A Joust restoration.. this is going to take a while

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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Arroyo:
:applaud: looks fantastic.

J_K_M_A_N:
What a great Friday update! I really like what you are doing to this cab. It is looking awesome. I can't wait to see the final product. It will look like it is fresh off the assembly line, I'm sure (more likely, better).

J_K_M_A_N

bperkins01:

--- Quote from: J_K_M_A_N on September 11, 2020, 12:37:56 pm ---What a great Friday update! I really like what you are doing to this cab. It is looking awesome. I can't wait to see the final product. It will look like it is fresh off the assembly line, I'm sure (more likely, better).

J_K_M_A_N

--- End quote ---

--- Quote from: Arroyo on September 11, 2020, 10:04:33 am ---:applaud: looks fantastic.

--- End quote ---

Thanks guys - they are way easier to put together than take apart. I'm happy with it so far. :)

Howard_Casto:
Looks like it's made out of chocolate. Is it made out of chocolate? If so I'm gonna eat your cabinet.

bperkins01:

Under the marquee bracket - the original stain was black. They used cheap oil stain back in 1983. Updated it to better oil stain here in 2020. Its never seen anyway.

That oval speaker was all wrong. I got the current replacement for the original part. Added a new speaker wire since the original was hacked, put everything back the way it was and put on a Joust replacement speaker grill from a guy on KLOV who has been reproducing them. Nice metal grill will last a long time.

Speaker back in place.

I connected it all up - very faint sound. Tested the sound board and was getting confusing info from it. But it was certainly in the amplifier circuit since all the sounds worked, etc. Replaced the TDA2002 amp. Same thing. Pulled a cap that could have been the issue. Same thing. Looked and the schematic for connections - knew I had them right. Looked at my Defender cabinet... had them wrong.

Twice on this restore I've been bitten by the same mistake - If a connector is supposed to be keyed and its missing the key - ADD THE KEY TO IT! The speaker and potentiometer for volume are side by side with 4 pin Molex connectors. The volume control should have been keyed and it wasn't. So I looked right at them a number of times and had them backwards.

Oath: I hear-by promise to always add keys to Molex connectors under any circumstances so that they can never be transposed again..

Sound works great - all sounds present and accounted for.

Turns out my Joust is completely missing the service switches and the bracket. Whoever removed the original also removed the wiring on the coin door including the pins in the Molex connector, so no loose wires as a clue. My Defender has the exact switch / bracket. I looked around and realized there may be a market for these - they are not all that easy to come by. I have 30 brackets showing up in a week or two. Once I figure out how to get the sticker reproduced - I can get the actual replacement service switches and sell a few of these things. It's going to be a perfect match.

Which brings me back to the control panel. I set this aside a while back - but its the last part standing. First I cleaned up and flattened the area that's below the metal plate now that the swiss cheese has been removed. I also removed the last of the CPO adhesive that is incredibly difficult to get off. But its off.

Another test fit of the plate to make sure it sits flat.

I broke out my longboard from my boatbuilding days. Its just a long flat sanding block. Its useful in that you can't sand humps into your work. It cuts the high spots while leaving the low spots alone. You can't do that by hand or with a small sander over a large area. Its most important around the front curves since any high/low areas along that part will result in the CPO having puckers and hollows that may show.

There were a few spots I wasn't quite sure I liked - so I skimmed on a thin filler coat of thickened epoxy to run over with using the longboard one more time. After this is finished I can attach the sheet metal face, drill holes and wait for the CPO to show up. I may put all of the controls/hardware in place and test it since the CP harness is a mess and needs some repair. It will be easy to remove if needed.

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