Copy of javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy or "Dear javeryh"

[Raktageno]

Dear javeryh (and everyone else),

It is May of 2021. The COVID-19 pandemic shut down most of the world for the last year. As infection numbers decline, some return to a life of some normalcy, while some have found comfort in living like a hermit and choose to remain living that way. I am the latter. This last year would have been a great opportunity to start a project, but inspiration only recently hit me in a moment of random scrolling to discover javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161994.0.html). In my opinion, it is the gold standard of cabaret cabinets, which I understand is the result of reviewing the work of many others. I do not claim to have more experience in any area required for such a build, and I do not claim to improve upon it in any way. I don't see how. I do, instead, intend to treat javeryh's build as a blueprint to create one of my own.

Sidenote: I am notorious for dragging my feet on a project as noted by my last build of a restoration of a Joust cabinet that took just over a year. I also am practicing patience, so I plan to take my time.

The project:

• Cabaret - check
• Woodgrain in traditional Atari style - check
• Minimal controls and menus - check
• Dynamic marquee - check
• Clean wiring and other details - only if I'm patient

What I might change:

• Spinner to Trackball? I love a trackball and I love Missile Command, but Roadblasters can be played with a spinner. I'm unsure, but since I don't intend to have a sprawling list of titles, the fact that more games can be played on one rather than the other is not my main appeal. Your thoughts?
• CRT to LCD. Yes, burn me at the stake, but I have a surplus of LCD screens, an abundance of experience with them, and am extremely nervous of the potentially fatal nature of mishandling a CRT.
• Casters? I already have a place for it, but could see kicking myself in the event I want to move it and don't have casters. Your thoughts?

As of now, that's really it. Lumber prices are astronomical, but I could see them staying where they are just based on demand, so I may bite the bullet and start gathering materials. I have an old PC that could suffice with the addition of a hard drive. I believe I have all the tools necessary, so purchases would primarily include (in no specific order): MDF, various hardware, electronic components (buttons/stick, controller, wiring, coin door, etc.), t-molding, vinyl, and paint. Of course, I'm sure there are things I haven't listed, and I will have to make some exceptions like not using speaker paint where javeryh did ($70 a gallon, oof).

But I wrote about it here, so it's real, right?

[javeryh]

A copy of copy.  I like it.  THIS is the thread that inspired me.

I went back and forth with spinner v. trackball.  One or the other would fit - I chose spinner for Tempest over Centipede.  The trackball would work fine although maybe not be great to slap hard playing Golden Tee or Capcom Bowling.

An LCD monitor will work just fine, I think.  I really like the look of the CRT and I would definitely recommend it since it fits the design but I get it that they are hard to come by.  You don't have to open it up to use it (and I wouldn't if building another one).  That said.... I am building two more currently and plan on using LCDs for the main screen and a static marquee for the marquee and I'm not losing any sleep over it.

Good luck - I'll be following along and helping if I can!

[Raktageno]

Dear javeryh,

Let's talk components.

-PC I've got minus a hard drive, but I can get one pretty easily, so no worries there. Getting software onto that may involve assistance, but it's not on the horizon yet.
-Stick I'm thinking J-Stik Ball-Top from Ultimarc. For the cost difference between it and the ServoStik, I'm fine reaching in to change from 4-way to 8-way to save $50. I know I've seen a stick somewhere that can be changed by pushing the stick in and turning. Anyone know details on that?
-Buttons. Yes.
-Volcano buttons I think are worth it to stay 1:1 with javeryh and I really like how they look. Including the "volcano" style housing on the button brings them to about $20 a button, but they're so cool.
-Coin door. The comment from javeryh just above this links to CUBE, which has no coin door, only a "coin" button, and I don't hate it.
-I have zip ties and zip tie housings on the way. I have every intention to make my wiring neat. We'll see.
-Speakers I can cannibalize from somewhere, I think.
-Trackball. This minute I'm leaning that way instead of a spinner. Convince me either way; I'm flexible. I like Missile Command's trackball in a full-size machine, but that 4.5" ball is a monster and may not even fit.
-Plexi I can get locally along with MDF and most hardware.

