Author Topic: Midway Multi-Williams Omega MAME (Read 15424 times)

RetroJames · « **on:** February 24, 2004, 11:34:57 pm »

Here is a pic of the CP overlay Nannu designed for me, some changes pending but this is real close to finished.

RetroJames · « **Reply #1 on:** February 24, 2004, 11:43:31 pm »

Ok I am going to post a few pics below. Here is the problem. For the "Invisio" and "Hyperspace" buttons, as you can see I am very close to the leading edge of the cp. Since Omega Race has a lower marquee there is very little room near the leading edge of the cp. Pictured is two leafswitch buttons, short ones, in the Invisio and Hyperspace positions, but as you can see they are hitting the frame of the lower marquee. Either I have to shuffle the buttons and get them away from that area or I need to find buttons and a switch that combined are no lower than 11/16" from the bottom of the cp. By contrast, a "normal" short leaf switch button needs at least 1 1/4" of clearance when fully depressed. Does anyone have any ideas or have you seen something that might be used here?

RetroJames · « **Reply #2 on:** February 24, 2004, 11:44:44 pm »

The offending button postitions minus the buttons

RetroJames · « **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2004, 11:45:24 pm »

With the buttons

RetroJames · « **Reply #4 on:** February 24, 2004, 11:46:12 pm »

again with the buttons

CitznFish · « **Reply #5 on:** February 25, 2004, 12:47:06 am »

it's a piss poor solution, but maybe make your control panel 3x thicker?

RetroJames · « **Reply #6 on:** February 25, 2004, 12:57:48 am »

Ok, I know the buttons are out there. I found some leaf-switches that will do the trick and I know I USED to have the buttons for them...

The buttons I had were a murky cream color (blechhh) so I don't want to use them even if I find them, but these switches are right at 11/16 fully depressed soooo.....

Anyone seen these before? I suspect they are from a pinball game. More importantly, where can I get replacement buttons. I have looked at Bob Roberts site and Happs with no luck.

RetroJames · « **Reply #7 on:** February 25, 2004, 12:58:50 am »

Sprucemoose · « **Reply #8 on:** February 25, 2004, 08:15:41 am »

I would PM paigeoliver, he would know about those buttons.

Correct me if I am wrong, but your CP is going to have a small strip of wood inbetween the the CP top and the bottom marquee? If that is correct, then just notch out the wood that the buttons are hitting, your strip of wood between CP and Marquee should hide everything.

RetroJames · « **Reply #9 on:** February 25, 2004, 08:57:39 am »

Quote from: Sprucemoose on February 25, 2004, 08:15:41 am

I would PM paigeoliver, he would know about those buttons.

Correct me if I am wrong, but your CP is going to have a small strip of wood inbetween the the CP top and the bottom marquee? If that is correct, then just notch out the wood that the buttons are hitting, your strip of wood between CP and Marquee should hide everything.

I will check with paige. As far as the cp detail and that strip of wood, I am trying to do this project without hacking the cabinet at all. If I can find the buttons for those switches I think I am in business.

jcoleman · « **Reply #10 on:** February 25, 2004, 11:57:12 am »

Those switch holders look like they are out of a PacMan/Galaxian style Midway machine. I ran across some holders like that when I rebuilt my converted Galaxian. I think you'd be fine with short leaf switch buttons, but it's hard to tell if the ones you have tried are short or not.

Coleman

RetroJames · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2004, 12:38:34 pm »

Yup, the ones pictured in the holes are short ones, I need short short ones.

Nannuu · « **Reply #12 on:** February 25, 2004, 01:36:05 pm »

Have you thought about revising those buttons by cutting them and moving the e-ring up? Then using them in the short brackets?

RetroJames · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2004, 01:44:12 pm »

Quote from: Nannuu on February 25, 2004, 01:36:05 pm

Have you thought about revising those buttons by cutting them and moving the e-ring up? Then using them in the short brackets?

Post sent to RGVA about 5 min ago...

I don't want to cut into the cab at all as i want to restore when I can
afford to get some boards. I may end up having to modify some short
buttons.

Brilliant minds think alike

paigeoliver · « **Reply #14 on:** February 26, 2004, 12:15:29 am »

Those holders/switches could have been out of almost anything. They look similar to Gottlieb flipper button leafs, and to stuff I have seen in early 80s Sega cabinets. But, they really could be from ANYTHING.

My own personal suggestion is to build the panel out of some fairly thick (like 3/4" wood), there are solid state arcade buttons out there that could reside completely within the hole you drilled for the button, with just a couple of wires poking out (so no clearance issues).

I have a few of them, 4 of them installed on my Do! Run Run cabinet, and a few more in the parts box. I am unsure of their original source though, and they DO NOT look the same as a standard leaf or micro button (bezel part is tiny, while the "button" part is larger and flat).

RetroJames · « **Reply #15 on:** February 27, 2004, 12:29:26 am »

See? Really Really Really short leaf-switch button!

