| Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
| Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power |
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| bperkins01:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Electrohome%20G07%2013in%20and%2019in%20Color%20Raster.pdf Isn't this the schematic? Can you walk through the parts list and compare to this? |
| vapuser:
perkins, I have that list as well. Actually, there was only one value on the list and that was C411. The value on that schematic shows 100uf @ 160V. Isn't that funny, that one doesn't even match the one in my cap kit. That's why I so concerned. Have you seen any other information out there showing the values of the caps? But I think for that one, being that the 250 volts is a higher voltage than the 160, I think that one would be ok. Thanks for looking for me! |
| bperkins01:
I don't know much of anything about that monitor.. I would think (hope) the schematic matched.. if it doesn't - then that's a bigger issue. I think you know - replacing a cap with equal capacitance is ok - high voltage rating is a bonus. Just don't use a lower rated cap. (which is on their instructions) After that.. :dunno Hopefully you can match things up... |
| vapuser:
Good morning all, after installing the Flyback the other day, I noticed a bracket of some sort on the coil. The bracket seems to have a solder type location on it where you could solder a wire to it. Please see pic below. There were no instructions that came with the flyback that referenced this bracket. Is anyone familiar with this? Is this a grounding bracket? Just guessing. After making another round through the circuitry, I noticed a few more problems. Two of the metal oxide resistors were out of spec. R904 is one of them. It’s rated as a 10K 2W 5% type resistor. It read 4.9 K. Also the R421 - 12K resistor was off as well. It read 8.73 K. Also noticed that my Large fuse (F902) was blown. Also doubled checked the H/Out and the voltage regulator transistors again and noticed that the H/Out was shorted. I think these additional casualties were caused when I plugged in the unit prior to installing the new flyback. I think once these parts are replaced I should be good. I’ll give another update at that time. |
| vapuser:
Good morning all, Well, some of my electrical components finally came in the other day. One of the parts that I ordered was a replacement for the cracked Ceramic capacitor that is soldered to the H/Out transistor as seen in the above picture. That original cap is probably the size of a dime. The replacement part that came in is probably the size of a pea. Does that sound right? The part is a 151J which is a 150 pf 1.5 KV AC 5% Tolerance Ceramic cap. The description of the new part is identical (Actually a 2KV) but so much smaller. Should I be concerned? Additionally, one of the 10K 2W resistors that showed a low “in circuit” reading was actually very close to the 10K value after I removed it and retested it. I should probably just leave the resistors alone. Is that typical? That a resistor “In circuit” value will show a different reading after being removed from the circuit? Just a quick update on that above new flyback issue. What appears to be a soldering point tag was just a piece of plastic. Actually the entire flyback is like coated with a very thin layer of plastic. I’m not sure why. If all goes well, I’ll solder on that new Ceramic capacitor tonight and replace those bad fuses. :) |
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