[javeryh]

The Mag Stik Plus does the 4/8 way switch on top of the panel.  I've never used one but others can chime in on that.  If you are planning on playing 4-way and 8-way games with the same joystick, you do not want to have to take off the CP every time.  Also, your friends/guests will have no idea.  This is why I think automating it is the best solution if you aren't going to do something dedicated.

I prefer the look of a coin door for nostalgia but you can just use a button.  You don't have to buy one with mechs - you can get the door only for like $20 (I think) and then just rig some buttons to it.

Unless Missile Command is your must-play, I'd go with a 3" trackball at the most.  It takes up a lot of space under the cabinet and I do not think it would have fit on mine without adding another 1" to the CP height (which could have been done).  I think 3" trackballs are roughly 6"x6" under the panel but someone can double check that.  A 4.5" trackball just wouldn't fit.

[Raktageno]

The Mag Stik Plus does the 4/8 way switch on top of the panel.  I've never used one but others can chime in on that.  If you are planning on playing 4-way and 8-way games with the same joystick, you do not want to have to take off the CP every time.  Also, your friends/guests will have no idea.  This is why I think automating it is the best solution if you aren't going to do something dedicated.

Oof, you're right. If the intent is to make end user experience simple, this kind of negates that. So does crawling under the CP every time. For the sake of cost, I'm now wondering if I should just go with an 8-way. At most, games that require a 4-way won't feel true, but at least they'd all work. That is taking the cheap way out though.

I prefer the look of a coin door for nostalgia but you can just use a button.  You don't have to buy one with mechs - you can get the door only for like $20 (I think) and then just rig some buttons to it.

I'm back and forth on this. I think the "belly" of this cab could be enough visual interest in the front in addition to the dynamic marquee to not need a door, but lomoverde's First upright build-Tully Cabaret Plans do show a big difference with that door. The price isn't bad if no mech is needed.

Unless Missile Command is your must-play, I'd go with a 3" trackball at the most.  It takes up a lot of space under the cabinet and I do not think it would have fit on mine without adding another 1" to the CP height (which could have been done).  I think 3" trackballs are roughly 6"x6" under the panel but someone can double check that.  A 4.5" trackball just wouldn't fit.

I figured the 4.5" would be a monster in a cabaret. It's not really possible to play around with different sizes to see what would be best. I do like that you mentioned Centipede in another comment, though, as it hypes me up a bit for trackball winning out over spinner.

[louksd]

I think this is a noble and worthwhile project - I LOVE this style of video game machine for a home, as it is approachable and "suitable for sophisticated locations".

For the computer, if you are looking to play games that would have been contemporary with this style of machine, may I suggest the MiSTer platform?

For less than $400, you can get a nice MiSTer system from misteraddons.com that provides you an easy-to-setup, cycle-accurate rendition of most arcade PCBs; just add MAME ROM files.

I have one in my arcade machine, on a 19" 4:3 VGA LCD, and everything about the experience is right, even the installation and backend operation.

There's no need for the new "MiSTercade" system, either. Just a standard Analog I/O board and your favorite switch/USB converter for the control panel, and you are in business.

I hope your design phase goes well, and can't wait to see progress on the build! Remember, lumber prices are extraordinary, but you should be able to get the entire cabinet out of one 4x8 sheet...compare that to what you're getting out of it, and it's still a bargain!

[Mike A]

Mister accuracy varies widely depending on which games you want to play.

People tend to overhype that thing. It is not magic. There is still a ton of work that needs to be done.

[Raktageno]

For less than $400

I can score a suitable hard drive for nothing, and everything else I already have. While I do like the idea of fine tuning every detail, I'm happy making use of things I currently have sitting. I do appreciate the input.

Moving into design, I've been reading and re-reading javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy, and Jimbo mentioned that a trackball is used to play Marble Madness. Barring being struck by lightning, I'm pretty certain I'm going with a trackball on this one.

That thread also opens up some questions I'll need to consider going into this as well, primarily the need for 4-way and 8-way switching and monitor orientation. Both of which will be decided by my choice of titles. As of now, I'm sure I'll be using Marble Madness, Centipede, and Missile Command to make use of the trackball. I also have no intention of fighting games or any others that would require multiple players simultaneously, plus they're just not my cup of tea.