RetroJames · « **Reply #16 on:** February 27, 2004, 12:30:03 am »

RetroJames · « **Reply #17 on:** February 27, 2004, 12:31:00 am »

RetroJames · « **Reply #18 on:** March 06, 2004, 12:22:52 pm »

Let there be light! Marquees should be up by end of the day!

RetroJames · « **Reply #19 on:** March 11, 2004, 08:11:04 pm »

All lights are working! Sorry for the crummy pic but you can get the idea. It really looks awesome!

walls83 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 11, 2004, 10:53:27 pm »

I love the second marquee at the bottom of the cp... very nice

Stingray · « **Reply #21 on:** March 12, 2004, 09:06:51 am »

It's amazing how much difference in looks adding lights to your cab can make. When I got my coin door and marquee lights working it really came alive. Super nice looking cab you've got there.

-S

RetroJames · « **Reply #22 on:** March 13, 2004, 04:17:47 am »

Thanks, I am really impressed with the effects and overall design of this cabinet. Similarly I think many of the Space Invaders cabinets are pretty neat too. The reflective glass has some pretty cool properties and possibilities. Check out these pics of an Omega cabinet from Appolo's arcade. They took much better pics than I can but my cabinet looks exactly like that with the lights on.

http://www.appolo.com/gameroom/gameroom.htm

RetroJames · « **Reply #23 on:** March 13, 2004, 04:18:37 am »

Another

RetroJames · « **Reply #24 on:** June 09, 2004, 09:27:48 pm »

Finished the CP though it does need to be wired. Nannu designed and printed the CPO for me and I used his idea on routing the joystick holes with a 45 degree bit in a dremel. It really dressed it up I think. Enjoy!

RetroJames · « **Reply #25 on:** June 09, 2004, 09:32:33 pm »

Zakk · « **Reply #26 on:** June 09, 2004, 09:34:54 pm »

Very very slick! I like the whole "appearance package".

Generic Eric · « **Reply #27 on:** June 10, 2004, 12:17:20 am »

Quote from: 1hookedspacecadet on June 09, 2004, 09:27:48 pm

Finished the CP though it does need to be wired. Nannu designed and printed the CPO for me and I used his idea on routing the joystick holes with a 45 degree bit in a dremel. It really dressed it up I think. Enjoy!

Yes it did!

edit
I like the colors on the cp as well.
/edit

Nannuu · « **Reply #28 on:** June 10, 2004, 10:38:55 am »

Oh! Neat! I'm glad it worked! I was afraid the graphics wouldn't match up! That is some fine measuring on your part. I really like the look of that cabinet, wouldn't mind having one myself

.

Edgedamage · « **Reply #29 on:** June 10, 2004, 12:06:28 pm »

That's the cats meow of conversions.

motorfish · « **Reply #30 on:** June 10, 2004, 01:31:31 pm »

Wow! I absolutely love this so much!! Great with keeping with the classic look of the rest of the cabinet and graphics! A+ ^_^

RetroJames · « **Reply #31 on:** June 11, 2004, 08:28:30 am »

Thanks for all the kind words. Again, hats off to nannu for the cp overlay. It makes this the "cat's meow"

DarkKobold · « **Reply #32 on:** June 11, 2004, 09:42:12 am »

All I have to say is wow. That is how a conversion should be done.
Beautiful, respectful, and it saves a classic, and makes it better in the process.

And it probably is set to play robotron, defender, joust and omega race....

not 6000 gamesmsmemesses!

RetroJames · « **Reply #33 on:** June 11, 2004, 09:47:07 am »

Quote from: DarkKobold on June 11, 2004, 09:42:12 am

All I have to say is wow. That is how a conversion should be done.
Beautiful, respectful, and it saves a classic, and makes it better in the process.

And it probably is set to play robotron, defender, joust and omega race....

not 6000 gamesmsmemesses!

hmm...I could make it a Multi-Majong Omega MAME....

j/k

Brax · « **Reply #34 on:** June 17, 2004, 10:49:37 pm »

Beautiful work, that's one of the nicest convesions I've EVER seen.

I love artwork that's true to the intent of the original cab. You've hit the nail right on the head with that one!

MrArcade · « **Reply #35 on:** July 08, 2004, 10:19:32 pm »

Can you get some screenshots of various games to show what they look like with the mirror?

RetroJames · « **Reply #36 on:** July 08, 2004, 10:38:04 pm »

Quote from: MrArcade on July 08, 2004, 10:19:32 pm

Can you get some screenshots of various games to show what they look like with the mirror?

Yep!

Just as soon as I finish... $:-\$

Newborns rock!

RetroJames · « **Reply #37 on:** September 30, 2004, 02:36:28 pm »

Now that Moon Patrol is finished I can get back to MY CABINET!!!!

RetroJames · « **Reply #38 on:** December 18, 2004, 12:51:58 pm »

I am trying to wire up the led / lighted switches on the Omega Race. On
the side of the switch, it has the following info:

+ = 2V MAX
5 A125/250 VAC

Can someone help decipher this for me so I can figure out what voltage and
amps are needed to lite these up? Also, should I place a resistor in line
as well?

Thanks!

