Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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bperkins01:
That flyback looks good to me..
Not cracked or melted.. w/o knowing the expected values - you should be able to test for shorted windings using the schematic..

Bad caps are not known to cause fuses to blow.. they create crappy pictures when they are bad.
There are a bunch of threads on that monitor about cap sizes, etc.. but all related to crappy pictures, colors.

jennifer:

--- Quote from: bperkins01 on March 30, 2020, 08:59:03 am ---That flyback looks good to me..
Not cracked or melted.. w/o knowing the expected values - you should be able to test for shorted windings using the schematic..

Bad caps are not known to cause fuses to blow.. they create crappy pictures when they are bad.
There are a bunch of threads on that monitor about cap sizes, etc.. but all related to crappy pictures, colors.

--- End quote ---
I am actually a bit confused as to why you would be giving this guy false hope...Supose a 30.00 flyback is life changing money or something, But even if that one is not the problem by some miracle and it still works...Most likely within 6 months those new caps are going to blow it out anyway.

bperkins01:

--- Quote from: jennifer on March 30, 2020, 02:59:02 pm ---
--- Quote from: bperkins01 on March 30, 2020, 08:59:03 am ---That flyback looks good to me..
Not cracked or melted.. w/o knowing the expected values - you should be able to test for shorted windings using the schematic..

Bad caps are not known to cause fuses to blow.. they create crappy pictures when they are bad.
There are a bunch of threads on that monitor about cap sizes, etc.. but all related to crappy pictures, colors.

--- End quote ---
I am actually a bit confused as to why you would be giving this guy false hope...Supose a 30.00 flyback is life changing money or something, But even if that one is not the problem by some miracle and it still works...Most likely within 6 months those new caps are going to blow it out anyway.

--- End quote ---

Not my intention - he was having difficulty finding the correct one, requiring him to not use an exact replacement, That required another layer of modifications to make the wrong one work.
My opinion is to find the cause of the issue and fix that first. Not replace everything and hope I got it.. Replacing caps is a great idea. Injecting more change into the equation (caps) before knowing why its blowing fuses in the first place complicates the matter IMHO.

Tougher than that is trying to help repair a CRT over the internet.. A forum is to solicit opinions - he doesn't have to listen to me - but it helps to have a few to think about. that's all. I've politely not listened to many opinions over the years. Still learned from them.

jennifer:
Oh, Well in a strange way that does make sense...That chassis looks tired, and could be a good candidate for replacing, but in the interest of fixing it, I would personally change pretty much everything, But at the very least, caps and flyback (The hard part is already done since it is already out.)😉

jennifer:
Vapuser...You do have options, depending on your level of OCD.. That tube could also be issue, If that were on my bench That would have been my first test, and a clean and balance, if it is burnt, or faded you are going to end up with that when this is over, If the tube is shorted, (very rare) it will fry your fresh new chassis in the blink of an eye...13" TVs are quite common, and offer an alternative, either hack RGB to the receiver, or use output jacks...Or use an universial chassis (by counting pins on donor tube, and measuring deflection resistance...Either way there is no shame in either, makes for good color, and a fun game to play at the end of the day.

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