I do like that this can be made using only one 4x8 sheet of MDF, though it looks like javeryh used more than that so as to use 3/4" for the side panels and top while using 1/2" for internal pieces. Due to various incidents, I have very little scrap wood, so I wouldn't mind ending up with more. I want to keep my momentum on this, so I may pick up some MDF as early as tonight.

[Raktageno]

Dear javeryh,

Gathering materials, I am 100% certain I want the look of this cab to be exactly the same as the one I'm copying in terms of t-molding and woodgrain. Unfortunately, javeryh used this which shows a message I haven't seen before on Amazon:

"Your selected delivery location is beyond seller's delivery coverage for this item. Please choose a different delivery location or purchase from another seller. "

I understand javeryh is on the east coast US. I'm more central (OKC). Is it possible to have this sent to someone who can then forward it to me by proxy? Or possibly find something comparable more locally?

[javeryh]

Looks like they don't ship to the US any more - I get same message.  Google Fablon or dc-fix-it brands (I think they might actually be the same company).  Make sure whatever you order will cover the full side panel (4' x 2' minimum).  They sell 2m x 67cm and that should work.

[louksd]

Dear javeryh,

Gathering materials, I am 100% certain I want the look of this cab to be exactly the same as the one I'm copying in terms of t-molding and woodgrain. Unfortunately, javeryh used this which shows a message I haven't seen before on Amazon:

"Your selected delivery location is beyond seller's delivery coverage for this item. Please choose a different delivery location or purchase from another seller. "

I understand javeryh is on the east coast US. I'm more central (OKC). Is it possible to have this sent to someone who can then forward it to me by proxy? Or possibly find something comparable more locally?

I wonder if it's actually a UK shipping thing...but if I may offer alternatives, I've purchased two different vinyls that I was originally going to use on my cabinet, then left the natural maple finish, so I never had a chance to truly install it yet.

Enclosed are two images of the ones I purchased. The one sampled on the hardboard was from Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Con-Tact-Creative-Covering-18-in-x-20-ft-Cherry-Woodgrain-Self-Adhesive-Vinyl-Drawer-and-Shelf-Liner-6-rolls-20F-C9A4M2-06/301568796#overlay

The other is the Black Walnut version of this from eBay (scroll down for listing): https://www.ebay.com/itm/383697248560

I know they aren't exactly the right color, but I think the eBay one was going to look good on my full-size...and would, in my opinion, look even better on a cabaret.

I don't know if this helps (totally understand on the PC!) but at least it might start a search for a temporary replacement if you can't find a proxy shipper (UK Fablon can't get to me, either).

[Raktageno]

I wonder if it's actually a UK shipping thing...

Maybe, international shipping is kind of a mess right now.

Enclosed are two images of the ones I purchased. The one sampled on the hardboard was from Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Con-Tact-Creative-Covering-18-in-x-20-ft-Cherry-Woodgrain-Self-Adhesive-Vinyl-Drawer-and-Shelf-Liner-6-rolls-20F-C9A4M2-06/301568796#overlay

I believe the one you're referring to there is the image titled "WoodgrainVinylTest.jpg" (which I've also attached, though I'm not sure how good my formatting is). From what I can tell, that's super close! I am no authority on color, though, so I can't be certain. I've been looking around at DC Fix, and they do sell through Home Depot, and their rolls are about $20. I'm currently weighing whether it's worth it to order a roll just to get a look. It's unlikely I'll find it locally, but possible.

[louksd]

I believe the one you're referring to there is the image titled "WoodgrainVinylTest.jpg" (which I've also attached, though I'm not sure how good my formatting is). From what I can tell, that's super close! I am no authority on color, though, so I can't be certain. I've been looking around at DC Fix, and they do sell through Home Depot, and their rolls are about $20. I'm currently weighing whether it's worth it to order a roll just to get a look. It's unlikely I'll find it locally, but possible.

That's correct - Note the Home Depot price on the link is for a CASE OF 6! You can get individual rolls for fairly cheap to test. I did a "ship to store" order on it, but sometimes shipping to your home is faster and free shipping!

[javeryh]

Again, make sure it is wide enough before ordering.  A lot of the rolls in the U.S that I found were only 18" wide and it's not enough.  I think it's because they are used for drawer bottoms? 24" would be safe but I think it needs to be at least 23" wide to cover the whole panel.