RayB · « **Reply #39 on:** December 18, 2004, 02:37:33 pm »

You sure it doesn't say "5A 125/250 VAC" (ie: 5 amps)
I THINK a 330 ohm resister is what you need. That's the conclusion I came to when I researched it, but i have not yet built the system, so I haven't see it working.

RetroJames · « **Reply #40 on:** December 21, 2004, 09:33:39 am »

I figured it out:

The "+= 2V MAX" refers to the LED - maxvoltage = 2v. From another switch (same kind, diff mfg) I found they are rated at 10 mA. They are essentially red leds and the range is around 10 - 20 mA.

The "5A 125/250 VAC" refers to the switch portion, and is the max voltage/amps that should pass through the switch when activated.

On the LEDs, I wired them in series and using this calculator with the following settings;

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/led.htm

Total LEDs = 4
LED Voltage = 2V
LED Current (mA) = 10
Total Voltage (supply) = 9V
---------------------------------------
Series Resistor = 100 Ohms

So I put in the 100 Ohm resistor on the 9V supply leading to the LED series.

I am going to post a schematic of the CP wiring in a bit.

RetroJames · « **Reply #41 on:** December 21, 2004, 10:46:48 am »

My CP wiring diagram.

RetroJames · « **Reply #42 on:** January 02, 2005, 10:58:10 pm »

Holy Crap I never thought I would see the day. I have no pics right now and I have a good sized punch list left before I can call this project done but holy smokes I'm playin' Defender and Robotron and many more. Playing Defender was the real motivator on this cabinet and I am in seventh heaven. The CP is fantastic, I was woriied about the 8way joy being used for the up/down but neither the fact that it is eight way nor a bit taller than a stock defender stick is putting any kind of damper on the fun.

The raster monitor reflected against the mirror/glass in the Omega cabinet looks just awesome, wayyyyy better than I expected. You cannot tell it is a reflection save for the fact that you can see the actual monitor below.

Sound is good, controls are real tight, and the video modes in advamame are working out pretty well.

I set out to get this thing operational by the end of this week and just finished today. I have much to do but I can honestly say this entire project was and is waaaaaayyyyyy worth it. If you are having any doubts, forget 'em and FINISH THAT CABINET!

- 1havingablastspacecadet

RetroJames · « **Reply #43 on:** January 06, 2005, 09:07:01 am »

Posting some images of my wacky wiring job.

Witchboard · « **Reply #44 on:** January 07, 2005, 12:31:02 am »

Awsome. I'm glad you're playing it finally, just remember not to get caught up and not finish it. Thanks for the tip on fastvid. Maybe it will help out my little PII 233 laptop I'm using in one of my projects.

RetroJames · « **Reply #45 on:** January 07, 2005, 10:05:35 am »

I update the fastvid download link - the first was not working - here it is again -

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/gvision/gv/download.htm

daywane · « **Reply #46 on:** January 19, 2005, 10:33:40 am »

OMG!!! Thats my vert. cab. I never knew. saw your plastick under your cp.
mine, has that. I just ran into my arcade room and I see the same shape.
Mine was converted into a Kung fu master

thanks .

RetroJames · « **Reply #47 on:** January 19, 2005, 10:37:44 am »

Quote from: daywane on January 19, 2005, 10:33:40 am

OMG!!! Thats my vert. cab. I never knew. saw your plastick under your cp.
mine, has that.

Witchboard · « **Reply #48 on:** January 19, 2005, 01:52:31 pm »

The thing I think is most intersting about these Omega Race cabs is they are that pressboard stuff. It's not really wood, but like a dense cardboard. I don't even know if they make the stuff anymore.

RetroJames · « **Reply #49 on:** January 19, 2005, 02:02:35 pm »

Quote from: Witchboard on January 19, 2005, 01:52:31 pm

The thing I think is most intersting about these Omega Race cabs is they are that pressboard stuff.

Witchboard · « **Reply #50 on:** January 19, 2005, 02:37:32 pm »

I'm not sure what the best method would be on this type of material. Sanding may just make it fuzzy or something. What ever you do, just be sure to wear a mask with this stuff. If you do make changes/repairs to the cab, post your results. Mine is mushroomed in the back on top of the cabinet. I was just going to leave it as is, but if there's a way to fix it, I might try.

RetroJames · « **Reply #51 on:** January 19, 2005, 02:42:09 pm »

I won't be going into that on the Omega Mame in the forseeable future. My cab is in great shape, just a few rough edges and some small scratches. The sanding would leave it fuzzy, but you could do that just to get the cancer out. Once you seal it with epoxy (some products are sandable) then bodo to get it back to the level you want it I think you would be fine. There is a product that you can use on partially rotted wood, commmonly used on window sills. You glop it on the affected area and it soaks into all the gaps as well as seals the exterior of the wood. Then you can sand it like it was wood. I wish i could remember the name of it, it is pretty cool stuff and is often stronger than the rest of the wood you are treating.

RetroJames · « **Reply #52 on:** October 26, 2005, 09:34:02 pm »

bump - just reminiscing


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