Author Topic: Midway Multi-Williams Omega MAME (Read 12451 times)

RetroJames · « **on:** February 24, 2004, 11:34:57 pm »

Here is a pic of the CP overlay Nannu designed for me, some changes pending but this is real close to finished.

RetroJames · « **Reply #1 on:** February 24, 2004, 11:43:31 pm »

Ok I am going to post a few pics below. Here is the problem. For the "Invisio" and "Hyperspace" buttons, as you can see I am very close to the leading edge of the cp. Since Omega Race has a lower marquee there is very little room near the leading edge of the cp. Pictured is two leafswitch buttons, short ones, in the Invisio and Hyperspace positions, but as you can see they are hitting the frame of the lower marquee. Either I have to shuffle the buttons and get them away from that area or I need to find buttons and a switch that combined are no lower than 11/16" from the bottom of the cp. By contrast, a "normal" short leaf switch button needs at least 1 1/4" of clearance when fully depressed. Does anyone have any ideas or have you seen something that might be used here?

RetroJames · « **Reply #2 on:** February 24, 2004, 11:44:44 pm »

The offending button postitions minus the buttons

RetroJames · « **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2004, 11:45:24 pm »

With the buttons

RetroJames · « **Reply #4 on:** February 24, 2004, 11:46:12 pm »

again with the buttons

CitznFish · « **Reply #5 on:** February 25, 2004, 12:47:06 am »

it's a piss poor solution, but maybe make your control panel 3x thicker?

RetroJames · « **Reply #6 on:** February 25, 2004, 12:57:48 am »

Ok, I know the buttons are out there. I found some leaf-switches that will do the trick and I know I USED to have the buttons for them...

The buttons I had were a murky cream color (blechhh) so I don't want to use them even if I find them, but these switches are right at 11/16 fully depressed soooo.....

Anyone seen these before? I suspect they are from a pinball game. More importantly, where can I get replacement buttons. I have looked at Bob Roberts site and Happs with no luck.

RetroJames · « **Reply #7 on:** February 25, 2004, 12:58:50 am »

Sprucemoose · « **Reply #8 on:** February 25, 2004, 08:15:41 am »

I would PM paigeoliver, he would know about those buttons.

Correct me if I am wrong, but your CP is going to have a small strip of wood inbetween the the CP top and the bottom marquee? If that is correct, then just notch out the wood that the buttons are hitting, your strip of wood between CP and Marquee should hide everything.

RetroJames · « **Reply #9 on:** February 25, 2004, 08:57:39 am »

Quote from: Sprucemoose on February 25, 2004, 08:15:41 am

I would PM paigeoliver, he would know about those buttons.

Correct me if I am wrong, but your CP is going to have a small strip of wood inbetween the the CP top and the bottom marquee? If that is correct, then just notch out the wood that the buttons are hitting, your strip of wood between CP and Marquee should hide everything.

I will check with paige. As far as the cp detail and that strip of wood, I am trying to do this project without hacking the cabinet at all. If I can find the buttons for those switches I think I am in business.

jcoleman · « **Reply #10 on:** February 25, 2004, 11:57:12 am »

Those switch holders look like they are out of a PacMan/Galaxian style Midway machine. I ran across some holders like that when I rebuilt my converted Galaxian. I think you'd be fine with short leaf switch buttons, but it's hard to tell if the ones you have tried are short or not.

Coleman

RetroJames · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2004, 12:38:34 pm »

Yup, the ones pictured in the holes are short ones, I need short short ones.

Nannuu · « **Reply #12 on:** February 25, 2004, 01:36:05 pm »

Have you thought about revising those buttons by cutting them and moving the e-ring up? Then using them in the short brackets?

RetroJames · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2004, 01:44:12 pm »

Quote from: Nannuu on February 25, 2004, 01:36:05 pm

Have you thought about revising those buttons by cutting them and moving the e-ring up? Then using them in the short brackets?

Post sent to RGVA about 5 min ago...

I don't want to cut into the cab at all as i want to restore when I can
afford to get some boards. I may end up having to modify some short
buttons.

Brilliant minds think alike

paigeoliver · « **Reply #14 on:** February 26, 2004, 12:15:29 am »

Those holders/switches could have been out of almost anything. They look similar to Gottlieb flipper button leafs, and to stuff I have seen in early 80s Sega cabinets. But, they really could be from ANYTHING.

My own personal suggestion is to build the panel out of some fairly thick (like 3/4" wood), there are solid state arcade buttons out there that could reside completely within the hole you drilled for the button, with just a couple of wires poking out (so no clearance issues).

I have a few of them, 4 of them installed on my Do! Run Run cabinet, and a few more in the parts box. I am unsure of their original source though, and they DO NOT look the same as a standard leaf or micro button (bezel part is tiny, while the "button" part is larger and flat).

RetroJames · « **Reply #15 on:** February 27, 2004, 12:29:26 am »

See? Really Really Really short leaf-switch button!

RetroJames · « **Reply #16 on:** February 27, 2004, 12:30:03 am »

RetroJames · « **Reply #17 on:** February 27, 2004, 12:31:00 am »

RetroJames · « **Reply #18 on:** March 06, 2004, 12:22:52 pm »

Let there be light! Marquees should be up by end of the day!