[Raktageno]

it needs to be at least 23" wide to cover the whole panel.

Thanks for the reminder. Everything I find is about 18" and this cab based on your plans is definitely deeper than that. I found this which is an applicable width, but I worry it's too light. It's returnable, so if it doesn't work I can always send it back, but ugh, minor inconveniences!

Also, I think I need to buy a jigsaw.

[Malenko]

Finally, people are getting inspired by the cooler designs from this site's past. I look forward to the progress and if you need any help just ask, its what we are here for

[Mike A]

+1 to that.
Simple time tested designs.

[Raktageno]

Dear javeryh,

Firstly, thank you all for your support.

Secondly, pictures are fun, so this post has visual aides.

Current progress! I'll be drawing up the template on this beautiful piece of hardboard. I looked at MDF last night and may have to pay more for pieces already cut into a size that can fit in my car. I like what javeryh did with swapping the areas for coin door and marquee on these plans.


I met with a friend last night who scoops up tools whenever he comes across them at garage sales. This router had a bit stuck in, and he already had two, so he let me take it. I got the bit out thanks to vise grips, and now have a second router. Backup tools!


I got the green light to get a jigsaw, ordered one test roll of the woodgrain adhesive film I linked to above, and got some zip ties and zip tie anchors as well. The adhesive roll will be too short to cover both sides, so I'll need to get another if it works.

[Raktageno]

Dear javeryh,

It has been two weeks since my last contact. I fear I will not survive in this wilderness. 

Let's dive right in.

I've gotten some deliveries. First was t-molding and wood grain adhesive. I'm liking the color and doing math about whether I can make this one roll work.


Thanks to a friend with a truck, I was able to get some 4x8 sheets of MDF and got to quartering on the 3/4" piece and making 18" cuts on the 1/2" piece.


I was pointed to these plans from javeryh's post about the cab I'm copying which led me to a breakdown in centimeters. Because I am a heathen, I do not use the metric system and had to do math. I measured this out, swapping the top and bottom sections of what will be the front, rounded some corners, and voila.


I'm leaning into the Craftsman v20 line of tools and got a nice jigsaw. I like it.


Template cut onto hardboard


Routered along the template to cut my sides


Made some oopsies along the way that I'll have to figure out how to fix. Worst case scenario, I leave them and they're covered with vinyl and t-molding. Still, I'd like to try. This has all been a learning experience for me so far.


And the sides are out.


I also recently learned the term for the degradation that takes place when copying a copy, and since I'm not as skilled in these areas as javeryh appears to be, this degradation is somewhat apparent. I'm not too worried. I'm making it mine. Still, my fellow arcadians, I give you the beginnings of: Generation Loss.

[DaOld Man]

About those notches on the edges:
You can fill them in with bondo (same stuff used on cars, available at walmart).
After bondo sets up, use sandpaper (a sander is better if you have one),  to sand them down flush.
If you've never used it before, practice on some scrap wood. That stuff sets up pretty quick, depending on how much of the liquid stuff you use when mixing it.
Cant remember what the liquid stuff is called but it should come with the bondo.
Read instructions on can first.
You may not have to anything to the notches, but bondo will eliminate the shape being transferred to the laminate or t-molding.

Good work!

[javeryh]

Looks good.  Those dents are pretty easy to fix with bondo like DaOld Man said.  I would wrap a paint stick or something flat in cellophane (so it won't stick) and then attach it to the edge spanning the area you want to fix (I would use some painter's tape and wrap it around the edge like if you were gluing edge banding or something).  Then fill the hole created by the stick and the panel with bondo, let it dry and then sand everything smooth.  You might need to do it 2-3 times to fill air holes or whatever but with some patience you will never know it is there once you paint and cover with vinyl.  Also, bondo can be routed with the slot cutter so no worries there either.

Good start!

[Raktageno]

bondo can be routed with the slot cutter

This is the question I've been asking myself all morning. Good to know! I get to play with bondo!

