| Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
| A Joust restoration.. this is going to take a while |
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| bperkins01:
--- Quote from: Mike A on September 23, 2020, 05:44:20 am ---I'm such a hack. Nice work on this. --- End quote --- --- Quote from: Arroyo on September 22, 2020, 10:51:43 pm ---Love the curves on that panel. You are restoring nearly every piece on this machine, and it’s very fun to watch :applaud: --- End quote --- Thanks guys :) I learn something new on every part I work on. |
| Laythe:
I love to see a dedicated Joust being treated right. I like your approaches to things and your execution. Seriously, I would let you fab parts for Shapeshifter. :cheers: (Not that it needs any that I need to farm out - just, as a statement of my approval.) |
| bperkins01:
--- Quote from: Laythe on September 28, 2020, 03:50:12 am ---I love to see a dedicated Joust being treated right. I like your approaches to things and your execution. Seriously, I would let you fab parts for Shapeshifter. :cheers: (Not that it needs any that I need to farm out - just, as a statement of my approval.) --- End quote --- Thanks Laythe - Watching your work - high praise :) Much appreciated.. and timely! Some metal work. If there is a way to get a tighter bend - let me know. Back to the service switch: Metal parts came in – perfect match in every way. Laser cutting is ridiculously clean and accurate. I picked up a bench vice finger brake to put the bends in the metal. For the price it works great. The original's corners are very tight - I'm certain they had production machinery to produce these. Mine are as tight as I can get them with the tools I have. The test that let me know these are identical – just stack the old and new. For something that is never seen inside the machine – no one will never know its not original. The Williams Service Switch restoration design team (Arroyo and MikeA) have been working with me for the replacement decal. Here is an original Defender decal and an early revision of the replacement. Once its done - I'll have replacement Williams coin door service switches available for sale for anyone doing restorations. They were not easy to find which is what started this sub-project in the first place. |
| bperkins01:
Been a while since my last update. Got sidetracked on some other stuff. These Williams service switch replacements are done. Exact replacement for the originals and indistinguishable from them. The last steps were getting the stickers reproduced and cut. I was also able to source the exact replacement switches. If you have a restoration and need this switch/bracket/sticker assemble. Let me know. $40 shipping included. |
| bperkins01:
I’ve been working on another restore for the past few weeks but got to a point where I could get back on my Joust. The CPO from This Old Game is absolute top quality. I’ve watched videos and have seen people struggle to put these on. You can make it easy on yourself if you try this way. First – clean the control panel with naptha or acetone. Something to get any residual oils off the surface. As seen above – line up the CPO to the exact spot along the top edge and backlight any button holes to make sure they are in the correct spot. Use some wide tape and hold it in place. Double and triple check to make sure you have it in the right spot because you are not likely to get a second chance. I then use spring clamps to make sure nothing shifts. You want to make sure that it wraps all the way around without wandering off course. It should be centered and square all the way around from top to bottom. With the tape and spring clamps in place, roll back the top edge and peel off the backing material. Cut off the top 1-2 inches of the backing. I use gloves for these ‘sticky’ steps for a couple of reasons. First – you will not leave fingerprints / skin oil on the adhesive backing! It will stick better. Second – you won’t be afraid to grab the CPO where you need to because the gloves won’t cause any issues. Use a plastic spreader and stick the CPO down working from the center to the edges. You want to make sure there are no bubbles and it lays flat. Try to keep the CPO sides off the control panel so that it is rolling down into position from center to edge. If you work from the center out you have the best chance of not having issues. Once the top part is done, roll the CPO back and peel down a comfortable amount of backing and cut it off (I do 4-6 inches). Pictured here is the CPO rolled back before sticking it to the lower section of the control panel. You want to slowly use the spreader and press from the center out and continue down the overlay making sure there are no wrinkles or bubbles. Using the heat gun to warm the CPO will assist in making it pliable for bending around the corner. Set the temp on the gun and test the temperature on your forearm. If its too hot – turn it down! You want hot hair drier temps – not melt your CPO temps.. At this point you can pull and press the CPO with your gloved hand. Center to edge, top to bottom. Follow up with the spreader to make sure it all gets pressed into place. Last section – peel it off and more of the same. You can pre-warm the CPO while it has the backing on if you find its helping. Once its on, backlighting each hole will help you to trim out the buttons. Use a brand new blade in the Exacto. Buttons and trim strip in place. Nice control panel overlay. Colors are fantastic. |
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