RetroJames · « **Reply #19 on:** March 11, 2004, 08:11:04 pm »

All lights are working! Sorry for the crummy pic but you can get the idea. It really looks awesome!

walls83 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 11, 2004, 10:53:27 pm »

I love the second marquee at the bottom of the cp... very nice

Stingray · « **Reply #21 on:** March 12, 2004, 09:06:51 am »

It's amazing how much difference in looks adding lights to your cab can make. When I got my coin door and marquee lights working it really came alive. Super nice looking cab you've got there.

-S

RetroJames · « **Reply #22 on:** March 13, 2004, 04:17:47 am »

Thanks, I am really impressed with the effects and overall design of this cabinet. Similarly I think many of the Space Invaders cabinets are pretty neat too. The reflective glass has some pretty cool properties and possibilities. Check out these pics of an Omega cabinet from Appolo's arcade. They took much better pics than I can but my cabinet looks exactly like that with the lights on.

http://www.appolo.com/gameroom/gameroom.htm

RetroJames · « **Reply #23 on:** March 13, 2004, 04:18:37 am »

Another

RetroJames · « **Reply #24 on:** June 09, 2004, 09:27:48 pm »

Finished the CP though it does need to be wired. Nannu designed and printed the CPO for me and I used his idea on routing the joystick holes with a 45 degree bit in a dremel. It really dressed it up I think. Enjoy!

RetroJames · « **Reply #25 on:** June 09, 2004, 09:32:33 pm »

Zakk · « **Reply #26 on:** June 09, 2004, 09:34:54 pm »

Very very slick! I like the whole "appearance package".

Generic Eric · « **Reply #27 on:** June 10, 2004, 12:17:20 am »

Quote from: 1hookedspacecadet on June 09, 2004, 09:27:48 pm

Finished the CP though it does need to be wired. Nannu designed and printed the CPO for me and I used his idea on routing the joystick holes with a 45 degree bit in a dremel. It really dressed it up I think. Enjoy!

Yes it did!

edit
I like the colors on the cp as well.
/edit

Nannuu · « **Reply #28 on:** June 10, 2004, 10:38:55 am »

Oh! Neat! I'm glad it worked! I was afraid the graphics wouldn't match up! That is some fine measuring on your part. I really like the look of that cabinet, wouldn't mind having one myself

.

Edgedamage · « **Reply #29 on:** June 10, 2004, 12:06:28 pm »

That's the cats meow of conversions.

motorfish · « **Reply #30 on:** June 10, 2004, 01:31:31 pm »

Wow! I absolutely love this so much!! Great with keeping with the classic look of the rest of the cabinet and graphics! A+ ^_^

RetroJames · « **Reply #31 on:** June 11, 2004, 08:28:30 am »

Thanks for all the kind words. Again, hats off to nannu for the cp overlay. It makes this the "cat's meow"

DarkKobold · « **Reply #32 on:** June 11, 2004, 09:42:12 am »

All I have to say is wow. That is how a conversion should be done.
Beautiful, respectful, and it saves a classic, and makes it better in the process.

And it probably is set to play robotron, defender, joust and omega race....

not 6000 gamesmsmemesses!

RetroJames · « **Reply #33 on:** June 11, 2004, 09:47:07 am »

Quote from: DarkKobold on June 11, 2004, 09:42:12 am

All I have to say is wow. That is how a conversion should be done.
Beautiful, respectful, and it saves a classic, and makes it better in the process.

And it probably is set to play robotron, defender, joust and omega race....

not 6000 gamesmsmemesses!

hmm...I could make it a Multi-Majong Omega MAME....

j/k

Brax · « **Reply #34 on:** June 17, 2004, 10:49:37 pm »

Beautiful work, that's one of the nicest convesions I've EVER seen.

I love artwork that's true to the intent of the original cab. You've hit the nail right on the head with that one!

MrArcade · « **Reply #35 on:** July 08, 2004, 10:19:32 pm »

Can you get some screenshots of various games to show what they look like with the mirror?

RetroJames · « **Reply #36 on:** July 08, 2004, 10:38:04 pm »

Quote from: MrArcade on July 08, 2004, 10:19:32 pm

Can you get some screenshots of various games to show what they look like with the mirror?

Yep!

Just as soon as I finish... $:-\$

Newborns rock!

RetroJames · « **Reply #37 on:** September 30, 2004, 02:36:28 pm »

Now that Moon Patrol is finished I can get back to MY CABINET!!!!

RetroJames · « **Reply #38 on:** December 18, 2004, 12:51:58 pm »

I am trying to wire up the led / lighted switches on the Omega Race. On
the side of the switch, it has the following info:

+ = 2V MAX
5 A125/250 VAC

Can someone help decipher this for me so I can figure out what voltage and
amps are needed to lite these up? Also, should I place a resistor in line
as well?

Thanks!

RayB · « **Reply #39 on:** December 18, 2004, 02:37:33 pm »

You sure it doesn't say "5A 125/250 VAC" (ie: 5 amps)
I THINK a 330 ohm resister is what you need. That's the conclusion I came to when I researched it, but i have not yet built the system, so I haven't see it working.


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