Looking ahead, if I'm following along just as with javeryh, next steps are to cut out the interior panels from 1/2" MDF, then cut the appropriate holes for cam lock, ventilation (I'm using handles that double for this purpose), marquee screen, speakers, and coin door. I'm still on the fence about using a coin door as the look adds a lot, but I'm not sure if I can justify the cost. I have no spare speakers to use, so I may get the same ones used on javeryh's build. I have monitors to decase which will take some measuring to get holes right. Speaking of justifying cost in addition to mounting, I'm also on the fence about laminate. I'm considering rabbeting the holes for marquee and speakers to frame them in so that I wouldn't need laminate to hold things in front, but that's its own thing. I know the laminate was quite the headache.

I'm getting antsy to apply the woodgrain and t-molding, but I'm probably getting ahead of myself. Remember that whole "practicing patience" thing I mentioned at the start of this? I have the slot cutting bit so I could already cut those out, but I don't have any paint yet. I do have a slight concern that a lighter colored primer will cause my woodgrain adhesive to appear lighter depending on how thin it is.

[Gilrock]

I like MinWax Wood Filler...its a 2 part epoxy I've used on all my cabs.  I've never seen bondo and have no idea what it is but I found this stuff and love it.  I've looked for comparison articles and it seemed like people get just as passionate as plywood vs mdf...lol.

[javeryh]

I like MinWax Wood Filler...its a 2 part epoxy I've used on all my cabs.  I've never seen bondo and have no idea what it is but I found this stuff and love it.  I've looked for comparison articles and it seemed like people get just as passionate as plywood vs mdf...lol.

yeah there are probably lots of ways to deal with it.  Bondo is typically used for automotive repair.  It dries hard as a rock in about 2 minutes or less depending on how much hardener you use so you have to be quick - it's actually pretty cool stuff.  Stinks though.

Raktageno - once you fix the edges I would route the slots before applying the vinyl.  The thickness is negligible so you will still be centered and you won't have to worry about ruining the vinyl during the routing process.  If you are putting 1/32" laminate on one side though I would do that before routing the slots - that will make a difference (and then run your router along the non-laminated side to avoid scratches).  As long as you are close to center it's hard to mess up and if there is a little bit of edge that is visible you can cover it with a black sharpie (or paint the edge before adding the t-molding).  Make sure the bondo/patched area is dry and dust free before patching and then sanded completely flush after patching.

[Raktageno]

I like MinWax Wood Filler...its a 2 part epoxy I've used on all my cabs.  I've never seen bondo and have no idea what it is but I found this stuff and love it.  I've looked for comparison articles and it seemed like people get just as passionate as plywood vs mdf...lol.

yeah there are probably lots of ways to deal with it.  Bondo is typically used for automotive repair.  It dries hard as a rock in about 2 minutes or less depending on how much hardener you use so you have to be quick - it's actually pretty cool stuff.  Stinks though.

Thanks to both of you. I've been doing some reading, and bondo seems to shrink less and only require one coat. For the amount of work I need done, I expect to have excess, so I'm trying to think of other similar projects I have around the house to complete and am only coming up with one other project at this moment. That project requires filling in where I've cut out knots from wood that will be visible and outside. I'm thinking wood filler may be the better option there. I see bondo makes a wood filler. I'm thinking of also testing mixing in some sawdust to see if I can end up with a closer approximation since that project won't involve painting.

If you are putting 1/32" laminate on one side though I would do that before routing the slots - that will make a difference

Thank you for the reminder. I often fail to make those considerations and end up kicking myself. I'm not certain if I'm going to use laminate or not at this point though.

[Gilrock]

I like MinWax Wood Filler...its a 2 part epoxy I've used on all my cabs.  I've never seen bondo and have no idea what it is but I found this stuff and love it.  I've looked for comparison articles and it seemed like people get just as passionate as plywood vs mdf...lol.

yeah there are probably lots of ways to deal with it.  Bondo is typically used for automotive repair.  It dries hard as a rock in about 2 minutes or less depending on how much hardener you use so you have to be quick - it's actually pretty cool stuff.  Stinks though.

Minwax Wood Filler also uses a hardener.  You scoop out a thick pasty blob and then squeeze some hardener out of a tube estimating a 1:16 ratio.  Mix and apply.  You usually barely get 5 minutes before its hard.  I've never seen it shrink.  Seemed more intuitive to use something designed for wood instead of something designed for metal.

