my drill and wet sanded with 60 grit then did it again with 120 grit then finally with some 500 grit.
in the ones where the bearings are still good, even with the rollers clearly worn i gotta say they feel just fine.
though i admit, i haven't played any games on them yet.
but i'll work on that this winter.

I've only had a few bearings that were completely shot in one that was particularly filthy.
I ordered standard rollerskate bearings the same size with no covers over the bearings and i'm was playing around with them before the summer.
spritzing with WD-40 then forcing onto a wooden dowel that's in my drill so i can spin the hell out of them seems to be working to make them roll easier.
I stopped messing with it when the weather got warm.

basically i was just trying to avoid spending $$ on those rebuild kits.

Please link the bearings you ordered. 

[seawolfgoo]

I find new bearings make the most difference.  Resurfacing and polishing the trackball also helps.  I gave up on drill mounted buffing wheels and the blue buffing compound, it was messy and didn't do much, perhaps a larger wheel on a grinder would work.  I found success by spinning the trackball by hand in the rubbing compound and polishing compound tubs made by turtle wax.  Each tubs costs $5 at ACE hardware in the US.  If the trackball has tiny scratches (you feel them more than see them), spin the ball in the green tub of turtle wax rubbing compound (red paste).  Then spin the trackball in the green tub of turtle wax polishing compound(white paste).  I've had to use the red paste a few times before moving on to the white paste.  Ignore the scratch remover claims on the polishing tub of white paste, on happ trackballs it's only a polish.  https://www.turtlewax.com/products/polishing-compound-scratch-remover-105fl-oz and https://www.turtlewax.com/products/rubbing-compound-heavy-duty-cleaner-105fl-oz

[Conocho]

What is the advantage of the red v. green?  Better resolution, more reliable?

The red board (P/N A052-1011-00) is an updated version of the green board. (P/N A052-1010-00)
- The red board has faster response time so it doesn't have problems with backspin which can be a big problem for games like Golden Tee.

 

If you replace the trackball, get one with red boards and a Molex connector. (white connector, lower right)



Avoid the version with a built-in USB & PS/2 encoder kit (P/N 56-0113-00K) that has the main PCB (P/N 55-0301-00) with the encoder and a satellite optical PCB. (55-0302-00)
- Not obsolete, but not recommended.  Some people have complained about backspin problems.



Scott

What would you suggest buying if I have the green boards and I am having issues with the current green encoders not working correctly?

[PL1]

What would you suggest buying if I have the green boards and I am having issues with the current green encoders not working correctly?

1. Two red boards.

2. An optical (mouse) encoder to convert the quadrature waveform from the optical boards into mouse movements.
- Popular choices include a 2015 or newer IPac2, Opti-Wiz, OptiPac, U-HID, or roll-your-own with an Arduino and mouse firmware. (inexpensive Pro Micros are plentiful  )

3. A harness to connect the red boards to the encoder.
-  GGG carries the Trackball Cable for Opti-Wiz "No-Solder" shown in this picture.
- The cable is plug-and-play with the Opti-Wiz "No-Solder" or you can easily pull pins out of the black Dupont housing to use the cable with other encoder pinout arrangements.




Scott