Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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vapuser:
Good morning, Good news, bad news. The good news is that Arcade Parts and Repair has confirmed that all their replacement caps in their cap kits are an accurate representation of what needs to be replaced. They stated that if there is a discrepancy in the cap values, chances are that they were previously, replaced with an incorrect value. That was good to hear. Now I can continue replacing the remainder of the caps. The bad news is that after checking the resistance across the windings of the flyback, they all showed a shorted condition. I first checked for a value between pins 1 and 3. The reading rapidly went from 1.0 to .9 then .8, .7, .6. Same across pins 4 and 5, 6 and 7, and also 6 and 10. When I changed the meter to indicate a tone for a short, all above readings toned out. Short, short, short, short. So maybe this can be construed as good news as this definitely confirms the reason for the 1-amp fuse to blow. I think now we can feel confident that the flyback definitely needs to be replaced. I’ll place that order today and give another update in a few days.
Jennifer, I can only wish that I had your level of expertise. I wouldn’t even know where to start with what you suggested. Perkins and I were on the same page with trying to determine what is actually causing that 1-amp fuse to blow. I think now it is quite evident that the Flyback was the culprit. Which is something that you instinctively knew from the beginning. My thoughts are, that I’m going to replace the rest of the caps and the flyback, hope that I have video, check my B+, correct the horizontal issue with a correct value combination of chicklets and take it from there. If this game works after all that I’ll have you guys to thank for it. I already appreciate all of your help and suggestions!

bperkins01:
That would be great news if it was internally shorted. I personally like knowing the cause. If I wanted something to work w/o knowing why.. I'd send it out to an expert.
Since you are putting in the effort to repair this yourself - you seem to want to know *why* and have put in a lot of troubleshooting.
Confirming a failed component is the best..
Hope it is it!
keep up the good work.

jennifer:
I dont mean to be confusing...Basically, That tube may not be your best bang for the money, It most likely has seen a hard life, If you look at it close does it have an image burned on the screen?, And most likely the phosphorus is faded to giving it a faded look, not a dark grey like a healthy tube, And if so, the color guns (inside the tube) should be cleaned, balanced, and short tested with a rejuvenator for optimal color , Here is a fun vid on the subject if you are curious ...Just saying 13" TVs are actually easy to find, as they were uncommon for arcade swaps and hacking them is not really all that hard.

vapuser:
Good morning all, Jen thanks for that great video. I had to idea that such a device existed. If I did this for a living or even a serious side job, I would definitely have that device in my shop. Yes, my monitor definitely has a burned in image on the screen and most likely suffers from all those above symptoms you mentioned. Once I have this game up and working again, I just might take this monitor to a repair shop and have it cleaned and balanced. I’m sure it needs it. If further attention is needed, or as an alternative, I’ll have to keep my eyes open for a color 13” TV monitor. Had no idea that they may still be around. Since I’m really enjoying this restoration project, I would definitely consider the challenge of swapping out my monitor. But, one step at a time. I ordered the flyback yesterday and hope to have it installed by this weekend. By then, the rest of the parts should also be restored. I can’t wait to see the results of those efforts. I’ll keep you all posted. :)

vapuser:
TGIF! Well, those parts came in faster than I had anticipated. The new flyback and all the caps from the cap kit have now been soldered in place. To be honest, I’m still not completely comfortable with some of the replacement caps from the kit. Like Jen said, it could be my OCD kicking in, or just some common sense. Some of the replacements were so far off it’s scary. I just hate to assume that there’re all correct. Does anyone know definitively what those exact replacements should be? Someone must have a printout of the original caps on that GO7-FBO board. If you take a look at Reply 263, the caps that I’m concerned with are the ones that do not have a green dot next to them. There’s Just the 7 of them. I’m really not even concerned with C520 either. Just: C303, C504, C517, C407, C403, C411 and C518. That pic from Reply 263 above shows my cap values that were originally on the board and the replacement values that I blindly soldered in. C303 is a good example of how far off that replacement was: from 10uf @ 250V to a replacement of 22uf @ 50V. A different micro farad value and a drop in voltage. I have a feeling that a cap replacement was done years ago and that person had a need to clean out their junk drawer of unused caps. C518 is another good example. 220uf @ 50V to 47uf @ 50V, Really! Should I be concerned? Any reply’s? Have a great weekend guys and stay safe!!

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