[pbj]

I've just mixed up sawdust and wood glue for those kind of patches.  Make a paste, slap it on, sand it down.  Fill any small gaps with spackle, sand it again. 

[Vigo]

I like MinWax Wood Filler...its a 2 part epoxy I've used on all my cabs.  I've never seen bondo and have no idea what it is but I found this stuff and love it.  I've looked for comparison articles and it seemed like people get just as passionate as plywood vs mdf...lol.

yeah there are probably lots of ways to deal with it.  Bondo is typically used for automotive repair.  It dries hard as a rock in about 2 minutes or less depending on how much hardener you use so you have to be quick - it's actually pretty cool stuff.  Stinks though.

Minwax Wood Filler also uses a hardener.  You scoop out a thick pasty blob and then squeeze some hardener out of a tube estimating a 1:16 ratio.  Mix and apply.  You usually barely get 5 minutes before its hard.  I've never seen it shrink.  Seemed more intuitive to use something designed for wood instead of something designed for metal.

   Biggest difference between those two products is the color. They are both polyester epoxy fillers.

[Raktageno]

Dear javeryh,

I ventured to a specific depot where I found bondo, bondo brand wood filler, and the Minwax wood filler all in one place. Thanks to the comments above, I decided solely on price, where a quite large bucket of general purpose bondo won out. Mostly to thank is the comment from Vigo above. _{Hail Vigo, scourge of Carpathia, sorrow of Moldovia}. So I got it home and played a little.

It may look rough, but I'm proud of that edge.


Another angle of the sharp corner. It sanded down quite easily so my oopsies are mostly gone. I also cut the t-molding groove after this, which was surprisingly easy.


So here's the thing. I -THOUGHT- I was following javeryh to the letter. I planned to swap the height of the upper and lower sections on the front, but because I'm not really the special, I follow instructions more than learn, so I ended up not swapping them, so the shape will be more like CUBE. I soaked in my shame for a minute and dove back in. This is a learning experience, it doesn't have to be exactly 1:1, and now I've forced myself to make the decision that I'm not going to do a full coin door. It'll still play games. That's the point here.



So, current progress. I have all but the upper shroud and control panel cut out. I'll be using 3/4" for the shroud if not both. I didn't want to juggle more lumber because it is time for tacos.



Next up is some more math. The thing is, I don't really want to screw into this MDF and make more messes, so I'm trying something a little out there. I'm going to attach it all together with dowel pins. Crazy? Maybe. Only maybe. I'll mark out my dowel hole locations and do some drilling, then get to painting. Also, I'm not a fan of painting, so I'm going to cut some corners and use spray rustoleum flat black primer & paint in one, sanding at 220 grit between coats. I'm practicing patience here, not perfection.

[Raktageno]

It was windy and rainy most of yesterday, so I didn't want to run the risk of things getting wet. It gave me time to think things over, and I'm glad I haven't moved forward. Thinking downstream, I need to be accounting for monitors, speakers, and now a coin button. I measured the monitors I have, and only one will work. It's scavenged from an old laptop, and the controller for it is on the way, so I can't even say if it will work. I have two potential leads on other monitors that could work, so I'm going to need to call those in before I start assembling and cutting holes in already assembled pieces. This also means that I need to determine how the dynamic marquee is going to look and where that artwork is going to land on the screen before I can make that cut. I guess I need to get started on software.

Things I could do in the meantime:

• Paint all pieces requiring no more cuts
• Assemble pieces requiring no more cuts

I really should paint everything together to ensure they all look alike. Crap. I guess I could prime, vinyl, and t-molding the side pieces, but maybe that's premature. Hmm, patience.

Any guidance?

[Raktageno]

Yep, I'm definitely in a holding pattern.

I can't move forward with the physical cabinet because I should wait to cut the marquee/speaker/coin button holes before I paint. I don't have the speakers or coin button yet, so I should probably order them.

The big issue is screens. Of all these monitors I have around, they're all too big to fit in this cabinet. I did harvest a laptop monitor and got it working, but its shape will lend better to the marquee, which does give me something I can do. This means it's time to lean into software. I'll probably rebuild my old PC this weekend, hook up this laptop monitor, and start working on the dynamic marquee. I'm not sure where to begin there. In fact, I'm not even sure what frontend to use.