A Joust restoration.. this is going to take a while

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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J_K_M_A_N:
I have exactly one bookmark and this is it. I love this thread. It is looking awesome. Great job on the speaker.

J_K_M_A_N

bperkins01:

--- Quote from: Howard_Casto on September 14, 2020, 12:48:03 am ---Looks like it's made out of chocolate. Is it made out of chocolate? If so I'm gonna eat your cabinet.

--- End quote ---

hmmmmm... chocolate.. ahhgggg..
The pics seem to come out with a different shade every time. I hope its close to the real thing.. Should be.

--- Quote from: J_K_M_A_N on September 18, 2020, 02:51:40 pm ---I have exactly one bookmark and this is it. I love this thread. It is looking awesome. Great job on the speaker.

J_K_M_A_N

--- End quote ---

Thanks - I hope you are getting some good info from it. :)

bperkins01:

I long boarded the filler one last time with the faceplate in place. The result is a perfectly fair finish with no humps and no possibility of imprinting at the seam. The CPO material is pretty thick, I don't expect it to show the screws. If I'm even slightly worried they will imprint, they will get a quick skim of Bondo. But they were not filled originally.

This next step will take a little explanation. But essentially I need to drill a 5/8" hole, centered inside a 1 1/8" hole, which is delineated by a 1 3/16" hole - got that? I'm certain there are a dozen ways to do this - but I decided to make a tool to make it stupid simple, no measuring, no thinking, no tools needed other that a drill press. Because I have a lathe - this is simple.

Step 1 - I mounted a 1" dowel in the lathe and drilled a hole in its center using the tail stock and a drill bit (not shown)

Here is a small square of 1/2" thick acrylic. I have double stick tape on the back holding it to the dowel and a screw through the front to hold the block to the dowel. It needs to be held tight to turn the square into a circle.

Here is the drill centering tool turned down to 1 1/8". All those shavings are the square part that is now gone. Now it safe to remove the screw (in fact - its necessary) I have the double stick tape there to hold on this disk.

Here is a 5/8" Forstner bit mounted on the tailstock. The lathe spins the blank and the bit is stationary. I slowly crank it in to drill the hole - perfectly centered in the blank.

All to make this little acrylic donut. All in this took under 20 minutes - but why?

Here is the control panel - steel plate in place. The holes in the steel are exactly where the originals were. All I need to do is drill 1 1/8" holes with a centered 5/8" hole for the buttons - right? If you miss by a little on the small hole - the button won't go in.. or.. you can drill bigger (sloppy) center holes.. or measure and find a center point for each button hole, drill a chaser hole.. There are many ways.. But this way provides (for me) a fast, simple, no measure way to do it.

Clamp the CP to the drill press and drill all of the large holes centered in the metal cutouts 1/4" deep.

The metal hole is used for alignment and is just slightly larger than the drill bit. Repeat for all the holes.

After all the large holes are done - go back with the centering tool - use the small bit and drill all the way through the panel.

Perfect every time.

Buttons are getting a test fit. The new ones have a little flashing left over under the rim. They need to be trimmed with a razor blade to sit flush to the surface.

My harness was a disaster. More crappy black tape, Player 2 start is a micro switch and all around ratty wiring from the original panel hackery. The diagram was helpful - but it was more difficult that I thought to get a picture of a real CP inside of a Joust. I finally found a restoration video that had a clear view that I screen captured and printed as a reference.

Got all of the wire resorted. Had to add a few wires that are not color matched to the original (unfortunately). Waiting on a Player 2 - Start leaf switch that I didn't realize I needed. I also need to get some of the braided ground strap that goes all over Williams cabinets for the CP. There is supposed to be some in there.

The good news is it works great! The sticks have a little play in them - but its not unreasonable. My CPO from This Old Game will be here this week so I can finish the Control Panel. May need to wipe it down though.. I'm already getting my greasy hands all over it.

Arroyo:
Love the curves on that panel. You are restoring nearly every piece on this machine, and it’s very fun to watch :applaud:

Mike A:
I'm such a hack.

Nice work on this.

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